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Your holiday - Your way
COUNTRY GUIDE
Ancient City - Bangkok
BEST TIME TO GO - Is October to April between the rains easing and starting up again.
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Peak season is December to February.
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Down south the weather varies from the east and west coasts.
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The east coast is good for most of the year and its wettest month is November.
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November to March is the dry season for the west coast. Some of the resorts on the islands close down during the wettest months.
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February and March are the burning season up north and best avoided.
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The ferry from Ko Phi Phi Don to Ko Lipe runs October 15th to May 10th. The island is open all year and you can still travel overland but the weather isn't great.
STAY -
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Most hotels are available on Booking.com unless otherwise stated. It's best to get bookings with free cancellation and pay on site when you get there. Hotels chosen are usually 3*** or 4 or 5 if they are good value. They are chosen firstly for their location, value for money, positive testimonials regarding cleanliness and service and features like rooftop terraces and great views.
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Since the end of Covid a lot of prices have gone through the roof. So if the selected hotel is out of your price range click on the location map and choose something cheaper nearby. Or you might prefer something else but try to stay in the same area.
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Thailand has a wide range of accommodation in all price categories.
VISAS - Click here for information
FLIGHTS -
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Bangkok Suvarnabhumi International Airport (BKK) - has direct flights to 119 cities in 46 countries.
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Don Mueang International Airport (DMK) - handles the cheap airlines and has direct connections around Asia
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Chiang Mai International Airport (CNX) - has direct flights to Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Hong Kong, Taipei and Seoul
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Hat Yai International Airport (HDY) - has direct flights to Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore
AIRPORT TRANSFER - Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK) 34km / Don Muang (DMK) 25km
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Official Taxis and Minivans,
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Sky Train Airport shuttle, Free shuttle between airports,
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Public buses,
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Airport Limo
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Once you've bought your tickets get some travel insurance to cover yourself.
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BUDGET -
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It's not as cheap as it used to be but part of that is because now you have more options on what to spend your money on. You can still eat well on the street for a few dollars and get a cheap room but it's much more fun to relax the purse strings. For AUD$100 / US $67 a day as one in a couple or pair you can live quite well and do pretty much as you please. If you don't drink you could probably halve those numbers. One thing is for sure that you will get good value for your dollar.
POPULATION - 70 million
CAPITAL - Bangkok (Village in the Plum Grove)
RELIGION - None official, Theravada Buddhism 95% with a strong undercurrent of Hinduism. Technically Buddhism isn't a religion because the Buddha was a man.
ETHNICITY - Thai 91.5%, Khmer 2.3%, Malay 2.1%, Bamar , 1.5% + 70 ethnic groups
LANGUAGE - Thai
TIPS -
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It's called the Land of Smiles but what they don't tell you is that there are 13 types of smiles and they aren't all good ones :-)
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Learn a few words of Thai and it will make all the difference.
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Thailand is very laid back and a lot of fun. However it does pay to learn the important do's and don'ts and stick to them.
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If you don't want to hire scooters or motorbikes you can get a car, or a motorbike with driver, or a car with driver, charter a tuk tuk, charter a songthaew, take public transport or hire a bicycle if it's not too far.
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Don't forget your International Drivers License
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For the moment all of these trips start off with the same 3 days in Bangkok. If you want to do something different have a look at Bangkok in "Cities".
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Taxis in Bangkok are cheaper than tuk tuks. They are more comfortable, air conditioned, safer and less hassles than tuk tuks, but nowhere near as much fun. You haven't been to Bangkok until you've been in a tuk tuk race through light traffic in the early hours of the morning.
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The number for the Tourist Police is 1155 nationwide. They speak English. You can also download their app on your apple or android phone.
NATIONAL DRINK - Lao Khao, rice whiskey
NATIONAL DISH - Tom Yum Goong (spicy prawn soup) / Som Tam (spicy green papaya salad)
GOVERNMENT - Constitutional Monarchy / Military Junta
BIRTHDAY - 1238 AD
BIG MAC IN $US - $3.84
LITERACY - 96%
LIFE EXPECTANCY - 77
TOURISTS PER YEAR - 40 million
CURRENCY - Thai Baht THB $1 = 33 THB
NO.1 TOURIST SITE - The Grand Palace
MINIMUM WAGE ANNUAL IN $US - $2321
CHEERS - Chon GOW!! (Crash Glass), Chok Dee (Good Luck)
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LANNA THAI - THE NORTH 26N
HIGHLIGHTS - Siam and Lan Na Kingdoms
Bangkok 3N
Ayutthaya 2N
Phitsanoluk 2N
Chiang Mai 3N
Tha Ton - 2N
Chiang Rai 2 + 1N
Sop Ruak 2N
Phayao 2N
Mae Kampong 2N
Chiang Mai 1N = 26N
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Emerald Buddha
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Reclining Buddha
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Golden Buddha
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Royal Palace
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White Temple
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Black House
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Blue Temple
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Hall of Opium
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House of Opium
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World's Best Street Food
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Green Lungs of Bangkok
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The Golden Triangle
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Handicraft Highway
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Bangkok Tuk Tuk Ride
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Thailand's Oldest Town
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Phitsanulok Night Bazaar
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Chiang Mai Night Bazaar
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Chiang Rai Night Bazaar
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Chao Phraya River Cruise
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UNESCO Listed Ayutthaya
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UNESCO Listed Sukhothai
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UNESCO Listed Kamphaeng Phet
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Cycle Ayutthaya's Temples
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Poo Restaurant - Try the Crap
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The World's most expensive coffee
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Thai Massage by women prisoners
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Thailand's Northernmost point and Myanmar visit
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Tham Luang - Khun Nam Nang Non - a very famous cave
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Former Flying through the air Fried Morning Glory Vine World Capital
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Four homes of the Emerald Buddha - Bangkok, Kamphaeng Phet, Chiang Mai & Chiang Rai
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Four Capitals of Lan Na - Chiang Rai, Fang, Wiang Kum Kam & Chiang Mai
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Five Capitals of Siam - Sukhothai, Ayutthaya, Phitsanulok, Thonburi, Bangkok (Krung Thep)
1 Bangkok - 3N
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It will be best to start this trip on a Saturday, Sunday or Monday to avoid the weekend crowds at Mae Kampong later in the trip. There is very limited parking and you will have a car.
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Fly into Suvarnabhumi International Airport then take an official airport taxi to your hotel in the Banglamphu area near Khao San Road. I recommend you download the maps.me app to your phone and download Bangkok and all of the Thailand maps you will need to use to navigate while you are moving around. Also it pays to carry a photocopy of your passport around with you.
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Stay at or near the New Siam Riverside - anywhere in the Banglamphu area will be fine preferably towards the Phra Arthit river stop.
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Spend the rest of the afternoon / evening looking around the neighbourhood. You will find everything your heart could desire and quite a few things you didn't even know existed.
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Find a table in the street, order a beer or a bottle of Sang Som (Thai rum), coke, soda and ice bucket then just sit there and watch the world go by. Many countries are represented. If you're a Thai Boxing fan you could go to the nearby Rajadamnern Stadium which has bouts starting around 6.30 PM. It's only 2 km away so you could walk or take a tuk tuk.
2
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Off for a walking tour today to cross the major bucket list items off of your list.
Opium Poppies
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No rush to get up, you need to be at Sky Bar for 6pm opening and Sunset. Unless you're having traditional afternoon tea at the Oriental. (see below)
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Head off at 10am and you should have plenty of time. The restaurant Krua Apsorn doesn't open until 10.30. Save your appetite for it.
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You will need long pants and shoes (men) to get in to Sky Bar ladies get away with being more casual but no flip flops. Zip off pants are a great idea.
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They will be handy for the Grand Palace too, although normally you can rent a sarong or happy pants.
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Watch out for pickpockets around the Grand Palace and Wat Pho.
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Make your way to the the 14 October 1973 Memorial - 500,000 people gathered here to protest the Three Tyrants
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Then down to the Democracy Monument - where it all began in 1932 and it has become a place for protesters to assemble
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Brunch at Krua Apsorn (Apsorn's Kitchen) a famous place to eat that uses recipes that were used in the palace to feed Royalty - (Stir fried crab in curry powder is highly recommended)
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The Giant Swing (Sao Ching Cha) - hard to miss this one at 21 meters tall, at one time Louis Leonowens the son of Anna (as in the King and I) donated the teak for the swing)
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Next door is Wat (temple) Suthat Thepwararam Ratchaworahawihan - is one of the oldest and most important temples - King Rama 8 is buried here
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Nuttaporn Ice cream - time for a cool break, they have local flavours and have been making ice cream pretty much since Bangkok has had it and use the finest mangoes money can buy
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Phraeng Phuton Square - next to Nuttaporn and has some classic old shops that are worth a look
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Bangkok City Pillar Shrine - this was the first building to be put up on this side of the river.
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The Grand Palace (Phra Borom Maharatchawang) and the the Emerald Buddha (Phra Kaeo Morakot) - which has had an interesting life with lots of travel. Read more about it below in Ayutthaya.
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Catch the ferry across the river at Tha Tian Pier (turn right at Soi Thai Wang and make your way through to the river) to have a look at Wat Arun - the centre of the universe
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Wat Pho - the home of the Reclining Buddha and Thai massage
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Museum Siam - an interactive and fun lesson in Thai history and Thai culture
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It must be time for a drink - make your way to the river and the Yodpiman ferry wharf and take an orange flagged ferry to the Oriental Pier (Don't worry the ticket lady will tell you which ferry to get on - just watch how the locals do it and follow suit - it's an adventure in itself plus you will have a pleasant cruise down the river as well
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Get off at the Oriental Hotel (Bangkok's first hotel and the best in the world for many years in a row) and have a look / drink. Or if you make time you could come here for traditional afternoon tea in the Authors Lounge. (12pm - 6pm) From here make your way to the Sky Bar at the Lebua State Tower - if you're a bit early there's plenty to see in this neighbourhood. The bar opens at 6 pm and it's good to be on time to see it in the light and the dark and the sun sets quickly in the tropics.
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Check the menu prices before you order. Some drinks aren't overly expensive but others certainly are. You only need to stay for one and you'll still have plenty of time to take in the incredible views from up here.
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If you want to continue drinking at much cheaper prices and still with a great view head down to Jack & X's Bar on the riverside. They do food here too.
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Now it's time for dinner and there are many choices. Charoen Krung Rd outside the front of the building has some famous places to eat - or you could take the complimentary ferry (get on just south of the main Sathon Pier) down to ASIATIQUE the Riverfront where you have eating, drinking and shopping in a recreated 1900's style - or you could catch the Sky Train (from Saphan Taksin station) down to Sukhumvit Rd for a night out (there is something for everyone). Or you could do the lot. Drinks at Jack's, dinner on Charoen Krung, a few hours at Asiatique then finish up at Sukhumvit.
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Catching a tuk tuk home and racing through the empty streets is one of the great joys of Bangkok. Don't forget to barter and hang on.
3
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Have another sleep in if you need it. You have another big day ahead. Time for some exercise to blow the cobwebs out. Or you could opt for a motorcycle taxi. You're off to Bang Krachao - the"Green Lungs of Bangkok" (a riverine island that will make you forget you are in the big city). It is the perfect place to cycle around and it has a number of attractions along the way. One of the highlights is riding along the elevated pathways through the mangrove forest and Green Road and Flower Street. Download the maps on Maps.me if you are taking your phone.
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If you go during the week you'll have it to yourself and most places will be open except the two following. If you go on the weekend you'll have lots of company and everything will be open including the Siamese Fighting Fish Gallery and the Floating Market. Don't forget to take a hat and a copy of your passport.
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First of all you'll need to eat. You've probably noticed by now that eating is a national past time around here and you are never more than 10 meters away from food at any time. Just down the road is a place that's been there for over 80 years and it's called Karim Roti Mataba. The food is very good and very cheap. Stop in for a bite on your way to the Phra Athit ferry pier. Catch the ferry down to the main Sathon pier by the Thaksin bridge.
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From here take a taxi to the Klong Toey pier. Taxis are generally cheaper, safer, cooler and less hassle than tuk tuks. But nowhere near as much fun! Catch the boat across to Bang Krachao pier where you will see the bicycle rental shop. You'll need you passport copy and they will give you a map and a bottle of water. The bikes are reasonable and very cheap. The map isn't that good, either is google maps, so it's a good thing you downloaded maps.me.
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I would go in an anticlockwise direction. The two dots after the floating market towards the river are close to where you'll find the Green Road and Flower Street. The Bangkok Tree House is a good place to stop for a beer on the roof.
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Green Road - Bang Krachang
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Once you're back across the river find yourself a taxi and go to the Klong Toei Metro Station. You want to head west and get off at the Hua Lamphong MRT station.
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From here walk to Wat Traimit to see the world's largest solid gold Buddha that was discovered by accident
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Enter Chinatown through the China Gate. Chinatown originally was where you were walking around yesterday but was moved here to make way for the Grand Palace. The main road here Yaowarat Rd was the first road in Thailand. The snaking road is said to represent a dragon and the China Gate is its head. It has had a colourful history. Chinatown is actually called Yaowarat. All of your senses will be challenged in this vibrant and colourful area.
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Stroll around - sit down - eat and drink. Seafood here is legendary and one of the most famous spots is the corner where the Lek & Rut (Red team) and T & K (Green team) Seafood Restaurants compete for customers.
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Catch a taxi or tuk tuk home when you've had enough
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4 - 5 Ayutthaya - 2N
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It would be nice to be able to say take a relaxing boat cruise along the River of Kings to the previous capital of Ayutthaya but unfortunately they don't really exist. Hopefully this will change one day soon. Beware of pretend trips that only go to the edge of Bangkok and do the rest of the trip in a van. A train trip is the next best option and there are plenty running each day. It's only an hour or two depending on which train you catch. Sadly by the time you read this the old iconic old Hua Lamphong Station will be closed and you will have to make your way to the new Bang Sue Grand Station. Just grab a tuk tuk to your hotel when you arrive in Ayutthaya.
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Stay at or near Tony's Place Bed & Breakfast **** - Tony's has a pool, garden and a great area to sit around having a few drinks. I highly recommend the Kiwi Soda (in the Italian Sodas section)., try to get something here or anywhere near, as it is on Naresaun Soi 2 (known as Soi Farang or foreigner street). Which means it has bars and night life around it. The other option for night life is on the other side of town at Grand Street which is a sort of a red light area where you may feel less comfortable.
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A good way to see the temples is by bicycle. Grab a map from the tourist office, pick the ones you want to see and off you go. Otherwise you could hire a motorbike, charter a tuk tuk or go on a tour. If you have a normal appetite for temples the Buddha's head in the tree, the reclining Buddha and a couple of other main ones should be plenty. You'll still be seeing them as you move around town.
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The Emerald Buddha that you saw at the Grand Palace in Bangkok has quite a history. Originally thought to have been carved in 50 BC it has been on the move ever since. Coveted by many nations it is thought to bring great prosperity to the nation who claims ownership. It protects the nation and gives legitimacy to the rulers. The early years of it's travels are a bit hazy but from the 15th century it's movements, locations and how long it stayed are known.
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It seems it was in Angkor Wat before being taken to the Siamese capital of Ayutthaya but it is not known where it was kept and probably wouldn't exist anymore after the sacking. From here it went to Kamphaeng Phet for a time and was kept at Wat Phra Kaew which is the usual name for a temple that houses the Emerald Buddha. From here it went to Lopburi and ended up in Chiang Rai. In Chiang Rai it was discovered behind stucco in a Chedi after a lightening strike. From here it was going to live in Chiang Mai and was being taken by elephant convoy. When they got to the crossroads leading to Lampang the elephant became excited and ran off that way. They tried another elephant and it too did the same thing. The ruler of Chiang Mai not wanting to upset the spirits let it go to Lampang where it stayed for 32 years before making it to Chiang Mai.
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From here it went to Luang Prabang in Laos and then Vientiane before being taken back to Thonburi and then across to the new Capital where it now resides. It is a fascinating story and there is a lot more to it of course. There is a book out called Chasing the Emerald Buddha - An Alternative Journey Through Thailand, Laos & Angkor if you're interested.
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The Emerald Buddha has three costumes for each of the three seasons. Summer, rainy and winter. The King of Thailand performs the ceremonial changes three time per year. He is the only one who is allowed to touch the Emerald Buddha. It is only 26 inches high.
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Head out to the night market for dinner then check out the Coffee Shop on the way back. It is like a big beer garden with live music and it is located on Naresuan Rd 10 minutes walking west from Soi Farang. Finish the night off with the bars around Soi Farang. Maybe a night tour of the temples. The good thing about the temples here are that they are scattered around the town where every one lives. And they are illuminated. This was the capital before Bangkok but the Burmese came across and sacked the place. If you're familiar with the big golden Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon, now you know where the gold came from. Ayutthaya was a very cosmopolitan city at the time and put drabby old London town to shame.
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Cultural Show - Ayutthaya Floating Market
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A visit to the Floating Market is a fun way to spend a few hours. Make sure you catch the cultural show it's hilarious. In a Thai sort of way. Maybe do a cooking course, a river cruise around the island or there's a very nice golf course nearby. Or perhaps the Royal Palace at Bang Pa-In which you can explore on golf buggies. Have a bit more of a look at the town and find yourself a nice riverside restaurant for sun downers and dinner. Or you could try the Balloon Ayutthaya Night Plaza for dinner and drinks then the New Cowboy Bar for some live music and finish up at The Boss for some clubbing.
6 - 7 Phitsanoluk - 2N
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After breakfast make your way to the train station because today you're going to the Former Flying Through The Air Fried Morning Glory Vine Capital of the World, otherwise known as Phitsanulok or Phi-lok for short. I say former because I can't find any information on it. Sadly it might have gone the same way as the now defunct Flying Chicken Restaurant in Bangkok. Flaming roast chickens were catapulted into the air and caught on a spike on a waiters head who was riding a unicycle. He would pedal over to your table and deliver your meal. Hopefully you can still find a version of the flying vegetables in the Night Bazaar somewhere. They used to bus tourists in and they would line up for their chance to climb up to the landing zone and more often than not catch it on their face or shirt. Hilarious stuff that would entertain you for hours. It is known as "Phak Bung Loy Fah" if you're asking around. The 318 km train trip takes under 4 hours
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Stay at or near Little Jasmine by the River - great location on the river, by the bridge and next to Walking Street, it has a Cafe, superb buffet breakfast included, every room has a patio and some have river views, bar, close to floating house restaurants
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Phitsanulok doesn't see a lot of independent travellers so it remains an authentic Thai destination. Spend your time wandering around and getting to know the town and it's history. There is a tramway service around the city to see the sights. Some of them include Chan Palace - the stunning gold roof at Wat Chan Tawan Chok - Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat or Wat Yai for short contains what is considered the most beautiful Buddha image in Thailand and second to the Emerald Buddha - and you can go white water rafting.
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You'll be happy to hear there are plenty of good eating places around and many have great views of the Nan River. For good cheap eats and variety head to the Night Market and Night Bazaar later on. On Saturday nights they have a Walking Street market from 5 - 10pm in the street next to the hotel. A lot of the action happens along the river. The are a lot of bars, live music scattered around different parts of town.
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Image by ยุทธกร รังศรี from Pixabay
8 - 9 Old Sukhothai - 2N
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Hop on the bus to another UNESCO World Heritage Site, Sukhothai the capital before Ayutthaya and the first capital of Siam. Where as in Ayutthaya the old city was mixed with the new city here old and new are separate and the Sukhothai Historical Park is nothing short of spectacular. If you get the chance to be here for the Loy Krathong festival in November you're in for a rare privilege.
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King Ramkhamhaeng one of Thailand's most famous Kings ruled here between 1278 and 1298. He invented the Thai alphabet which is pretty much the same that is used today. The other thing he is remembered for is that he had a bell provided on one of the city gates and anyone with a grievance could ring it and the King would listen to their problem and provide a just solution. There is a monument and a museum within the park.
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The bus from Phitsanulok to New Sukhothai takes an hour and a half. When you arrive at the bus station north of the new town you'll need to catch a tuk tuk to the old town. It is about 10 km to the resort and there should be signs with the tuk tuk prices on them. This will add another half hour to the trip by the time you get there.
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Stay at or near Legendha Sukhothai Hotel **** - excellent location on the main road one kilometer from the UNESCO Sukhothai Historical Park, classic Thai design resort, landscaped areas with outdoor swimming pool with sun loungers, sits on the Mae Rampan Canal which the restaurant overlooks and has classical Thai dancing, bar, spa and wellness centre, massage, activities including cooking classes, all rooms have a balcony with canal, temple and courtyard views, bike rental, fabulous buffet breakfast included, tour desk, evening entertainment
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Have lunch, have a swim, have a massage and enjoy a little resort time. Before it gets too late grab one of the bicycles and head down to the historic park for sunset. You could get up early and see the sunrise as well. You could do your own DIY bike tour of the park or if you want to get more of an insight you can do a guided Bicycle Tour of the park or one that also adds riding in the countryside. Or you could talk to the tour desk at the resort.
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If you want to travel between Old and New Sukhothai just hail over a blue Songtheaw going your way (a small truck with people sitting in the back - the name means two benches) or you could charter your own tuk tuk. There's not a lot to see in New Sukhothai but there are more choices for restaurants and bars. Such as the Poo Restaurant. Poo or puu means crab in Thai. In a funny double transliteration gaff the Poo Restaurant sign had a comment suggesting you should try the "Crap"😁.
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One local specialty you should try here is Sukhothai Noodles. The resort has a good restaurant and even though some of them near the park cater to the tourist palate you can still find authentic food around. If you are looking for a drink in the evening outside of the resort, go for a wander up the main street and see what's about. Just like food in Thailand you're never very far away from a spot where you can sit down, settle in, have a session and watch the world go by. At the best prices too.
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Sukhothai UNESCO Historical Park
10 - 11 Kamphaeng Phet - 2N
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For the next leg head back to the bus station at New Sukothai and catch the bus which will take an hour and a half. Get off when it stops at the Clock Tower in Kamphaeng Phet as it is closer to your hotel and will save time and money. If there are no busses you can catch a public songthaew which takes around two hours. The best way to get around here is to hire a bicycle or a scooter. In these towns that don't see many tourists the public transport can be a bit limited as everyone has their own wheels. This town used to protect Ayutthaya from Burma and eventually that led to it's demise.
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Stay at or near Navarat Heritage Hotel ** - great location near the river and the night market, cafe, bar, very good breakfast included, fitness centre, bicycle rental
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Get yourself a scooter so you can go a bit further out and see the Phra Ruang hot springs (don't forget your bathers) and the Grand Canyon (before you get too excited, Thailand has many Grand Canyon's and they're not always that grand). There is another historical park, a temple - Wat Phra Kaeo where the Emerald Buddha used to reside and many other attractions including the Banana Market.
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You'll have a few more options for eating and drinking here than you had in Old Sukothai. The Night Market is right next door. There are bars with live music both north ands south. Across the river are numerous riverside restaurant bars. Head down to the riverside for sunset. Muu Kata cook your own BBQ are a big thing around here
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12 - 14 Chiang Mai - 3N
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Ask the hotel about bus times before you head out across the river to the Bus Station. The bus may go through Lampang (still following the trail of the Emerald Buddha) and could take around 5 hours to get to everybody's favourite town - Chiang Mai. They leave roughly hourly from 11.30am to 10.30 pm and arrive at Chiang Mai Bus Terminal 3. You will need to organise a tuk tuk or taxi to get to the hotel.
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Chiang Mai has pretty much got the lot. Many ex-pats retire here for that reason. And it's not just the town, the whole area is surrounded by mountains, resorts, golf courses, hot springs, handicrafts, restaurants, ziplines in an ancient forest, a grand canyon water park in a disused quarry and a whole lot more. You can Segway around the old town, shop every night at the huge Night Bazaar, help rehabilitate female prisoners with massage, the eating options are endless (with some great northern specialties), there are different nightlife areas and the climate is pleasantly cooler than most other parts of Thailand. One local invention is the Khantoke dinner which combines a meal of local dishes while watching a cultural show. Just don't come between January and March when the Burning season fills the air with smoke.
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Chiang Mai
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Stay at or near the Raming Lodge Hotel & Spa **** - excellent location on Loi Kroh Road near the moat, close to many restaurants and bars, walking distance to the Night Bazaar and the river, close to Sunday Walking Street, outdoor swimming pool, restaurant, bar, spa, massage, Thai-style rooms, tour desk - Chiang Mai has a lot of accommodation in all classes, click here for more information about the different areas you could stay in.
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If you are on the trail of the Emerald Buddha it was kept in Wat Chedi Luang for 77 years. Just before the Emerald Buddha left town the Chedi was partially destroyed by an earthquake. You can find this temple in the centre of the old city.
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If you are on the ancient capitals trail Wiang Kum Kam is 6 kms south of the city and there is an information centre there. It was discovered by chance back in 1980 and there are several dozen ancient monuments there which have been excavated.
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There are a lot of options below and it would be impossible to squeeze them into your time here. Just pick out what appeals to you and don't forget to relax.
EAT
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Breakfast - Blue Diamond Breakfast Club (Old favourite) - Smoothie Blues (Tha Pae and Nimmanhaemin locations) - Chiang Mai Breakfast World (In a German Beer Garden) - Phon Non Cafe (A bit of everything) - Bagel House Cafe & Bakery (Lots of fillings)
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Lunch - Aroon Rai (Great Curries, Northern Sausage and the beers are cold) - Intrawarorot Food Street (Chicken Shops near the 3 Kings Monument) - Huen Phen (Khao Soi and other family recipes) - Cherng Doi Roast Chicken (Crispy skin Chicken, Tamarind sauce, Sticky rice and Som Tam) - Mit Mai (Yunnanese food) - Royal Project Kitchen (Healthy, cheap and you can visit the Royal Park) - Noodle Soups (Health in a delicious bowl)
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Afternoon Smoko - Mont Nomsod (Thailand's first Milk Bar, the Bangkok branch) - Akha Ama Coffee (Hilltribe Coffee) - Kafe Bannok Coffee Roasters (Tables and chairs in the stream to keep you cool - on the way to the Grand Canyon) - Magokoro Teahouse (Japanese Tea Ceremony and Matcha treats) - Fern Forest Cafe (17 types cakes and pies) - Ristr8to (4 branches)
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Dinner - Dash Teak House (The house, the food and live music) - Palaad Tawanron (For the views and the food) - Riverside (Roast Duck in Tamarind Sauce, live music) and Dinner cruise - Khan Toke Dinner at the Old Chiang Mai Cultural Centre - Baan Huen Phen (connected to the other one serving Lanna Thai Cuisine) - Khao Mao Khao Fang (An Imaginary Jungle) - Tong Tem Toh (Burmese Pork Curry) - The Night Bazaar (Dinner, drinks and shopping - everybody's happy)
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Late Night - Roti Carts (scattered around) - Won ton and red pork noodle soup south west of the Tha Pae Gate - The Cowboy Hat Lady (Braised Pork and Rice opposite the North Gate) - Jok Sompet (24 hours with Basil chicken) - Zoe in Yellow (Backpackers hangout with burgers, kebabs and Mexican) - 7-11's (look closely and you'll be surprised - the sushi is pretty good and that's not all)
DO - In Town
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Walking tours - free plus tips
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Cooking School - take some knowledge home for a souvenir
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Massage at the Women's Prison - go there, make your booking, then have lunch at Intrawarorot Food Street (see food above) and go back and have your massage. It's not actually in the prison but across the road. The women are prisoners though and this is giving them some pocket money and some training for when they get out. There are a number of copy cat places that have sprung up nearby with "ex-women prisoners".
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Scorpion Boat cruise - see the Ping River
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Sunday Walking Street Market - shopping and eating bonanza near the hotel
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Temple tour - self guided and free
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Monk Chats - tips for happiness
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Get a traditional bamboo tattoo - (Sak Yant) from a monk
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Yoga - massage the inner you
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Hire a motorbike or scooter and ride the Samoeng Loop - Around 100 km
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Take a Muay Thai class - Thai Boxing
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Chiang Mai Night Safari - the largest nocturnal zoo in the world
DO - Out of Town
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Doi Suthep - Visit Wat Phra That Doi Suthep - Mountain Biking - Have lunch at Na Chantra Restaurant - Visit the Hmong Village - Do a meditation course
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Go to an Elephant Camp - where the elephants are well treated
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Visit a Long Neck Karen Village - and help support them
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Chiang Mai Grand Canyon - Go Cliff Diving or some more sedate activities
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Play Golf - a couple of courses
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Go to Doi Inthanon - Thailand's tallest mountain
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Hike the Monks Trail - to Wat Pha Lat the jungle temple
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Chiang Mai hikes - in different areas
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Visit Huay Tung Tao Lake - for lunch and a lazy afternoon, don't forget your bathers
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Go Ballooning - an excuse to drink champagne at 8.00 o'clock in the morning
DRINK
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Check this list from Mad Monkey first and this one
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Night Bazaar - The Red Lion - Ladyboy Cabaret - Boy Blues Bar
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Riverside - The Riverside - The Good View - Deck 1
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Loi Kroh - just do a pub crawl starting outside your front door
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Tha Pae Gate and along the moat - THC Rooftop Bar - go for a stroll
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Nimmanhaemin - Culture Trip - Warm Up Cafe
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Old Town - North Gate Jazz Co-Op - 10 Best - Zoe in Yellow
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Hand Painted Umbrellas
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Go to Chiang Mai Tours 2
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15 - 16 Tha Ton - 2N
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Chiang Mai has 3 bus stations and the one you want is Chang Puak Bus Terminal 1, it is 650m north of the North / or Chang Puak Gate. Take the local transport to Tha Ton, it may be a bus (no a/c but much more leg room) or a minivan. It's a pretty little town very close to the Myanmar border. It sits on either side of the scenic Kok River which you will travel along to Chiang Rai in a couple of days. You can even organise an overnight Hill Tribe stopover along the way or you could go trekking from Tha Ton itself. Anything from a few hours to several days.
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Don't forget to book your boat tickets at the pier by the Police Box. It takes 4 hours and leaves around 12.30pm. If you can get the numbers together you can hire your own boat and make a day of it with a few stops along the way. Or the public boat is still a great experience. The daily service runs between July to December and until the river levels are too low. You still may be able to charter your own boat when river levels are low. This river trip is one the highlights for many people.
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In the town stay at or near Saranya River House **** - excellent location near the river, the boat dock and the main street, outdoor swimming pool, ATM, restaurant, cafe, tour desk, minimart, massage - anywhere on the river is nice, although some could be a bit run down
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Resort a little further out (1.5km from the bridge) Maekok River Village Resort **** - excellent location riverside with stunning views, beautiful tropical gardens, outdoor swimming pool, full English breakfast included, Spice Garden Restaurant, Aod's Bar (coffee), trekking, cycling and cooking classes, all rooms have patio / balcony with mountain and river views
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Wat Tha Ton
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You can rent a scooter and visit the Hill Tribes and check out the awesome scenery. Or you could climb the nine levels at Wat Tha Ton (temple) and see the incredible view from the top and have a look into Myanmar. Or you could laze around by the pool or find a nice riverside restaurant and chill out for a few hours with a beer or a banana shake.
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The northern rice sausages that come out on the main road in the afternoon are excellent along with some sticky rice and som tam goong (spicy green papaya salad with dried shrimp). It's a great little town to have a day off and recharge the batteries for the rest of your trip.
17 - 18 Chiang Rai - 2N + 1
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Enjoy the boat trip today along the very scenic Kok River to Chiang Rai. Book into your hotel down the road from the Night Bazaar in Chiang Rai. This is the second largest town in the north after Chiang Mai and was the first capital of the Lan Na Kingdom. The Night Bazaar is a large rectangular area surrounded by food stalls and bars. One end has a stage where musical and cultural performances happen for free. They have a delicious cook your own soup that costs about $2. All in all it's hard to beat and the bar street is a short walk away.
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Stay at or near the Wiang Inn Hotel **** - excellent location in the centre of town, outdoor swimming pool, 3 dining options, northern Thai furnishings, bar, very good buffet breakfast included, massage, karaoke, cafe, night club, 24 hour desk.
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Get yourself a scooter and have a look at some of the sights. If you like your temples coloured you're in the right place. Here they have White (you could leave this one until you head south), Black (leave this one until you head up north) and Blue and they are all very impressive. Pay close attention to the details especially the characters in some of the murals. If you're still following in the Emerald Buddha's footsteps you will need to go to Wat Phra Kaew which is north of the clock tower. There is a replica Emerald Buddha here so you won't have to tax your imagination as much.
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Wat Rong Khun the White Temple - Chiang Rai
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Chiang Rai UTV Adventure Tours is an off road place near the bars on Jetyod Road. They're not cheap but they can be a lot of fun. If you want to spend a day at the beach you can do that too, even though you're about a thousand kilometers from the coast. If you are a golfer, you can't go past Santiburi which is the best golf course around here.
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Saturday nights feature the very large Chiang Rai Walking Street market. There seems to be enough food here to feed the whole province. Another local eating experience you may want to try is a Khantoke dinner. It involves a number of specialty dishes plus a cultural show. On any other nights start off in the Night Bazaar, then head to the bars in Jetyod Road for a while then finish the night at the night clubs down the south end of town around the Sperm Pub and the Par Club on Ratbumroong Road. Sing and Tawan Daeng are another couple of popular places. The kids are very friendly so even if you're feeling a bit old you'll be made welcome. There's lots of late night noodle soup shops to cap off a great night out before you head home feeling fully restored. These clubs put on a great show and you are allowed to take your own bottle in and just pay for mixers and ice which makes it an incredibly cheap experience.
19 - 20 Sop ruak - 2N (Golden Triangle)
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Leave your main pack behind at the hotel and head on up to Sop Ruak and the Golden Triangle with your day pack. You have various options with transport. Motorbike is best, or hire a car (the roads are good and traffic isn't too bad), or get a car with driver (not too expensive up here) or take public transport. It is very scenic with the jungle and the mountains.
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Turn left just past the hospital heading north on Hwy 1 then follow the signs to the amazing Black House (Baan Dam) museum. It's hard not to be impressed. Get an early start as it's easy to spend a few hours here.
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Stay at the riverside วัน บัดเจท เชียงราย เชียงแสน One Budget Hotel Chiangrai Chiangsaen **** - fantastic river-views over to Laos, each room has a patio, free parking, fitness centre, terrace
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Or for some real luxury how about well over $4,000 a night ( 2 nights minimum ) to sleep in their cheapest tent at the Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle ***** - swimming pool, bar, restaurant, wellness
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Visit the Hall of Opium and the equally interesting House of Opium. Head out to the impressive Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort for coffee or cocktails and perhaps buy some Black Ivory or more literally Elephant Poo coffee. Said to be the world's most expensive coffee and dearer than Kopi Luwak (Civet Poo coffee). You can go for a long tailed boat ride on the Mekong River and see the tacky development on the Lao side. You used to be able to go over to a market at Don Sao in Laos but that has been closed down. Head to Golden Triangle Park for that obligatory photo. Pretty little riverside Chiang Saen is just down the road and it is the oldest city in Thailand. It has markets, museums and old temples and ruins of course.
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There is not a lot of night life around here but you can always find a local restaurant where you can sit around having a few drinks and a laugh meeting the locals.
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Phra Chiang Saen Si Phaendin - Big Buddha at Sop Ruak
21 Chiang Rai - 1N
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Head to the market and border town of Mae Sai. This is the northernmost point in Thailand. If you want to you can normally cross into Myanmar for a few hours without a visa. Look around, have lunch and you'll be amazed how different things are on this side of the border. Do some shopping and pick up some Royal Myanmar Teamix packets and Burmese cheroots.
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From Mae Sai head to Tham Luang Khun Nam Nang Non. You've heard the name before but it probably doesn't sound familiar. This is the cave that the Wild Boars soccer team and their coach were trapped in for for 18 days and captured the attention of the world in 2018. These days there is a memorial, a museum, replica cave sections and all manner of things for the tourists.
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Continue on to Chiang Rai and enjoy another night in this magic place. If you hired a car, hang on to it. If you didn't organise one from tomorrow for four days and being dropped off in Chiang Mai. A small one is best for some of the narrow roads coming up.
22 - 23 Phayao - 2N
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It's about an hour and a half drive down Hwy 1 to lakeside Phayao. If you haven't visited the White Temple yet it's 12 km south of town on the right.
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Not many people get around to visit charming Phayao (even Thais) but they should. It has a great bar scene with lots of live music. There are even a few rooftop bars. The local ladies are renowned for their beauty. The lakeside restaurants specialize in Phayao's signature dish - grilled fish, and they are on display out the front. Grab a beer and a feed and enjoy the effect of the sunset on the lake. Every night there is a Night Market. In the middle of the lake is the 500 year old partially sunken temple Wat Tilok Aram which is also very picturesque at sunset. Mix all of that with some of the outlying attractions and you really have a hidden gem. Check out around the town on one day and go for a drive around the lake on the other day.
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Sunken Temple - Phayao
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Stay at or near the Baan Arunothai Homestay - free parking, restaurant, terrace, excellent location by the lake and near the restaurant, bars and boat pier.