LAOS
Mekong Sunsets with Beerlao, Dramatic Scenery & Laid-back Friendly People
Photo by Robert Metz on Unsplash
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Your holiday - Your way
COUNTRY GUIDE
Patuxi - the vertical runway
BEST TIME TO GO - October to April is warm and dry.
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The wet season is May to September but it doesn't rain that much.
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Travel on the rivers is best between November and January.
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Bottom line is any time of the year is okay.
STAY - All hotels are available on Booking.com unless otherwise stated. Check and see that you get free cancellation. (If not just go in off the street when you get there. Have a second hotel in mind just in case. If it's a busy time such as public holidays or a festival is on it pays to have a booking.) Choose that hotel or one nearby that you like in your price range. Click location and have a look at the map. Accommodation in Laos is pretty reasonable and there are some really nice places especially in Luang Prabang.
BUDGET -
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Laos is a relatively cheap country to travel in. You will eat well and stay in decent hotels for a modest amount. And the local drop Beerlao is cheap and delicious.
TIPS -
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Stick to well worn paths - there is still a LOT of UXO or unexploded ordinance laying around the countryside
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Carry a photocopy of your passport at all times
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Download Maps.me app and the appropriate maps onto your phone before you go
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ATM's are few and far between as well as being unreliable on the 4,000 islands so take plenty of Kip to keep you going
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To get around towns and to and from bus stations etc you'll need to use tuk tuks aka jumbos. Your bargaining skills will improve as you go on and just remember it's much cheaper than a taxi back home would cost.
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If you are entering Thailand on the visa waver they now only allow 2 per calendar year and some countries only get 15 days at a land border. Their visa rules are in a bit of a state of flux at the moment so this could change.
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Keep 10,000 kip for the border fee when leaving Pakse - spend the rest
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Chiang Mai International Airport (CNX) - this will be your starting off point. You may be able to fly directly here or you may have to come through Bangkok. It has direct flights to 27destinations in 11 countries around Asia including Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Shanghai, Tokyo and Seoul so you could connect through one of these.
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Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK) - has direct flights to 119 destinations in 46 countries and is your best bet. Most cheap flights to Chiang Mai leave from Don Mueang Airport. There is a free shuttle between the 2 Bangkok Airports which takes an hour or two depending on the traffic.
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Don Mueang International Airport (DMK) - has direct flights with 76 destinations in 17 countries around Asia. It is the terminal for the low cost carriers and has a free shuttle service to Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK) the other main new airport in Bangkok.
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Ubon Ratchachani Airport (UBP) - when you finish the trip this will be the closest airport to fly back to Bangkok. It also has flights to Chiang Mai which may help and also to Phuket if you want to hit the beach for a while.
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Pakse Airport (PKZ) - Pakse is where you will finish the trip. It has flights to Luang Prabang, Vientiane, Siem Reap (Angkor Wat in Cambodia) and Ho Chi Minh City.
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Don't forget to buy some travel insurance to protect the money you have outlaid for your tickets.
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POPULATION - 7,582,000
CAPITAL - Vientiane
RELIGION - Theravada Buddhism
ETHNICITY - Lao 53.2%, Khmou 11%, Hmongs 9.2%, plus over 100 minor ethnic groups
LANGUAGE - Lao
NATIONAL DRINK - Lao-Lao (rice whisky)
NATIONAL DISH - Laap (minced meat salad)
GOVERNMENT - Communist
BORN - 22nd October 1953
BIG MAC IN $US - Not Here
LITERACY - 84.6%
MINIMUM WAGE ANNUAL IN $US - $830
CURRENCY - Lao Kip LAK $1 = 17,320 LAK
LIFE EXPECTANCY - 67
TOURISTS PER YEAR - 4.59 million
NO.1 TOURIST SITE - Luang Prabang
CHEERS - ຕຳແກ້ວ (Tham Keo - "Hit Glass")
LAO MEKONG TRIP 25N
HIGHLIGHTS - ping, mekong & nam song
Chiang Mai 3N
Chiang Khong 1N -
Pak Beng 1N -
Luang Prabang 4N -
Vang Vieng 2N -
Vientiane 4N -
Savannakhet 2N -
Pakse 1N -
Don Khong 3N &
Don Khon 3N = 25N
to Pakse 1N via
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Lao BBQ
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Beer LAO
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Get cupped
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4,000 Islands
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Disco bowling
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Cooking School
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Hot Air Ballooning
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Vientiane riverfront
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Learn how to grow rice
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See how Lao Lao is made
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Sundowners by the Mekong
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Zipline an ancient rainforest
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Overnight Mekong River Cruise
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Segway an ancient walled city
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Visit Patuxai - the vertical runway
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Tubing through karst topography
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French coffee and patisserie for brekky
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The Widest Waterfall in the World - the Khone Falls
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Pha That Luang - the most important building in Laos
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UNESCO World Heritage French Colonial Old Capital Luang Prabang
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Start in Chiang Mai which has an international airport and finish in Pakse which has air connections to neighbouring countries and a bridge to Thailand. It easy to get back to Bangkok and you can get a cheap ticket to Chiang Mai from here so it may be easiest to fly in and out of Bangkok.
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Your journey through Laos begins with a 2 day cruise down the Mekong. You will continue to follow it down to the Cambodian border. Apart from Chiang Mai (Ping River) and Vang Vieng (Nam Song River) the rest of the towns are located on the banks of the Mekong one of the world's great rivers. Sadly China has built 11 massive dams on the river permanently altering it's character. It's still a great trip though.
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The Mekong cruise departs on Fridays, Sundays and Wednesdays so you will need to start this trip on Monday, Wednesday or Saturday. Double check with the cruise company before you book anything. The That Luang Festival is held in Vientiane usually in November and might be another attraction. Book your hotel early.
1 - 3 Chiang Mai - 3N
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Start off in everyone's favourite city, the "Rose of the North", Chiang Mai which has an International Airport. Some places you can fly direct from are Singapore, Laos, Bangkok, Malaysia, Vietnam and Myanmar. So it would be easy to combine this with another trip in the region.
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Stay at or near Raming Lodge Hotel & Spa **** - perfect location for the restaurants and night life of Loi Kroh Road, outdoor pool and spa, decorated in Thai style
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Central Chiang Mai is quite walkable. For longer trips there are tuk tuks and taxis for hire. Plus there are songthaews (utes with 2 benches the back) which run regular routes and can also be chartered.
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Chiang Mai is famous for it's Night Bazaar which is one of the best in Asia. The food is wonderful. Plenty of good nightlife. It has a wall and a moat. Loads of temples. A very weird water park. And a thousand other things. No wonder it's so popular.
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Try the Cooking classes and have a massage from the Women's Prison. Have a look at Chiang Mai in Cities for different areas to stay, what to do and where to eat.
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Eat Khao Soi, Burmese pork curry, Northern sausage, Nam Prik Ong and go to a Khantoke dinner and show.
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Check out the Nightlife with live music bars by the river, Loi Kroh and Nimmanhaemin
4 Chiang Khong - 1N
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Catch the 8 am bus to Chiang Khong on the west bank of the Mekong. Stay at the Chiangkhong Teak Garden Riverfront Onsen Hotel **** - excellent location on the river bank, outdoor swimming pool, garden, terrace, free bikes, restaurant featuring local cuisine, good breakfast included - make sure to get a river view, some rooms have a hot tub
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If you want to save a few dollars and enjoy some old world charm try the Baan Tammila Guesthouse* right next door - same great views and the food is pretty good too
Vientiane
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Image by BLANVILLAIN from Pixabay
Sunset on the Mekong
Photo by Molydar SOUAMA on Unsplash
Go to Chiang Mai tours 1
5 Pak beng - 1N
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This morning you will be picked up and looked after for the next two days as you head off on your Mekong River Cruise. Some of the other options to get down the river are disappointing at best and life riskingly dangerous at worst. This cruise is well managed and worth every dollar / euro / baht / kip. You will travel in style, enjoy the scenery, eat good meals and stop off at interesting places along the way. Spend the night in Pak Beng and have the option to upgrade your lodgings or book your own. They will pick you up in Chiang Khong, take you across the river, help you with your visa and drop you off at the boat.
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If you are looking to book your own try the Mekong Riverside Lodge *** - see what the cruise operator has to offer first.
6 - 9 Luang Prabang - 4N
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Arrive in the afternoon at Luang Prabang the former Royal Capital. The old colonial French part of town was UNESCO listed back in 1995. This is where you will be staying. The standard of cafes, patisseries, restaurants and bars is really quite high. Enjoy a few Beer Lao's watching the gorgeous sunsets over the Mekong River.
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This area is quite compact and easily walked. If you get a bicycle don't put any valuables in the basket. If you hire a motorbike there are a few scams to be aware of.
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To go to the attractions out of town like Kuang Si Falls (in the wet season there is a secret path to get behind the falls and enter an amazing environment where you can watch the ferns quivering in the breeze created by the waterfall) and Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Centre (which are right next to each other) you'll need to organise a songthaew. (Utility with two benches in the back).
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Stay anywhere in the UNESCO area. Here's a few riverside ones to look at.
On the Mekong Side
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Sala Prabang Hotel *** - original colonial style buildings and traditional Lao style Villas, good breakfast included looking over the river, garden
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Villa Alounsavath Mekong Riverside - restaurant, bar, breakfast included, river views
On the Nam Khan Side
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Golden Lotus Namkhan View *** - garden, restaurant, bar
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Saynamkhan Riverview *** - restaurant, car and motorbike rental
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UNESCO Old Quarter - Luang Prabang
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Go to Luang Prabang Tours 2
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Learn all about rice growing and even work the plough behind a water buffalo. Do a cooking class. Learn about coffee. Head out into the countryside on a motorbike. Play a round at the beautiful Luang Prabang Golf Club. Check out the Palace (for moon rocks), the Temples, climb Mt Phousi for sunset (you might want to take some mosquito spray) then dinner at the Night Market. Have a look through the wide variety of tours above.☝️
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Get up early to see the Monks on their morning rounds. Eat Lao BBQ (Sindad), drink Beer Lao and Lao Lao (go to the village and see how it's made). To recover from all of this activity head to the Red Cross for a herbal sauna and traditional massage also helping out with a good cause. And we've barely scratched the surface. If you can extend your time here.
10 - 11 Vang vieng - 2N
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You have a few options for the next leg of your journey. The slowest and most scenic on the bus on the old route. The vomit inducing van ride on the new road, or the out of place fast train. The scenery is seriously worth taking the bus even though it is an extra 4 ½ hours. Have a look at this guide and make your own mind up.
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Stay at or near the Silver Naga Hotel **** - excellent central location on the river with terrace and stunning views across the river into the mountains, close to the Night Market and restaurants, make sure you get a room with river view, rooftop pool, restaurant, bar, spa and wellness centre.
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Vang Vieng had a notorious reputation a few years back due to the wild party scene with young backpackers. They've moved on but the town remains stunningly beautiful but much quieter and safer. Be careful about tubing when the river currents are strong (plus the scam mentioned in the link).
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Still enough places remain to give you a good choice of rooms, restaurants and bars. The Blue Lagoon is a great spot to head out to for the day. In fact there are about 6 Blue Lagoons and the further you go out the thinner the crowds will be. You will need some sort of transport to get out there. Hire a tuk tuk, motorbike or go on a tour. Beware of thieving owners if you hire a motorbike. (See SCAMS in TIPS above) You can also go Hot Air Ballooning over this scenic area. They close from July 15th to September 15th during the wet season.
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Karst Topography - Vang Vieng
12 - 15 Vientiane - 4N
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This time I recommend taking the fast train into Vientiane. It is known as the sleepiest capital city in SE Asia although it has seen some development in recent years. The riverfront area has been redone and has a string of restaurants and bars that make for a great night out. It's also the place to be having a sundowner watching the sun set over the Mekong. There are some good museums and it is worth learning about the major UXO (unexploded ordinance) problem that Laos has due to it's being the most bombed country in history during the not so secret war. The numbers are staggering.
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Stay at or near the New Champa Boutique Hotel **** - excellent location near the Night Market, outdoor swimming pool, garden, terrace, good breakfast included
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Le Charme Vientiane Hotel *** - excellent location near the Night Market, outdoor swimming pool, restaurant, bar
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Mali Namphu Hotel *** - great location near the Nam Phou Fountain midway between the riverside and main parts of town, free bikes, garden, outdoor swimming pool, good breakfast included
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With 4 days here you'll have enough time to get around and see a few things. There are some nice golf courses and you can play at night if you like. Have a look at the Isaan golf trip to see the courses. For visiting local icons there is the vertical runway Patuxai for city views and souvenirs, the national symbol That Luang which is said to house the breastbone of the Buddha, Buddha Park (there is another one across the river in Thailand made by the same man) and a visit to the Beer Lao factory.
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Have a look through the tours below which may be helpful for getting around to the local attractions and learning their history -
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Photo by Molydar SOUAMA on Unsplash
Pha That Luang - the National Talisman
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You can go cupping and then get cupped (across the road from the Tipsy Elephant). Both recommended. Or you could head out to the forest for a herbal steam sauna and massage. There are a number of impressive temples and you should visit the COPE Visitor Centre to see how they are coping with this monumental problem. Six kms out of town you will find the Kaysone Phomivihane Memorial. He led the country from 1975 after the communist takeover until his death in 1992. There are some interesting exhibits and it's a good way to learn a bit more about the country.
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Well before the sun starts to set you should be making your way down to the riverfront and finding a good spot to settle in for the show. Bor Pen Nyang is one of the more famous places. There are plenty to pick from so change your vantage point each night. Rooftop bars such as the Tipsy Elephant, 7th Heaven and the Luminar Rooftop Bar are also good for sundowners.
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A few snacks always go down well with sunset cocktails. When the time comes for something more substantial you have the Night Market nearby. You will also find plenty of street food around the place. Try the Nam Khao crispy rice ball salad. Partly with thanks to the French influence there is no scarcity of good cafes and restaurants either. Lao BBQ or Sindad is a great way to eat and you can get it at Malalin Fusion which is located across the street from Wat Phiavat.
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There are drinking establishments and areas scattered all around the city. Also you have bowling and a few other distractions. Night golf as mentioned earlier. A lot of place close early around 10 pm or 11pm but you can still get a drink after this. The Samlo Bar stays open until 3.30am and there are others and a few clubs around as well. For something different try Lao style bowling complete with alcohol and load music. They stay open late as well.
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The best thing after a late night out is a restorative bowl of noodle soup. Your tuk tuk driver will know where to get one. Buy him a bowl as well. See if they have that delicious thick and spicy peanut sauce called "suki". Be careful walking around in the early hours.
16 - 17 Savannakhet - 2N
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Continue along the river to Savannakhet. You can either take the bus or fly depending on your tolerance for 10 hour bus trips as opposed to $100, 1 hour flights. Check the timetable for the Pakse bus at some stage.
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This is a friendly and laid back place with a nice ambiance due to the French colonial buildings and lack of tourists. Due to it's location as a transit point between Vietnam and Thailand you will find Vietnamese restaurants as well as Japanese, Thai, Chinese, Western, Lao BBQ and local specialities. Savannakhet has terrific sunsets and a great big riverside restaurant to enjoy them from.
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Stay at or near Pilgrim's Kitchen & Inn - excellent location on the river not too far from the bus station and night market, rent a motorbike from them to get around town (minimal traffic), riverside terrace restaurant, room service
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You can use this stop a a bit of a rest enjoying the laid back ambiance and riverside bars and restaurants. Have a herbal sauna and massage as well as a massage from the Association of Blind Massage. Ask your hotel for recommendations and information.
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If you want to get out and about you can stroll around the old French Concession and have a look at St Therese Cathedral or visit some of the other attractions on walking tours, such as the Dinosaur Museum and Khaysone Phomvihane's House. Or get a bicycle to get around a bit quicker. Lin's Cafe is a good place to get information and they do walking tours too. The Tourist Information Centre is quite close to them.
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Head riverside for the sunset. There's something about Mekong sunsets, they never seem to get old. There's a good choice of places along the river. You will also find vendors selling cheap bottles of Beerlao and Lao BBQ along the river bank.
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There is not much of a night life here but you will find some bars and restaurants with live music. Your hotel has an open mike night. Some of the place you may want to check out include the nearby floating Muengfar Restaurant. They have live music and it's only 600m south of the hotel. The Night Market is 1.5 kms north. The old night market at Talat Yen Plaza has been closed so don't get confused by references to it.
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LAO PDR and Cambodia have made it a practice to scatter casinos around their countries which are located near Thai border crossings. Gambling is illegal in Thailand, apart from horse racing and the lottery. Thanks to Friendship Bridge #2 across the river to Mukdahan in Thailand, Savannakhet has a casino. So if you're keen to have a flutter head out to the Savan Resort which is about 8 kms north of the hotel.
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Some other places to try are Baguette Maison and Macchiato de Coffee for the mornings and for the evenings try SookSavan, Tamarind Cafe, Laochaleun Bar, Lao Derm (Authentic and Classy Lao food), Sabaidee Restaurant (For Sindat - Lao BBQ), Lao Derm (Sindat - Lao BBQ by the water) and The River Cafe & Bar.
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If you want to get to know the area a bit better have a look at this homestay in a traditional local village.
18 Pakse - 1N
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For ease of traveling you will be spending the night in Pakse to save ten plus hours on a bus getting to the islands in one hit. This will also be where you will finish up after the islands if you want to go back through Thailand. So you could leave some luggage here which could make travelling on songthaews and boats a lot easier. The bus from Savannakhet will take 6 hours. There are 2 buses a day, one at 7am and one at 5pm. Better set the alarm.
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Stay at or near Pakse Hotel & Restaurant *** - excellent location near the market, cafes and restaurants, set in a former cinema and casino, with a wonderful rooftop restaurant / bar (2 for 1 happy hour with free appetizers), exceptional breakfast included
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Once you've settled in you'll be able to check out the town a bit before heading back to the rooftop for happy hour and sundowners. Pick up enough cash to keep you going for a week before you leave here as you cant rely on ATM's on the islands. Some of the properties will let you pay for accommodation with your credit card. You might want to go for a massage, do a bit of shopping for the islands or sit down with a coffee and do a little people watching. Nearby Cafe Sinouk gets it's beans from its own plantation an hour away. Pick up a few souvenirs while you're here.
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Another early start in the morning. How ever if you're looking for a drink here's a few places to consider.
19 - 21 Don khong / muang khong 3N
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Set the alarm again you don't want to miss that exceptional breakfast. You should be out at the Southern Bus Station (also known as the km8 station as that is how far it is out of town) by 7.30 to catch the local bus (likely songthaew) to Ban Hat Xai Khoun where you will arrive around 10.30 am. From here you can take the boat over to Don Khong. The "local bus" wont leave Pakse until it is full.
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Not many land locked countries can boast 4000 Islands but southern Laos can. When you hear the term Si Phan Don you will know it means 4,000 islands. Here the Mekong can be 14 km wide creating a riverine tropical island paradise. Part of the party crowd has shifted down from Vang Vieng but they are mainly on Don Det.
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To get a good appreciation of the area you will stay on two islands. Firstly a quiet undeveloped one where you can commune with nature and the other one with more facilities and near some of the attractions. Most of the population on the first island live by agriculture and fishing so you'll get to see the traditional way of life. The island is mainly flat so it's a great place to explore by bicycle.
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Stay at or near the Pon Arena Hotel - 200m north of where the ferry arrives, 2 great infinity pools (look at the pictures), river front restaurant terrace, make sure you get a room in the riverside building (they also have one across the road) with a river view
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or Senesothxuene Hotel *** - excellent location riverside 500m south of ferry landing, outdoor swimming pool, restaurant, bar
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also nearby Kongmany Prestige Hotel *** and the Kongmany Colonial House
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Hire a motorbike or bicycle and explore the island. Best done early in the day to beat the heat. The Tourist Information office has a map you can take a photo of. You're not looking for major attractions just observing everyday life. Come back, relax in the pool. Enjoy cocktails watching the sunset. Have dinner and drink Beerlao. Have a day off. Lay in a hammock. Get a massage. Sundowners, dinner and Beerlao. You'll get the hang of it. Some people say there is nothing to do here but they are the boring ones. Just meander about and see how the locals live their lives and enjoy the relaxation of having nothing pressing to do.
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The best way to get to the next island is by boat. It leaves every morning from the Don Khong Guesthouse at 8 - 9 am. Don't forget to organise your tickets a day or so earlier.
22 - 24 Don Khon - 3N
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From the second island you'll be able to visit the impressive Khone falls, laze on the beach or get out on the water. Not so long ago you could have gone out and had a look at the Irrawaddy Dolphins but sadly the last one died in 2022 and they are now extinct.
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This is the last destination on the trip. From here it's back to Pakse and Thailand. If you have the time and money you could cross into Cambodia and continue following the Mekong down to the delta in Vietnam even.
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The historical French railway bridge between Don Det and Don Khon
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Stay at or near Sala Done Khone Hotel ** - excellent location river side, close to restaurants and 500m from the French Bridge to Don Det, floating studios with great sunsets, outdoor pool, bar, river side terrace restaurant, shuttle service to Pakse for US$120
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or Dokchampa Guesthouse * - huge rooms with balcony overhanging the Mekong River - bike rental
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Pan Guest House Donkhone - riverside, with a pool, bar and terrace
If you're looking to spice things up a bit and want to stay nearer the nightlife on Don Det try -
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Don Det Hotel *** - excellent location and views from riverside terrace restaurant by the outdoor pool
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There's a bit more action around here than Don Khong. The backpackers from Vang Vieng have taken over Don Det so you'll find all sorts of activities restaurants and bars and nightlife. It's all on the other side of the bridge though and if you're enjoying the peace and quiet just stay home. You should at least go over for a look and get a "Been There Don Det" T - Shirt though.
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This was the site of Laos's one and only (until recently) railway line. The French built it to get around the massive Khone Falls which is certified by Guinness as the widest waterfalls in the world. The rusted old locomotive is still sitting near the railway bridge that links Don Khon and Don Det.
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After a bit of hammock time hire yourself a motorbike or bicycle and you have two more islands to discover. Hire a kayak, go tubing, have a day at the beach, visit the falls or go for a boat cruise. With 4,000 islands it's all about the water. For sundowners and dinner just wander along and find something nice on the river. Make sure you enjoy your last few Mekong sunsets.
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Si Pun Don = 4,000 Islands
25 Pakse - 1N
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Getting back to Pakse entails catching a ferry over to a place called Nakasang and then a bus ride. It will take about 4 hours and you will find many places on the island you can get tickets from. Back to the same hotel and their rooftop happy hour.
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You still have a few days left on your visa if you want to you could go out to the Sinouk Coffee Resort & Restaurant on the Bolaven Plateau for a night or two. Learn about coffee. Drink a lot of it. Hang by the pool or the waterfall. Take a motorbike or the bus. A bike would give you freedom to move around when you get there. It's 90 km away. Have a chat to the people in the Cafe Sinouk.
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Take the 3 hour VIP bus to Ubon Ratchathani. From Ubon to Bangkok you can take a very cheap flight or if you are nostalgic for the old days you can take a train. Get yourself a sleeper and take the overnight train. 2nd class fan sleepers are fine.