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Coramandel 2 Malabar

Coramandel 2 Malabar

ITINERARY


Chennai 2N 

Mahabalipuram 1N

Puducherry 3N 

Yercaud 2N 

Tiruchirappalli 2N

Madurai 2N

Mandapam  2N

Thiruchendur 1N 

Kanyakumari 2N 

Kovalam Beach 3N  

Varkala Beach 4N 

Alleppey 1N + 2N (& Kerala Backwaters Houseboat 2N)

Thekkady 2N 

Munnar 2N 

Fort Kochi 3N 


= 1775 Km - 36 Nights - 15 Towns and 1 Houseboat

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Skill Level -

Unless you're a tuk tuk driver by profession you probably haven't driven one before. So you'll have to learn on the job. At handover one of the rental company's experienced drivers will give you a lesson. Have a few easy runs until you feel proficient at it. In 2006 two English girls bought a tuk tuk in Bangkok and drove it back to England and had a ball.

You can read  about it in their book Tuk-Tuk to the road: Two Girls, Three Wheels, 12,500 Miles. It might give you some inspiration.


Your main worries are road conditions, weather, other drivers and animals on the road. So drive slowly, never drive at night, don't drink and drive, stay alert and use your horn a lot. Learn how the locals navigate traffic and do it the same way. Best if everyone is on the same page. Also find out local customs. In some countries if the vehicle in front puts on their traffic side indicator it means it's ok to pass. In other countries it means don't pass something is coming. When in doubt or when you can't see the road ahead be patient.




When -

Late November to February is the best time. The monsoon rains have eased off and the temperature isn't too hot.

March - May is very hot. June to September is very wet. October - November hot, humid and afternoon rain.




Famous -

Madras Curry / Mulligatawny / Filter Coffee

Madras Curry Powder - ironically you can't get it in Madras (Chennai)

Marina Beach - Chennai the world's 2nd longest urban beach

2 Kovalam Beaches - one famous, one not

Trichinopoly Cigars - favoured by Sir Winston Churchill and Sherlock Holmes

Adam's Bridge - to Sri Lanka

Houseboat on the Kerala Backwaters

Kerala the world's Spice Capital

Drive India's most scenic road - Thekkady to Munnar

One of the finest natural harbours in the World

Tellicherry Pepper - Black Gold - TGSEB - Tellicherry Garbled Special Extra Bold - the world's highest rating for pepper




Highlights -

Mahabalipuram UNESCO World heritage Site - temples and monuments

Asia's largest seashell museum - 20,000 of them

Auroville - Experimental Cashless Universal City

Hill Stations - Yercaud / Thekkady / Munnar

The best Coffee, Spices and Tea Plantations

The Rock Fort Temple on a massive 4 billion year old rock

Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple - 73 metres high and 156 acres big

Bathe in Holy Waters and wash your sins away - three times, just in case you're really bad

Pink Flamingos - from Australia!

The southernmost point of India - where the Indian Ocean, the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal all meet

Two of India's top surf beach resorts

The Western Ghats - mountain chain

Stay in a tree house

Periyar Tiger Reserve - sanctuary for Elephants, Bengal Tigers and others

The rare and friendly mountain goats of ENP - UNESCO Nominated

The Paris of the East / The Athens of the East / The Alexandria of the East / The Venice of the East / The Kashmir of the South

Cuisines - Anglo-Indian (Raj) / Franco-Indian (Creole) / French / Tamil / Chettinad / Kerala 




Budget -

Low - this trip is designed for 2 people sharing the costs. Tuk Tuks are cheap and so is India. You can have a reasonable comfort level without having to spend too much. Some of the hotels in here will stretch the budget, but you  might be looking for a bit of luxury after a few days tuk tukking. You should save money with walk in prices or just look and you'll find plenty of cheap places. Nice accomodation will buoy your spirits along the way.




Pack -

Normally. Don't forget some sun glasses, a waterproof jacket and those thick orange garden bags are handy to put around your bag to make them waterproof. Something warm for the mountains and a pair of gloves wouldn't go astray. A large day pack would be best to take with you. Unless you have a roof rack there won't be a lot of room for luggage. You can rent surf racks. Or maybe get one each. Take some dress up clothes for the hill station clubs.




Visa -

Almost everyone needs a visa for India. A tourist visa will give you plenty of time for this trip which should be between 90 - 180 days.

Click here to check what you need to do.




Flights & Airports

Fly into Chennai International Airport (MAA) 

which has direct flights to 65 destinations in 18 countries including the Middle East, Europe, Africa and Asia.


Fly out of Cochin International Airport (COK) 

which has direct flights to 31 destinations in 13 countries including Europe, the Middle East and Asia.


Check here for flights.




Starting Town -

Chennai - not to long here. Just a couple of nights to arrive and get organised. Pick up your tuk tuk and get acquainted. Go for a bit of a test ride and check tyres and fluids etc. Why not head down the ECR (East Coast Road) to Kovalam Beach (Surf scene) and stop in at the Kipling Cafe for a meal. Stay in the Savera Hotel, there are a few other hotels, restaurants and bars in this area. You probably don't need to book all of your hotels on this trip. If it's peak season it would pay to book in Kovalam and Varkala beaches.




Rental -

Unlike motorbikes you don't get a lot of choice with tuk tuks. There is a surcharge for picking it up in Chennai and dropping it off at Cochin International Airport.

Click here to go to the website and book online.

Don't for get to take an International Driving Licence accredited with driving a car. This is all you will need to legally drive the tuk tuk.




Itinerary -

From the Coramandel Coast to the Malabar Coast this trip will be like nothing you've ever done before. Length of driving times have been kept to a comfortable level to make it a pleasant trip and give you plenty of time to stop off along the way. The longest day is 235 km and the daily average is 50 km.


Chennai 2N - 60 km - Mahabalipuram 1N - 100 km -  Puducherry 3N - 235 km- Yercaud 2N - 170 km - Tiruchirappalli 2N - 140 km - Madurai 2N - 160 km - Mandapam  2N - 200 km - 


Thiruchendur 1N  - 95 km - Kanyakumari 2N - 95 km - (En-route go via the Padmanabhapuram Palace and the Mathoor Aqueduct) - Kovalam Beach 3N - 60 km 


(En-route have lunch on the Floating Restaurant at Veli Village) - Varkala Beach 4N - 110 km - Alleppey 1N + 2N (and Kerala Backwaters Houseboat 2N) - 60 km - Thekkady 2N - 105 km - (En-route go to the Periyar Spice and Ayurvedic Garden and have lunch at Mountain Club (in Chinnakanal) - one of two old Planters Clubs in Munnar - great food 



with outdoor seating and fine mountain views - take your bathers for the Infinity Pool) - Munnar 2N - 135 km - Fort Kochi 3N - Airport - 50 km


= 1775 Km - 36 Nights - 15 Towns and 1 Houseboat


If the trip is too long for you there are numerous points where you can just cut something out. You'll be missing out on something you'll never get back though. Better if you've got more time and can spend a little extra time in some of the places.


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Stay - B* are on Booking.com

You should be able to walk in to most hotels and get a room without booking - but if there is something you really like or it's a busy tourist place book it on Booking.com with free cancelation. Also it's worth checking out the specials especially on some of the more expensive hotels. Nice accommodation helps to keep the spirits up so most of these hotels are 3, 4 and 5*****. You can save a lot staying in cheap places but don't forget to treat yourself every now and then when something special comes along. Usually the most preferred and expensive place is at the top and they get cheaper going down. Specials and what rooms are available can change this along with other reasons.


You've got your own wheels so you'll be able to stay in some more out of the way resorts and not have to worry about public transport. Click on the Marker Map to see what they look like.⬆️



Chennai - "Gateway to the South" - in Mylapore - Madras


Savera Hotel**** - 

B* Parking - indoor and outdoor pools, Spa,


New Woodlands Hotel *** - 

Parking - pool


Raj Park *** - 

B* Parking - pool



Mahabalipuram - "Mahabs" - near the beach

Find somewhere you like north of the temple on the beach


Hotel Maallaa Heritage *** - 

B* Parking - Pool, 2 restaurants


Hotel Mahabs *** - 

B* Parking - pool


Oceanside Mahabalipuram ***

B* Parking


SPLURGE

Chariot Beach Resort **** - 

Parking - Olympic size pool, beachfront, Ayurveda and Wellness Spa, Bakery + 2 restaurants, Bar



Puducherry -  "Pondy" - "Paris of the East" - In the French Quarter


Villa Du Ocean *** - 

B* Street Parking - Rooftop Pool, Bar, Rooftop Restaurant


Villa Krish *** - 

B* Private parking nearby reservation needed - Pool, Bar, BBQ and sun terrace, Rooftop restaurant open air with sea views, seafood and tandoori


Hotel Villa Des Gouverneurs *** - 

B* Public parking - Was the residence of the French Governor, garden and terrace



Yercaud -  A Hill Station - "The Jewel of the South"


Grand Palace Hotel & Spa ***½ - 

B.com* Parking - Infinity Swimming pool with a stunning view and bar, Restaurant, Roof Terrace, Full service Spa - worth the money


Stirling Yercaud **** - 

B* Parking - Spa, every room has amazing views, theme parties, campfire, Restaurant, Bar, dining area in rooms, cricket



Tiruchirappalli - "Trichy"


Hotel Rock Fort View *** - 

B* Valet Parking - Rooftop Rock Fort view Restaurant and Bar


Vivid A Boutique Hotel *** - 

B* Parking


Grande Inn Trichy *** - 

B* Parking



Madurai - "The Athens of the East" - "City of Jasmine"


The Gateway Hotel Pasumalai Madurai ***** - 

B* Parking - On a hilltop with views of Madurai and the famous temple, Pool, outdoor fireplace, BBQ, Restaurant, Bar, 62 acres of landscaped gardens, Ayurvedic treatment centre, Tennis courts, Moon Deck - dining under the stars with stunning views. If they only have Kings Suites on Booking.com it may look very expensive but don't worry their 'normak' rooms are much more reasonably priced.


The Madurai Residency ***

B* Parking - For something cheaper and close to the temple, 2 restaurants - 1 rooftop, bar, snack bar, 24 hour desk, very good breakfast included



Mandapam -


Joe's Beach Shack - Beach resort, Ramanathapuram

B*Parking - Outdoor swimming pool, restaurant, patio with garden view, beachfront, bidet, breakfast included



Thiruchendur -


Thai Beach Resort - **½ - 

Parking - Pool, BBQ

Otherwise there are plenty of hotels to choose from



Kanyakumari - "Cape Comorin" - "The Alexandria of the East"


Sparsa Resort Kanyakumari *** - 

B* Parking - 2 pools, tennis, 5 min walk from sunset point, sea views, Restaurant, Bar - Land's End, Beachfront


The Seashore Hotel *** - 

Valet Parking - Sunrise views, terrace, restaurant, private beach, ATM



Kovalam Beach -  "Paradise of the South"


Orion Beach Resort * - 

B* Public parking nearby needs a reservation and a slightly larger fee $2 day - Beachfront, terrace, views of the lighthouse


Sky Palace Beach Hotel

B* Private parking nearby for a small fee $1 day - garden, terrace, 2 minutes to lighthouse beach


Sangeeth Beach Resort -  

Parking - 3 minutes to Lighthouse beach, terrace, tour desk


The Ayur Villa

B* Parking - Swimming Pool, 50 meters from Lighthouse beach, Restaurant, garden, sun terrace, Bike hire, Spa, Massage, High Tea


Abad Serviced Villas

B* Parking, reservation needed - 50 meters from Lighthouse beach, garden, terrace, sea views



Varkala Beach -


Krishnatheeram Ayur Holy Beach Resorts *** - 

B* Parking - Tropical gardens, Swimming Pool, Ayurvedic Spa, Sun terrace, Restaurant, Sun lounge, library, gift shop, yoga


Varkala Marine Palace

B* Parking - Beachfront, Restaurant, Bar, Garden, Bidet, Full English / Irish breakfast, Sun terrace, Bike hire,


Palan Beach Resort *** -  

B* Parking - good location, sea views


Jicky's Nest ** -  

B* Parking - Balcony, Garden, 2 restaurants, cottages, 2 minute walk to the beach



Alleppey - "The Venice of the East" - Alappuzha


Malayalam Lake Resort

B* Private parking nearby for $2 a day - Restaurant, Garden, every room has a balcony with spectacular lake views, cycling, fishing, sunrise boat trip


Ramada Alleppey ***** - 

B* Secured Parking - 2 swimming pools, fitness, spa and wellness centre, sauna, 2 restaurants, massage parlour, garden, tour desk


Time Square Boutique Hotel & Spa ****

B* Valet Parking - Restaurant, Garden, Terrace, Tour desk


Venice Castle Homestay

Parking - very hospitable and honest and will give you good advice 


Springs Inn

Parking - very cheap, good location, tour desk



Thekkady - A Hill Station

TREE HOUSES - (ERUMADAMS)


Noah's Nest Tree House

B* Parking - only 2 available, Full English / Irish Breakfast, by a river, terrace, fishing, kayaking, walks


Kalpavanan Heritage Resort **** - 

B* Parking - the double room with garden view is pretty much a tree house, set in a Cardamom Plantation, restaurant, BBQ, fireplace, garden, terrace


Greenwoods

Vanya Tree House - back to nature, all inclusive, reached by a drawbridge that goes up when the sun goes down, you would need to park at their resort 4 km away and be transported by 4WD - Not Cheap but a good experience


Carmelia Haven Resort

cheaper but still expensive


Green Ark Boutique Resort

Wood House - the house is up 30 feet in the air, no a/c, waterfall view, open air restaurant, camp fire, open jeep forest safari, Ayurvedic massage, hikes, cheap


RESORTS

Cardamom County by Xandari **** -

B* Parking - Organic garden, Ayurvedic massage centre, Fitness centre, Outdoor pool, Restaurant, Bar, Cottages, Cooking classes, fishing, Outdoor fireplace


Greenwoods Resort ***** - 

B* Parking - Outdoor pool, great tree house cafe, restaurant, surrounded by dense forest, campfire, Tandoor by the pool with cultural performances

Abad Green Forest Thekkady *** - B* Parking - Outdoor pool, in 3 acres of woodland, Ayurvedic Spa, Wellness and Massage, Restaurant


Chrissie's Hotel *** 

B* Parking - Rooftop pool, Restaurant, all rooms have a balcony or terrace facing greenery - cheap, go for a family room


SPLURGE

Hills & Hues ***** - 

B* Parking - Stunning view over the infinity pool, Garden, Terrace, Bidet, Restaurant, Spa and Wellness Centre, BBQ, Outdoor fireplace - Insane views from all areas of the Suites



Munnar -  A Hill Station - "Kashmir of the South"

TREE HOUSES - (ERUMADAMS)


Bamboo Dale

Valet Parking - can book on Hostelworld, good price, eco-friendly, nice patios, restaurant, camp fire, nice views


Ela Ecoland Nature Retreat

B* Parking - a Cardamom and Coffee Plantation, Rustic, has a small river, local women prepare authentic meals for the restaurant, Breakfast and Dinner included, campfire, plantation and waterfall walks, BBQ, fishing, hiking - they also have Luxury Tents and Rock House rooms


Kaivalyam Wellness Retreat **** aka Sitiram Mountain Retreat

B* Parking - includes breakfast, afternoon tea, yoga, cooking session, spice and tea garden walks, tea tasting, meditation and agnihotra - restaurant with pure vegetarian food only, Spa and Wellness Centre - the Chalet's are the Tree Houses - looks like 2 night minimum stay


Tree Top Jungle Jive

B* Parking (Reservation Needed) - Mountain View and Garden View Tree Houses, garden


Nature Zone Jungle resort *** - 

B* Parking - Eco-friendly oasis set in 28 acres 5700 feet above sea level


Dream Catcher Plantation Resort **** - 

B* Parking - Pool


RESORTS


Amberdale Luxury Spa & Hotel *****  - 

B* Parking- great price, stunning views, restaurant, garden, Spa and Wellness Centre, outdoor fireplace, BBQ, evening entertainment


Rivulet Resort **** - 

B* Parking - mountain ,river and jungle views from all of the rooms, stay in a suite, restaurant, garden, BBQ


Gruenberg Plantation Haus *** - 

B* Parking - located inside a tea garden, roof restaurant, garden and terrace


Moselberg Riverside Cottages *** - 

B* Parking - Terrace, mountain and river views, restaurant, cycling,hiking,fishing


Monsoon Grande **** - 

B* Parking - looking out over a tea plantation, restaurant


SPLURGE


Ragamaya Resort & Spa ***** - 

B* Parking - Situated above the Ponmudi Reservoir, sunset view from the infinity pool, stunning views, Ayurvedic Spa, restaurant, outdoor fireplace, BBQ, garden, Sun terrace - not that expensive



Fort Kochi - "The Queen of the Arabian Sea"


The Fort Manor Hotel - Kochi Kerala **** - 

B* Free Private Parking - rooftop terrace, close to restaurants, 5 mins from the main attractions


Dutch Bungalow **** - 

B* Free Parking - garden, terrace, restaurant, outdoor swimming pool, buffet or full English / Irish breakfast included, paid airport shuttle, spa and wellness centre, 24 hour desk, tour desk, close to main attractions


Hotel Bright *** - 

B* Free Parking (reservation required) - ATM, 24 hour desk, tour desk, restaurant, paid airport transfer, minimarket, close to main attactions - rooftop bar / restaurant



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About -

Fly into Chennai, settle in to your hotel in the historic neighbourhood of Mylapore. There is a music festival here in January you might catch. Sort out the tuk tuk, see the sights, eat a Madras Curry then hit the open road.


A short hop down the coast to the first destination to get used to your new vehicle. Take the scenic East Coast road down to a small fishing and surf village strewn with UNESCO world heritage temples and monuments from the Pallava dynasty. On the way stop in at Bay View at Kovalam surf beach for a seafood lunch by the sea. If you didn't come here yesterday. Or maybe breakfast at the Kipling Cafe.


Pondicherry or Puducherry is rare in India because it is a French Colonial town. The French didn't relinquish power until 1952 and some people still speak French here. Stay in the French Quarter and enjoy cafes, patisseries and French restaurants. This seaside town has beautiful promenades and a lively nightlife. The book and it's movie the Life of Pi started here.


Nestled in the Shevaroy Hills is the beautiful little Hill Station of Yercaud. It is one of the least explored Hill Stations in India. The area was cultivated for Tea, Coffee, Oranges, Pepper, Cardamom, Apples and Pears by David Cockburn "the father of Yercaud" between 1820 and 1829.


Stay in the wonderful Grand Palace & Spa Hotel. Have a day to go on a Coffee Plantation tour and see some of the other sights. Leave a bit of time for the stunning pool and bar back at the hotel.


Continue heading south to "Trichy" a city that has been around since the 3rd century BC. It is world famous for its cigars that Winston Churchill was never seen without. It is also in the top 10 of India's cleanest cities. Stay in a hotel with a rooftop bar and restaurant overlooking the amazing Rock Fort Temple that sits atop a massive rock said to be nearly 4 billion years old. Have a free day to see this and some of the other major sites around town.


Madurai is another place that's been around for a while. It was the 4th century when a visiting Greek wrote about it. This time you'll be out of the city in a serene mountaintop resort with beautiful city views of the famous temple and a swimming pool. Have a couple of nights here to relax and take things at an easy pace.


Time to head back to the beach. If you look at a map it's pretty easy to see where Sri Lank was once connected to India at Adam's Bridge and this is where you're headed. Stay on a quiet little beach and eat freshly caught fish out of little beach shacks on the sand. Enjoy getting in the water for some activity. Head over to the Island City to see the holy sites and wash your sins away. See the ghost town, some pink flamingos and the train bridges over the sea.


Just in case you didn't clean off all of your sins there is holy bathing at your next destination too. Spend the night in the beautiful little coastal town that is a popular pilgrim destination. It has a nice beach and is a popular spot for local tourists so there are plenty of hotels and restaurants.


Keep heading south until you can't go south anymore and you'll be at what the British called Cape Comorin. Another popular pilgrim destination with holy waters so keep scrubbing. This is a great spot for sunrises and sunsets. You'll find there seems to be something in the air here and it's an exciting place to be.


Time to leave Tamil Nadu and head into "God's Own Country" - Kerala. first stop is the famous beach resort of Kovalam. On the way have a look at Asia's largest wooden palace and one of the longest and highest aqueducts in South Asia. Stay on the most popular beach (Lighthouse Beach) and enjoy a bit of down time. This place became one of India's tourist hotspots when it became a part of the "Hippy Trail" in the 1970's.


Head straight up to another quite different but just as wonderful beach resort at Varkala. This one has a cliff looming over the beach lined with restaurants, cafes and accommodation. It's a brilliant spot to sit and watch the sun go down. The nightlife is lively too. It's only about an hour and a half down the road so why not stop en-route for a floating lunch at the Veli Lake Tourist Village. Have a look around while you're there.


Further up the coast are the glorious backwaters of Kerala. Stay beside the beautiful lake in Alleppey and organise your houseboat trip. you don't need to book it beforehand as there are plenty of houseboats and you'll get a much better price and see what you're getting on the spot. Don't forget to stock up on booze.

Here is a checklist of things to check before agreeing to a boat.


Head for the hills. You've been at sea level long enough. The jungle and spice centre of Thekkady is beckoning. Stay in a Tree House, in a Jungle Resort or on a Spice / Tea / Coffee Plantation or all of the above. There are Tree Houses at the next place also. Go for a cruise in the Tiger Sanctuary and visit a Spice Plantation. If you are short on time one of the better Spice Plantations is en-route to your next destination.


The road between Thekkady and Munnar is said to be the most scenic in India. Travel via Thekkady - Udumbanchola - Pooppaara - Devikkulam & Munnar


Another Hill Station which is famous for its Tea Plantations. The British East India Company wanted to break the Chinese monopoly on tea growing and this is the result. It has some of the world's highest growing tea and has been producing tea since 1880. It is a very scenic area and there is a good choice of Tree Houses and Resorts to choose from. Kick back and feel the serenity. Head out to the plantations and factory to learn all about tea and how it gets to the stage we see it at in the supermarket. Do a few tastings and become a tea expert.


Alas all to soon the trip is nearly over and you have one more leg to go. Fort Kochi has a lot of history and it goes way back. Vasco da Gama lived (and even died) here! By opening up a sea route to India it spelled the beginning of the end for the Silk Road. This area was the centre of world spice trade.


It is considered to have the finest natural harbour in the world and was once a major trade hub. The French, English, Chinese, Portuguese, Dutch and Jews have all strived for supremacy here which is why it such an exotic fusion of cultures.


Enjoy the sights and there are some nice restaurants here and a bit of nightlife as well. Drive yourself out to the airport and head home. It may be easier to hand the tuk tuk back in town and just get the normal transportation out to the airport.



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History -

The history of South India goes back over 3,000 years. More recent times has seen it split into many kingdoms fighting each other for supremacy. The Europeans started arriving in the 15th century. The British ended up having the most power through the efforts of the British East India Company. The French still retained power in Pondicherry. After independence the area was organised into 4 states. Rice is the diet staple and spices and coconut milk are used extensively.



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See -

Chennai -

Fort Saint George - built by the British East India Company in 1653 - it has a museum with relics of the Colonial days - closed Fridays


Vivekananda House - houses a permanent exhibition of the life of Swami Vivekananda. he was famous for introducing Hinduism to the west and a ground breaking speech he gave in Chicago in 1893.


Mahabalipuram - UNESCO World Heritage Site

Shore Beach temple / Panch Rathas (5 stone chariots from the Mahabharata) - good to see in the afternoon light at sunset


Seashell Museum - Asia's largest with 20,000 shells. It has an aquarium with sharks and other sea creatures.


Mahabalipuram Lighthouse / Krishna's Butterball / Arunja's Penance (may be the world's largest bas relief) / Tiger Cave



Puducherry -

Auroville - an experimental, cashless, spiritual community that welcomes everyone and promotes peace and harmony. Healing, garden, beach (dangerous for swimming), market, cafes and the sci-fi looking meditation centre are some of the drawcards. They have accommodation out here if you really like it.


The Botanical Gardens - which served as the Zoo in The life of Pi - they have a toy train and dancing fountains (on weekends)


Pondicherry Museum - including items from when they used to trade with the Roman Empire. The history of this region goes back 2,000 years



Yercaud -

Emerald Lake - row boats and pedal boats


View Points - Lady's Seat / Arthur's Seat / Pagoda Point / Tipperary Viewpoint - wonderful views of the mountains, town and the lake especially and sunrise and sunset


Killiyur Falls - very picturesque 3,000 foot waterfalls



Tiruchirappalli -

Rock Fort Temple - 400 barefoot steps to the top. Very impressive especially when it is lit up at night.


Teppakulam - Temple Pond at the bottom of the Rock Fort temple bordered by bazaars. You may have heard of Clive of India or seen the curry powder bearing his name in the supermarket. He was based here when he led the Siege of Tiruchirapalli in 1752.


Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple - 73 metres high and covering 156 acres this Hindu Temple dedicated to Vishnu is like a small city within a city. It has shops, restaurants and a rooftop viewpoint. It is a major pilgrimage site for Hindus and only they can go into the inner sanctum.


Tropical Butterfly Conservatory - one of the largest in Asia in over 25 acres of forest on an island in the middle of the Kollidam River. Closed Tuesdays. Open from 10am to 5pm and it's best to go early or late as they rest a lot during the day.


Railway Heritage centre and Museum - a lot of items from the days of the British Raj plus a toy train for joy rides.


The Grand Anicut Dam - one of India's greatest engineering feats. Built 2,000 years ago, modified by the British it diverts the river into numerous streams for irrigation and prevents flooding. And it still works! A bridge has been added and you can drive over the top of it.



Madurai -

Meenakshi Temple - a living temple and popular place to be married. It is one of the most famous temples in Southern India and an important place of Hindu Pilgrimage. Strict dress rules apply - no shoulders or legs exposed for either sex and hair up for the ladies.


Gandhi Memorial Museum - after his visit to Madurai he started wearing the iconic white loin cloth called a dhoti. He did this so he could identify with the poor people he was representing. The blood stained one he was wearing when he was assassinated is one of the items in the museum.



Mandapam / Rameshwaram -

Ramanathaswamy Temple - one of India's holiest shrines and pilgrimage site with a famous 1,200 pillared hall


Dhanushkodi - Ghost town left over from a cyclone in 1964 which devastated the town and took out a train as well. The railway line terminated at a pier from where the ferry to Sri Lanka left from. A chian of limestone shoal go al the way over to Sri Lanka 18 nautical miles away. It is said that you could walk across Adam's Bridge to Sri Lanka before it was destroyed by a cyclone in 1480.


Arichamunai Bird Sanctuary - Pink Flamingos all the way from Australia (maybe) between December and March



Thiruchendur -

Tiruchendur Murugan Temple - famous 2,500 year old temple by the sea side from which the Dutch stole an idol. It was recovered in interesting circumstances. People who visit the temple have a holy dip in the sea then rinse off in the sacred spring. See below. When the Boxing Day tsunami of 2004 arrived it destroyed everything around the temple but didn't touch the temple. There are many eye witnesses who will attest to this.



Kanyakumari -

Vivekananda Rock Memorial - the Swami mentioned in Pondicherry spent 3 days meditating here which transformed him into the leader he became. There is a life size bronze statue of the Swami in a large pavilion and information on his life. It is a 15 minute ferry ride away


On the neighbouring island is a huge statue of the great Tamil poet and philosopher Thiruvalluvar. You can climb up the stairs inside of him. The same ferry comes over here too.


The Gandhi Memorial - his ashes were sent to various parts of India and this was one of them. They have since been put into the sea. There is a hole in the roof where the sun shines through on his birthday to where the ashes were once placed.


Ramayana Darshanam - an illustrated exhibit of the Ramayana which is all about the things you have been seeing along the way


Mayapuri Wonder Wax - local wax museum and 3D paintings inside the Baywatch Waterpark



Kovalam Beach -

Some of the nearby beaches



Varkala Beach -

Some of the other beaches, fishing villages and Edava Lake. There is also a Fort and Lighthouse around here.



Alleppey -

Alleppey Lighthouse - has a small museum and great views of Alleppey



Thekkady -

The Periyar Tiger Sanctuary - by boat, by raft, by jeep, by foot, by night - it has Birdlife, Asian elephants, Sambar deer, Indian bison, Leopards, rare Lion-tailed Macaques, Wild dogs and pigs and .....Bengal TIGERS!!



Munnar -

Tea Museum - a model of a working tea plantation out on Tea Museum Rd

See a Tea Plantation before you go to the factory to see how it's processed. It depends on where you decide to stay as to which one is most feasible. Perhaps try the Pallivasal Tea Garden.


Lockhart Tea Factory - guided tours, tastings and a museum


Blossom International Park - colourful and rare flowers in a park where you can go biking, skating or boating



Fort Kochi - 

Fort Kochi Jail and Museum - built to hold freedom fighters



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Do -

Chennai -

Georgetown Bazaar Walk - with Chennai Magic

Visit Marina Beach and take in the view from Chennai Lighthouse

December to April - is turtle nesting season and in March and April hatchlings are released



Mahabalipuram -

Go for a surf / ride a bike around the sights / Climb the stairs in the Lighthouse



Puducherry -

Go surfing - at beautiful Serenity Beach - boards, lessons and great restaurants available


Diving - crystal clear waters and a wealth of marine life


Paradise Beach - and Chunnambar backwaters boat trip (from Chunnambar Boathouse) - cleanest and most beautiful beach only reachable by boat, food available and they have famous night parties here with DJ's


Sita Cultural Centre - for lessons on cooking, yoga, Ayurveda, dancing and painting.


Pondy Cycle Tour / Immaculate Conception Cathedral / Heritage Walk


Have something to eat at Le Pondy Beach Resort then go for a swim in their impressive pool



Yercaud -

The 32 km loop road - very scenic drive directly north of the town going through villages and past coffee plantations (Gowri Estate is one of the best) and to -

The 150 year old Cauvery Peak Coffee Plantation for a coffee experience tour - 1.5 hours - 8am - 3.30pm - no booking needed - can do in the tuk tuk and a trained guide will come along - goes through the whole process from the growing, roasting etc and has a coffee museum. 

They combine their tours with horse riding if you are into that


ATV, Dirt Bike and Dune Buggies - at Grange Off Road Adventure, 100 acres of stunning woodland to play in as well as all sorts of adventurous activities



Tiruchirappalli -

Wander down Big Bazaar Street to Ghandi Market



Madurai -

Have an Ayurvedic massage by the pool


Maariamman Kovil Teppakulam - take a boat trip around this amazing temple tank, if it's got water in it. Otherwise go and watch the kids play cricket and maybe join in.


Visit the banana market - 16 varieties - and India's largest Jasmine market


Walking tour - "Once upon a time in Madurai", they also run Spice and Food tours


Athisayam Amusement & Water Park - 70 acres of fun and cooling down with a 7D theatre for something truly different. Food available. The largest Water Park in India.



Mandapam / Rameshwaram -

Agnitheertham - wash your sins away in the 23 holy water bodies around the temple. In every one and in the correct order. Get an Ayurvedic Spa treatment from one of the nearby hotels.


Take a train ride over the sea bridges


Water sports - this is the Kite surfing capital of India, plus diving, snorkelling, kayaking and SUP



Thiruchendur -

Swim in the holy sea


Nazhi Kinaru - is a sacred well fed by a freshwater spring 100metres south of the temple that devotees clean themselves after swimming in the sea.



Kanyakumari -

Treveni Sangam - powerful and sacred spot for bathing where the oceans come together - have a look at the Tsunami Monument nearby



Kovalam Beach -

All of the usual water sports + surfing

Climb up the lighthouse (or take the lift) for spectacular views up the coast

Have some Ayurvedic treatments or massage / Yoga



Varkala Beach -

Visit the medicinal mineral springs for bathing and drinking


Surfing - this is one of the best surf spots in India, the biggest waves are before and after the monsoon but are more suited o the pros. In winter December to February they are smaller and perfect for beginners.


Swimming - here will also wash your sins away so feel free to play up


Ayurvedic - massage, cupping, reiki, hot oil in your third eye


Boat trip through the tunnel of Love


Canoe the backwaters / Cooking lessons / Help the fishermen with their nets / Get some Henna 



Alleppey - 

Backwaters Houseboat Trip



Thekkady -

Visit a Spice Plantation - Abraham's Spice Garden is a family run place opened in the early 1950's. The tour takes an hour or more and includes medicinal uses of plants - Green Park is another larger one


Jeep Safari - off road through the forest, past waterfalls and Spice Plantations

Jungle Night Patrol - includes a late night walk in the Periyar Tiger Reserve - with an armed Forest Guard



Munnar -

Visit Eravikulam National Park - to see the friendly, rare and endangered Nilgiri tahr (Alpine Ibex) mountain goats. After they were nearly wiped out by poachers the British tea company that owned the land stepped in and made it a protected sanctuary. 


Normally timid and fleeing humans the tahrs in the tourist zone are totally unafraid and mingle with the tourists allowing themselves to be petted and photographed. They are amazingly sure footed and can climb sheer cliffs that would cause any other animal to plunge to its death. This is a handy way to elude predators such as the leopards in the park who have been preying on them.


Golf (9 Holer) and Squash at the High Range Club


Quad bikes and Zip lines - at Dreamland Fun & Adventure Park along with camel and horse rides, mountain biking and a cable car


Ayurvedic treatments and massages



Fort Kochi -

A Walking Tour - including the Chinese fishing nets / Waterfront Granary Hotel / Jewtown / The International Pepper Exchange (the only place in the world that uses pepper as currency) / Jew Street / The Mattancherry Palace / The Jain temple (at 2.15 pm sharp to see the pigeons) / Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica / Princess Street / Vasco House / The Saint Francis CSI Church / Malabar House (Beer O'clock) and the Dutch Cemetery



====================================================



Eat - 

Vegetarians are well looked after and likely to stay healthier

Chennai - Anglo - Indian Cuisine - centuries old recipes from the British Raj


The Madras Club (1832) and the Madras Gymkhana Club (1884) for their carefully preserved signature dishes from the British Raj. You'll need to dress up if they let you in. Or you could try The Verandah at the Taj Connemara which has an Anglo- Indian buffet on Saturdays. 


Wild Garden Cafe at Amethyst

very popular with ex-pats, all day breakfast, afternoon teas and a mix of other stuff, lovely garden and eating areas.


Mylapore - Mylai Karpagambal Mess - authentic Chennai cuisine / Rayars Mess - off of Arundel St has been going for 70 years, try the Mashed Potato Patties and Filtered coffee / Jannal Kadai - Ponnambala Vathiyar St for vegetable bajjis and other snacks


Adyur - upmarket neighbourhood known for its good food. Chennai Magic does food walking tours through here. They also organise cooking classes.


Madras Curry Cup

for curry in a hurry


Ratna Cafe - 

opened in 1948 for Tiffin, South Indian


Ponnusamy Hotel - famous for its Bahubali Thali Platter with 50 items. Don't attempt this alone.


Royal Sandwich

bizarre but wildly popular combinations at Alwarpet


Burma Bazaar

many Tamils returned to Chennai from Burma due to the political unrest and they brought their cuisine with them.


 Sundari Akka Kadai

down the beach for a seafood feast



Mahabalipuram - Fishing village with fresh seafood

Moonrocks

for seafood


Le Yogi

North Indian, seafood and sea views


Wharf 2.0

beachside restaurant at Raddison Blu


Bob Marley Cafe

on the beach


Siesta

rooftop seating



Puducherry -  Creole Cuisine - Franco - Tamil fusion

Le Cafe

24 hours, waterfront, famous, popular, ice cream, people watching, souvenirs and top of the list


Coromandel Cafe

Whisky teas, coffee, cakes and great food - close to the hotels


Baker Street

French treats plus mains


Crepe in Touch

great for brunch, savoury and sweet crepes plus a souvenir shop


Satsanga

al fresco seating and possibly the best cafe in town


Auroville Bakery and Boulangerie

garden seating and cinnamon rolls


Zuka

a must for chocoholics


Hot Breads

another one of the best, great breakfast and sweet treats


Les Saveurs

for a good French meal


Palais de Mahe

rooftop terrace with fusion dishes - Kasha ki Aasha also rooftop - Lighthouse Rooftop Grill



STREETFOOD

Mutton Samosas - look for the lines opposite the Railway Station before 7pm

Mushroom Bondas - Mission Street, early evening until sold out - also look for mutton rolls


Ranga Pillai St - famous seafood cart opposite Nilgiris Green Field


Gelateria Montecatini Terme

for your afternoon ice cream hit



Yercaud -

Rooftop restaurant at the hotel


Sri Saravana Bhavan Elite

famous local featuring South Indian


Dine-in Cliff

preserving lost recipes


Green Park Restaurant

open air with great views of the lake, mix of cuisines east and west



Tiruchirappalli -

Vasanta Bhavan

for views over the Temple Pond and vegetarian Thali


Lunch at Chellamal Samayal  - 

vegetarian specially cooked in clay pots over fire. Solely run by women and featuring regional dishes from Tamil Nadu served on banana leaves


Thendral

roof garden with BBQ and tandoori


Kannapa Chettinad Restaurant

for high class Chettinad cuisine



Madurai - Food Capital of Tamil Nadu

Moon Deck - outdoor bespoke dining with city light views at the hotel


The Madurai Residency

rooftop restaurant


Murugan Idli Shop

has the best South Indian in town


Mutton Chukka

famous in this region, see if you can keep it down 😂



Mandapam / Rameshwaram -

Thangis Kitchen

seafood


My Home - ice cream nearby - ShakeS & SnackS



Thiruchendur -

Anandham Roof Garden

at the Hotel Udhayam International



Kanyakumari -

Kothu Parotta

chopped fried parotta (layered flatbread) egg and meat in a spicy sauce.


Appam

pancake made with fermented rice batter and coconut milk. Fried on one side and steamed on the other.


Aval

beaten rice mixed with jaggery (Palm sugar) and coconut.


Sea View Restaurant

at the Seashore Hotel, outdoor roof top with views of the 2 islands and their statues



Kovalam Beach -

German Bakery

great for an al fresco brunch


Swiss Cafe

for....Swiss food


Beachfront promenade lined with open air restaurants



Varkala Beach -

The Juice Shack

laid back place with great masalas (seafood and veg)


Mama Kumari's - for a 14 course vegetarian extravaganza


Tibetan Kitchen

Varkala has a large Tibetan population - great views from this wonderful rooftop restaurant. Try all the Tibetan staples and wash it down with some traditional Tibetan butter tea.


Soul Food Cafe

Cliff top garden with platters of tasty treats



Alleppey -

Himalaya Cafe -  

Coffee, chai, pastries and their banana walnut cake


Chakara Restaurant

Rooftop overlooking the Arabian Sea with excellent seafood


Mushroom

Open air restaurant for tandoori and cold beer. Plus a signature Mushroom Soup.



Thekkady -

Ambara

the coffee shop Tree House at Green Woods Resort for the experience alone, great views


French Restaurant & Bakery

great for brunch, or any time


Coffee Garden

rooftop restaurant with good views, ambiance and food


Ebony's Cafe

rooftop place with good food



Munnar -

High Range Club

dress up, step back in time and have a classic meal



Fort Kochi -

Fort  House Restaurant

on an unused pier with a clear ocean view, Keralan cuisine like Prawn and Mango curry and try the stewed figs with vanilla ice cream


1788 Restaurant

at the Old Harbour Hotel, by the pool with BBQ seafood platters

1788 Restaurant - Colonial style and a bar with water views, has some classic dishes from the days of the British Raj like Railway Mutton Curry


Seagull

by the sea with good seafood and drinks


Old Harbour Hotel

beautiful garden restaurant


Rice Boat

with the Arabian Sea lapping at the windows try out their lobster dishes



====================================================



Drink -

Chennai -

Kalathi Rose Milk Shop

For a refreshing drink that has been around for close to a hundred years


Filter coffee is a famous local staple


Chennai is home to Kollywood, local rival to Bollywood. Catch one of the local releases at the Sathyam Cinemas.


Bay 146 - in your hotel (Savera) DJ nights and live music


Sera - The Tapas Bar - very close and has music and dancing on a Friday night



Mahabalipuram -

Plenty of restaurants and shops in the Fisherman colony on Othavadai Street



Puducherry -

The city is not a part of Tamil Nadu so those alcohol taxes do not apply

Le Club / Bamboo Bar / Paradise Lounge / St James Court Beach Bar / Zero House Bar / The Rooftop Bar

Yercaud -

Cloud 9 Bar - at your hotel



Tiruchirappalli -

On the roof - at your hotel



Madurai -

Surya

rooftop restaurant at the Hotel Supreme for iced coffee


Thiramulai Nayak Palace - 

Sound and light show every night


Harvey's Lounge Bar at the hotel



Thiruchendur -

Sri Krishna Cinemas



Kanyakumari -

The hotels have bars



Kovalam Beach -

Rooftop Bar



Varkala Beach -

Cafe del Mar

great place to start the day with a coffee and a mesmerising view


Coffee Temple

for cardamom coffee


Darjeeling Cafe

very lively at night with DJ's and a big range of beers and cocktails


Many places along the cliff have happy hours and offer buy one get one free cocktails


Rock n Roll - have parties and play music late into the night


Garden Bistro / Sunset bar / Rock Cafe - all have live music and are open late



Alleppey -

Indian Coffee House -

running since Colonial times, locally famous for its range of coffees and South Indian dishes


The Harbour Restaurant -

in the Raheem Residency Hotel, relaxed beachside and serves beers during the day


Toddy Shops and Beer Parlours 

or go to the bottle shop and drink at home by the lake and on the houseboat

Many of the restaurants in town serve alcohol



Thekkady -

Cultural Shows

Tribal Dancing, Shadow puppets, Martial arts


Hotel Bar


Jungle Night Patrol



Munnar -

Punarjani Traditional Village

evening cultural show - dance drama with stunning make-up


High Range Club

for the Gentlemen Planters opened as the Gymkhana Club in 1905 - step back in time to the British Raj - strictly formal dress after 7pm



Fort Kochi -

Club 18

has over 38 cocktails a 10,000 watt sound system and an outdoor pool


The XL Bar - cold beer and loud music


The Cochin Fort Hotel - has a beer garden



====================================================



Sunsets -

Chennai -

Head out early to the broken bridge (star of several Kollywood movies) to see the sun come up on the Bay of Bengal. Also good for sunset but don't hang around too long because it's a popular spot for criminals and ghosts.


Marina Beach

like a carnival with amusement rides and food stalls. It is 13 kms long and is the 2nd longest urban beach in the world. (the longest is Praia do Cassino in Brazil) Forget about going for a swim because there are dangerous currents.


Besant Nagar Beach (Bessie)

with cafes, restaurants and dessert shops.


St Thomas Mont

1 hour climb to really see the sunset


Kipling Cafe 

down the ECR.



Mahabalipuram -

The Shore temple

sunrise and sunset



Puducherry -

Stroll down the beachside promenade - no traffic between 6pm - 7.30am


Serenity Beach


Bay of Buddha

happy hour 4pm - 7pm - beer and snacks with a view


Seagulls

sea view balcony



Yercaud -

Sunrise or Sunset from anyone of the viewpoints



Tiruchirappalli -

Sunrise and Sunset at the Rock Fort Temple



Madurai -

Sunrise or Sunset at Samanar Hills

rock caves where Jain monks used to live with drawings and a Lotus Temple



Mandapam / Rameshwaram -

Shri Ram Setu View Point



Thiruchendur -

Down the beach



Kanyakumari -

Some of the best sunrises and sunsets in India. Sunrise looking out to the Thiruvalluvar statue or Sunrise Point and Sunset from Sunset Point viewing tower. At certain times of the year the moon rises as the sun sets. Kumari Amman Temple is another sunset watching spot. The only place in India where you can see the sunrise and sunset.



Kovalam Beach -

Everywhere / The Sky Bar / The Lighthouse / Curry Leaf Restaurant / WWW rooftop bar at The Turtle on the Beach / Edakulla - between Lighthouse and Hawah beaches



Varkala Beach -

Everywhere - crystal clear waters with dolphins swimming around at sunset.


Sky Lounge - good cocktails



Alleppey -

From the houseboat - see the sunset make the Kerala Backwaters even more stunning.


Alleppey Beach - can get a feed and a drink with great sunsets but 

don't swim as there are strong currents


At Alleppey Beach with a lighthouse



Thekkady -

Chellarcovil View Point - 

a picturesque location for a mesmerising sunset


7 am boat trip for an amazing sunrise on Periyar Lake



Munnar -

Pothamedu View Point

for Sunrise or Sunset



Fort Kochi -

At the Chinese fishing nets


Sunset Cruise - past the Chinese fishing nets


Vasco da Gama Square - by the beach



====================================================



Tips -

· Rinse your Thali leaf with bottled water before the food gets piled on it - it's not rude

· If you're looking for something to read why not try Ramayana, translated by Kamala Subramaniam

· Don't swim at Hawah aka Eve Beach at Kovalam as it has strong currents




Safety -

Don't leave your things in the tuk tuk unattended

Always park overnight in secure hotel parking

Don't drive at night / Don't drink and drive / Take a break if you're tired

Drive carefully and focussed / Don't rely on your brakes too much

Take corners slowly / Come down hills slowly

Be ready to get out of the way quickly / Fill up often / Check everything before you head off / Use your horn often

Have Fun


===================================================



Specialties -

Chennai -

Filter Coffee / Sundal - spiced chick pea snack / Ambur Biryani / Chettinad food



Mahabalipuram -

Miniature figures made of granite



Puducherry -

Macarons / Baguettes / Croissants / Sri Venkateshwara Sweets



Tiruchirappalli -

Powdered milk desserts



Madurai -

Chukkumalli Coffee

a medicinal coffee hundreds of years old made of spices, ginger and jaggery (palm sugar)


Jigarthanda

cool drink made of almond, condensed milk, sarsaparilla and ice cream



Mandapam / Rameshwaram -

Fresh fish and seafood



Kanyakumari -

Banana Chips / Cashews



Kovalam Beach -

Seafood



Varkala Beach -

Cardamom Coffee - at Coffee Temple



Alleppey -

Alleppey Fish Curry



Thekkady -

Tea / Coffee / Spices



Munnar -

Cardamom Tea



Fort Kochi -

Banana fritters with Beef roast 


Breudher - a yeasted bread from the Dutch



====================================================



Souvenirs -

Handicrafts from Auroville market


The gift shop at Le Cafe in Pondicherry


Pepper and Gowri Estate Coffee in Yercaud


Trichinopoly Cigars in Trichy


Painted shells (with your name if you want) - Kanyakumari


The Tibetan Market in Varkala for some interesting items


Buy spices in Thekkady which is famous for its plantations


Buy Tea from the plantations in Munnar


Tellicherry and Malabar pepper from the International Pepper Market in Fort Kochi


Curry Powder / A filter coffee maker / Kathakali Masks / Temple Paintings / Ayurvedic Oils


Keep an eye out for something Tuk Tuk related




Extra -

Have a look at India's Toy Trains in Train Trips and you can keep this trip going with Fort Kochi to Fort Bombay in Motorbike Loops and Tuk Tuk Trips


More
Doi Phu Kha Loop

Doi Phu Kha Loop

Itinerary -

Bangkok 3N


Chiang Mai 2N

110km


Lampang - 2N

100km


Phrae - 1N

120km


Nan - 2N

90km


Bo Kluea - 1N

145km


Phu Lang Kha - 1N 

160km


Chiang Rai - 3N

100km


Phayao - 2N 

205km


San Kamphaeng - 1N 

25km


Chiang Mai - 3N


=21N / 8Towns & 1,000 Km



About - 

Fly in and out of Bangkok. 

Stay by the river in the Banglamphu area not far from the famous Khao San Road. Have a look at Bangkok in 'Cities' and work out want what you want to see in the Big Mango.


Fly or overnight train up to Chiang Mai the Rose of the North. Get organised for your bike trip and have a look around and see why so many people fall in love with this place.


All set for the big adventure. Leave Chiang Mai at a time for your journey to coincide with  showtime at the Thai Elephant Conservation Centre just before Lampang on the way past. Check into your rivrside guest house and go exploring.


Next stop along the road is Phrae. While you're here head out to the village that makes the iconic and egalitarian Mo Hom Thai work shirts. Buy a couple for yourself and some for presents and souvenirs. They make good travel shirts. Head to the Night Market in the evening.


On the way to Nan  stop at the Phae Mueang Phi  Forest Park (the Thai Grand Canyon - one of them) 18 km north of Phrae. Organise yourself a white water rafting trip at the local travel agent in Nan. It depends on the time of the year to how much water is flowing. Where to eat. There are a few bars and clubs in town.


An excellent day's riding today as you make your way to the Bo Kluea Resort.  The ride to the resort over Hwy 1081 is a real highlight and one of the best motorcycle roads in Thailand. Enjoy a night at the resort which is a little out of the ordinary and has some great food.


Off to Phu Lang Ka Resort  where you will have an early start for the famous sunrise. They will organise drinks from the local shop if you want and cook dinner for you. These are the sort of places you want to get off the beaten track for.


On the way to Chiang Rai  stop in at Phu Sang hot water waterfall. See the White, Black and Blue temples / house. Play golf at the Santiburi Country Club. Visit Chiang Rai beach. Start the evenings in the Night Bazaar before heading to the nearby bars and then down the road to the clubs.


Phayao is an unknown gem of a place. Go to Wat Tilok Aram, the sunken temple in the middle of the lake  for sunset. Ride out to see the attractions around the town. Eat salted BBQ fish by the lake and then head out to the great live music bars.


A bit longer ride today to the hot springs of San Kamphaeng. Have a treatment, a massage, cook some eggs and relax in the hot springs and spend the night here. 


Check out  "the Handicrafts Highway" on the way back in to Chiang Mai and have a few nights there to wind down before you go home.


====================================================


Skill Level -

Lots of hills but none too steep. If you can handle riding in the towns you'll be able to handle the countryside. Ride within your capabilities.



Highlights -

Elephant Conservation Centre - Elephantine artists


Thai Grand Canyon - and City of Ghosts


Highway 1081 - one of the best motorbike rides in Thailand


Warm water waterfall




When -

October to January is best - you don't want to be riding in the rain


October, November is shoulder season and December, January is peak.


You really don't want to go during burning season which is January to March. It's hard to say when this is but October to December should be before it happens and you're probably okay through to early January. 



Pack -

Always take some wet weather and warm gear. It always rains on one day of the trip. Try to keep it light. Long johns are good. As is a spray jacket, gloves and a Garden bag to keep your pck dry. Octopus straps to hold your pack down.




Budget -

It's actually pretty good as the bikes are cheap, you don't spend much while you're riding and hotels out in the countryside are great value.



Airports

Suvarnabhumi International Airport (BKK)

there is a free shuttle service between here and (DMK) which has the cheap flights and airlines


Don Mueang International Airport (DMK)

Use a taxi to get here


Chiang Mai International Airport (CNX)

Take the official airport taxi into town


Check here for flights.



Starting Town -

Chiang Mai -


Flying from Bangkok is cheap, the overnight train is fun and the bus is the cheapest and least desirable option. The old Don Mueang International Airport (DMK) has the cheap flights.


Spend a couple of days organising the bikes and anything else you may need.


Cooking classes


Massage at the Women's Prison


Eat Khao Soi - Chiang Mai Laksa


Gaeng Hung Lay - Burmese pork curry


Sai Oua - Northern sausage 


Khantoke dinner - and show


Check out the Night Bazaar and drink by the river, Loi Kroh and Nimmanhaemin



Rental -

Chiang Mai is full of rental places. Most with a pretty good reputation. Shop around and definitely take the bike for a test run and check it out thoroughly. Take a photo of any damage to it before you leave.


Make sure you get a decent helmet. the best sort have a flip down clear plastic visor which makes riding in the rain much easier.


For one person a 125cc Honda Wave has plenty of power. If there are 2 of you you might want to get something with a little more power.  A Honda Forza is comfortable for two and has plenty of power.


====================================================



Stay - 

Bangkok 


Chiang Mai 


Lampang


Phrae 


Nan 

Dheveraj Hotel *** -

  • in the city centre

or next door at the

 Pukha Nunfa Hotel **



Bo Klua


Phu Langka


Chiang Rai 


Phayao 

or have a look through this list 

keeping in mind you'll want to be south of  Thakwan Road and close to the lake


San Khampaeng - there are a few resorts around the hotsprings



====================================================



Safety -

Slow is safe. You will encounter many hazards along the way and the slower you are going the more chance you will survive them. Pot holes, animals, mad bus and truck drivers etc. 

A common phrase you will see in an accident story in the papers is "and the driver fled the scene".


On the roads in Asia there is one rule. Smaller things give way to bigger things. At least on a bike you have plenty of room to get out of the way. And you know where you stand in the pecking order - right at the bottom.


Don't let this scare you off what is a fantastic experience. It just means you don't need to rent a big powerful bike and go hell for leather.

When the road is good and clear you can still give it a handful and there is nothing like the feeling of cruising through the bends in the afternoon light with just a subtle shift of your weight. 

The ever reliable 125 has plenty enough power to get you up the steepest hills. And they're incredibly cheap. 

If you want some more comfort or there are 2 on the bike something bigger would be a good idea. The Honda Forza scooter is a good choice.


Short easy days are the way to go. You're on holidays. Don't ride in the dark. Ride within your capabilities, not out towards the ragged edge.



Famous -

Chiang Rai - White Temple - Black House - Blue Temple



History -

Until relatively recently this area was a hot bed of Communist guerrillas. One positive side effect for this trip is the good quality all weather roads that were built to open up the area.



See -

Phrae -  Phae Muang Phi - The City of Ghosts / the Thai Grand Canyon about 18 km north of Phrae on the way to Nan

Significant Temples / Buddha Statues

Thai Grand Canyon

Dragon boat race practice - from July to November

Doi Phu Kha National Park - the Pink Blossoms are out in February / March

Waterfalls / Caves / Chiang Rai Beach

Salt Wells

Handicraft Villages



Do -

Lampang - Horse and Carriage tour


Nan - White water rafting


Chiang Rai - Play Golf at Santiburi a magic course


Chiang Rai - Cooking Class


Chiang Rai - Off Road


Mae On - Hot Spring / Massage / Spa Program



Eat -

Lampang  - 

Some restaurants 


Old Market Street - Weekend Walking Street



Phrae

Come in House


Pu Som Restaurant


Night Markets



Boklua View at the Resort - 

Huan Saphan Bor Klua



Lunch on the way to San Kamphaeng -

Tharnthong Lodges



Sunsets -

Riverside -  Lampang

Boklua View Resort balcony overlooking the Mang "River"

Phu Langka's famous sun rise - cross your fingers for morning mist around the limestone outcrops

Phayao - sunken temple in the lake



Drink -

Chiang Mai - Tap House - Live Music / Verachon Pub and Restaurant


Chiang Rai - Night Bazaar / Jetyod Road / Par Club / Sperm Pub


Phayao music pubs



Tips -

  • Pump up the tyres quite hard. If you put your thumbs in the centre of the tread you should barely be able to push it in.

  • Always lock your bikes together.

  • Maps from GT riders are very handy as is their website

  • Click here for GT Riders

  • All Thai towns have bar and club areas, just ask at reception

  • You can take your own bottle (bought at the local 7-11) into many Thai clubs and just pay for ice and mixers. It can take a fair chunk out of the evenings expenses.



Specialties -

Northern Thai Cuisine


Lampang - 

Deep fried rice cakes drizzled with palm sugar

Deep fried Papaya Salad


Chiang Rai Night Bazaar - Hotpot


Phayao - 

Salt Grilled Fish




Souvenirs -

Lampang Thai Elephant Conservation Centre - Elephant paintings - Elephant Poo Products


Seua Maw Hawm (in Ban Thung Hong near Phrae) - 

blue farmers shirts - popular, ubiquitous and egalitarian


Nan - Communist T-shirts and Caps


Rare Bo Kluea salt



Extra -

Chiang Mai has an International Airport with direct flights to cities in neighbouring countries and as far away as South Korea - see Airports above.


Have a look at the other Motorbike Loops - Thailand, Myanmar, Laos and Singapore in Countries - Loy Krathong, Fire Balloons and Lao New Year in Festivals - Bangkok in Cities and Golfing Nomads and Chiang Mai in Cities.


More
Fort Kochi 2 Fort Bombay

Fort Kochi 2 Fort Bombay

ITINERARY -

Fort Kochi 3N 

Athirapilly Falls 1N 

Palakkad 1N

Ooty Hill Station 4N (+ Coonoor 1N)

Wayanad 3N 

Mahe 1N 

Thottada Beach 3N 

Bekal 1N 

Udupi 3N 

Dhareshwar Beach 1N 

Gokarna  4N 

Palolem Beach 4N 

Vagator Beach 4N 

Tarkarli Beach 2N 

Vijaydurg 1N 

Ganpatipule Beach 1N 

Mahabaleshwar Hill Station 3N 

Murud-Janjira 2N 

Alibag 2N

Matheran 3N 

Mumbai 5N (Fort / Colaba)        


= 53N - 22 Towns & 610 Forts




Skill Level -

Unless you're a tuk tuk driver by profession you probably haven't driven one before. So you'll have to learn on the job after a lesson when you pick it up. In 2006 two English girls bought a tuk tuk in Bangkok and drove it back to England and had a ball.

You can read their story here.


Your main worries are road conditions, weather, other drivers and animals on the road. So drive slowly, never drive at night, don't drink and drive, stay alert and use your horn a lot. Stop and have a rest if you're feeling weary. Learn how the locals navigate traffic and do it the same way. It's best if everyone is on the same page. Also find out local customs. In some countries if the vehicle in front puts on their traffic side indicator it means it's ok to pass. In other countries it means don't pass something is coming. When in doubt or when you can't see the road ahead be patient.




When -

November to February is Winter and the best time to visit. The monsoon rains have eased off and the temperature isn't too hot. If you are doing this in conjunction with the Chennai to Fort Kochi trip start in November and you will have 3 months of good weather to complete this one.


March - May is very hot. June to September is very wet. October - November hot, humid and afternoon rain.




Famous -
  • Tellicherry and Malabar Pepper - from the world's oldest pepper market where peppercorns are still used as currency. TGSEB is officially the highest grade of pepper in the world. It stands for Tellicherry Garbled Special Extra Bold. Tellicherry isn't a type of pepper it's a grading standard.

  • UNESCO Heritage listed - 2 of India's 5 Toy Trains - the steepest track in Asia

  • The Ootacamund Club - play on the table where snooker was invented

  • Wayanad - the home of Pepper

  • Parameswaran's Special Wynad Pepper - Single Estate, Ripened on Vine, Hand Harvested, Sun Dried, Tiny Batches - the world's best

  • Tellicherry - The birthplace of Indian Cricket

  • 2nd largest statue of Lord Shiva in the World

  • Goa's Beaches - North and South

  • Silent Noise Disco - at Palolem Beach

  • Kalavantin Durg - the World's Most Dangerous Fort

  • Dharavi Slum - the largest and most famous slum in Asia with 1 million residents and setting for  Slumdog Millionaire

  • The Gateway of India - the exit gate for the British

  • Bollywood - the World's 2nd largest Film Industry

  • High Tea at the Taj Palace Hotel

  • The Leopold Cafe - star of books and movies

  • Stay at the Taj Palace Hotel

  • Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat - the Largest Laundry in the World

  • UNESCO Heritage Listed Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus - Mumbai railway Station

  • Sanjay Ghandi National Park - the Largest city park in the World

  • Navi Mumbai - the Largest Planned City in the World

  • Antilia - the World's most Expensive house ≈ US$1.5 Billion




Highlights -
  • Athirapilly Falls - "The Niagara Falls of India"

  • More forts than you can point a cannon at

  • Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary - 8th on the list of world biodiversity hotspots

  • Muzhuppilangad Drive-in Beach - the only one in India

  • Bioluminescent plankton at Nirvana Beach

  • A Mountain load of Hill Stations - including the smallest and pedestrian only Matheran and Ooty the "Queen of Hills"

  • Sundowner - bar, sunsets and 3.4 billion year old rocks with good vibes

  • Malvan - India's best coral reef

  • Haji Ali Dargah - 1431 shrine, India's version of Mont Saint-Michel in France

  • Some of India's best beaches - famous ones and secret ones

  • Sunsets - in stunning locations, all the way




Budget -

Low - especially if there are two of you halving the costs. Tuk Tuks are cheap and so is India. You can have a reasonable comfort level without having to spend too much. There are some good SPLURGE options if you want to take a little extra away. It helps to keep the spirits up if you have nice accommodaton so that is probably the main expense.




Pack -

Normally. Don't forget some sun glasses, a waterproof jacket and those thick orange garden bags are handy to waterproof your bag. Something warm wouldn't go astray. A large day pack would be best to take with you. I good quality LED headlamp is always useful. If you have a tuk tuk each there will be more room for your luggage or you could hire surf racks. Take some dress up clothes for the old colonial clubs up in the hill stations.




Visa -

Almost everyone needs a visa for India. A tourist visa will give you plenty of time for this trip which should be between 90 - 180 days.

Click here to check what you need to do.




Flights & Airports - 

Fly into Cochin International Airport (COK) which has direct flights to 31 destinations in 13 countries with some major travel hubs included like London, Singapore and the UAE. (United Arab Emirates)


Fly out of Mumbai Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport (BOM) which has direct flights  to 113 destinations in 37 countries to every continent except South America, Australasia and .... Antarctica.


Check here for flights.




Starting Town -

Fort Kochi  - has a lot of history and it goes way back. Vasco da Gama even lived (and died) here! By opening up a sea route to India it spelled the beginning of the end for the Silk Road. This area was the centre of world spice trade.


It is considered to have the finest natural harbour in the world and was once a major trade hub. The French, English, Chinese, Portuguese, Dutch and Jews have all strived for supremacy here which is why it such an exotic fusion of cultures.


Enjoy the sights and there are some nice restaurants here and a bit of nightlife as well. Pick up your tuk tuk and get organised for the trip of a life time.




Rental -

Unlike motorbikes you don't get a lot of choice with tuk tuks. There is a surcharge for dropping it off in Mumbai.

Click here to go to the website and book online.




Itinerary -

Fort Kochi 3N - 80 km - Athirapilly Falls 1N - 120 km - Palakkad 1N - 140 km -  Ooty Hill Station 4N (+ Coonoor 1N) - 120 km - Wayanad 3N - 110 km - Mahe 1N - 30 km - Thottada Beach 3N - 90 km - Bekal 1N - 130 km -


Udupi 3N - 140 km (En-route - World's 2nd largest Shiva statue in Murudeshwar)  - Dhareshwar Beach 1N - 45 km (Pepper Queeen's bright green Mirjan Fort) - Gokarna  4N - 95 km - Palolem Beach 4N - 120 km (En-route - breakfast at Agonda beach, visit the Indian Naval Aviation Museum and have lunch on Bogmallo beach) -


Vagator Beach 4N - 110 km (En-route - lunch at the clifftop Fort Tiracal Heritage Hotel) - Tarkarli Beach 2N - 85 km - Vijaydurg 1N - 125 km (En-route - see Thibaw Palace where the British locked up the last King of Burma) - Ganpatipule Beach 1N - 192 km - 


Mahabaleshwar Hill Station 3N - 145 km -  Murud-Janjira 2N - 55 km (En-route - Korlai Village built by the Portuguese with a fort and lighthouse) - Alibag 2N - 95 km (En-route - stop in at D Samson's Soda Shop) - Matheran 3N - 95 km - Mumbai 5N (Fort / Colaba)        


= 53N - 22 Towns and 610 Forts😕



=============================================================




Stay - B* = Booking.com 

You should be able to walk in to most hotels and get a room without booking - but if there is something you really like or it's a busy tourist place book it on Booking.com with free cancelation. Also it's worth checking out the specials especially on some of the more expensive hotels. Nice accommodation helps to keep the spirits up so most of these hotels are 3, 4 and 5*****. You can save a lot staying in cheap places but don't forget to treat yourself every now and then when something special comes along. Usually the most  preferred and expensive place is at the top and they get cheaper going down. Specials and what rooms are available can change this along with other reasons.


You've got your own wheels so you'll be able to stay in some more out of the way resorts and not have to worry about public transport.



Fort Kochi - "The Queen of the Arabian Sea"

The Fort Manor Hotel - Kochi Kerala **** -

B* Free Private Parking - rooftop terrace, close to restaurants, 5 mins from the main attractions


Dutch Bungalow **** -

B* Free Parking - garden, terrace, restaurant, outdoor swimming pool, buffet or full English / Irish breakfast included, paid airport shuttle, spa and wellness centre, 24 hour desk, tour desk, close to main attractions


Hotel Bright *** - 

B* Free Parking (reservation required) - ATM, 24 hour desk, tour desk, restaurant, paid airport transfer, minimarket, close to main attactions



Athirappilly - India's Niagara Falls

Athirappilly Rainland Resort ***- 

B* - Parking - 800m from the falls, outdoor swimming pool, garden, terrace, restaurant, waterfall views from the rooftop, vegetarian breakfast, BBQ facilities


Athirappilly On The Rocks

B* - by a river in the forest, parking, lake and river views, garden, exceptional breakfast included



Palakkad -

Udaya Ayervedic Resort

B* - Parking - outdoor pool by the river, fitness centre, spa and wellness centre, garden, terrace, restaurant, massage parlour

Diga Vista resorts - B* - Parking - lake views, BBQ, gardens, no internet



Ooty - formerly Ootacamund which was shortened to Ooty but then renamed  Udhagamandalam also spelled Uthagamandalam but henceforth known as Ooty

The idea is to stay in a Raj era building with some colonial character. It would also be nice to be walking distance from the lake and the town. There is a lot of accommodation to pick from so you could drive around and find something you're happy with and get the right price. Here's a few to have a look at.


Club Mahindra Derby Green **** - 

B* - Parking - set on 5.5 acres od landscaped greenery, restaurant with colonial ambience, Ayurvedic Spa, tour desk, 10 minute walk to the toy train station


British Cliff Club Resort  - 

Parking - relive the aristocratic life in a 150 year old colonial bungalow, spread over 3½ acres, enchanting views, Restaurant, Bonfire, fire places, palatial building, cliff jeep safari, welcome drink, fruit basket in room, complimentary newspapers


Astoria Residency **

B* - Parking - 500m from shops and restaurants, coffee shop, tour desk


Orion Resort Ooty

Parking - country house 4 km from the lake, garden, buffet breakfast, BBQ facilities, hot tub, outdoor fireplace, terrace, views


Colonels Inn

B* - Parking - 4 km from the lake, garden, sun terrace, breakfast, outdoor fireplace


The Red House *** - 

B* - Parking - Colonial style bungalow, next to forest walks, 1km from the lake, bike hire, vegetarian breakfast, next to the Fernhills Palace, evening bonfire, beautiful views, terrace


Kings Cliff ***

B* - Parking - great views, indoor / outdoor restaurant, log fires in all rooms, horse riding, tea estate visit, Jungle Jeep ride, gardens


Sterling Ooty Elk Hill **** - 

B* - Parking - superb view of the city, restaurant, Bar, BBQ, tour desk, Coffee Shop, outdoor fireplace, garden, terrace



Coonoor Hill Station -

Great Windows Resorts ***  - 

awesome views of the Tea Plantations from your room, long walks in the Tea Gardens, Restaurant, Garden, Terrace, Shuttle service, BBQ facilities


Bella Vista Homestay

B* - 1 km from the Railway Station, garden, tour desk, Restaurant, Outdoor fireplace


Tea Nest *** - 

B* - A historic mansion built in the 1800's and set amidst a Tea Plantation, Restaurant, 24 hour desk, guided tour of the tea gardens, tour desk, terrace, very good breakfast included



Wayanad - Land of Paddy Fields

Tea Tours Ripon Heritage Tour

B* - Parking - set amidst the lush tea plantations of Wayanad, outdoor swimming pool, restaurant - (also with brunch, high tea and cocktail hour), sun terrace, 24 hour desk, lounge, buffet or a la carte breakfast included, outdoor fireplace, BBQ, patio, garden, culture class, bike tour, walking tour, Coffee House


Wonder Hill Wayanad Resort

B* - Parking - at the top of a hill with splendid 360 degree views, restaurant, garden, BBQ, culture class, walking tour


Dhanagiri Homestay

B* - Parking - in the middle of a forest and coffee plantation with superb balcony views, cottages and bungalows, Restaurant - with Kerala cuisine + brunch and high tea, BBQ facilities, hiking trails, tour desk, outdoor fireplace, terrace, garden, cooking class, evening entertainment


Green Garden Wayanad Villas

B* - Parking - restaurant, garden, washing machine, hiking, cycling, BBQ, outdoor dining, outdoor fireplace


Upavan Resort **** - 

B* - Parking - surrounded by greenery and mountains, 2 swimming pools, Ayurvedic Spa and Wellness centre, fitness centre, restaurant, outdoor fireplace, garden, patio, Coffee House, Minimart, massage


Jungle Edge Resort **** - 

B* - Parking - stunning views, infinity pool, garden, terrace, restaurant, BBQ, outdoor fireplace, Walking tours, cycling, Spa and Massage


Le Villagio Holiday Apartments ****

B* - Parking - terrace, cycling, swimming pool, restaurant - buffet and a la carte, Coffee House, outdoor fireplace, garden, BBQ


SPLURGE

Pepper Trail ****

B* - Parking - Heritage Suites, Tree Houses and Pool Villas, Infinity Pool, set in a 200 acre coffee and spice plantation, Restaurant, Ayurvedic Spa and Wellness, Guided Plantation Walks, Open Jeep Safaris, cycling, fishing, canoeing, coracle rides, garden, terrace, patio, cooking class, culture class, massage



Mahe - Puducherry

Villa de 1945

B* - Parking - Terrace, French Restaurant, sun terrace


Pearl Mahe

B* - Parking - good value, good location, breakfast included



Thottada Beach -

Chera Rocks Beach Resort 

Ayurvedic resort in amongst the palm trees and on the beachfront, restaurant


The Malabar Beach Resort

Parking - Ayurvedic Spa on the beachfront, restaurant


Club 7 Beach Resort *** - 

B* - Parking - Outdoor dining, beachfront, sun terrace, sea view balconies


Kan Bay Beach Resort

Ayurvedic beach front resort, restaurant


Kizhunna rocks beach house

B* - Parking - restaurant, garden, private beach area, terrace, sea view balconies



Bekal -

KTDC Bekal Beach Camp

on the beach overlooking the fort


Oaks Residency  

B* - Parking for a fee - restaurant, terrace



Udupi -

Paradise Lagoon Spa & Resort *** - LOOKS GREAT

Parking - Great value for money, 2 Open air Restaurants (Bay Side and River Side both with sweeping water views) specialising in seafood and South Indian Coastal cuisine, outdoor infinity pool adjacent to the backwaters facing the sunset, 800m from Delta Beach, can stay on the houseboat, garden, buffet breakfast, outdoor fireplace, picnic area, sun terrace, Ayurvedic Spa and massage, paddle boat and motor boat, fishing deck, 2 km away from a surf beach, Beach Volleyball & Cricket - spread over 3 acres and surrounded on 3 sides by the pristine back waters of Karnataka - if you can afford it book out the houseboat, it's not that much - or at least get a suite with a view of the back waters.



Dhareshwar Beach -

Aura Eco-stay ****

private beach, restaurant, Ayurvedic Spa, 20 cottages, garden, party hall, bonfire, beachside dining



Gokarna -  Cow's Ear

Work out whether you want to stay at Gokarna, Kudle or Om beach then have a look and see what you can get. If you want to book ahead on Booking.com you could try one of these. There are a few high end places at each beach if that's what you are looking for.



Gokarna beach

Namaste Samudra (Gokarna)

Parking - beachfront, restaurant, bar, garden


Deva Sumdra Beach Stay (Gokarna) - 

B* - Parking - beachfront, restaurant, garden, cottages, outdoor fireplace, massage, Spa and Wellness Centre


The Merakai Beach Resort

B* - Parking - beachfront, garden, restaurant, 


Nimmu House

B* - Parking (reservation needed) - beachfront, good location near the market



Kudle beach

Arya Homestay Bougain Villa

B* - beachfront


Uma Garden - beachfront



Om beach

Namaste Cafe

Parking - beachfront, restaurant, bonfire, power backup



Palolem Beach - all bungalow, cottage or beachfront

· Have a look at these or try your luck when you get there


O3 Beach Resort *** - 

B* - Parking (reservation needed) - great part of the beach, beachfront location, restaurant - theme nights - outdoor dining, bar - happy hour, evening entertainment, bike hire, outdoor fireplace, BBQ, garden


Roundcube Beach Bungalows ***

B* - Parking - restaurant, bar - happy hour, beachfront, garden, sea views and balcony, BBQ, sun terrace, snack bar


Cozy Nook Goa

B* - Parking (nearby and fees may apply) - great location by the backwaters, beachfront, Bar and restaurant (wood fire with terracotta pots and tandoor station) at sunset point, fresh air style huts, massage, wellness packages, canoe hire, sun lounges on the beach


Akasa Goa ***- 

B* - Parking - 400 m from the beach, restaurant, bar, outdoor pool, garden, terrace, patio


Club Palolem Resort

B* - Parking - 150 m from the beach, restaurant, Coffee House, bike rental, water sports rental, massage


OR LAKESIDE

Feather Touch Hotel & Resorts

Parking - Spa, Restaurant, Activities, Relaxation



Vagator Beach -

Antares Restaurant & Beach Club

Parking - Beachfront, Restaurant, Swimming Pool - Claim to Fame


Alcove Resort *** - 

B* - Parking - beach front, outdoor pool, pool bar, restaurant, sea views, sun terrace, bike hire, Spa and Wellness centre


Leony Resort Goa *** - 

B* - Parking - Portuguese style cottages in landscaped gardens, outdoor pool, Ayurvedic massage, tour desk, restaurant, bar, Spa and Wellness centre



Tarkarli Beach - There are resorts & hotels all the way down the strip

La Casa Royale

Parking - Outdoor pool, restaurant, shared lounge, garden


Siddhivinayak NX

B* - Parking - restaurant



Vijaydurg -

There are a number of hotels and resorts near the fort though they won't have a lot of stars


Try Hotel Suruchi on the waterfront


or the Hotel Vijaydurg Palace



Ganpatipule Beach - "The Gem of Ratnagiri"

Abhishek Beach Resort & Spa ** - 

Parking (Charges) - outdoor pool, al fresco dining terrace, sea views, restaurant, fitness centre, bar, Japanese Day Spa & Sauna, tour desk, beachfront, massage


Beachfront Villas

B* - Parking - beachfront, balcony, kitchenette, sea views from all rooms, sun terrace, restaurant, BBQ, garden



Mahabaleshwar Hill Station - there is a lot to choose from

Hotel Lake View ***

Parking - restaurant, garden, terrace, outdoor pool


Hotel Lake Paradise ***

B* - Parking - 2 restaurants, 24 hour desk - outdoor swimming pool, BBQ facilities, outdoor fireplace



Murud-Janjira -

Golden Swan Beach Resort

Colonial style architecture, direct access to the beach with views of the palace and the fort, restaurant, Portuguese style beach villas and Mediterranean style cottages, cheaper during the week


Hotel Murud Marina *** - 

B* - Parking - all rooms have balconies and sea views, 2 outdoor swimming pools, restaurant, garden, terrace, 24 hour desk, beachfront



Alibaug - Busy on weekends with people escaping Mumbai

* Look around or maybe book ahead if you're here on the weekend - some of the prices will shock you


Outpost@Alibaug

Parking - Outdoor pool - with pool bar, restaurant, bar - happy hour, garden, shared lounge, fitness centre, 24 hour desk , karaoke, buffet or vegetarian breakfast, Spa and Wellness centre, BBQ, cooking lessons, bike and walking tours, squash, massage


Bohemyan Blue Stay **** - 

B* - Parking - close to the hills and surrounded by rice paddies, glamping tents, garden, outdoor pool, bar - happy hour,  24 hour desk, snack bar, sun terrace, restaurant - themed dinner nights, outdoor fireplace, sun terrace, BBQ, cooking and culture classes, bike and walking tours, open air bath, evening entertainment, Spa lounge, Coffee House - Boheymyan Blue Cafe


Blue Coast Beach Resort

B* - Parking - Glamping, restaurant, breakfast included, close to the beach


Casurina The Beach Resort

Parking - swimming pool, restaurant



Matheran Hill Station - Mothers Wood - Don't come on the weekend

You cannot drive in the town, you have to park up at Dasturi and walk a couple of kilometres into town. These places are about a 4 km walk so you might like to get something on the way. 


The Byke Heritage Pure Veg *** - 

B* - Parking - indoor swimming pool, restaurant, bar / lounge, tennis courts, vegetarian breakfst included


Radha Cottage *** - 

restaurant, 24 hour desk, heritage resort


Gujarat Bhavan Hotel *** - 

Outdoor pool, restaurant, garden



Mumbai - Stay in Colaba the Colonial Heritage District


END OF TRIP SPLURGE


The Taj Mahal Palace ***** 1903 - 

B* - Parking - 10 restaurants, Taj Salon, landscaped pool - the best pool in Mumbai, designer label shops, Royal historical tour of the Palace Wing, Spa and Wellness centre, Fitness centre, bar, Coffee House, Steam room, sun terrace, BBQ - If you haven't seen the movie Hotel Mumbai, watch it after you've stayed here


The Taj Mahal Tower ***** 1972 - 

B* - Parking - on the same site but a completely different building, they share the same facilities and it is a bit cheaper


The Gordon House Hotel Colaba ****

B* - Parking - 600 m away from the Gateway of India, 24 hour desk, Bar, All Stir Fry Restaurant, Cafe Havana & Bar - retro nights


Hotel Harbourview Colaba ***

B* - Parking - Rooftop terrace - Restaurant, Bar, 24 hour desk, Pub crawls, Coffee House


Carlton Hotel Colaba **

B* - Parking - Opposite the Taj Mahal Palace, great location and cheap


Hotel Diplomat Colaba ***

B* - Parking - Indus Cocktail bar & Tandoor



====================================================



About -

This is a big trip and will require a bit of time. If you need to trim it down a lot you could do Fort Kochi to Goa and leave the tuk tuk there. That will make it a month long and you'll save a bit of money on the drop off price. It would be very sad to miss out on what the state of Maharashtra has to offer though.


Fly into Cochin International Airport (COK) and out of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj International Airport (BOM) in Mumbai. Spend around 3 nights in Fort Cochi to have a look around this fascinating town and get organised for this epic road trip. Don't forget to go for a bit of a trial run before you take off just to make sure everything is okay. You could shoot down to Alappuzha and have a look at the Kerala backwaters. You could even take a houseboat out for a couple of days. Have a look at the Tuk Tuk trip "Coromandel 2 Malabar".


The first day's driving is around 80 km so enough to get settled in but not too tiring. You're off to India's version of the Niagara Falls. Many Bollywood movies have been shot on location here so it is popular with the local tourists. If you get here early enough 1 night should be enough time to have a look around. The best time to see the falls is between September to January so you're in luck.


Next day make your way to Palakkad situated where a natural break in the Western Ghats provides access between this state and Tamil Nadu. This has also let in culture and influences over the years. The area is famous for its Ayurvedic retreats so why not stay in one and get a treatment or two. There are a couple of other sights around as well.


"Snooty" Ooty - Queen of Hills was the hill station for Madras back in the day and it still retains its opulent colonial charm which makes it a popular destination for honeymooners. It is also one end of the famous Nilgiri Hill Mountain Railway (Toy Train) which runs from here to Mettupalayam. It's a beautiful area and worth spending a little time. The highlight is the train ride which will entail and overnight stay in another hill station named Coonoor.


Step back in time and visit the colonial relics, have a round of golf, visit the race track and have a game of snooker on the table where the game was invented. Feast on the local specialties like handmade chocolate, cheese and cakes.


Wayanad is famous for its spice, tea and coffee plantations. It is said to be the least populous and most attractive part of Kerala aka "God's Own Country" so that's probably saying something. Stay at a resort and take in the wonderful views and suck that mountain air into your lungs. Time to relax as well as see the local major attractions. Enjoy the refreshing tranquillity because you're heading back to sea level shortly.


Mahe is surrounded by Kerala but is a part of the Union of Puducherry (The smallest district in India) which was once a part of French India until 1954. It has a pleasant riverfront promenade and is a good place to stock up on booze. The Union has tax exemptions on alcohol and there are no restrictions on how much you buy. There are over 70 liquor outlets or "wine shops" as they are known locally. You would think some French food would be on offer but apart from French Fries and ice cream you'll be hard pressed to find anything. It's not exactly the French Quarter in Pondicherry on the east coast but you will find a few reminders around the place and strolling along the riverside walkway you just might imagine yourself in Paris. Just one night here to break up the trip to Thottada Beach.


Only a 30 km drive today so you have plenty of time to look around Thelassery aka Tellicherry on the way through. And there are a few things worth seeing as well as a few must eat places. If you're there long enough you can enjoy a sunset at the drive on beach which is just 6 km away from your beach resort.


Thottada Beach is an emerging star on the tourist horizon so it's a good time to go there. Covered in golden sand, framed by coconut trees and lush green vegetation and finished off with the bright blue warm waters of the Arabian Sea it is every beach lover's dream destination. Spend a few days relaxing in the sun and getting a few Ayurvedic treatments. Head into Kannur for a day's sightseeing for something different.


A short overnight stop in Bekal to break up the distance. Another couple of forts to see and this time you'll be staying just down the road or next door. This trip should have been called Fort 2 Fort 2 Fort via Fort 2 Fort etc...


Udupi is considered the final resting place of Lord Krishna so it is an important pilgrimage centre which is considered one of the holiest in southern India.. There is a famous temple here which is known globally and sees thousands of visitors a year. Stay in a fantastic resort by the river and enjoy the wonderful environment and local beaches at a very leisurely pace.


Long drive today - 140 km and a one night stay in a cottage in an eco-friendly beach resort. En-route you will see the 2nd biggest Shiva statue in the world. If you're lucky you might get dinner and a bonfire by the beach. Bioluminescent plankton is an unusual phenomena where the sea sparkles bright blue at night time. It is a bit like the northern lights and you need to be in the right place at the right time. It is hard to say when and where it will occur. Sometimes it can hang around for weeks, or days or not at all. It can happen at any of Gokarna's beaches but  the most likely are Kumta and Nirvana beaches which are just up the road from here. Three days after the new moon will give you a chance. So if you feel like going for a drive.... It's actually a lot closer from here than from Gokarna.


No need to rush off today as you only have an hour's drive to you next destination. When you're ready make your way to the temple town that is blessed with an abundance of beautiful beaches - Gokarna. The 3 main ones you want to know about are Om, Kudle and Gokarna. The others can't be reached by road. Most travellers skip the main Gokarna beach which is popular with pilgrims. Om beach can get busy with day trippers and on weekends as it has easy road access. Back packers and people wanting to escape the crowds in peak season head to Kudle beach which is less accessible positioned between two cliffs. Have a look in the See section for a description of the beaches.


These beaches can have strong currents so be very careful especially on deserted beaches where there is no one to save you. Don't go in when the sea is rough. See if other people are swimming. Don't go past your waist. Don't dive under waves. If you're not a strong swimmer don't go in. People drown here!!


Some say this is the new Goa. Perhaps they should rename it Goakarna. But unlike Goa these gorgeous beaches are very affordable and uncrowded. Goa is more developed and sophisticated. Luckily you will get to enjoy both of them.


Have a look and see what you like and then find somewhere to stay. There are a few suggestions in the Stay section. Om Beach would be a good place to start looking and then maybe Kudle or Gokarna. The last two are a bit further out. It's a spread out area but with 4 nights you should be able to get around to most of it.


From one beach paradise to another. Next stop Goa. The southern Goan beach of Palolem is 1.5 km of powdery white sand lined with coconut palms and bamboo beach huts, bars and restaurants. There is some great sea food on offer too. It is one of India's best beaches and a lot of ex-pats who live here obviously feel the same way. It is also one of the safest to swim at. Grab some cash on the way in as at the time of writing there are no ATM's on the beach


You'll need a minimum of 4 days to enjoy the sun, surf and sand before heading off to northern Goa for more of the same. Same, same but different. The nightlife action goes up a few notches and so do the crowd numbers, touts and prices.


It's still a great place and you'll have a lot of fun here over 4 nights. It's a good place to have a splurge on some of the more top end eateries and bars. Sunsets are stunning here as well. Scooters are cheap and the beaches are a distance apart so you could hire one for a few days.


Change of scenery coming as you head up the Konkan Coast. From an international tourist destination to a local Indian one where you'll probably be the only foreigner. That's okay, the locals are friendly, the sea food is fresh and it will be a nice change of pace after Goa.


Spend a night in Vijaydurg up the coast and have a look at the Gibraltar of the East. Eat some fresh seafood along the waterfront as well. You'll be covering a few kilometres in the next few days. You'll be able to rest up in comfortable hotels and pamper yourself with a massage or spa treatment.


Next overnighter is at Ganpatipule Beach known as the gem of Ratnagiri. It's one of the nicest beaches on the Kolkan Coast and has activities and attractions to keep you entertained. Seafood and sunsets make a good double act on the way up this western coast.


You'll need an early start today as you tackle the longest leg of the trip - close on 200 km. You are heading for the hills again and a change of scenery. Mahabaleshwar Hill Station served as the summer capital for the Bombay Presidency. It is famous as the origin of five sacred rivers and for the quality of its strawberries and raspberries.


Relax up here and enjoy the fresh air and wonderful scenery for a few days. Eat lots of strawberries and get a bit of excercise.


Back to the coast again for an amazing island fort or two and a great sunset culture at Murud-Janira. Some of the best beaches on the Konkan coast and some delicious fish thalis and other sea food dishes.


A short trip up the coast to Alibaug which is popularly known as mini Goa. These beaches are the ones that people from Mumbai escape to on weekends so there are some top end hotels and restaurants as well as other tourist infrastructure. It is just a ferry ride away. It has become a destination for A-listers who like to escape the city in their luxury villas. Probably best avoided at weekends.


Bene Israeli Jews landed here around 2,200 years ago after fleeing persecution in Palestine. Alibaug means Ali's garden and is said to be named after one of them who was wealthy. In later years the Portuguese, Marathas and British all fought for control with the British finally winning out early in the 19th century.


Time to head for the hills and another toy train ride. Matheran is another weekend getaway for Mumbaikars so I strongly suggest you come here during the week. Which is cheaper, a lot less crowded and better for the Toy Train trip. This is the only Hill Station in India that is pedestrian only. The only vehicle allowed is the ambulance, so horses and rickshaws rule the roads.


All cars have to park up at the Dasturi Car Park which is 3 km from town. There is a small daily fee and don't leave anything laying around as the monkeys will knock it off. There are a lot here and they leave people alone unless they think you have food or are opening something that may have food. Some locals suggest carrying a stick around with you.


There is a shuttle service from nearby Aman Lodge Station into Matheran Toy Train Station. There are a dozen a day and it takes 20 mins. Or you could walk or ride a horse.

You can try and get a room as you walk into town. There is a government tourist hotel just past the car park. There are a few suggestions under STAY which are past the other side of town about 4 km away. There are baggage services as well if you need it.

Matheran is the smallest and one of the most beautiful Hill Stations in India. Enjoy the fresh air, absence of traffic and serenity before you descend into the chaos that is India's largest city - Mumbai.


It might be chaotic but it has a lot to offer including some quiet havens. So to do it any justice you should stay here for a good 4 or 5 days. Look through See and Do to see how many days you think you'll need. If you can afford it a stay at one of the Taj Hotels will finish off the trip nicely.



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History -

The Malabar Coast 

heads south from Goa. It was the epicentre of the spice world and the Portuguese explorer was the first European to find a sea route. This spelled the beginning of the end for the Silk Road. Up until the Europeans arrived the Malabar coast was known as one of the most hospitable trading havens.


The Portuguese built forts up the coast 

and introduced armed commerce. In the 17th century the Dutch and British came along and eventually the British East India Company took control. The French settlement at Mahe became an important centre of pepper trade and they stayed there until 1954.


The Konkan Coast 

goes from Goa up just past Mumbai. It is known for its beautiful beaches, fishing villages and numerous forts. the forts were built around a thousand years ago. The Maratha Empire ruled here from the later 1600's until the British east India Company took over in 1818.


Originally Mumbai was a group of 7 islands. 

The Portuguese gave them different names but they eventually became known as Bombain meaning good bay. The English acquired them as a part of the dowry when Charles II got married. They decided it would make a good base but the problem was the average life expectancy here for an Englishman was 3 years due to malaria. They decided to drain the swamp and connect the islands. The joining of the 7 islands was finally completed in 1838.


Parsis are Zoroastrians 

who fled persecution by Muslims in Persia (Iran) and first came to Gujarit around 1,300 years ago. They learned the local language and stopped eating beef to assimilate with the locals. Bombay came under the control of the British East India Company in 1668 and because of the religious freedom they offered many Parsi settled here. The expansion of the city was mainly due to their abilities and efforts and they became a wealthy community.


Iranis are Zoroastrians who left Persia in the 19th century and set up many cafes in Bombay. In their heyday there were hundreds dotted around the city but sadly today there are only a few dozen of these precious time capsules left. Many of the owners are in their 80's and 90's and not sure who is going to take over from them. Have a look at EAT for Mumbai for a list of some of the more famous ones.



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See -

Fort Kochi -

Fort Kochi Jail and Museum - built to hold freedom fighters


Fort Kochi Fort - don't overdo it too early. There's a lot of forts to come and some of the best ones are at the end. So try not to get Forted out.



Athirapilly Falls -

There are another couple of falls nearby - Vazhachal and Charpa.



Palakkad -

Palakkad Fort  complete with moat - the maiden is used for exhibits and events. Open 8 am - 6 pm.


Rock Garden - in Malampuzha 8 km away



Ooty  - "Queen of Hills" -

Botanical Gardens - 22 hectares of the local flora in 5 sections and  opened in 1848. Snacks available.


Rose Garden - but the best time to see this is between March and June.


Thread Garden - unique handmade and realistic artificial flowers that are best seen anytime.


St Stephens Church - built in 1829 using elephant power, complete with cemetery featuring many of the British living here (or not).


The Tea factory - to see it being processed and packaged.


Wax World - inside an old Raj bungalow with local figures.


Doddabetta View Point - scenic views of the valley, a cafe for a cup of Ooty tea and nearby is the scenic Tea Estate View Point where you can walk the trails through the tea and be astounded by the views. There is also a tea factory, museum, tasting and factory outlet to complete the experience.


The M & N Chocolate Museum - the first one in India. Learn about the chocolate making process both ancient and modern. Learn chocolate history back to 1500 BC when the Mayans used to brew up hot chocolate drinks. The museum is in the Limca book of records for making an 18 metre chocolate bar.


Ooty Homemade Chocolates - Chocolate Factory


Ooty Racecourse - well over 100 years old and one of the most famous in India. Racing season is in summer from April to June.



Wayanad -

Do the viewpoint tour - Lakkidi, Neelimala, Phantom Rock, Vayalada, Kaduvakuzhi and as many again. Pick a logical route from where you end up staying.


Uravu Bamboo Workshop - see what you can do with one of mother nature's masterpieces. Help out a worthy cause and pick up a few souvenirs.



Mahe - Mayyazhi

Government House Museum - at the start of the riverside walkway



Thottada Beach -

Sacred Cave Temple - home to a powerful and invisible yogi.


Dharmadam Island - you can walk from the Drive in beach at low tide



Bekal -

Bekal Fort - Panoramic views of the Malabar coastline. It took15 years to build and was finished in 1660. It is spread over 40 acres so there are plenty of walks available. Closed on Sunday.



Udupi -

The Shri Krishna Matha - famous pilgrimage site


Malpe Beach - sunsets, camel rides, sea walk



Dhareshwar Beach -

En-route see the world's 2nd largest Shiva statue at Murudeshwar. The biggest one is in Nepal.


Head up to Kumta beach to see if there is any Bioluminecent plankton about. 3 days after a new moon is a good time to look.



Gokarna - The Beaches (Avoid swimming in rough seas)

En-route - stop off to have a look at the Mirjan Fort, covered in bright green moss and built by Rani Chennabhairadevi the Pepper Queen who defeated the mighty Portuguese. She ruled for 54 years.


Om Beach - 

The double crescent beaches are similar to part of the sacred Hindu symbol for OM. It has spectacular sunsets, water sports (including Jet Skis, banana boats and parasailing), surfing, hiking, dolphin spotting, plenty of food stalls and cafes.


Kudle Beach - 

Is one of the best most popular beaches for travellers and backpackers. After sunset there is often a hippie flea market followed by a bonfire and drumming. It has the usual water sports, beach volleyball, cricket, hiking, sunsets, it has many food stalls, cafes and restaurants - it is dangerous for swimming


Gokarna Beach -

the main beach, popular with the locals and the most developed and busy, near the temple which is a pilgrimage site. people go for a cleansing dip in the sea before entering the temple.


Half Moon Beach - 

more secluded for those seeking solitude, like hippies. It is free from commercialisation and development. Accommodation and restaurants are set up between November and May. The bamboo huts have no power and food and beer is about 40 % dearer than other places. The currents are strong here and people have drowned. Walking back to Om beach after sunset can be dangerous in the dark. You could get lost or fall off a cliff.


Paradise Beach -  

Aka Full Moon beach. South from Half Moon beach, only has access by foot or boat and it is dangerous for swimming. Once a famous hippy hangout, a local official dismantled all of the shacks and banned any commercial activity on the beach. The broken down shacks are still lying around the place. Camping is the only option and don't try to take the path after dark.


Nirvana Beach - 

And Kumta Beach are places where Bioluminescent plankton appears. It is secluded and doesn't get the crowds of Gokarna beach. There are not many facilities here.



Palolem Beach -

Cotigao Wildlife Centre - exotic flora and protected fauna - they are a bit shy though so you may not get to see a lot of them. What you could see is wild boars, panthers, hyenas, sloth bears, flying squirrels, Indian pangolins, antelopes, Malabar pit vipers, woodpeckers, mouse deer, flying lizards, golden back gliding snakes, porcupines and Malabar tree toads. There are 8 hiking trails, 6 treetop watchtowers and an educational centre. Also there is an observation deck in the foliage of a 25 m tree looking down on the watering hole where the animals come to drink at dawn and dusk. Open 7 am - 5.30 pm every day.



Vagator Beach -

En-route - have breakfast in Agonda beach and lunch in Bogmalo beach (well known for its Goan specialties). Have a look at the Indian Naval Aviation Museum first.



Tarkarli Beach -

En-route - stop in for a lazy lunch at Fort Tiracol Heritage Hotel (book ahead - great sea food and al fresco dining on the terrace with mesmerising sea views)


Sindughurg Fort - on its own island 15 minutes away by boat - it occupies 48 acres but unfortunately it has a lot of rubbish laying around


Sunday mornings - make the effort if you're here to get up and watch the entire village participate in traditional net fishing off the beach at Malvan



Vijaydurg -

Vijaydurg - aka Fort Victor - sea fort that was the maritime headquarters of the Maratha Navy, it was called the Eastern Gibraltar by the British - you can take a boat ride around to look at the outside walls - World Helium day is celebrated at the Fort!!



Ganpatipule -

En-route - See Thibaw Palace - closed Mondays - open 10 am - 5 pm - interesting story behind this one which you can read about in - The King in Exile - The Fall of the Royal Family in Burma by Sudah Shah / there is some more fort stuff nearby -  if you have an unnatural interest in forts. There is a good one coming up so save some room for it.


Ganpatipule Temple - is 400 years old and receives thousands of pilgrims every year seeking the blessings of Lord Ganesha


Ratnadurga or Bhagawati Fort - 120 acres and built in the 12th century - surrounded by the sea on 3 sides and very picturesque



Mahabaleshwar Hill Station -

Mapro Garden - a large strawberry plantation and host of the annual Strawberry Festival - it has a Chocolate Factory and Strawberry products like ice cream, jam, syrup and juice.


Viewpoints - Wilson Point  (Sunrise Point) / Parsi Point (great views of the dam and another fine picnic spot) / Bombay Point (Sunset Point) / Kate's Point /  Arthur's Seat (is made up of 6 viewpoints) / Elephant's Head Point (good for a picnic) / Helen's Point (incredible vistas including waterfalls) / Babington Point  (for bird watching and views of Chinaman's Falls) / Carnac Point


Pratapgarh Fort - this one's very scenic on top of a hill with amazing views.


Waterfalls - Lingmala and Chinaman's - take a picnic lunch.


Wax Museum - personalities from around the world.



Murud-Janjira -

Padmadurg (fort) - is another island fort further out to sea. You can visit but you need to get permission from the Navy. It makes a good setting for the sunset from Murud beach.



Alibaug -

En-route - stop in at the Portuguese village of Korlai, you can climb up to the ruins of their old fort and see the light house


If you are sick of the sight of forts and never ever want to see another one you'll be glad to hear there is only 3 in this town. The Kolaba Fort is accessible by foot at low tide and once had a 5 storey palace inside of it. You probably won't be surprised to learn that this state alone is home to over 350 forts.


The Native Biodiversity Garden - 17 themed sections on medicinal, spices, butterflies, wetlands etc. Open 9 am - 1 pm and 2 pm - 4.30 pm every day.



Matheran Hill Station -

En-route stop in at D Samson's Soda Shop - established in 1938 by Daniel Samson Digodkar a descendant of the Bene Israeli Jews who came out 2,200 years ago to flee oppression in Palestine. His nephew loved the sodas and runs the shop today. It has ice cream sodas as well as flavours like Ginger and Lemon, Kala Katta (Blackberry combination) and Masala Soda (Spice mix).


There are 38 designated lookout points around the place - you can do a walking tour of the closer ones

Louisa Point and Echo Point - amazing views, zip lines, echoes, snacks and refreshments


Scenic Charlotte Lake - has birdlife, a temple, a waterfall during the monsoon, great sunsets and a good place for a picnic.


King George Point - 10 mins from Charlotte Lake, many people say it's a sin to come to Matheran and not see this majestic view of the lake and falls surrounded by 3 hills, also good for sunset


9D Cinema in town - all the features of a 7D theatre with 2 more. A frenzy of sensations.



Mumbai -

The Gateway of India - opened in 1924 it was built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary in 1911. The last British troops left through here in 1947 marking the end of British rule in India. The government didn't have enough money for the monument and that is why the approach road was never built. It's a popular tourist attraction and has numerous vendors selling all manner of things.


Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus - aka CST, formerly known as Victoria Terminus and it was built to commemorate her Golden Jubilee - the iconic Mumbai Railway Station is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It featured in the movie Slumdog Millionaire. Quite a sight at rush hour.


Haji Ali Dargah - built in 1431 by a wealthy Muslim merchant and Sufi saint who is entombed here. Situated in the sea it is only accessible at low tide by a 500 m walkway.


Chor Bazaar / Thieves market - so called because some of Queen Victoria's belongings went missing from one of her ships and yhey were found for sale at the market. It is over 150 years old and has some peculiar items for sale.


Khotachiwadi Village - colourful narrow streets and Portuguese architecture lure tourists to this peaceful haven for a break from Mumbai's noisy streets.


Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya - formerly known as the Prince of Wales Museum of Western India is one of the most beautiful buildings in the city and holds many of India's treasures. Helpfully it has English translations.


Mani Bhavan - see where Ghandi lived for 17 years and directed his campaign against the British from - the rooms where he lived and worked, rare photos, films and some of his iconic possessions


Acworth Leprosy Museum - located in the Leprosy Hospital - learn the truth about this controversial illness - if you dare!!


Elephanta Caves on Elephanta Island - UNESCO World Heritage Listed cave temples dedicated to Lord Shiva in Mumbai Harbour. Reached by a ferry ride from the Gateway of India. It is also a popular trekking destination. This island has of all things a fort and a Toy Train. The train will transport you along the long pier to the start of the cave walk.


Antilia (named after a mythical island in the Atlantic Ocean) - the world's most expensive private house (not counting Buckingham Palace) owned by Mumbai billionaire and India's richest man Mukesh Ambani. He lives here with his wife and 3 kids. The 27 storey building is located on Altamount Rd Cumballa Hill in South Mumbai. These are note regular floors though and in reality it is equal to a 40 storey building. There are 600 staff living here. it is designed to survive an earthquake of 8 on the Richter Scale. It has 3 helipads and an air traffic control system. It has 6 levels of parking which can accommodate 168 cars. It has a snow room.



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Do -

Fort Kochi -

A Walking Tour - including the Chinese fishing nets / Waterfront Granary Hotel / Jewtown / The International Pepper Exchange (the only place in the world that uses pepper as currency) / Jew Street / The Mattancherry Palace / The Jain temple (at 2.15 pm sharp to see the pigeons) / Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica / Princess Street / Vasco House / The Saint Francis CSI Church / Malabar House (Beer O'clock) and the Dutch Cemetery. Just feed the stops into Maps.me and use your phone to navigate or find the on the Marker Map. ⬆️



Athirapilly Falls -

Walk around the falls

If you wander through the gardens at Thumboormuzhi Dam you will come across over 148 diverse species of butterflies.



Palakkad -

Have an Ayurvedic treatment and massage


Fantasy Park - water park if you feel like cooling off


Kava Island - for nature walks, 12 km away



"Snooty Ooty " -

Boathouse at the lake - for paddle boats, row boats and motor boats. Also a 7D cinema at the lake, mini train, horror house, house of mirrors and other entertainments. The lake was man made in 1824.


Trout fishing at Avalanche Lake / Hang Gliding


Play Golf at the Ooty Golf Club - one of the finest natural golf courses in the world + the altitude adds 10 yards to your shots.😃 If you see the Ooty Hunt Club (the only one surviving outside England and Ireland) riding along on their horses they have right of way and you'll need to call them through. Have a meal and a few drinks at the Ootacamund Gymkhana Club after your round.


Do a day trip to see the other Hill Stations of Kotagiri and Coonoor. In Kotagiri see the memorial for the man who started it all, John Sullivan. Then head to the amazing cake shops near Johnstone Circle for some morning tea. On the road from Coonoor to Ooty stop in at the famous Culinarium restaurant. Breathtaking views matched with delicious food. Pot pies, Chicken and mushroom pie, lasagne, goulash and salted caramel ice cream.


Nilgiri Mountain Railway - take the Toy Train to Mettupalayam . Built by the Brits in 1908 and still using steam locomotives sometimes or a diesel for more power. The section between Ooty and Coonoor is steeper and this is where they usually use a diesel. Many Bollywood movies have been shot on the train which travels through stunning mountain scenery and some of Tamil Nadu's famous hill stations. It is 46 km long, has many tunnels and hundreds of bridges. There are 1st, 2nd and General Class tickets which you can book online. It's very popular so it will pay to book ahead. See if you can get on the Vista Dome Coach. There is no catering or toilets on the train. You can buy food at the stations and the train does stop for toilet breaks.


Get 1st Class seats for more leg room. Take some food and water. Catch the 2 pm train from Ooty and arrive in Mettupalayam at 5.30 pm. Have a one way taxi organised to meet you and drive you back to Coonoor. Have a quick look in the Niligiri Mountain Railway Museum (adjacent to the railway station before you leave). You should have almost enough daylight to get there and not have to travel at night.


Spend the next day looking around Coonoor then catch the 4 pm train which will arrive back in Ooty at 5.15pm. Spend the day relaxing, looking aroundor have a round of golf at the Wellington Gymkhana Club. Founded in 1873 this scenic course is one of the oldest in Southern India. Check out the many bakeries in town. The famous Crown Bakery dates back to 1880. If you love your plants there is another botanical garden here called Sim's Park.



Coonoor -

Horse riding / Trekking



Wayanad -

Visit a Plantation - Wayanad has some of the world's best spices, tea and coffee - see your hotel tour desk to find out the best place nearby - main crops in the region include coffee, cocoa, pepper, ginger, plantain, vanilla, tumeric, cardamom, beetle nut, tea, cassava and cinnamon. The best pepper comes from a unique variety called the Wayanadan which grows mainly in the Manathavady region. This variety is almost extinct and there are efforts being made to revive its rightful place in the pepper world.


A day trip to see the 2 major attractions -


1. The Edakkal Caves - housing petroglyphs believed to be over 8,000 years old - they are the only Stone age drawings in India. Closed on Mondays.


2. Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary - 350 square kilometres of magical landscapes and sanctuary for endangered species. Jeep Safaris 7 am - 10 am and 3 pm - 5 pm. It has the world's largest recorded population of Asian elephants and Tigers. These two along with the Vulture are considered the Flagship species at the sanctuary. Other species include Leopards, Jungle cats, Leopard cats, Spotted deer, Sambar deer, Gaur, Sloth bear, Wild dog, Wild boar, Indian pangolin, Stripe-necked mongoose and a host of other mammals. Also known as the Mathunga Wildlife Sanctuary.


Chembra Peak Trek - a 3 km hike through tea plantations, thick forests and lush grasslands to the top of Wayanads highest peak. A stunning walk that is well rewarded when you reach the top. Stop at the perfect heart shaped lake if you want to cut it short. It is a couple of hours to the lake and then another hour and a half to the peak. Most people start at around 7 am. Take lots of water and some food.



Mahe -

Go for a wander along the riverside walkway

Stock up on booze



Thottada Beach -

Enroute - only a short drive so plenty of time to check out the city of the three C's - Thelassery aka Tellicherry. It was the first place the British played cricket, the first place they made cakes and the Indian Circus has its origins here as well.


The cakes were baked in Mambally's Royal Biscuit Factory which is still open today and would be a good place to pick up some sweet treats. You could eat them at Overbury's Folly a nearby sea side park with an open air coffee shop and a story. They baked India's first Christmas cake in 1883. Also nearby is the Thelassery Fort which is near the Municipal Cricket Stadium, the birthplace of Indian Cricket. Unfortunately the Circus Training Academy has been closed down. The famous Paris Restaurant is known for having the best Thelassery Biriyani in town. Across the road is the Firoz Cool Bar where you can finish off with something sweet.


Further on up the road is the Muzhuppilangad Drive on Beach. Take the Tuk Tuk out for a spin on the 5 kms of firm sand. At sunset it gets busy with people and vendors. You're only 6 kms away from your resort.


Go boating and fishing on the Thottada River.


Head into Kunnar to see the sights - (Marco Polo was here a while ago)


· Peralasssery - the massive temple pond is the visual attraction at this famous pilgrimage site.


· Dinesh Beedi Factory - one of the biggest and best beedi factories around - visitors welcome


· Fort St Angelo - one of the oldest Portuguese settlements built in 1505 - you can climb up to the top for views along the coast


· Arakkal Museum - in part of the old Royal Palace of the Arakkal family whose dynasty dates back to the 1200's.


Have lunch at the Hotel Odens who specialise in Malabar Cuisine. It is near the market. For western food try Sahib's Grill. - Kunnar is a good place to buy cashews and banana chips.



Bekal -

Pallikere Beach - 1 km south of the fort, with great views of the fort. A popular spot.


Kodi Cliffs and Kappil beach - for the views and scenery



Udupi -

Enroute - have a look at the Chandragiri Fort in Kasaragod, a huge 17th century fort with an eventful history. Stop in at Kaup Beach to climb the Light house

White water rafting - on the Sita River

Visit St Mary's Island - just like Vasco de Gama did in 1948 when he named it / them

Go for a surf / Have a few Ayurvedic treatments and massages



Dhareshwar Beach -

Enroute - India's 2nd largest Shiva statue at Murdeshwar



Gokarna -

Beach crawl - go for a hike and spend a bit of time at all the beaches

Learn how to surf - at the surf school on Gokarna beach


Nirvana Beach - head over at night time to see the blue glowing plankton

This is a major pilgrimage centre so if you're into temples there are plenty around including the major one by Gokarna beach - Mahabaleshwar Temple with its 6 foot Shiva Lingham. This temple is considered as important as the one in the holy city of Varanasi. This isn't the only bioluminescent beach you will be going past. Have a look at the link for a few more.


Yoga is popular here and there are Ayurvedic Spas in most of the resorts if you're looking for a massage or treatment

Go for a stroll around the ancient streets of Gokarna Town with its colourful murals and around the lake

Ride a camel along the beach



Palolem Beach -

Go dolphin spotting - by sail boat

Visit Monkey Island (Canacona Island) - walk across at low tide or take a boat - good luck!!


Goa Jungle Adventure - go canyoning or trekking

Go for a spin up to popular Agonda beach or pop in for breakfast when you are heading up the coast


Saturday Flea Market - in Palolem (and others)


Lots of massage places along the beach and top end Ayurvedic Spas - reflexology, Reiki, energy healing - ask locals for advice on where to go as there are a few dodgy (gropey) ones around


Play Golf at the beach and river front LaLit Golf & Spa Resort - take your bathers for the best swimming pool at Palolem


Scuba Diving


Boating and kayaking on the backwaters or kayak along the coastline to the next beach or so and maybe say hello to a few dolphins

Hire a scooter and go for a ride to see the neighbouring beaches


Eagle feeding - by boat in the backwaters, get up close and personal

North Indian and Goan Cooking Classes - with Chef Rahul, find him behind Cuba Beach Bungalows 11.30 am - 2.30 pm and 6 pm - 9 pm


Join the Circus - Bliss Circus is a local training space in the beachside jungle with monkeys and all sorts of circus artists who come here for the winter. They offer classes and workshops as well as putting shows together and performing them. They even have a vegetarian restaurant.

Lots of Yoga



Vagator Beach -

Friday Night Bazaar at Hill Top


Saturday Flea Market - run by the Germans also with food stalls


Cricket on the beach


Rent a scooter for a bit of fun to get around and have a look around



Tarkarli Beach -

Scuba Diving and snorkelling - Malvan has one of the best coral reefs in India and is famous for its clear waters


Water sports - on Tsunami Island (formed by the 2004 tsunami)


Dolphin spotting 



Vijaydurg -

Visit the cashew factory to see how they are processed



Ganpatipule Beach -

The beach is one of the best on the Konkan coast and has water sports and boat and camel rides

Visit the Prachin Konkan Museum - 3 acre open air museum depicting life in Konkan in ancient times and ... (this will excite you) miniature replicas of the forts along the coast



Mahabaleshwar Hill Station -

Venna Lake - boating or horse riding around the manmade lake


Panchgani - the "Land of Five Hills" was developed as a retirement place during the British Raj - do a day trip to this nearby fellow Hill Station - things to see include the Table Land a volcanic plateau, the highest in Asia outside of Tibet with spectacular views of the town - you can do horse riding or even paragliding if you're game / The Rajpuri caves surrounded by sacred pools that free bathers of diseases, sins and evil / Sydney and Parsi viewpoints / Devrai Art Village - pick up some nice souvenirs/ on Wednesdays there is the weekly Buddha Bazaar with locally grown produce and products / have lunch at the Rainforest Restaurant at Parsi Point for delicious food with amazing views


The Club Mahabaleshwar - play golf on the old course from the British Raj era. 11 holes with 10 browns and 1 green. Follow the dark and narrow descent to the famed Chinaman hole. Have a look around the club while you're here. Back in 1881 it was decided to turn the old army sanitarium blocks into the Club Mahabaleshwar making it one of the oldest 30 still remaining British clibs still operating in India. Have breakfast in the Breakfast Room or a meal in the dining room later. You should be able to get temporary membership to play golf and they have dress rules.



Murud-Janjira -

Murud Janira Fort - is the number one ticket in this town, this island fort is reached by sail boat, they will give you 45 minutes to look around the 9 acre fort. If you want longer you'll need to negotiate it with the boatman who you can hire as your guide. It was built by slaves from Africa and completed in 1571. The fort was never successfully invaded.



Alibaug -

All of the beaches around have water sports - Nagaon for parasailing, beach shacks cooking up seafood / Alibaug for jet ski, banana boat and sea kayaking, plenty of food stalls and a view of the fort / Mandwa for quadbiking



Matheran Hill Station -

Matheran - Neral Toy Train - it is 10 km by road and 20 km by rail. The train trip takes around 2 hours and has 281 zig zag turns. It was constructed in 1907 and has UNESCO World Heritage status. The monsoon rains often wash away sections of the track so hopefully the line is operational while you're there.


There are 5 stations on the line and a tunnel called "One Kiss Tunnel". Food vendors walk through the train. The train holds 100 people, has one 1st class carriage and three 2nd class carriages. There are also shuttle services between the carpark at Dasturi (Aman Lodge Station) into Matheran Station. There are 4 trains a day between Neral and Matheran. Leaving Neral at 7.50 am and 9.50 am and leaving Matheran at 7.20 am and 9.55 am. It takes 2 hours from Neral and a bit shorter the other way.


There are some excellent treks around including some along the railway line. For the very fit and brave there is the incredibly steep Kalavantin Fort which has claimed a few lives over the years and is known as the most dangerous fort in the world. You were hoping never to see another fort again so be careful this could be your last. Don't even attempt it if it's wet.



Mumbai -

Sanjay Ghandi National Park - the world's biggest city park - it has a tiger population, 2,000 year old Buddhist caves, is 104 km squared in size, has 20 lions - (safari), leopards, deer and Hanuman langurs, a Jain temple, a 2.5 km toy train ride, walking trails and a couple of lakes - (boating).


A boat cruise - around the harbour - catch the ferry to Elephanta Island from the Gateway of India


Open top double decker bus tour - that starts at the CSMVS (formerly the Prince of Wales Museum) and includes 16 tourist attractions

Click here for details of the bus tour


Wankhede Stadium - go to the cricket if it's on


Have a round of golf at the Bombay Presidency Golf Club established in 1927


Navi Mumbai - head over for the day to see the world's largest planned city


TOURS -

Bollywood - do a tour or even get a part as an extra. Film City is one of the largest film Studios in the world. Bollywood is second only to Hollywood which is the world's largest film industry. There is a 2 hour bus tour through Film City. There is also the Live Show Tour which takes you to the set of a TV series where you can interact with the actors.

Click here for Bollywood tour information


Dharavi Slum Tour - very enlightening and pick up a few souvenirs while supporting local workers. Where Slumdog Millionaire was shot.


Dhobi Wallas and Dabbawalas - see the largest laundry on earth and the army of people who deliver hot tiffin lunch boxes to office workers (around 80 million a year). Somehow everyone gets the right clothes and the right lunch always on time. They also pick the lunch boxes back up and return them home. The system first began in 1890 and most of the Dabbawalas come from the same community and are illiterate. There are numerous tours that combine these with other activities. It depends on how many hours you want to be on it. Look around for something that suits your interests.

Click here for the official Dabbawala tour


Shantaram - visits locations from the book

Click here for tour information



====================================================



Eat -

Fort Kochi -

Fort House Restaurant

on an unused pier with a clear ocean view, Keralan cuisine like Prawn and Mango curry and try the stewed figs with vanilla ice cream


Brunton Boatyard

Colonial style and a bar with water views, has some classic dishes from the days of the British Raj


Seagull

by the sea with good seafood and drinks


Old Harbour Hotel

beautiful garden restaurant - 1788 Restaurant at the Old Harbour Hotel, by the pool with BBQ seafood platters


Rice Boat

with the Arabian Sea lapping at the windows try out their lobster dishes



Athirappilly Falls -

Rainforest - fantastic views of the waterfall



Palakkad -

It has its own unique cuisine which is a blend of the best traditions in Tamil and Keralan cuisines



Ooty Hill Station - famous for its bakeries and homemade chocolates

Visit the Fernhills Royal Palace for a look around and have a meal while you are there


Angaara - tandoori and curries, indoor / outdoor seating


Kebabs - at Kebab Corner / Shinkows - for Chinese / Nahar - for Thali


Quality - for Punjabi food (Butter chicken & naan)


Hyderabad Biryani House - forryani - try the chicken tikka biryani


Kingstar - for homemade chocolates in some interesting flavours like fig, blackcurrant and mango, they also make a mean chocolate fudge


Momo House - for ....Momos, spicy chicken and corn and cheese


Place to Bee - Italian inside a Bee Museum featuring wild honey



Wayanad -

Fish Moilee - light curry cooked in coconut milk

Nadan Beef Fry - good with a beer

Karimeen Pollichathu - marinated fish cooked in banana leaf

Malabar Duck Roast - duck is a staple delicacy in this region

Malabar Biryani - also called Thalassery Biryani

Bamboo Biryani - a famous Wayanad dish cooked in bamboo


Try the Cafe Riders Lounge - if you're hanging out for some western food or looking for a good cafe


On the day you go to the Wildlife Sanctuary have lunch (either before or after) at the Wilton Hotel, one of the most famous in Kerala.



Mahe -

French Empire Restaurant

for good Indian food and good ambiance by the sea front. No French food unfortunately but it does have an ice cream parlour.



Thottada Beach -

Eat in the hotels and resorts restaurants

If you want an authentic Malabar Coffee and a good breakfast head into town to the Indian Coffee House



Bekal -

Malabar Cuisine

tasty and mildly spiced, influenced by Arabian, Zamorin and Chirakkal styles



Udupi -

Udupi Cuisine

is strictly vegetarian and is well known. It is basically temple food that was designed to be food for the gods.


Eat at the resort for some of the best food and views around



Dhareshwar Beach -

Seafood and Continental at the resort restaurant



Gokarna -

The further south you go the fewer eateries there are


Dolphin Cafe - great spot overlooking Om Beach


Namaste Cafe - good for sea views and seafood at Om beach


The Rock Namaste Cafe - seafood lasagne at Kudle beach


The White Elephant - good views and food on Kudle beach plus they have rooms



Palolem Beach -

Walk down to Patnem Beach for a look and a seafood lunch - some of the restaurants to look for include The Home Resort / Namaste Beach Huts and Restaurant


Zest - for vegetarian treats - smoothies, fritters and Buddha Bowls


Sumaya - for authentic Goan dishes


Cafe Inn

Full English breakfasts and mezze platters


Little World - 

Hidden gem - famous for their chai and fruit shakes - outdoor dining - Tiffin


German Bakery

Much beloved and a good choice for breakfast or lunch


Fern's by Kate's

Authentic Goan dishes like Goan sausage and fish curry rice



Vagator Beach -

Goan Cuisine 

Has been 500 years in the making but it is dissappearing. Ever since the Portuguese arrived seeking out spices from the exotic East. It is a blend of the two cultures that has been developed over the many years.


Thalassa

Very popular Greek food with a stunning view - you'll need to book - also a great place to be at sunset


Mango Tree Bar & Cafe

Popular and lively place to hang out and people watch. They have a bar and are open late.


Bean Me Up

Vegetarian with a big range of dishes from pizza to ice cream


Baba Au Rhum

French bakery in a garden with baguettes, croissants, pasta and steak


Antares

One of two projects Australian Masterchef contestant Sarah Todd is involved in with a local restaurateur. The other one is in Mumbai called The Wine Rack. This one is a resort with a restaurant, Beach Club and various types of accommodation. The cuisine is Australian themed with a touch of Asian. It's not cheap but is a pleasant place to sit with some fantastic views and good food.


German Bakery - in Anjuna - long time favourite good for breakfast


Cream Choc (Gelati) - for your afternoon ice cream fix


Goa's Ark - in Anjuna - Middle Eastern and Mediterranean


Bomra's - in Candolim - modern Burmese


Tin Tin in Tibet - for momos and seafood


Britto's - in Baga - for Sunday Roasts and live music in the evenings



Tarkarli Beach -

Malvani Cuisine - features fiery sea food curries and is very similar to Goan and Keralan / Shark Curry is very popular / Malvani Mutton Curry / Bombay Duck Fry / Cucumber Cake / Prawn curry


Revankar's Family Homestay - for homemade Malvani cuisine



Vijaydurg -

Mavlani cuisine with very fresh seafood from Suruchi Hotel, Mayuri Hotel and Hotel Vijaydurg Palace aka Hotel Darya and water views.



Ganpatipule -

Hotel Taranaga - sea views and good food - being a pilgrimage town there is a lot of vegetarian food here - this restaurant has non-veg options



Mahabaleshwar Hill Station - The Land of Strawberries

There are good restaurants near the market area


Chikki - peanuts and jaggery - other types have chocolate and strawberry combined with nuts like cashews - there are Chikki shops where you can try before you buy


Puran Poli - a chapati stuffed with sweet puran


Chicken Lollipops - Indian / Chinese delicacy found mainly at the market


Elsie's Dairy & Bakery - over 170 years old located in the main market and frozen in time


Carrot Date cake, Pineapple muffin, Apple tart, Banana Raisin Loaf, Chocolate muffin, Banana Walnut cake, Strawberry Jam cake - need I say more.


Saayali restaurant - for Indian classics like Butter Chicken and Tandoori Chicken


Farmhouse Bistro - if you need a western change, pasta, pizza, salad


Bagicha Corner - when it's ice cream o'clock - Strawberry ice cream and smoothies



Murud-Janjira -

Patil Khanaval

dining under the palm trees on the beach, the #1 place in town for sea food - traditional Konkan cooking with no frills and good prices


The restaurant at the Sand Piper Resort has good food and views



Alibaug -

Beach shacks at Nagaon beach cook up seafood meals


Mandwa Beach Boardwalk by Flamboyante there is an array of fine dining places, as well as shopping, cheap beer and adventure activities


Sanman - is a local favourite in town for its authentic Gomantac style seafood thali - they also have a beach resort and restaurant at Varsoli beach


Kokum & Spice at the Radisson Blu has delicious seafood



Matheran Hill Station -

Restaurants along the main street as well as the better resorts


Food stalls, vendors and dhabas have Maharashtrian and Punjabi food



Mumbai -

Batata Vada

mashed potatoes and spices dipped in besan deep fried and served with chutney - available everywhere


Vada Pav

Mumbai's favourite snack, see above and put it in a fresh bun


Butter Chicken - everyone's favourite, if you can get to the Punjab Grill Level 3 Palladium Mall Phoenix Mills, Lower Parel - it's also pretty good at Leopold's


The Bombay Sandwich

a weird combination of beetroot, potato, cucumber, tomato, capsicum, cheese, onion and mint chutney that somehow comes together - toasted is best


Bombay Duck

is actually a fish that is caught locally and coated with spiced besan batter and fried.


Yazdani Restaurant & Bakery

Rare Irani time capsule cafe from the 1950's - good for breakfast - house special is bread pudding - they also have delicious apple pie, carrot cake, egg puffs, bun maska (soft bun and butter), ginger biscuits and chai


Cafe Military since 1933

Another Irani Cafe where you can get authentic Parsi food at great prices and enjoy it with a cold beer. They are a lot more than just another to eat and unfortunately their futures are uncertain. In the 1950's there were 500 Irani cafes spread across the city and now there are only about 15 - 20 left. So get some while you can


Leopold's Cafe

Have lunch in this famous cafe. Open since 1871 it has featured in several movies and books such as Shantaram (a book loved by many and recommended reading) and Hotel Mumbai in which it was one of the first targets and it still has the bullet holes in the walls to prove it


Other Irani (Parsi) Cafes to check out -


Cafe Mondegar 1932

Iconic with vintage jukebox and murals of everyday life in Mumbai on the walls, good food and beer available


Good Luck Cafe

House specials are chai and kheema pav (curry made with minced meat)


Koolar and Co

Famous for their chai and ice cream sodas


Ideal Corner

Different menu every day - Railway Mutton Curry


Jimmy Boy 1925

Special, serving Parsi Wedding food and chocolate chip cookies


Sassanian Boulangerie

Plum cakes, minced chicken patties, lagan nu custard


Britannia & Company Restaurant 1923

Local institution with famous Berry Pulao, 

Lagan nu Custard, Salli Boti, Dhanshak and the raspberry drink you can only get at these cafes - Pallonji


Kyani & Co

Walnut date cake, Special Mawa cake (cardamom spiced, eggless and buttery), cherry custard


Cafe Excelsior

Famous for their chicken mayo rolls


B. Mewan & Co 1914

Famous for its Mawa cakes which often sell out just after they open


..............................................................................................................


Burma Burma

Over 50 blends of tea including their signature Burma Burma blend. You can eat tea leaves too in their delicious salads. try the National dish Mohingar a bowl of curry noodles often eaten for breakfast. There is a large range of dishes and some interesting drinks like Spiced Ginger, Kurry, Kumquat Mojito, Kaffir Lime Cooler and Seabuckthorn Mary.


Bagdadi

Over 125 years old in Colaba behind the Taj Palace, also good for lunch and great value - huge tandoori rotis eaten with meaty gravy dishes like chicken fry, beef chilli and mutton korma- Tuesday special is chicken white - they also do biryani and caramel custard - they're open until 12.30 am so it's good for late night munchies as well


Taj Mahal Palace

Even if you can't afford to stay here you can live it up a bit and have high tea - all you can eat buffet style, savoury and sweet so don't worry about having dinner. Served in the Sea Lounge with spectacular views of the Arabian Sea.  Over a dozen restaurants to choose from.


Gaylord 1956

Landmark restaurant and bakery in Churchgate


Mohammed Ali Road

for Street Food 11 am - 10 pm. Very popular during Ramadam


Bademiya

Late night kebabs behind the Taj Palace - originally a street stall started with Rs20 by a 13 year old boy



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Drink -


Fort Kochi -

Club 18

Has over 38 cocktails a 10,000 watt sound system and an outdoor pool


The XL Bar

Cold beer and loud music


The Cochin Fort Hotel

Has a beer garden



Ooty Hill Station -

The Ootacamund Club

play on the table where the game of snooker was invented - strict dress code applies - have a meal while you are there.


All of the higher end hotels have bars with drinks at higher end prices


Hit the Liquor Retailer and drink around the campfire



Wayanad -

There are currently 6 bars, 6 beer parlours and 5 state beverage outlets in Wayanad.



Mahe -

There are a lot of bars around due to the lax liqour laws and taxes but most of them are closed by around 9.30 pm. Start early.



Thottada Beach -

Theyyam Performances

cultural dances at the sea side temples



Bekal -

There are no outlets in Bekal so if you want a drink you'll need to take some with you.



Gokarna -

Officially alcohol is banned due to the holy status of the town but cold beers are easily available on the beach.


Chez Christophe

French restaurant on Gokarna beach with live music including the sitar


Ilmio Ristorante - Italian restaurant with DJ and sand dance floor at Gokarna beach


Mantra Cafe

Facing Kudle beach, bonfire, DJ and sand dancefloor



Palolem Beach -

Flyers get handed around at sunset to let you know what's going on and there is a 10 pm noise curfew


Cafe Del Mar and Silver Star - Cocktails & Dreams both have 24 hour licenses


Leopard Valley Goa

3,000 person capacity high octane club in a jungle quarry with a 7 m high stage with a waterfall, pyrotechnics, laser show, open air under the stars and costume clad dancers. - Friday nights - 5 km from Palolem Beach -


Silent Noise Disco

Pick up your headphones, dance the starry night away and keep the neighbours happy - Saturday nights at Neptune Point


Live music every night along the beach


Crystal Goa - live music in the evenings and Palolem's best curry



Vagator Beach -

Both Vagator and neighbouring Anjuna are party beaches


There are restauranys, cafes, bars, pubs and nightclubs all along the main road - Open Air Clubs - Hilltop since the 1970's (Sundays) and Primrose


Cafe Lilliput

Anjuna since 1986 - Beach shack during the day and party place by night


Guru Bar

Began as a chai stall and canteen in 1967 and is now a legendary rock venue - you can still get the vegetable cheese toast that was served to the hippies all those year ago



Tarkarli Beach -

Solkadhi

Is a curry energy drink made from coconut milk and kokuma sour dried fruit product.



Mahabaleshwar Hill Station -

Some of the cafes stay open late if you're hankering for a coffee, milkshake or late night ice cream - try Baba's near the market


Many of the resorts have bars


The Electrique Mist - nightclub on Kate's Point Rd - one of the town's best



Alibag -

There are pubs and bars 

scattered all around so it depends on where you end up staying



Matheran Hill Station -

Alcohol is allowed but you'll need to bring it in as no shops sell it.



Mumbai -

Lepold cafe 1871

Leo's has cheap beer and great atmosphere


Cafe Mondegar 1932

Mondy's has Mumbai's first jukebox with some classic old rock, murals depicting what happens in the bar and cold beer


Harbour Bar 1903

At the Taj Palace was Bombay's first licensed bar and disco, the signature cocktails all come with a history lesson - great views of the Gateway of India


Pub Crawls - a choice of two, 3 hours - English speaking guide and free shots in 4 pubs

Click here to find out about the Pub Crawls



====================================================



Sunsets -


Fort Kochi -

At the Chinese fishing nets

Sunset Cruise - past the Chinese fishing nets

Vasco da Gama Square - by the beach



Athirapilly Falls -

At the falls



Palakkad -

Kava Island



Ooty Hill Station -

Doddabetta Peak



Wayanad -

Lakkidi View Point



Mahe -

The Hillock and the Light House along the riverside walkway



Thottada Beach -

At the lively Muzzhappilangad Drive-in Beach



Amazing sunsets anywhere along the beach



Bekal -

At the fort if it's open - it can close at 5.30 pm



Udupi -

Malpe Beach


Sunset Cruise



Gokarna -

Everywhere



Goa


Palolem Beach -


The bar at Sunset Point


Dropadi restaurant

for cocktails and bar snacks


Boom Shankar

happy hour cocktails


Most beach bars offer 2 for 1 cocktails at sunset



Vagator Beach -

Titlie

open air cliff bar and eatery with DJ's, musicians and cocktails - come for Sunday Sundowners


Thassally - the Greek restaurant has great sunset views and parties every night


Chapora Fort

for the views - made famous in a movie


Chronicle

in Vagator - bar and tables overlooking the beach - sunsets will never be the same again


Antares - for the views and the cocktails - sunset parties Friday to Sundays that play music late into the night - leading up from Little Vagator



Vijaydurg -

By the Fort



Mahabaleshwar Hill Station -

On Venna Lake

Viewpoints - Wilson, Bombay & Kate's Point



Murud-Janjira -

Murud Beach

Sunsets are a big thing here - beach vendors set up a couple of hours earlier to prepare their wares, as the sun begins to set the crowd gathers, old and young alike, they sit on benches and in restaurants along the beach to watch the spectacle of sunset over the amazing Padmadurg Fort which seems to be floating in the sea. To complete the picture there are horse carriage rides, beach cricket and the warm waters of the Arabian Sea to frolic in.


Kashid Beach - head up early, have lunch at the Neel Garden Restaurant then enjoy the sunset at what is considered the best beach in the region



Matheran Hill Station -

There are 38 sunrise and sunset points around Matheran. One of these is Panorama Point with 360° views.


Sunset Point aka Porcupine Point

is 2 km away from the market through the woods with the sun setting behind a mountain painting the sky in a golden blend of colours. You might want to take a torch and not stay too long.


Charlotte Lake - stunning scenery and reflections



Mumbai -

AER Rooftop Bar

At the Four Seasons Hotel, on the 34th floor, smart casual dress, happy hour 5 pm - 8 pm - watch the sun go down and the city lights come on


Dome Rooftop Bar

8th floor of the InterContinental on Marine Drive with breathtaking ocean views and amazing sunsets


Cafe Marina

On the roof of the Sea Palace Hotel just near the Gateway of India - hidden gem - laid back atmosphere and cheaper prices with world music creating a lovely place to relax


Juhu Beach

Mumbai's iconic beach and a great place to people watch and eat delicious street food


Marine Drive

With a multitude of food stalls and mobile vendors and the coastal city lights coming on make for quite a sight


Girgaum Chowpatty

Up the coast from Marine Drive this beach is a popular hangout for locals with gorgeous sunsets and classical Mumbai street foods. At night the beach turns into a colourful fair with rides and a Ferris wheel.



====================================================



Tips -

· Take some warm clothes for the Hill Stations - or buy something there. Take some dress up clothes as well to get onto the Clubs at the Hill Stations which have dress codes.

· You can book the Ooty Toy Train online which you should do at least 3 months in advance. No catering or toilets on the trains. Huge crowds on holidays and weekends.

· Beware of all the usual scams in Vagator that you find in most heavily touristed areas - don't trust anyone who comes up to you in the street or on the beach

· Some of India's beaches have strong currents so ask for local advice before jumping in the water

· Load up on cash before going to small or out of the way places as they often have few ATM's which may, or may not have any cash.

· A good LED headlamp always comes in handy

· You can use Uber and Ola in Mumbai - most places will be walking distance from where you are staying - including the ferry terminal




Safety -

Don't leave your things in the tuk tuk unattended

Always park overnight in secure hotel parking

Don't drive at night / Don't drink and drive

Drive carefully and focussed / Don't rely on your brakes too much

Take corners slowly / Come down hills slowly

Be ready to get out of the way quickly / Fill up often / Check everything before you take off / Use your horn often

Have Fun



=====================================================



Specialties -

Fort Kochi -

Banana fritters with Beef roast


Breudher

a yeasted bread from the Dutch - the Bread of the Dead



Palakkad -

Spices, dried goods and pickles



Ooty Hill Station -

Homemade chocolates / Eucalyptus Products / teas


Homewood Tea

DTF Doddabetta Tea Factory and Tea Museum - Nilgiri Teas


Chocolate Museum



Coonoor Hill Station -

Chocolate stores

Shunky's homemade chocolates , Green Shop and Chittus Chocolate Hub



Wayanad -

Special Wayanad Pepper



Gokarna -

Gadbag Ice cream

Mangalorean ice cream dessert with several flavours of ice cream, nuts, chopped fruits, jelly, syrup and tutti frutti


Kallusakkare -

a refreshing sugar candy that is a local specialty



Tarkarli Beach -

Cashews 

and cashew based products are famous in this region, as are mangoes



Vijaydurg -

Famous for its Alphonso mangoes in summer / Seafood and Solkadhi



Ganpatipule -

Amba Poli - mango pancakes and Phans Poli made with jackfruit



Mahabaleshwar Hill Station -

Mahabaleshwar strawberries and raspberries



Alibag -

White onions (famous)

Known as Khandale Kande believed to have medicinal properties for cough, cold, fever and allergies, also heals wounds as it has antiseptic, antibiotic, and antimicrobial properties - best eaten raw it does not have a strong smell and tastes sweet



Matheran Hill Station -

Famous for its Chikki - visit the Nariman Chikki Mart, open for over 70 years


Honey

Beware of sugared fakes



Mumbai -

Irani Cafes




Souvenirs -

Tellicherry and Malabar pepper

From the International Pepper Market in Fort Kochi


See specialties in Ooty - the Ooty market is a good place to shop


Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary

For Wild Gold Honey


Uvaru Bamboo Factory

For bamboo products


The Wayanadan Spice Shop

Near the caves - for exclusive spice products of Wayanad including natural ice cream and spices


Kunnar - Kathakali masks


Gokarna

Car street in the town and the Hippie flea market after sunset on Kudle beach are a couple of places for shopping for - Hippie souvenirs / Prayer beads / Incense / Sahyadri Cashews


Malvan - cashew gift packs, cashew bars and sweets / mango based products / Kokum wax - used as a beauty product


Dream Catcher Shop - Palolem Beach


Leather goods - in Matheran Hill Station and its famous Chikki from the Nariman Chikki Mart, also have chocolates, fudges, honey and jams, prices are cheaper during the week


Leopold's Cafe - souvenir shop T-shirts, postcards etc / Coloba Causeway - street markets in Mumbai for attractive souvenirs, retro Bollywood posters / Bandra Road Street Markets on weekends




Extra -

See 'Motorcycle Loops' - Coromandel 2 Malabar Tuk Tuk Trip and Holi Moo in 'Festivals'.


More
Golden Triangle Loop

Golden Triangle Loop

Itinerary -

Bangkok 2N 


Chiang Mai 3N 

70km


Chiang Dao 2N 

85km


Doi Ang Khang 1N

85km


Tha Ton 2N 

55km


Thoet Thai 2N 

90km


Sop Ruak 2N 

75km


Chiang Rai 3N 

100km


Phayao 2N 

190 km


Tharnthong Lodges  (Doi Saket) 1N

55km


 Chiang Mai 1N 

= 21N / 8Towns & 805km




Skill Level -

It's not too difficult. The hills get quite steep near Doi Ang Khang but thats more of a problem for the bike than you. Most of the roads are nice and quiet especially out near the Myanmar border.




When -

October to January is best - you don't want to be riding in the rain or the smoke


October, November is shoulder season and December, January is peak.


You really don't want to go during burning season which is January to March. It's hard to say when this is but October to December should be before it happens and you're probably okay through to early January. 




Famous -

Tham Luang Cave

where the soccer team got stuck


The Golden Triangle




Highlights -

Chiang Mai Night Bazaar


Doi Mae Salong - KMT town


Khun Sa's Camp


Hall of Opium 


House of Opium


Black House / White Temple / Blue Temple


Chiang Rai Night Bazaar


Phayao Sunken Temple




Budget -

It's quite a cheap trip. Daily costs are pretty low and you'll only be out on the booze about half of the time. Not too many Michelin starred restaurants out here either.




Pack -

Always take some wet weather and warm gear. It always rains on one day of the trip. Try to keep it light. Long johns are good. As is a spray jacket, gloves and a Garden bag to keep your pck dry. Octopus straps to hold your pack down.




Visa -

Many countries get 30 days on arrival at Thai Airports. Some land borders only give 15 days to some countries.




Airports

Suvarnabhumi International Airport (BKK)

there is a free shuttle service between here and (DMK) which has the cheap flights and airlines


Don Mueang International Airport (DMK)

Use a taxi to get out here 


Chiang Mai International Airport (CNX)

Take the official airport taxi into town


Check here for airfares.




Starting Town -

Chiang Mai -

Flying from Bangkok is cheap, the overnight train is fun and the bus is the cheapest and least desirable option. The old Don Mueang International Airport (DMK) has the cheap flights.


Spend a couple of days organising the bikes and anything else you may need.


Cooking classes


Massage at the Women's Prison


Eat Khao Soi - Chiang Mai Laksa


Gaeng Hung Lay - Burmese pork curry


Sai Oua - Northern sausage 


Khantoke dinner - and show


Check out the Night Bazaar and drink by the river, Loi Kroh and Nimmanhaemin





Rental -

Chiang Mai is full of rental places. Most with a pretty good reputation. Shop around and definitely take the bike for a test run and check it out thoroughly. Take a photo of any damage to it before you leave.


Make sure you get a decent helmet. the best sort have a flip down clear plastic visor which makes riding in the rain much easier.


For one person a 125cc Honda Wave has plenty of power. If there are 2 of you you might want to get something with a little more power.



Stay - @ or near

Bangkok -

New Siam Riverside ***


Chiang Mai -

Raming Lodge Hotel & Spa ****


Chiang Dao -

Chiang Dao Nest 1 or 2

Both feature great food Nest 1 is Gourmet European Nest 2 is Quality Thai


Doi Ang Khang -

Angkhang Choeng Doi Garden Resort

A Frames by the water


Tha Ton -

Saranya River House ****


Thoet Thai -

Rimtaan Guesthouse


Sop Ruak -

Serene at Chiang Rai Hotel

make sure to get a river view


Chiang Rai -

Wiang Inn ****


Phayao -

Chaykwan Hotel ***


Doi Saket -

Tharnthorn Lodges *** 



====================================================



About -

Fly into BANGKOK (see Bangkok in Cities for what to do) and get your bearings. Have a day seeing the sights and catch a cheap flight. Or get a second class sleeper in the overnight train. (Click on the plane at the bottom of this page to look for cheap flights)


Have a day or two getting your bike and equipment sorted out in CHIANG MAI. If you need straps or anything the local hardware stores will be able to help you out.


Have a hearty breakfast and make your way to CHIANG DAO. There are some nice accommodation options and equally good food here. See the cave, soak in the hot springs and unwind.


Up the hill to DOI ANG KHANG, there's a hot spring to warm up and then a waterfull to cool off at along the way.


Back down to the riverside town of THA TON. Grab a place by the river. It's a great spot to relax and enjoy a meal and a few beers by the water. Explore the 9 levels of Wat Thaton and then check out the afternoon BBQ stalls.


The next stop THOET THAI doesn't see too many tourists. Drug warlord Khun Sa and his Shan United Army (SUA) were based here. It was the second time he had lived here and he was popular because he had built schools, hospitals and provided electricity and water supplies.


He became an embarrassment for the Thai government and he was bombed by the Thai Air force and chased out  by the Thai Army. It took three days of battle to remove him. He fled back to Burma just across the border from Mae Hong Son and came back bigger than ever.


He was known as "the Prince of Death", the "Heroin King" and the "King Of the Golden Triangle". He was once the most wanted man in the world. He controlled half of the world's heroin supply and offered Jimmy Carter a deal to destroy Burma's opium crop for just 20 million dollars a year. Jimmy knocked him back.  He made the same offer to George Bush for $48 million.


You can wander around the camp and through his bedroom and toilet. There are pictures of him on the walls and a dummy or two to remind you of his presence. It is quite surreal to think what went on here.


The next stop became famous only relatively recently. When a young soccer team and their coach became trapped in a cave the whole world waited with baited breath to see if they would make it out alive. Follow the road along  the border which is very scenic.


It was nice to see a good news story for a change as they all emerged from their ordeal unscathed and in good humour. Unfortunately one brave Thai Navy diver wasn't so lucky. The cave is now a tourist attraction with stalls selling souvenirs, T-shirts and as always in Thailand, food. They are working on a museum too.


The next couple of nights in SOP RUAK are in a wonderful hotel with great views of the Mekong River. You are now at the Golden Triangle. Here you can visit the Hall of Opium and the House of Opium. One is much bigger than the other but both are well worth a look.

 

You will learn interesting facts like Heroin was a brand name and was first produced commercially by German Pharmaceutical company Bayer. It was sold  as a cough medicine and was considered a wonder drug. It was invented by an English Chemist named C.R. Alder Wright in 1874.


Grab your passport because you're going to Laos. It's possible to go across the river to the Lao PDR for a few hours (see tips below). There is a market over there selling some unusual things and it's a bit of fun talking to the locals.


On your way down to CHIANG RAI stop in for a look at the Black House


Stay in a nice hotel near the Night Market. Spend a few days here to recharge and relax. There are a wide range of activities to entertain you including the White and Blue Temples. You've probably seen pictures of the White one. You can spend a day at the "beach" and enjoy some of the nightlife.


PHAYAO is not on the tourist radar which is a definite plus. This lakeside town is a hidden gem. They have great pubs with live music, a sunken temple, amazing sunsets and specialise in salt grilled fish. The best part of these motorbike trips is seeing authentic places and this is one of them.


As good as the scenery has been this penultimate leg has some of the best. Spend the night in the THARNTHONG LODGES an out of the way resort with great food. Visit the nearby hot springs for a relaxing soak and massage.


Back into CHIANG MAI today along Sankampaeng Road aka 'the Handicrafts Highway" which is one long craft village. Stop in and see wood carvers, umbrella painters, silk weavers, lacquer ware, bronze, pottery, leather and all manner of craftsmen plying their trade. It's the best place to pick up a bargain and they will gladly ship your new treasure home for you. No matter how big it is.


One last night in CHIANG MAI before heading home or onto your next adventure. If you are timing this for the Loy Krathong / Yee Peng Festival you will need at least 2 - 3 nights back in Chiang Mai. Phayao would be a great spot for Loy Krathong as well.



====================================================



History -

This area has had a very interesting history in recent times. In China before WWII there was a civil war going on in China between Mao and his communist army and the Nationalist or Kuomintang (KMT) government of Chiang Kai Shek. This was complicated by the annexing of Manchuria and eventual invasion by Japan. At one stage Mao and Chiang actually joined forces against the Japanese.


When Mao finally took power, Chiang and his army fled to Taiwan with many of China's treasures. Two KMT Regiments were isolated in Yunnan Province in the south of the country and 12,000 troops retreated across the border into Burma.  


The CIA helped them try to retake Yunnan many times. The Burmese fought against them for 12 years before they made their way into northern Thailand. It costs a lot of money to maintain an army so they got involved in the opium game.


The Opium War of 1967 was fought with drug lord Khun Sa and his Shan United Army over the river in Ban Khwang in Laos. Both sides suffered as they were bombed by the Royal Lao Air Force. The people in Sop Ruak (where you are staying) had a front row seat.


Many battles were fought and a lot of these things happened in areas you will be riding through. Doi Mae Salong was said to be the biggest heroin refinery in all South East Asia. The CIA had offices near Khao San Road in Bangkok and in Chiang Mai. Assassinations, high level corruption, spies etc it was all happening. Ironic that the CIA had started the trade in the first place.


Some of the KMT were able to be repatriated to Taiwan but the majority remained a problem for Thailand.


Thailand granted them asylum on condition they helped protect the border against infiltration by communists. They also fought battles against Thai communists in other parts of the country. 


A lot of students fled to the countryside and joined the communists at this time after their protests had been brutally crushed.


Eventually there was an amnesty for the communists, different crops were substituted for opium and the KMT soldiers put their weapons down. 


There were also refugees from Yunnan over the years and there are now about 60 KMT villages around the north. Doi Mae Salong is one of the biggest ones. They maintain their Chinese heritage, grow Oolong Tea and make great Yunnanese Noodles.



See -

Buffalo Village


Doi Tung Palace




Do -

Bua Thong Waterfall - it's sticky underfoot

Herbal Sauna

Tea tasting

Off Road




Eat -




  • Everywhere - Night Markets / Street Food



  • Salung Kham - Grandma's secret recipes




Sunsets -

At the Golden Triangle

Sunken Temple - Phayao




Drink -


  • Everywhere - Local bars and restaurants


  • Chiang Rai - Night Bazaar / Jetyod Rd / Par Club / Sperm Club / Hill Tribe Coffee 





Tips -

  • You can cross over the bridge into Myanmar for a few hours at Mae Sai just go up to immigration to find out the rules.

  • And you can cross into Laos for a couple of hours at Sop Ruak by boat. You'll find passport controll set up by the riverside. They keep your passport and send you over with a photocopy.

  • Pump up the tyres  on your bike quite hard. If you put your thumbs in the centre of the tread you should barely be able to push it in.

  • Always lock your bikes together.

  • Maps from GT riders are very handy as is their website

  • Click here for GT Riders

  • Saturday night is Walking Street in Chiang Rai

  • Sunday is Market night in Phayao




Safety -

Slow is safe. You will encounter many hazards along the way and the slower you are going the more chance you will survive them. Pot holes, animals, mad bus and truck drivers etc. 

At the end of every motor vehicle accident story in the papers is the line "and the driver fled the scene".


On the roads in Asia there is one rule. Smaller things give way to bigger things. At least on a bike you have plenty of room to get out of the way. And you know where you stand in the pecking order - right at the bottom.


Don't let this scare you off what is a fantastic experience. It just means you don't need to rent a big powerful bike and go hell for leather.

When the road is good and clear you can still give it a handful and there is nothing like the feeling of cruising through the bends in the afternoon light with just a subtle shift of your weight. 

The ever reliable 125 has plenty enough power to get you up the steepest hills. And they're incredibly cheap. 

If you want some more comfort or there are 2 on the bike something bigger would be a good idea. The Honda Forza scooter is a good choice.


Short easy days are the way to go. You're on holidays. Don't ride in the dark.




Specialties -

  • Elephant Poo Coffee - the world's most expensive coffee - from the Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp

  • Chiang Mai and Phayao are famed for their beautiful ladies

  • Phayao Salt Grilled Fish - Fish, Beer, Scenery



Souvenirs -

Insect flavoured liqueurs

Scorpion and snake wines

Oolong Tea

Elephant Poo Coffee




Extra -

Have a look at Bangkok and Chiang Mai in Cities

Chiang Mai has an International Airport with direct flights to cities in neighbouring countries - see Airports above.


Have a look at the other Motorbike Loops - Thailand, Myanmar, Laos and Singapore in Countries - Loy Krathong, Fire Balloons and Lao New Year in Festivals and Golfing Nomads.


More
Mae Hong Son Loop

Mae Hong Son Loop


Itinerary -

Bangkok 2N 


Chiang Mai 3N 

140km


Navasaung Resort 1N 

125km


Mae Sariang 3N 

165km


Mae Hong Son 3N 

130km


Pang Mapha / Cave Lodge 3N 

50km


Pai 3N 

100km


Mae Rim 2N

40km


 Chiang Mai 1N

 = 21N / 6Towns & 750Km




 Safety -

Slow is safe. You will encounter many hazards along the way and the slower you are going the more chance you will survive them. Pot holes, animals, mad bus and truck drivers etc. 

At the end of every motor vehicle accident story in the papers is the line "and the driver fled the scene".


On the roads in Asia there is one rule. Smaller things give way to bigger things. At least on a bike you have plenty of room to get out of the way. And you know where you stand in the pecking order - right at the bottom.


Don't let this scare you off what is a fantastic experience. It just means you don't need to rent a big powerful bike and go hell for leather.

When the road is good and clear you can still give it a handful and there is nothing like the feeling of cruising through the bends in the afternoon light with just a subtle shift of your weight. 


The ever reliable 125 has plenty enough power to get you up the steepest hills. And they're incredibly cheap. 

If you want some more comfort or there are 2 on the bike something bigger would be a good idea. The Honda Forza scooter is a good choice.


Short easy days are the way to go. You're on holidays. Don't ride in the dark. Alcohol and motorbikes don't mix.




Skill Level -

There are a couple of tricky bits but take it slowly and you'll be fine. It's a fantastic ride for a motor bike.




When -

October to January is best - you don't want to be riding in the rain or the smoke.


October, November is shoulder season and December, January is peak.


You really don't want to go during burning season which is January to March. It's hard to say when this is but October to December should be before it happens and you're probably okay through to early January. 




Famous -

This Loop


The Long Neck Karen Ladies

there are arguments as to whether this is exploitation or not but the bottom line is they are refugees and this is the only way they can earn money for the whole village.


Air America with Mel Gibson and Robert Downey Jnr 

was filmed in Mae Hong Son which they renamed  "May Hang Self". But they were here a lot longer than you will be. It's a magical place especially at night with the temple lights reflecting in the lake while you stroll around the Night Market.


Coffee in Love

a very scenic cafe area was in Thai movie and became very famous. Traffic used to back up for kilometres to come up for coffee and selfies.


Su Tong Pae

the Bamboo Bridge




Highlights -

Ko Kret or Bang Kachao - 2 Bangkok Islands - see Bangkok in "Cities" Days 3 & 7)


Chiang Mai Grand Canyon - weird water park


Doi Inthanon - "The Roof of Thailand" and rare Cloud Forest


Mae Sariang - Salween River boat trip from Mae Sam Laeb


Phu Klon Country Club - Mud Spa


Cave Lodge - unique place to stay


  1. Three Countries in one day - Thailand

  2. Ban Rak Thai - Little China

  3. Pang Oung Resevoir - Little Switzerland


Pai - everybody's favourite town


Mae Rim - Pools with  views




Budget -

Very cheap, great value for money.




Pack -

Always take some wet weather and warm gear. It always rains on one day of the trip. Try to keep it light. Long johns are good. As is a spray jacket, gloves and a Garden bag to keep your pck dry. Octopus straps to hold your pack down.




Visa -

Many countries get 30 days on arrival at Thai Airports. Some land borders only give 15 days to some countries.




Airports - 

Suvarnabhumi International Airport (BKK)

there is a free shuttle service between here and (DMK) which has the cheap flights and airlines


Don Mueang International Airport (DMK)

Use a taxi to get out here


Chiang Mai International Airport (CNX)

Catch the official airport taxi into town


Check here for airfares.




Starting Town -

Chiang Mai -


Flying from Bangkok is cheap, the overnight train is fun and the bus is the cheapest and least desirable option. The old Don Mueang International Airport (DMK) has the cheap flights.


Spend a couple of days organising the bikes and anything else you may need.



Cooking classes


Massage at the Women's Prison


Eat Khao Soi - Chiang Mai Laksa


Gaeng Hung Lay - Burmese pork curry


Sai Oua - Northern sausage 


Khantoke dinner - and show


Check out the Night Bazaar and drink by the river, Loi Kroh and Nimmanhaemin




Rental -

Chiang Mai is full of rental places. Most with a pretty good reputation. Shop around and definitely take the bike for a test run and check it out thoroughly. Take a photo of any damage to it before you leave.


Make sure you get a decent helmet. the best sort have a flip down clear plastic visor which makes riding in the rain much easier.


For one person a 125cc Honda Wave has plenty of power. If there are 2 of you you might want to get something with a little more power.



====================================================


Stay - @ or near

Bangkok -

 New Siam Riverside *** -  

river views, swimming pool in Banglamphu area near Khao San Road 


Chiang Mai -

Raming Lodge Hotel & Spa **** -  

great location with swimming pool, Spa and Wellness Centre


Navasuang Resort -

not on Booking.com, shouldn't be any problems rocking up with out a booking - swimming pool, great view and very helpful


Mae Sariang -

Riverhouse Resort *** - 

on the river, swimming pool, restaurant and bar


Mae Hong Son -

Piya Guest House

not on Booking.com - lakeside - best location in town, swimming pool and very friendly 


Pang Mapha (Sop Pong) - 

Cavelodge

Adventure tours, restaurant, big common area with fire pit, cold beer - homepage


Pai -

Family House @ Pai *** - 

great location by river and close to town centre, swimming pool, restaurant and bar - next door is a real bargain Breeze of Pai **½ - not on Booking.com - A framed bungalows with the river at the rear of the property


Mae Rim -

All of these have swimming pools with great views and are within about half an hour of each other.


Panviman Chiang Mai Spa Resort***** -

hilly with fantastic views - 2 Swimming pools, Spa & Wellness Centre, Cafe, Restaurant, Bar


Sukantara Cascade Resort and Spa **** 

hot tub by the waterfall - Swimming pool, Spa & Wellness Centre, Cafe, Restaurant, Bar, peacocks


Hmong Hilltribe Lodge*** - 

BBQ night and Akha dancing - Swimming pool, Restaurant, Bar


If you can't decide just spend a night at each one :-)


====================================================



About -

Have a couple of nights in BANGKOK to get acclimatised. Have a look at Bangkok in 'Cities' for detailed information and a selection of sights and activities.


Make your way to CHIANG MAI either by plane or train. The plane is quick and cheap. The train is fun but sometimes floods cut the line at the end of the wet season.

Have 3 days in Chiang Mai getting organised and taking in the sights.


Head off south west on Hwy 108 on your great adventure. You only have 140 kms to cover today so you'll have plenty of time to look around. First stop is the Chiang Mai Grand Canyon. Pull in for a coffee or spend an hour or two having a swim or being a dare devil.


Next make you way up Doi Inthanon, Thailand's tallest mountain and see the twin pagodas for the King and Queen. Take a walk through the rare Cloud Forest and see Thailand's only Sphagnum Bog. You're never far from food in Thailand so just pick up lunch whenever you're hungry.


Continue on to your destination the friendly NAVASUANG RESORT. Cool off in the pool then grab a beer and take in the wonderful view.


After a good night sleep and a hearty breakfast make your way to MAE SARIANG. A similar distance to yesterday so no need to rush anywhere. Along the way you can see the Thep Phanom Hot Spring and Ob Luang National Park (A second Grand Canyon in as many days - don't worry there's more, but not on this trip. Unless you count Pai Canyon).


Mae Sariang is a great find and thankfully not too many people know about it. There's a good stretch of bars and restaurants along the river to entertain you in the evenings. During the day you can check out the Salawin River and go for a boat ride to a remote village for lunch on one of the longest free flowing rivers in the world.

There's a few pools around town, markets and an intriguing Buddha statue worth a look.


Head north on the 108. It's easy to navigate this trip as most days you only have one or two highway numbers to remember. Once again it's around a 3 hour ride, so it's nice and relaxed. Stop off for lunch in Khun Yuam which is around the half way mark. There is a museum here with some artefacts left by the Japanese in WWII. If it's the right time of year (November and early December for 40 days) head out for a look at the Thung Bua Tong Wild Sunflowers. It will take you an hour and 50 kms out of your way.


Try to find a place near the lake in MAE HONG SON. Piya Guest House is basic but has the best location in town, is great value and the staff are fantastic. Head up the hill to the temple for sunset and wonderful views of the town. At night time there is a market and food stalls around the lake and with the temple lights twinkling in the lake reflection it's hard to think of anywhere else you'd rather be. 


Or perhaps you can and it's the local pub, the Crossroads - a short walk away. There are some good day time outings here. A visit to the nearby Phu Klon Country Club Mud Spa is a must and your support for the local Karen refugee village would be much appreciated. There is some controversey about these visits but the simple fact is it is the only revenue for the whole village. Another attraction is the photogenic Su Thong Pae Bamboo Bridge, built across the rice paddies it is the longest one in Thailand. It makes for a varied and good day out. Probably best to go to the Long Neck Village first then the bridge and finish up with the mud spa.


Thailand, China and Switzerland, three countries in one day. That's how you will start off your next leg. Ban Rak Thai (love Thailand village) is a scenic little village around a lake which was settled by former Chinese Nationalist soldiers. It is a good place for morning tea as you can have tea tastings and Yunnan noodles. You will see a large tea centre on the way which is worth stopping at. Go to Thai Switzerland on the way back to the main road for a coffee.


Ban Ruam Thai is known as the Switzerland of Thailand with its lake, mountains and pine trees. Save your appetite for the BBQ stands at "Fish Cave" when you get back on the main road. Continue on until you get to the town of Pang Mapha aka Soppong and make your way to Cave Lodge.


This unique place was set up by an Australian spelunker and his Shan wife on Shan land. If you're into caving you'll enjoy his book which is on sale at the lodge. Nearby is the amazing Tham Lod (cave). CAVE LODGE is made up of different types and standards of bungalows scattered around the hilltop and a large communal building with a fire pit, hammocks, kitchen for eating, drinking and socialising.


There are a whole 'raft' of activities here from black and white water kayaking, caving and hiking. Wander down just before sunset and see and hear the amazing spectacle of  10 million bats and 10 million swallows changing shifts. It's a great place to get back to nature.


The next town on the loop, PAI has been likened to a rural Khao San Road due to its popularity with backpackers and other travellers. It is popular for good reason. It is located in a beautiful part of the world, there are a lot of things to do here, it has a fantastic Night Market and some great restaurants. It is also a good place to get bamboo tattoos if that is on your list. 


Try to find somewhere nice by the river, but still a short walk from the town centre. Family House @ Pai is a good choice. Or Breeze of Pai is good value for basic A Frame bungalows.


There is plenty here to keep you occupied including Pai Canyon, the Japanese Bridge, Elephant Camp, Hot Springs, Beauty treatments, tubing, waterfalls, villages etc etc. Have fun!


Still heading east, make your way to the resort you have picked out in MAE RIM. There are a lot of action activities around here. Or you may want to sit around your spectacular pool and contemplate the journey you've just experienced with an icy cold beer in hand. Just after a relaxing spa session and massage. Sounds good!!


Short ride down the highway to CHIANG MAI and your last night. Make it a good one. Fly back to Bangkok and home. There are two airports in Bangkok so you'll want to be flying to the one with the IATA code BKK otherwise you'll need to take the free transfer shuttle which can take an hour or two depending on the traffic. 




History -

Until fairly recently Mae Hong Son Province was the most inaccessible in the Kingdom. The Japanese built the first dirt road to the town during WWII. It had started life as a camp stet up for capturing elephants in the early 1800's.


Mae Hong Son continued to grow isolated from the rest of Thailand with many Burmese influences.


Ban Rak Thai was settled by Chinese KMT soldiers who came across the border after they had become isolated in southern China when Mao came to power. After years of involvement in the drug trade and hunting communists for the Thai government it was time for them to settle down. There are over 60 of these villages in northern Thailand.

The region around Pai was a haven for opium and communists in the 1970's. By the 80's these problems had been solved and the hippies started moving in.




See -

Bangkok - Sunset from Sky Bar

Chiang Mai - Doi Suthep

Doi Inthanon - Cloud Forest

Mae Sariang - Phra That Jom Thong

Mae Hong Son - Long Neck Karen Village - Su Thong Pae Bamboo Bridge - Ban Rak Thai

Phang Mapha - Tham Lod (Cave)

Pai - Pai Canyon (not for the faint hearted) - Japanese Bridge

Wild Sunflowers in November - December

Mae Rim - Buffalo Training Camp 




Do -

Bangkok - Visit Ko Kret - Sunset at the Golden Mount

Chiang Mai - Massage at the Women's Prison / Cooking Classes

Mae Sariang - Salween River trip

Mae Hong Son - Visit the Mud Spa

En-route to Cavelodge go to Ban Rak Thai and little Switzerland, a tea plantation and a fish cave

Cavelodge - Black and White water kayaking - Spelunking - Trekking - Cave Lodge

Pai - Thom's Elephant Camp - Pai - Hot Spring Sa Resort Get a bamboo tattoo - Pai - ATV sunrise tour Tubing - Pai - White water rafting - learn a few tricks at the Pai Circus School

Mae Rim - Off road in the jungle




Eat -

Bangkok - Karim Roti Mataba - Jay Fai - Thipsamai


Chiang Mai - Blue Diamond / Huen Phen / Aroon Rai / Khantoke / Riverside 


Mae Sariang - Coriander in Redwood (Good Thai food and wine) - Night Markets - Mae Sariang Wed, Fri & Sun


Mae Hong Son - Being so close to the border there is a lot of Shan food on offer. Shan and Yunnan Noodles


Phang Mapha - good food at Cavelodge


Pai - Night Market


Mae Rim - at the Resort


Roadside BBQs - a good one near the Mud Spa


Little restaurants in the middle of nowhere - you'll be surprised - mime something (like a chicken) and see what comes out




Drink -

Bangkok

Banglamphu - Khao San Road (local)


Chiang Mai - 

Loi Kroh / Riverside / Nimmanhaemin / Hill Tribe Coffee 


Mae Sariang

String of riverside bars with live music in the evenings - Black Ant for Coffee


Mae Hong Son

Crossroads Pub 


Pai

Chaisongkran Rd for Bars


Mae Rim - By the pool




Tips -

  • Download the Maps.me app and all of the appropriate maps and use it to navigate everywhere

  • Check the map and fill up the petrol tank when necessary. Once or twice a trip there is always a section where you think you are going to run out.

  • Pump up the tyres quite hard. If you put your thumbs in the centre of the tread you should barely be able to push it in.

  • Don't be shy about using your horn to let people and animals know you are there

  • Always lock your bikes together.

  • Maps from GT riders are very handy as is their website

  • Click here for GT Riders

  • Pai gets very busy from November to January and prices can double or worse



Specialties -

Whatever is in season you will see displayed along the side of the road all ready prepared to eat, for you to pick up and enjoy.




Souvenirs -

Get your certificate to say you've negotiated the 1,864 bends in Mae Hong Son at the Tourist Office


Shan treats


Burmese cheroots


Pick up some tea in Ban Rak Thai




Extra -

Have a look at Bangkok and Chiang Mai in Cities

Chiang Mai has an International Airport with direct flights to cities in neighbouring countries - see in Airports above.

Have a look at the other Motorbike Loops. Thailand, Myanmar, Laos and Singapore in Countries. Loy Krathong, Fire Balloons and Lao New Year in Festivals and Golfing Nomads.


More
Thakhek Loop

Thakhek Loop



Itinerary -

Bangkok 2N - 


Nakhon Phanom 2N - 


Thakhek  2N - 


Nakai 1N - 60 km


Nam Theun 2N - 40 km


Na Hin 1N - 105 km


Ban Tiou 3N - 45 km


Na Hin 1N - 45 km


Thakhek 2N - 150 km


Nakhon Phanom 4N - 


Lat Krabang 1N = 21N








Skill Level -

A reasonable level of competency would be good. It's not that difficult but there are a lot of little traps and pitfalls that can trip up an inexperienced rider. Things like potholes, loose gravel on corners, fallen rocks, kamikaze animals from chickens to water buffaloes and crazy bus and truck drivers. And inexperienced motorbike riders. They have quite a few accidents around here so be careful. The main road is sealed all of the way around but some of the side roads leading to attractions can be challenging.




When -

October to January is best - you don't want to be riding in the rain.


This trip is timed to coincide with the Lai Ruea Fai Festival (Fireboat or Illuminated Boat Procession) in Nakhom Phanom. Like most Thai festivals the dates are set according to the lunar calendar which changes every year. So when you pin them down book your hotel immediately. Normally it is towards the end of October.


The festival lasts for 9 days and includes Dragon boat races, street fairs, local food, music, cultural performances and of course the main event - the Fireboats. The last two days are the most exciting so time your trip to be around then.

Click here to find out more about the festival.




Famous -

UNESCO candidate - Wat Phra That Phanom - famous pilgrimage site.




Highlights -

  • Illuminated boats - Lai Ruea Fai Festival

  • The natural wonders of central Laos

  • Karst Topography - some of the best scenery in Laos - Jungles - Mountains - Drowned Forests

  • Caves - Elephant - Buddha - Dragon

  • The Drowned Forest

  • Buddhas carved into the road side rocks

  • Cool Pool - turquoise spring water

  • Bomb Boats - cruise on a missile (Fuel tank actually)

  • Phu Man the Rock Viewpoint - Stunning views of the Limestone forest and Reastaurant

  • Konglor Cave - the highlight of the Loop

  • Waterfalls and swimming holes



Getting there -


Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK) -

Fly in and out of Bangkok Airport. At the moment the only flight to Nakhon Phanom Airport is from DMK. Spend a couple of nights in Bangkok on arrival then just make your to the old airport north of the city.


On return there is a last night in a nice hotel in the Lat Krabang area around Suvarnabhumi Airport. Just jump on the inter airport shuttle from DMK when you arrive there. You'll be nice and relaxed for your flight out the next day. 10 minutes away by free shuttle.


Don Mueang International Airport (DMK) -

This is Bangkok's old airport and a lot of cheap domestic flights operate out of here. If you are flying out of here make sure your taxi driver knows which airport you're going to. 


If you fly back here there is a free shuttle bus between the 2 airports that runs often and takes an hour or two depending on traffic. Your hotel will pick you up at the other end for free.


Nakhon Phanom Airport (KOP) -

Fly in and out of this pleasant little rural airport. There is a bus into town that will drop you off at your hotel.


Check here for airfares.




Budget -

Low - very cheap for everything and you can't spend money while you're riding. Great value hotels. So you'll be able to have the odd splurge :-)




Pack -

  • Light is usually best. You can leave your main pack at your accommodation so make sure you have a day pack big enough to keep you going for a week. You can wash your "smalls" in the shower as you go and wear the same smelly clothes on the bike each day. Because no one will be able to smell you as you ride along. Wear your "good clothes" out at night time.


  • Take a good head lamp for the caves.


  • Warm but light things such as thermal long johns and vest, gloves, hat and some light waterproof items. Those thick plastic garden bags are good for putting your pack in to keep it dry.


  • Octopus straps to secure your daypack. It's not much fun carrying it on your back all day. If you do have to lengthen the straps so that the seat takes the weight.


  • Crocs are great all rounders for caves, waterfalls, jungle trekking, slipping on and off outside temples & houses and wet slippery surfaces


  • A dry bag could come in handy for your valuables in some of the caves and other places you might want to keep your camera dry




Visas -


Thailand -

Grants most countries a month on arrival. When you cross back into Thailand some countries get 2 weeks as it is a land border and others get another month. If you want to spend more time in Thailand get a 2 month double entry tourist visa before you go.

Click here to double check everything.



Laos -

A 30 day visa on arrival is easy to get at the border. Just catch a bus from Nakhon Phanom to the third Thai - Lao Friendship Bridge located at Ban Hom. You will need US $37 (Must be US cash and it always pays to keep them in mint condition) and a passport photo.




Starting Town -


Thakhek -

The town was founded in the early 1900's by the French as a colonial trading post. It has French colonial buildings and Chinese shop houses. Situated on the Mekong River and surrounded with great scenery it is blessed with fantastic views. Stay in a lovely colonial boutique hotel with a riverfront terrace restaurant and bar.


Have 2 nights here before and after the trip. That will give you plenty of time to organise the bikes and wind down when it's all over. Dont miss the sunsets on the Mekong and the riverside Night Market.




Rental -

Mad Monkey Motorbike

good bikes and information and close to the hotel - pick up a map


Wang Wang Motor rental

good bikes and offer roadside assistance - with cheaper prices


Mr Ku - who is credited with establishing the Loop - located at the Thakhek Travel Lodge which has a famous log book. 


Look over the bike, take photos of any damage and make the owner aware of them before you hire.


Get a good helmet, preferably with a clear visor which is very important if it rains.



====================================================


Stay -


Bangkok -

New Siam Riverside ***

with a pool, by the river


Nakhon Phanom -

The River Hotel **** - 

fantastic service and an international view from your bathroom


Thakhek -

le bouton d'or boutique hotel *** - 

great location with a restaurant by the Mekong for wonderful sunsets


Nakai -

Sunset Resort & Restaurant Nakai


Thalang -

Phosy Thalang Laos

Riverside on stilts with a BBQ


If you want to experience a Home stay they are available in the village. Just look for the blue signs.


Na Hin -

Sanhak Guesthouse *** - 

excellent restaurant


Ban Tiou -

SpringRiver Resort **

pure magic, go for the river view


Na Hin -

Sainamhai Resort **** - 

riverside with a great restaurant


Lat Krabang -

Suvarnabhumi Suite Hotel **** - 

great value, 10 minutes to the airport on free shuttle, swimming pool, rooftop garden, restaurant and bar with live music, fitness centre and sauna, 5 minute walk to Suvarnabhumi Flea Market, street food, restaurants and clubs.



====================================================


About -

This trip goes at a pretty relaxing pace with plenty of time to stop and enjoy your surroundings. As they say Lao PDR stands for Please Don't Rush.


Fly in and out of BANGKOK and stay on the river near the Khao San Road area. It has everything you could ever need and a whole lot more. It is also close to the major attractions and very covenient for the ferries.


Spend a few nights in NAKHON PHANOM. You can either time your trip for the Fireboat Festival to be  the start or end of your holiday. Or skip altogether it if it doesn't fit into your plans. It's a great little town and the wonderful scenery across the river will whet your anticipation for what is to come. You'll be coming back here on the way back as well so have a longer stay when the festival is on. If you can leave the festival for the end of the trip it would be a good way to finish things on a high.


Cross over to THAKHEK, stay by the river, spend a couple of nights, organise your bike and take the it out for a decent test ride. You could visit some of the caves and swimming holes marked for day one and save some time when you are on the loop. 


The Pa Seuam Cave is a 3 km river cave where you can kayak through as a part of a 3 hour tour. It's near the Buddha Cave. Tham Nang Aen Cave (Biggest and most developed - coloured lights and underground boat tour which takes 2 hours). A visit to these two would fill in your day and it wouldn't be feasible to spend this much time at one attraction on the ride. So one of these would be a good option on your test ride.


DAY 1

Head off on the loop. If you don't have a licence take the back streets out of town to avoid a police scam. Check out  what you haven't seen on "cave alley" and cool off at a swimming hole along the way. First stop is the Sunset Resort & Restaurant at NAKAI. They have bungalows, geodesic domes, a restaurant, swimming pool and a party boat. Relax here as long as you like because it is a very short day tomorrow.


DAYS 2 & 3

It's less than a hour to THALANG. On the way you could stop off and walk The Orchid Path a 900 metre trail that will take you up to the reservoir view point. Stay by the lake at Phosy Thalang Guesthouse in a bungalow with a balcony by the lake.


Up the road is the very popular Sabai Dee Guesthouse who have a nightly BBQ. It's a good place to go and meet other travellers. If you have a few spare days and want to go trekking into the Nakai Nam Thuen National Park they can organise it here. They have other tours as well to this newly opening up attraction. You have a couple of nights to relax in this laid back little place, so put your feet up. Head out onto the lake for a boat trip or catch a few fish for dinner.


DAY 4

Fill up the tank before you head out of town. The ride up to LAK SAO is slightly surreal as go through the flooded valley populated by dead trees. Look for the Buddhas carved into the rocks on the side of the road. Lak Sao is a good place to hit the ATM if you need it and have lunch. Or even better, wait for the restaurant at the Dragon Cave.


The next section of jungle covered karst is some of the best on the loop. First stop is the Dragon Cave then a cool down at the turquoise waters of the Cool Pool. At the village of Tha Bak you can hire a "Bomb Boat" (repurposed B-52 fuel tank) and go for a cruise. Fill up your tank before you head  to your accommodation. Spend the night at the excellent Sanhak Guesthouse in NA HIN.


DAYS 5,6 & 7

A stunning ride down between towering limestone karsts surrounded by bright green rice paddies to the famous KONG LOR CAVE is a good way to start your day. Stay at the stunningly located SpringRiver Resort for a blissful 3 days. Plenty of time to see the cave and enjoy the wonderful accommodation. If you can lash out a bit and get the best room available. Definitely get a balcony overlooking the river if you can. 


You can travel from the resort to the cave by boat along the river. If you feel like being active there is a lot to do to keep you entertained such as canoeing, cycling, swimming, hiking and a nearby village.


DAY 8

Time to leave paradise and get back on the loop. Have a late start if you like as you're only riding back to NA HIN today. Check in to your hotel on the way through. It has riverside bungalows, great food and is close to a little village.


If you're feeling energetic head up to the Nam Sanam Waterfall. Definitely take a guide and some good walking shoes and your bathers. It's a 1km ride and 2km difficult jungle trek. You'll need to set aside 3 hours for this. There is a swimming pool at the bottom then you can climb further up to see the full power of the falls. They should be flowing well at the end of the monsoon season.


An Australian traveller nearly died here in 2008 when a tropical down pour caused him to lose the path and become disorientated. Somehow he survived 11 days out in the elements before being rescued. It is an amazing story and a documentary has been made about it called Miracle in the Jungle.


You can watch it here. - And see why you should get a guide.


If you'd rather avoid all of that head straight to the Limestone Forest Viewpoint - known as the "Peak of the Loop". The views of one of Asia's largest limestone forests are sensational and there are zip lines, a spider net and canopy walks. There is a good restaurant here and it's a great place to be around sunset. Your hotel has a good restaurant too so that could be dinner and drinks later.


DAY 9

Last day on the loop today. It should take around 3 hours or so to get back to THAKHEK. It's back on the main road so it won't be as scenic as what your used to but it will be quicker and you'll complete the circle.


If you feel like a swim on the way back, Khun Kong Leng Lake is a beautiful spot to cool off. Unfortunately it's 20 km off of the highway. You'll see a sign about 30 km from Thakhek.


2 nights here in Thakhek to unwind and enjoy a few treats and get a massage or two. And a couple more Mekong sunsets accompanied by an icy cold Beer Lao or 2 or 3 or 4.....


Make your way back to Thailand and get into party mode. Fire boats, Walking Streets, Dragon Boat races, you'll soon see the Thai's know how to have a good time. It's called Sanuk (Fun) and you'll love it. 


If you get the time there are a few sights you might want to see. Uncle Ho (Ho Chi Minh) used to live in a small village near here and you can visit his house and garden. One of the most sacred temples for Thai and Lao Buddhists is down the road. Wat Phra That Phanom contains Buddha's breastbone and it is considered a once in a lifetime opportunity to make a pilgrimage here. Those who have visited 7 times are considered children of the chedi and can expect good luck and prosperity to ensue. Even one visit is considered auspicious.


Fly back to Bangkok and have one last night in the area around the airport. You won't believe how cheap and good the hotels are. To keep you entertained there is a swimming pool and a ton of places to eat, drink and do a bit of last minute shopping. Plus free airport transfers.



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History -

The first Lao Kingdom was called Lan Xang (the land of the million elephants) in 1353. Over the years there were battles with all the neighbours - Chinese, Thai, Burmese, Khmer and the Vietnamese.


Lan Xang split into 3 kingdoms - Luang Prabang (north), Vientiane (central) and Champassak (south). When the French came along they united the 3 territories into one entity and called it Laos which became a part of French Indochina, along with Cambodia and Vietnam.


When the Vietnam War began Laos declared herself neutral but the USA conducted a "Secret War" and Laos became the most bombed country in the history of warefare.

The Communist Pathet Lao backed by North Vietnam took control of the country in 1975 forming the Lao Peoples Democratic Republic.



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See -


Bangkok -

If it's your first time a walking tour around Rattakosin Island (the Royal Palace, Emerald buddha etc) would be a good idea. If you've been before a day at Ko Kret or Bang Kachao, two of Bangkok's riverine islands might be the trick. Have a look at Bangkok in Cities and also in the start of the Thailand trips.


Nakhon Phanom -

Wat Phra That Phanom

Ho Chi Minh's House

The Big Naga

The Former Governor's Residence - where King Rama IX and the Queen spent the night

3D footpath art


Thakhek -

Wat Phathat Si Khottabong - is an important temple and pilgrimage site in Laos by the Mekong.


Nakai - Buy petrol at Gnommalat before you go up the hill to Nakai

Enroute - Cave alley including the Elephant Cave (locals sheltered here during the secret (illegal) war) /  Buddha Cave (229 staues and 8 kms of bad road) / Tham Pha Nya Inh Cave (Holy cave with sacred turquoise water - no swimming) / Tha Falang (swimming hole favoured by the French in Colonial times - lock the bikes and look after your stuff) / Tham Nang Aen Cave (Biggest and most developed - coloured lights and underground boat tour which takes 2 hours)


Thalang - Fill up the tank before you leave

Enroute - Orchid Path a 900 metre trail that will take you up to the reservoir view point / 16km north are 2 traditional weaving villages Ban Nam Nian and Ban Sobia


Na Hin - Fill up at Lak Sao & Fill up @ Na Hin on last day of the loop

Enroute - the Drowned Forest / carved Buddhas / Dragon Cave ( has a restaurant, cafe, gift shop - it is well lit and you can walk in one end and out the other) / Cool Pool (there are food stalls outside) / Bomb Boats (For hire at Tha Bak)


Ban Tiou -

Kong Lor Cave

a thrilling 7.5 km boat ride through a limestone mountain to remote villages out the other side. A short walking section is illuminated to have a look at some of the features while the rest of the cave is dark. So a good head lamp will be useful here and in all the caves. It takes around an hour to get through to the other side of the cave. You can rent a bicycle and follow a marked route through the villages on the other side. You could spend an hour or so looking around and having a feed.


Lat Krabang -

The Suvarnabhumi Flea Market


Hua Takhe

an old canal side community from the Rama V days that has been turned into an art market




Do -


Bangkok -

High Tea at the Oriental


Nakhon Phanom -

Ride a bike along the river promenade and enjoy the scenery across the river. Have a workout on the public gym equipment along the way


Plant rice at Khao khun Mae


Thakhek -

Test ride the bike and visit the time consuming caves nearby

Go for a swim


Nakai -

Visit the Tad Song Sou waterfall - with cabanas, restaurant and bar

Visit the Nam Theun 2 Visitor Centre near the waterfall and learn the official story about the dam and the hydro electric plant that exports power to Thailand. Ride around the reservoir for the scenic view of dead trees sticking up through the water

Visit the local market


Thalang -

Boat trips, Fishing and Picnics on the reservoir

Boat trip down the river into the jungle for remote villages and swimming holes - ask at your guesthouse


Na Hin -

Visit the Limestone Forest Viewpoint

Hike up to the Nam Sanam waterfall


Ban Tiou -

Water sports / swimming / canoeing

Visit the local villge

Relax on your balcony


Lat Krabang -

Eat, Swim, Drink, Shop. Reminisce

Sky Lane aka the Happy and Healthy Bike Lane

23.5 km bright blue (regular) and purple (fast) bike tracks around the airport hoping to become one of the world's best. Lots of facilities like cafes, food halls and bathrooms. Also there is a kids fun riding park, outdoor fitness centre and other innovations. Can hire a bike and a helmet. Plus 1.5 km jogging track on low impact rubber.

Have a massage or spa treatment



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Eat -


Bangkok -

Karim Roti Mataba - near the hotel

Krua Apsorn - on the walking tour

Mont Nom Sod - for smoko - close to Krua Apsorn

Ghost Gate - Raan Jay Fai (Crab omelette) and Thip Samai - (Pat Thai in omelette) - famous eateries

Chinatown / Somboon Seafood / nahm / Charoen Krung Road - (near the main Sathorn Ferry Pier)


Nakhon Phanom -

At the Night Market

Aunt Kaew's Noodles

North of the town centre are some places with decks overlooking the Mekong

Thanks to a local population of Vietnamese there is good Vietnamese food to be had here like Good Morning Vietnam for example.


Thakhek -

Riverside Night Market

Good Pizza at your hotel


Nakai -

Sam Sep Restaurant - waterfront terrace, cordon bleu and Lao BBQ (Sindad)


Thalang -

Sabaidee Guesthouse has a nightly BBQ buffet

Loop Cafe & Restaurant - near the Cool Pool


Na Hin -

Sin Dat Bo Ing Hot Pot - Lao BBQ

Soup Lady - Noodle soups

Kop Jai Der Restaurant at Phu Man the Rock Viewpoint - zip line and spider net - 15 mins and 10 km west of Na Hin - spectacular views

Sainamhai Resort - Your place


Ban Tiou -

Your place or head into town for a change


Lat Krabang -

Suvarnabhumi Outdoor / Flea Market - an up and coming world street food destination



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Drink -


Bangkok -

Locally around Khao San Road and the Banglamphu area

Head out to one of the famous areas like Sukkhumvit or RCA


Nakhon Phanom -

During the festival you wont even have to think about it

At other times the riverside bars near the Night Market and after midnight is AEC Pub


Thakhek -

Six Friends Restaurant - cheap beer

Le Rendez Vous - popular indoor outdoor pub


Nakai -

At your Resort


Thalang -

Sabaidee Guesthouse has a bonfire and drinks after the BBQ buffet

Your place


Na Hin -

Bob's Bar - very close to your guesthouse


Ban Tiou -

Bar at the resort - riverside


Lat Krabang -

Rooftop of your hotel - or head out into the street and follow your nose

All Six to Twelve x En/r/oute - breakfast to late night with live music

Eat, Drink, Love - all you can drink house wine and local beer

Sky Bar 64 - overlooking the airport's runways



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Sundowners -


Bangkok -

Amorosa Bar - At Arun Residence opposite Wat Arun

Sky Bar - the one from the Hangover 2 movie - dress requirements - have a Hangovertini


Nakhon Phanom -

Sunset Cruise on the River's Cruise boat


Thakhek -

The riverside restaurant at your hotel and other waterfront bars

The floating restaurant


Nakai -

Sunset Resort & Restaurant - your accommodation

The Ghost Boat - food and drinks looking over dead trees coming out of the water


Thalang -

Sunset or Sunrise cruise on the reservoir


Na Hin -

The Limestone Forest Viewpoint


Ban Tiou -

The terrace bar at your resort


Lat Krabang -

Ploen Ploen Restaurant - sunset over the lake

Your hotel's rooftop bar

The Happy and Healthy Bike Lane




Tips -

  • Always lock your bikes securely and together any time they are out of your sight.

  • Definitely get travel insurance and read the fine print to make sure you are covered riding a bike.

  • Book your hotel very early if you are going to the festival in Nakhon Phanom. If you do it on Booking.com you should be able to get free cancellation up to almost the arrival date and pay when you get there. Breakfast included. It's a great hotel but not that close to the centre of town so you might want to have a scooter or bicycle available for your use. They should be able to help you out with this. There is a 7-11 next door at the petrol station for drinks and treats.

  • Get enough money in Thakhek to last the loop.

  • Crocs are very good for getting around wet caves and waterfalls




Safety -

Slow is safe. You will encounter many hazards along the way and the slower you are going the more chance you will survive them. Pot holes, animals, mad bus and truck drivers etc. On the roads in Asia there is one rule. Smaller things give way to bigger things. At least on a bike you have plenty of room to get out of the way.


Never ride out in the countryside at night time. Don't ride if you've been drinking. Wear shoes and a helmet. Check that your tyres are pumped up very firmly. Get petrol often. Check your bike out well before hiring it.


Don't let this scare you off what is a fantastic experience. Just bring your common sense with you and use it. 




Specialties -


Bangkok -

Moo Ping (chargrilled marinated pork on a stick), Khao Niaw (sticky rice) and Som Tam (Spicy Green Papaya salad). The latter two aren't originally from Bangkok but from where you are headed, the northeast and Laos. Eaten together they make the perfect meal. Get the pork from a street vendor and take it to a restaurant that does a great som tam. It likely evovled in Laos where they call it Tam Som so you're likely to be trying a few different versions of it over the journey


Another good use for sticky rice is to pair it with with mango to make a delicious dessert called Khao Niaw Mamuang.




Souvenirs -


Bangkok -

Jim Thompson Silk / Carved soap / Weird T-shirts


Nakhon Phanom -

Wat Thra That Phanom is surrounded by souvenir shops

Fire Boat replicas

Thai Fair sarong


Thakhek -

Beer Lao T-shirt / Lao Lao


Thalang -

Weavings


Lat Krabang -

I love Lat Krabang fridge magnet




Extra -

See Thailand and Laos in Countries


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