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CITY GUIDE

"The rise or fall of Shanghai means the birth or death of the whole nation"

                                                                                                     - Chiang Kai-shek 

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BIRTH DATE - 

  • 1291 a large part of the city didn't exist as the land was yet to be reclaimed

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POPULATION - 

  • 27,058,000

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AKA - 

  • Shen, Hu Tu, Hudu, Shencheng, Little Hangzhou, Paris of the East, Whore of the Orient, the New York of China

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MEANING - 

  • Upon the Sea

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  • Tricking or forcing civilians aboard ships as forced labour in the 19th century, often these ships were headed for Shanghai.

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RIVER - 

  • Yangtze River Delta, Huangpu River, Suzhou Creek 

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HISTORY - 

  • Shanghai has an interesting history and a lot of it centres around opium.

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  • The British love of tea meant a trade imbalance with China that was evened out by getting them all hooked on smoking opium. A lot of respected business empires that are still around today had their foundations in the opium trade.

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  • It also saw two wars fought over it and changed Shanghai's destiny forever. After the First Opium War in 1842 Shanghai was one of the ports opened up to foreigners with protections for them and their property. They opened embassies and enjoyed fair trade tariffs.

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  • The US and France quickly followed. The population and foreign trade grew and Shanghai grew wealthy and corrupt.

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  • In the mid 19th century the leader of the Taipings, Hong Xiuquan who claimed to be Jesus's brother led a rebellion against the Manchu rulers. It became all out war and raged for over a decade.

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  • It was the bloodiest civil war of all time and an estimated 20 - 30 million people died. The battle of Shanghai was a major engagement in the revolution. The British and French troops used modern artillery on the Taiping forces who had attacked and occupied the city. Eventually the combined forces of Beijing, Britain and France defeated the rebel army.

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  • Rebellions continued around the countryside forcing a wave of refugees to head for the safety of Shanghai.

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  • Eventually everything fell to pieces and saw the demise of China's last ruling dynasty which had lasted 250 years.

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  • Early in the 1900's Shanghai's population was a million people. The wealthy foreigners had set up their own areas and had their own laws. As the Nationalists took power and the Japanese invaded Manchuria, Shanghai became a sort of haven for the rich and powerful and the down and out.

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  • There was a big influx of White Russians fleeing from the Russian Revolution who were just as poor as the peasants and had to take menial jobs and work as prostitutes. There was a lot of crime and vice in the city. People would often wake up to the sight of dead bodies on the side of the road. It was said that everyone who came to Shanghai had something to hide.

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  • The Japanese had gained treaty rights and were the second largest group after the Chinese. There were Jewish refugees fleeing the Nazis who ended up in Japanese camps. It was truly a multicultural city, very exotic and rotten to the core.

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  • After the Japanese invasion Chiang Kai Shek decided to take a stand at Shanghai which cost many lives. His forces also bombed The Bund and Nanking Road. The foreigners fled the city leaving the Chinese population to face their fate.

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  • The Golden days of Shanghai were over and it became a dark and dangerous city. After the defeat of the Japanese in WW2 the Allies signed over their concessions to Chiang and that was the end of 100 years of foreign influence in Shanghai.

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  • Next came hyper-inflation and the the Communist take over of Mao and his cronies. The opium addicts were cured, the brothels were closed and the prostitutes found a new line of work.

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  • During the Cultural Revolution a million Red Guards went on a rampage through the city attacking and denouncing anyone they thought may have some contact with foreigners.

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  • In 1972 Richard Nixon visited the city which marked the beginning of the normalization of their relationship with the US and began the opening up of China to the west.

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  • Since then Shanghai's development has been spectacular. When I was there on National Day in 1985 the buildings were decorated with light bulbs outlining their shapes. Now there are skyscrapers with huge videos on their walls.

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BEST TIME TO GO - 

  • October and November is best.

  • April and May is also nice with higher prices.

  • June to September is peak season and is hot, humid and rainy.

  • December to March is winter and it gets down below 10 degrees Celsius but there isn't a lot of rain.

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ACCOMMODATION -

 

 

TOP 10 - 

  1. The Bund

  2. The Maglev (world's fastest train)

  3. Shanghai Circus World

  4. The Peace Hotel

  5. Disneyland

  6. Nanjing Road Pedestrian Street

  7. Former French Concession

  8. Shanghai World Financial                                                                                                       Center Observation Deck

  9. The Oriental Pearl                                                                                                                               Observation Deck at Night

  10. Yuyuan Garden

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FUN FACT - 

  • During the Cultural Revolution there was a plan to make the (Communist) Red traffic lights mean go.

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AIRPORT TRANSFER - Shanghai Pudong Airport (PVG) 30 km / Hongqiao Airport (SHA) 13 km

  • Pudong you can take the Maglev which takes 7 min, Airport Shuttle Bus, Metro or taxi. 

  • SHA mainly handles domestic flights. Same options as Pudong but no Maglev.

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SAFETY - 

  • Guard against pick pockets, dodgy taxi drivers, watch out for scammers, safe city with usual scammers.

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FOOD - 

  • Shanghai specialties to try are Xiao Long Bao or Soup Dumplings - famous around the world,

  • Hairy Crab (you haven't truly eaten in Shanghai until you've tried this), 

  • Beggar's Chicken, Braised Pork, Shansi Leng Mian (Eel Noodles), Cong You Bing (Scallion Pancakes), 

  • You Dunzi (Radish Fritters), Shengjianbao is the other famous dumpling of Shanghai, Di Shui Dong ribs, Braised eggplant, 

  • Grilled oysters, Drunken chicken, Shanghai-style fried noodles

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NIGHTLIFE - 

  • The world's biggest city and the world's fastest growing city has no shortage of night time options. There are plenty of ex-pats and locals who like a good time.

  • Even before China opened up to the west Shanghai was a cosmopolitan place where people would rather wear brightly coloured shirts than the drab green and blue Mao suits.

  • There are plenty of rooftop bars to take in the amazing skyline.

  • It can be expensive so you may need to pick your bars wisely.

  • The Bund is very popular but also expensive due to it's view of Pudong across the Huangpu river.

  • The Former French Concession is a big Clubbing area.

  • There is plenty of live music and jazz available.

  • Often there are good deals for the ladies with cheap drinks etc.

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SIDE TRIP - 

  • Suzhou and Nanjing

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COSTS - 

  • Shanghai is probably the most expensive place in China but you can still get good value for your dollar. It's still China after all.

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VISA -

FLIGHTS -

INSURANCE -

TIPS -

SCAMS -

GETTING AROUND - 

  • The Metro is good to avoid traffic but it gets very crowded during rush hour. All information is in English as well as Chinese.

  • There is a bike sharing system and it is a good city to walk around.

  • Taxis and ride shares are plentiful and a good option when it's rush hour on the Metro.

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MUST DO - 

  • Ride the Maglev

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SHOPPING - 

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Impressive skyline along the river

Image by Herbert Bieser from Pixabay 

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           MEET SHANGHAI 15N              

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HIGHLIGHTS - hairy crabs & soupy dumplings​

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  Shanghai 6N - Suzhou 2N - Cruise 1N - Hangzhou 2N - Shaoxing 2N - Xitang 2N = 15N

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  • Shanghai is a fascinating city composed of many parts and you won't find another one in China quite like it. The change that occurred here in less than 20 years was just astounding. I remember seeing billboards displaying a space age metropolis with skyscrapers and big freeways on them. I sniggered to myself "sure, that'll never happen". For all of the modernity you will still find history around every corner.

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  • Spend the first week taking in all this rather large city has to offer. Then take off for a week on a fascinating journey to 4 of it's neighbouring towns, Suzhou (The Venice of the East) - Hangzhou (Heaven on Earth) - Shaoxing (The museum without walls) and Xitang (A living ancient water town). They are all have a water theme and you will cruise from Suzhou to Hangzhou along the world's longest man made waterway, the Grand Canal. It is 1794 km long and goes from Beijing to Hangzhou. This is a particularly scenic section of it.

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  • Spend each day in Shanghai discovering a different area of the city. Being virtually flat it is a good place to see walking and by bicycle. There will be more than a few boat trips included. The Shanghai Metro makes it easy to get around as well. An evening cruise on the Huangpu River can be quite illuminating.  It is a good idea to get a VPN before you go to China. The food in Shanghai is delicious and there is a huge range of choices. They have a few must try specialties such as Hairy Crab and Soup Dumplings. Dim Sum is a real treat and there are a heap of Weekend Brunch Buffets. Whole streets full of Street Food, Tea Houses, Food Courts, Fine Dining and restaurants with stunning views.

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  • Shoppers won't be left out, they could spend the week just at Nanjing Road checking out the 5 km of over 600 shops including massive modern multilevel malls and a large pedestrian area. There are markets of all shapes and sizes and wares. Shanghai Old Town is another destination with something for everyone. In a city this size you know there is going to be plenty of nightlife. There are even a few cheaper options in some of the flashier areas. Another fun night time activity is a visit to the Shanghai Circus. Of course a stroll along the bund and a cocktail at the Peace Hotel should also be on the list.

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  • A famous old Chinese saying goes "Above there is Heaven; below there are Suzhou and Hangzhou". This is good news for you as these are your next two destinations. Hop on the High Speed train and you'll be getting off in Suzhou in about 25 minutes. There are 210 trains a day so you might have to wait a minute or two. This town is renowned for its gardens and the Ancient Grand Canal Tours. You should find all of this beautiful scenery very relaxing. It is also known as the "hometown of silk" so you can see how silk products are produced and possibly buy some.

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  • Hangzhou along with Shanghai and Suzhou are the three points of the famous Scenic Triangle. Poets and Emperors have been extolling it's beauty for centuries. It is the far terminus of the UNESCO listed Grand Canal which originates in Beijing. It took millions of labourers 6 years to build and was the world's biggest civil engineering project until the Industrial Revolution. Hangzhou is famous for the scenic West Lake which is one of the most well known natural attractions in all of China. It has been a popular holiday spot  for a long time. It's a great place to wander about, get a bicycle or paddle you own boat and watch the sunset. The food and nightlife scenes make it a worthwhile visit too. Your 14 hour overnight luxury cruise will take you there along the visually stimulating Grand Canal.

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  • If you've done a bit of Asian cooking you probably know what Shaoxing Wine is. Well now you're about to learn a bit more about it at the China Shaoxing Wine Museum. It's also the ancestral home (which you can visit) of Zhou Enlai, Mao's (Principled) right hand man. You've seen the West Lake and here you'll see the East Lake. This one is a bit different as it is a lake garden created out of an abandoned quarry. There is an Ancient Town (with cafes and tea shops), Kuaiji Mountain to climb up, the famous 900 year old Bazi Bridge, an Orchid Pavilion and the local speciality, Custard Tarts.

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  • Last stop on this mini tour is the spectacular little water village Xitang. The closing scenes of Mission Impossible 3 were shot here. Best avoided on weekends, get a room in the scenic area on the water. There are 11 official tourist spots here including museums, gardens and famous houses. Boat trips are good, especially at sunset. At night time it is very pretty and lit up with lanterns. It would be hard to think of a more scenic spot to sit down and watch the passing parade. Lots of street food and restaurants. They have a bar street. Yes with lots of bars and clubs. The atmosphere cant be beat and it's a magic little spot to wind up your trip.

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  • If however you wish to continue your travels have a look at China and Japan in the Countries section

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Image by Ferdinand Feng from Pixabay 

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