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Coromandel 2 Malabar
ITINERARY 🧾
Chennai 2N
Mahabalipuram 1N
Puducherry 3N
Yercaud 2N
Tiruchirappalli 2N
Madurai 2N
Mandapam 2N
Thiruchendur 1N
Kanyakumari 2N
Kovalam Beach 3N
Varkala Beach 4N
Alleppey 1N + 2N (& Kerala Backwaters Houseboat 2N)
Thekkady 2N
Munnar 2N
Fort Kochi 3N
= 1775 Km - 36 Nights - 15 Towns and 1 Houseboat
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Skill Level -
Unless you're a tuk tuk driver by profession you probably haven't driven one before. So you'll have to learn on the job. At handover one of the rental company's experienced drivers will give you a lesson. Have a few easy runs until you feel proficient at it. In 2006 two English girls bought a tuk tuk in Bangkok and drove it back to England and had a ball.
You can read about it in their book Tuk-Tuk to the road: Two Girls, Three Wheels, 12,500 Miles. It might give you some inspiration.
Your main worries are road conditions, weather, other drivers and animals on the road. So drive slowly, never drive at night, don't drink and drive, stay alert and use your horn a lot. Learn how the locals navigate traffic and do it the same way. Best if everyone is on the same page. Also find out local customs. In some countries if the vehicle in front puts on their traffic side indicator it means it's ok to pass. In other countries it means don't pass something is coming. When in doubt or when you can't see the road ahead be patient.
When - ⛱️
Late November to February is the best time. The monsoon rains have eased off and the temperature isn't too hot.
March - May is very hot. June to September is very wet. October - November hot, humid and afternoon rain.
Famous -
Madras Curry / Mulligatawny / Filter Coffee
Madras Curry Powder - ironically you can't get it in Madras (Chennai)
Marina Beach - Chennai the world's 2nd longest urban beach
2 Kovalam Beaches - one famous, one not
Trichinopoly Cigars - favoured by Sir Winston Churchill and Sherlock Holmes
Houseboat on the Kerala Backwaters
Kerala the world's Spice Capital
Drive India's most scenic road - Thekkady to Munnar
One of the finest natural harbours in the World
Tellicherry Pepper - Black Gold - TGSEB - Tellicherry Garbled Special Extra Bold - the world's highest rating for pepper
Highlights -
Mahabalipuram UNESCO World heritage Site - temples and monuments
Asia's largest seashell museum - 20,000 of them
Auroville - Experimental Cashless Universal City
Hill Stations - Yercaud / Thekkady / Munnar
The best Coffee, Spices and Tea Plantations
The Rock Fort Temple on a massive 4 billion year old rock
Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple - 73 metres high and 156 acres big
Bathe in Holy Waters and wash your sins away - three times, just in case you're really bad
Pink Flamingos - from Australia!
The southernmost point of India - where the Indian Ocean, the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal all meet
Two of India's top surf beach resorts
The Western Ghats - mountain chain
Stay in a tree house
Periyar Tiger Reserve - sanctuary for Elephants, Bengal Tigers and others
The rare and friendly mountain goats of ENP - UNESCO Nominated
The Paris of the East / The Athens of the East / The Alexandria of the East / The Venice of the East / The Kashmir of the South
Cuisines - Anglo-Indian (Raj) / Franco-Indian (Creole) / French / Tamil / Chettinad / Kerala
Budget - 💳
Low - this trip is designed for 2 people sharing the costs. Tuk Tuks are cheap and so is India. You can have a reasonable comfort level without having to spend too much. Some of the hotels in here will stretch the budget, but you might be looking for a bit of luxury after a few days tuk tukking. You should save money with walk in prices or just look and you'll find plenty of cheap places. Nice accomodation will buoy your spirits along the way.
Pack - 🧳
Normally. Don't forget some sun glasses, a waterproof jacket and those thick orange garden bags are handy to put around your bag to make them waterproof. Something warm for the mountains and a pair of gloves wouldn't go astray. A large day pack would be best to take with you. Unless you have a roof rack there won't be a lot of room for luggage. You can rent surf racks. Or maybe get one each. Take some dress up clothes for the hill station clubs.
Visa -
Almost everyone needs a visa for India. A tourist visa will give you plenty of time for this trip which should be between 90 - 180 days.
Click here to check what you need to do.
Flights & Airports 🧑✈️
Fly into Chennai International Airport (MAA)
which has direct flights to 65 destinations in 18 countries including the Middle East, Europe, Africa and Asia.
Fly out of Cochin International Airport (COK)
which has direct flights to 31 destinations in 13 countries including Europe, the Middle East and Asia.
Starting Town -
Chennai - not to long here. Just a couple of nights to arrive and get organised. Pick up your tuk tuk and get acquainted. Go for a bit of a test ride and check tyres and fluids etc. Why not head down the ECR (East Coast Road) to Kovalam Beach (Surf scene) and stop in at the Kipling Cafe for a meal. Stay in the Savera Hotel, there are a few other hotels, restaurants and bars in this area. You probably don't need to book all of your hotels on this trip. If it's peak season it would pay to book in Kovalam and Varkala beaches.
Rental -
Unlike motorbikes you don't get a lot of choice with tuk tuks. There is a surcharge for picking it up in Chennai and dropping it off at Cochin International Airport.
Click here to go to the website and book online.
Don't for get to take an International Driving Licence accredited with driving a car. This is all you will need to legally drive the tuk tuk.
Itinerary -
From the Coramandel Coast to the Malabar Coast this trip will be like nothing you've ever done before. Length of driving times have been kept to a comfortable level to make it a pleasant trip and give you plenty of time to stop off along the way. The longest day is 235 km and the daily average is 50 km.
Chennai 2N - 60 km - Mahabalipuram 1N - 100 km - Puducherry 3N - 235 km- Yercaud 2N - 170 km - Tiruchirappalli 2N - 140 km - Madurai 2N - 160 km - Mandapam 2N - 200 km -
Thiruchendur 1N - 95 km - Kanyakumari 2N - 95 km - (En-route go via the Padmanabhapuram Palace and the Mathoor Aqueduct) - Kovalam Beach 3N - 60 km
(En-route have lunch on the Floating Restaurant at Veli Village) - Varkala Beach 4N - 110 km - Alleppey 1N + 2N (and Kerala Backwaters Houseboat 2N) - 60 km - Thekkady 2N - 105 km - (En-route go to the Periyar Spice and Ayurvedic Garden and have lunch at Mountain Club (in Chinnakanal) - one of two old Planters Clubs in Munnar - great food
with outdoor seating and fine mountain views - take your bathers for the Infinity Pool) - Munnar 2N - 135 km - Fort Kochi 3N - Airport - 50 km
= 1775 Km - 36 Nights - 15 Towns and 1 Houseboat
If the trip is too long for you there are numerous points where you can just cut something out. You'll be missing out on something you'll never get back though. Better if you've got more time and can spend a little extra time in some of the places.
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Stay - B* are on Booking.com 🛌
You should be able to walk in to most hotels and get a room without booking - but if there is something you really like or it's a busy tourist place book it on Booking.com with free cancelation. Also it's worth checking out the specials especially on some of the more expensive hotels. Nice accommodation helps to keep the spirits up so most of these hotels are 3, 4 and 5*****. You can save a lot staying in cheap places but don't forget to treat yourself every now and then when something special comes along. Usually the most preferred and expensive place is at the top and they get cheaper going down. Specials and what rooms are available can change this along with other reasons.
You've got your own wheels so you'll be able to stay in some more out of the way resorts and not have to worry about public transport. Click on the Marker Map to see what they look like.⬆️
Chennai - "Gateway to the South" - in Mylapore - Madras
B* Parking - indoor and outdoor pools, Spa,
Parking - pool
B* Parking - pool
Mahabalipuram - "Mahabs" - near the beach
Find somewhere you like north of the temple on the beach
B* Parking - Pool, 2 restaurants
B* Parking - pool
B* Parking
SPLURGE
Parking - Olympic size pool, beachfront, Ayurveda and Wellness Spa, Bakery + 2 restaurants, Bar
Puducherry - "Pondy" - "Paris of the East" - In the French Quarter
B* Street Parking - Rooftop Pool, Bar, Rooftop Restaurant
B* Private parking nearby reservation needed - Pool, Bar, BBQ and sun terrace, Rooftop restaurant open air with sea views, seafood and tandoori
Hotel Villa Des Gouverneurs *** -
B* Public parking - Was the residence of the French Governor, garden and terrace
Yercaud - A Hill Station - "The Jewel of the South"
Grand Palace Hotel & Spa ***½ -
B.com* Parking - Infinity Swimming pool with a stunning view and bar, Restaurant, Roof Terrace, Full service Spa - worth the money
B* Parking - Spa, every room has amazing views, theme parties, campfire, Restaurant, Bar, dining area in rooms, cricket
Tiruchirappalli - "Trichy"
B* Valet Parking - Rooftop Rock Fort view Restaurant and Bar
B* Parking
B* Parking
Madurai - "The Athens of the East" - "City of Jasmine"
The Gateway Hotel Pasumalai Madurai ***** -
B* Parking - On a hilltop with views of Madurai and the famous temple, Pool, outdoor fireplace, BBQ, Restaurant, Bar, 62 acres of landscaped gardens, Ayurvedic treatment centre, Tennis courts, Moon Deck - dining under the stars with stunning views. If they only have Kings Suites on Booking.com it may look very expensive but don't worry their 'normak' rooms are much more reasonably priced.
B* Parking - For something cheaper and close to the temple, 2 restaurants - 1 rooftop, bar, snack bar, 24 hour desk, very good breakfast included
Mandapam -
Joe's Beach Shack - Beach resort, Ramanathapuram -
B*Parking - Outdoor swimming pool, restaurant, patio with garden view, beachfront, bidet, breakfast included
Thiruchendur -
Parking - Pool, BBQ
Otherwise there are plenty of hotels to choose from
Kanyakumari - "Cape Comorin" - "The Alexandria of the East"
Sparsa Resort Kanyakumari *** -
B* Parking - 2 pools, tennis, 5 min walk from sunset point, sea views, Restaurant, Bar - Land's End, Beachfront
Valet Parking - Sunrise views, terrace, restaurant, private beach, ATM
Kovalam Beach - "Paradise of the South"
B* Public parking nearby needs a reservation and a slightly larger fee $2 day - Beachfront, terrace, views of the lighthouse
B* Private parking nearby for a small fee $1 day - garden, terrace, 2 minutes to lighthouse beach
Parking - 3 minutes to Lighthouse beach, terrace, tour desk
B* Parking - Swimming Pool, 50 meters from Lighthouse beach, Restaurant, garden, sun terrace, Bike hire, Spa, Massage, High Tea
B* Parking, reservation needed - 50 meters from Lighthouse beach, garden, terrace, sea views
Varkala Beach -
Krishnatheeram Ayur Holy Beach Resorts *** -
B* Parking - Tropical gardens, Swimming Pool, Ayurvedic Spa, Sun terrace, Restaurant, Sun lounge, library, gift shop, yoga
B* Parking - Beachfront, Restaurant, Bar, Garden, Bidet, Full English / Irish breakfast, Sun terrace, Bike hire,
B* Parking - good location, sea views
B* Parking - Balcony, Garden, 2 restaurants, cottages, 2 minute walk to the beach
Alleppey - "The Venice of the East" - Alappuzha
B* Private parking nearby for $2 a day - Restaurant, Garden, every room has a balcony with spectacular lake views, cycling, fishing, sunrise boat trip
B* Secured Parking - 2 swimming pools, fitness, spa and wellness centre, sauna, 2 restaurants, massage parlour, garden, tour desk
Time Square Boutique Hotel & Spa ****
B* Valet Parking - Restaurant, Garden, Terrace, Tour desk
Parking - very hospitable and honest and will give you good advice
Parking - very cheap, good location, tour desk
Thekkady - A Hill Station
TREE HOUSES - (ERUMADAMS)
B* Parking - only 2 available, Full English / Irish Breakfast, by a river, terrace, fishing, kayaking, walks
Kalpavanan Heritage Resort **** -
B* Parking - the double room with garden view is pretty much a tree house, set in a Cardamom Plantation, restaurant, BBQ, fireplace, garden, terrace
Vanya Tree House - back to nature, all inclusive, reached by a drawbridge that goes up when the sun goes down, you would need to park at their resort 4 km away and be transported by 4WD - Not Cheap but a good experience
cheaper but still expensive
Wood House - the house is up 30 feet in the air, no a/c, waterfall view, open air restaurant, camp fire, open jeep forest safari, Ayurvedic massage, hikes, cheap
RESORTS
Cardamom County by Xandari **** -
B* Parking - Organic garden, Ayurvedic massage centre, Fitness centre, Outdoor pool, Restaurant, Bar, Cottages, Cooking classes, fishing, Outdoor fireplace
B* Parking - Outdoor pool, great tree house cafe, restaurant, surrounded by dense forest, campfire, Tandoor by the pool with cultural performances
Abad Green Forest Thekkady *** - B* Parking - Outdoor pool, in 3 acres of woodland, Ayurvedic Spa, Wellness and Massage, Restaurant
B* Parking - Rooftop pool, Restaurant, all rooms have a balcony or terrace facing greenery - cheap, go for a family room
SPLURGE
B* Parking - Stunning view over the infinity pool, Garden, Terrace, Bidet, Restaurant, Spa and Wellness Centre, BBQ, Outdoor fireplace - Insane views from all areas of the Suites
Munnar - A Hill Station - "Kashmir of the South"
TREE HOUSES - (ERUMADAMS)
Valet Parking - can book on Hostelworld, good price, eco-friendly, nice patios, restaurant, camp fire, nice views
B* Parking - a Cardamom and Coffee Plantation, Rustic, has a small river, local women prepare authentic meals for the restaurant, Breakfast and Dinner included, campfire, plantation and waterfall walks, BBQ, fishing, hiking - they also have Luxury Tents and Rock House rooms
Kaivalyam Wellness Retreat **** - aka Sitiram Mountain Retreat
B* Parking - includes breakfast, afternoon tea, yoga, cooking session, spice and tea garden walks, tea tasting, meditation and agnihotra - restaurant with pure vegetarian food only, Spa and Wellness Centre - the Chalet's are the Tree Houses - looks like 2 night minimum stay
B* Parking (Reservation Needed) - Mountain View and Garden View Tree Houses, garden
Nature Zone Jungle resort *** -
B* Parking - Eco-friendly oasis set in 28 acres 5700 feet above sea level
Dream Catcher Plantation Resort **** -
B* Parking - Pool
RESORTS
Amberdale Luxury Spa & Hotel ***** -
B* Parking- great price, stunning views, restaurant, garden, Spa and Wellness Centre, outdoor fireplace, BBQ, evening entertainment
B* Parking - mountain ,river and jungle views from all of the rooms, stay in a suite, restaurant, garden, BBQ
Gruenberg Plantation Haus *** -
B* Parking - located inside a tea garden, roof restaurant, garden and terrace
Moselberg Riverside Cottages *** -
B* Parking - Terrace, mountain and river views, restaurant, cycling,hiking,fishing
B* Parking - looking out over a tea plantation, restaurant
SPLURGE
B* Parking - Situated above the Ponmudi Reservoir, sunset view from the infinity pool, stunning views, Ayurvedic Spa, restaurant, outdoor fireplace, BBQ, garden, Sun terrace - not that expensive
Fort Kochi - "The Queen of the Arabian Sea"
The Fort Manor Hotel - Kochi Kerala **** -
B* Free Private Parking - rooftop terrace, close to restaurants, 5 mins from the main attractions
B* Free Parking - garden, terrace, restaurant, outdoor swimming pool, buffet or full English / Irish breakfast included, paid airport shuttle, spa and wellness centre, 24 hour desk, tour desk, close to main attractions
B* Free Parking (reservation required) - ATM, 24 hour desk, tour desk, restaurant, paid airport transfer, minimarket, close to main attactions - rooftop bar / restaurant
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About -
Fly into Chennai, settle in to your hotel in the historic neighbourhood of Mylapore. There is a music festival here in January you might catch. Sort out the tuk tuk, see the sights, eat a Madras Curry then hit the open road.
A short hop down the coast to the first destination to get used to your new vehicle. Take the scenic East Coast road down to a small fishing and surf village strewn with UNESCO world heritage temples and monuments from the Pallava dynasty. On the way stop in at Bay View at Kovalam surf beach for a seafood lunch by the sea. If you didn't come here yesterday. Or maybe breakfast at the Kipling Cafe.
Pondicherry or Puducherry is rare in India because it is a French Colonial town. The French didn't relinquish power until 1952 and some people still speak French here. Stay in the French Quarter and enjoy cafes, patisseries and French restaurants. This seaside town has beautiful promenades and a lively nightlife. The book and it's movie the Life of Pi started here.
Nestled in the Shevaroy Hills is the beautiful little Hill Station of Yercaud. It is one of the least explored Hill Stations in India. The area was cultivated for Tea, Coffee, Oranges, Pepper, Cardamom, Apples and Pears by David Cockburn "the father of Yercaud" between 1820 and 1829.
Stay in the wonderful Grand Palace & Spa Hotel. Have a day to go on a Coffee Plantation tour and see some of the other sights. Leave a bit of time for the stunning pool and bar back at the hotel.
Continue heading south to "Trichy" a city that has been around since the 3rd century BC. It is world famous for its cigars that Winston Churchill was never seen without. It is also in the top 10 of India's cleanest cities. Stay in a hotel with a rooftop bar and restaurant overlooking the amazing Rock Fort Temple that sits atop a massive rock said to be nearly 4 billion years old. Have a free day to see this and some of the other major sites around town.
Madurai is another place that's been around for a while. It was the 4th century when a visiting Greek wrote about it. This time you'll be out of the city in a serene mountaintop resort with beautiful city views of the famous temple and a swimming pool. Have a couple of nights here to relax and take things at an easy pace.
Time to head back to the beach. If you look at a map it's pretty easy to see where Sri Lank was once connected to India at Adam's Bridge and this is where you're headed. Stay on a quiet little beach and eat freshly caught fish out of little beach shacks on the sand. Enjoy getting in the water for some activity. Head over to the Island City to see the holy sites and wash your sins away. See the ghost town, some pink flamingos and the train bridges over the sea.
Just in case you didn't clean off all of your sins there is holy bathing at your next destination too. Spend the night in the beautiful little coastal town that is a popular pilgrim destination. It has a nice beach and is a popular spot for local tourists so there are plenty of hotels and restaurants.
Keep heading south until you can't go south anymore and you'll be at what the British called Cape Comorin. Another popular pilgrim destination with holy waters so keep scrubbing. This is a great spot for sunrises and sunsets. You'll find there seems to be something in the air here and it's an exciting place to be.
Time to leave Tamil Nadu and head into "God's Own Country" - Kerala. first stop is the famous beach resort of Kovalam. On the way have a look at Asia's largest wooden palace and one of the longest and highest aqueducts in South Asia. Stay on the most popular beach (Lighthouse Beach) and enjoy a bit of down time. This place became one of India's tourist hotspots when it became a part of the "Hippy Trail" in the 1970's.
Head straight up to another quite different but just as wonderful beach resort at Varkala. This one has a cliff looming over the beach lined with restaurants, cafes and accommodation. It's a brilliant spot to sit and watch the sun go down. The nightlife is lively too. It's only about an hour and a half down the road so why not stop en-route for a floating lunch at the Veli Lake Tourist Village. Have a look around while you're there.
Further up the coast are the glorious backwaters of Kerala. Stay beside the beautiful lake in Alleppey and organise your houseboat trip. you don't need to book it beforehand as there are plenty of houseboats and you'll get a much better price and see what you're getting on the spot. Don't forget to stock up on booze.
Here is a checklist of things to check before agreeing to a boat.
Head for the hills. You've been at sea level long enough. The jungle and spice centre of Thekkady is beckoning. Stay in a Tree House, in a Jungle Resort or on a Spice / Tea / Coffee Plantation or all of the above. There are Tree Houses at the next place also. Go for a cruise in the Tiger Sanctuary and visit a Spice Plantation. If you are short on time one of the better Spice Plantations is en-route to your next destination.
The road between Thekkady and Munnar is said to be the most scenic in India. Travel via Thekkady - Udumbanchola - Pooppaara - Devikkulam & Munnar
Another Hill Station which is famous for its Tea Plantations. The British East India Company wanted to break the Chinese monopoly on tea growing and this is the result. It has some of the world's highest growing tea and has been producing tea since 1880. It is a very scenic area and there is a good choice of Tree Houses and Resorts to choose from. Kick back and feel the serenity. Head out to the plantations and factory to learn all about tea and how it gets to the stage we see it at in the supermarket. Do a few tastings and become a tea expert.
Alas all to soon the trip is nearly over and you have one more leg to go. Fort Kochi has a lot of history and it goes way back. Vasco da Gama lived (and even died) here! By opening up a sea route to India it spelled the beginning of the end for the Silk Road. This area was the centre of world spice trade.
It is considered to have the finest natural harbour in the world and was once a major trade hub. The French, English, Chinese, Portuguese, Dutch and Jews have all strived for supremacy here which is why it such an exotic fusion of cultures.
Enjoy the sights and there are some nice restaurants here and a bit of nightlife as well. Drive yourself out to the airport and head home. It may be easier to hand the tuk tuk back in town and just get the normal transportation out to the airport.
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History -
The history of South India goes back over 3,000 years. More recent times has seen it split into many kingdoms fighting each other for supremacy. The Europeans started arriving in the 15th century. The British ended up having the most power through the efforts of the British East India Company. The French still retained power in Pondicherry. After independence the area was organised into 4 states. Rice is the diet staple and spices and coconut milk are used extensively.
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See -
Chennai -
Fort Saint George - built by the British East India Company in 1653 - it has a museum with relics of the Colonial days - closed Fridays
Vivekananda House - houses a permanent exhibition of the life of Swami Vivekananda. he was famous for introducing Hinduism to the west and a ground breaking speech he gave in Chicago in 1893.
Mahabalipuram - UNESCO World Heritage Site
Shore Beach temple / Panch Rathas (5 stone chariots from the Mahabharata) - good to see in the afternoon light at sunset
Seashell Museum - Asia's largest with 20,000 shells. It has an aquarium with sharks and other sea creatures.
Mahabalipuram Lighthouse / Krishna's Butterball / Arunja's Penance (may be the world's largest bas relief) / Tiger Cave
Puducherry -
Auroville - an experimental, cashless, spiritual community that welcomes everyone and promotes peace and harmony. Healing, garden, beach (dangerous for swimming), market, cafes and the sci-fi looking meditation centre are some of the drawcards. They have accommodation out here if you really like it.
The Botanical Gardens - which served as the Zoo in The life of Pi - they have a toy train and dancing fountains (on weekends)
Pondicherry Museum - including items from when they used to trade with the Roman Empire. The history of this region goes back 2,000 years
Yercaud -
Emerald Lake - row boats and pedal boats
View Points - Lady's Seat / Arthur's Seat / Pagoda Point / Tipperary Viewpoint - wonderful views of the mountains, town and the lake especially and sunrise and sunset
Killiyur Falls - very picturesque 3,000 foot waterfalls
Tiruchirappalli -
Rock Fort Temple - 400 barefoot steps to the top. Very impressive especially when it is lit up at night.
Teppakulam - Temple Pond at the bottom of the Rock Fort temple bordered by bazaars. You may have heard of Clive of India or seen the curry powder bearing his name in the supermarket. He was based here when he led the Siege of Tiruchirapalli in 1752.
Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple - 73 metres high and covering 156 acres this Hindu Temple dedicated to Vishnu is like a small city within a city. It has shops, restaurants and a rooftop viewpoint. It is a major pilgrimage site for Hindus and only they can go into the inner sanctum.
Tropical Butterfly Conservatory - one of the largest in Asia in over 25 acres of forest on an island in the middle of the Kollidam River. Closed Tuesdays. Open from 10am to 5pm and it's best to go early or late as they rest a lot during the day.
Railway Heritage centre and Museum - a lot of items from the days of the British Raj plus a toy train for joy rides.
The Grand Anicut Dam - one of India's greatest engineering feats. Built 2,000 years ago, modified by the British it diverts the river into numerous streams for irrigation and prevents flooding. And it still works! A bridge has been added and you can drive over the top of it.
Madurai -
Meenakshi Temple - a living temple and popular place to be married. It is one of the most famous temples in Southern India and an important place of Hindu Pilgrimage. Strict dress rules apply - no shoulders or legs exposed for either sex and hair up for the ladies.
Gandhi Memorial Museum - after his visit to Madurai he started wearing the iconic white loin cloth called a dhoti. He did this so he could identify with the poor people he was representing. The blood stained one he was wearing when he was assassinated is one of the items in the museum.
Mandapam / Rameshwaram -
Ramanathaswamy Temple - one of India's holiest shrines and pilgrimage site with a famous 1,200 pillared hall
Dhanushkodi - Ghost town left over from a cyclone in 1964 which devastated the town and took out a train as well. The railway line terminated at a pier from where the ferry to Sri Lanka left from. A chian of limestone shoal go al the way over to Sri Lanka 18 nautical miles away. It is said that you could walk across Adam's Bridge to Sri Lanka before it was destroyed by a cyclone in 1480.
Arichamunai Bird Sanctuary - Pink Flamingos all the way from Australia (maybe) between December and March
Thiruchendur -
Tiruchendur Murugan Temple - famous 2,500 year old temple by the sea side from which the Dutch stole an idol. It was recovered in interesting circumstances. People who visit the temple have a holy dip in the sea then rinse off in the sacred spring. See below. When the Boxing Day tsunami of 2004 arrived it destroyed everything around the temple but didn't touch the temple. There are many eye witnesses who will attest to this.
Kanyakumari -
Vivekananda Rock Memorial - the Swami mentioned in Pondicherry spent 3 days meditating here which transformed him into the leader he became. There is a life size bronze statue of the Swami in a large pavilion and information on his life. It is a 15 minute ferry ride away
On the neighbouring island is a huge statue of the great Tamil poet and philosopher Thiruvalluvar. You can climb up the stairs inside of him. The same ferry comes over here too.
The Gandhi Memorial - his ashes were sent to various parts of India and this was one of them. They have since been put into the sea. There is a hole in the roof where the sun shines through on his birthday to where the ashes were once placed.
Ramayana Darshanam - an illustrated exhibit of the Ramayana which is all about the things you have been seeing along the way
Mayapuri Wonder Wax - local wax museum and 3D paintings inside the Baywatch Waterpark
Kovalam Beach -
Some of the nearby beaches
Varkala Beach -
Some of the other beaches, fishing villages and Edava Lake. There is also a Fort and Lighthouse around here.
Alleppey -
Alleppey Lighthouse - has a small museum and great views of Alleppey
Thekkady -
The Periyar Tiger Sanctuary - by boat, by raft, by jeep, by foot, by night - it has Birdlife, Asian elephants, Sambar deer, Indian bison, Leopards, rare Lion-tailed Macaques, Wild dogs and pigs and .....Bengal TIGERS!!
Munnar -
Tea Museum - a model of a working tea plantation out on Tea Museum Rd
See a Tea Plantation before you go to the factory to see how it's processed. It depends on where you decide to stay as to which one is most feasible. Perhaps try the Pallivasal Tea Garden.
Lockhart Tea Factory - guided tours, tastings and a museum
Blossom International Park - colourful and rare flowers in a park where you can go biking, skating or boating
Fort Kochi -
Fort Kochi Jail and Museum - built to hold freedom fighters
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Do -
Chennai -
Georgetown Bazaar Walk - with Chennai Magic
Visit Marina Beach and take in the view from Chennai Lighthouse
December to April - is turtle nesting season and in March and April hatchlings are released
Mahabalipuram -
Go for a surf / ride a bike around the sights / Climb the stairs in the Lighthouse
Puducherry -
Go surfing - at beautiful Serenity Beach - boards, lessons and great restaurants available
Diving - crystal clear waters and a wealth of marine life
Paradise Beach - and Chunnambar backwaters boat trip (from Chunnambar Boathouse) - cleanest and most beautiful beach only reachable by boat, food available and they have famous night parties here with DJ's
Sita Cultural Centre - for lessons on cooking, yoga, Ayurveda, dancing and painting.
Pondy Cycle Tour / Immaculate Conception Cathedral / Heritage Walk
Have something to eat at Le Pondy Beach Resort then go for a swim in their impressive pool
Yercaud -
The 32 km loop road - very scenic drive directly north of the town going through villages and past coffee plantations (Gowri Estate is one of the best) and to -
The 150 year old Cauvery Peak Coffee Plantation for a coffee experience tour - 1.5 hours - 8am - 3.30pm - no booking needed - can do in the tuk tuk and a trained guide will come along - goes through the whole process from the growing, roasting etc and has a coffee museum.
They combine their tours with horse riding if you are into that
ATV, Dirt Bike and Dune Buggies - at Grange Off Road Adventure, 100 acres of stunning woodland to play in as well as all sorts of adventurous activities
Tiruchirappalli -
Wander down Big Bazaar Street to Ghandi Market
Madurai -
Have an Ayurvedic massage by the pool
Maariamman Kovil Teppakulam - take a boat trip around this amazing temple tank, if it's got water in it. Otherwise go and watch the kids play cricket and maybe join in.
Visit the banana market - 16 varieties - and India's largest Jasmine market
Walking tour - "Once upon a time in Madurai", they also run Spice and Food tours
Athisayam Amusement & Water Park - 70 acres of fun and cooling down with a 7D theatre for something truly different. Food available. The largest Water Park in India.
Mandapam / Rameshwaram -
Agnitheertham - wash your sins away in the 23 holy water bodies around the temple. In every one and in the correct order. Get an Ayurvedic Spa treatment from one of the nearby hotels.
Take a train ride over the sea bridges
Water sports - this is the Kite surfing capital of India, plus diving, snorkelling, kayaking and SUP
Thiruchendur -
Swim in the holy sea
Nazhi Kinaru - is a sacred well fed by a freshwater spring 100metres south of the temple that devotees clean themselves after swimming in the sea.
Kanyakumari -
Treveni Sangam - powerful and sacred spot for bathing where the oceans come together - have a look at the Tsunami Monument nearby
Kovalam Beach -
All of the usual water sports + surfing
Climb up the lighthouse (or take the lift) for spectacular views up the coast
Have some Ayurvedic treatments or massage / Yoga
Varkala Beach -
Visit the medicinal mineral springs for bathing and drinking
Surfing - this is one of the best surf spots in India, the biggest waves are before and after the monsoon but are more suited o the pros. In winter December to February they are smaller and perfect for beginners.
Swimming - here will also wash your sins away so feel free to play up
Ayurvedic - massage, cupping, reiki, hot oil in your third eye
Boat trip through the tunnel of Love
Canoe the backwaters / Cooking lessons / Help the fishermen with their nets / Get some Henna
Alleppey -
Backwaters Houseboat Trip
Thekkady -
Visit a Spice Plantation - Abraham's Spice Garden is a family run place opened in the early 1950's. The tour takes an hour or more and includes medicinal uses of plants - Green Park is another larger one
Jeep Safari - off road through the forest, past waterfalls and Spice Plantations
Jungle Night Patrol - includes a late night walk in the Periyar Tiger Reserve - with an armed Forest Guard
Munnar -
Visit Eravikulam National Park - to see the friendly, rare and endangered Nilgiri tahr (Alpine Ibex) mountain goats. After they were nearly wiped out by poachers the British tea company that owned the land stepped in and made it a protected sanctuary.
Normally timid and fleeing humans the tahrs in the tourist zone are totally unafraid and mingle with the tourists allowing themselves to be petted and photographed. They are amazingly sure footed and can climb sheer cliffs that would cause any other animal to plunge to its death. This is a handy way to elude predators such as the leopards in the park who have been preying on them.
Golf (9 Holer) and Squash at the High Range Club
Quad bikes and Zip lines - at Dreamland Fun & Adventure Park along with camel and horse rides, mountain biking and a cable car
Ayurvedic treatments and massages
Fort Kochi -
A Walking Tour - including the Chinese fishing nets / Waterfront Granary Hotel / Jewtown / The International Pepper Exchange (the only place in the world that uses pepper as currency) / Jew Street / The Mattancherry Palace / The Jain temple (at 2.15 pm sharp to see the pigeons) / Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica / Princess Street / Vasco House / The Saint Francis CSI Church / Malabar House (Beer O'clock) and the Dutch Cemetery
====================================================
Eat - 🥘
Vegetarians are well looked after and likely to stay healthier
Chennai - Anglo - Indian Cuisine - centuries old recipes from the British Raj
The Madras Club (1832) and the Madras Gymkhana Club (1884) for their carefully preserved signature dishes from the British Raj. You'll need to dress up if they let you in. Or you could try The Verandah at the Taj Connemara which has an Anglo- Indian buffet on Saturdays.
Wild Garden Cafe at Amethyst -
very popular with ex-pats, all day breakfast, afternoon teas and a mix of other stuff, lovely garden and eating areas.
Mylapore - Mylai Karpagambal Mess - authentic Chennai cuisine / Rayars Mess - off of Arundel St has been going for 70 years, try the Mashed Potato Patties and Filtered coffee / Jannal Kadai - Ponnambala Vathiyar St for vegetable bajjis and other snacks
Adyur - upmarket neighbourhood known for its good food. Chennai Magic does food walking tours through here. They also organise cooking classes.
for curry in a hurry
opened in 1948 for Tiffin, South Indian
Ponnusamy Hotel - famous for its Bahubali Thali Platter with 50 items. Don't attempt this alone.
bizarre but wildly popular combinations at Alwarpet
many Tamils returned to Chennai from Burma due to the political unrest and they brought their cuisine with them.
down the beach for a seafood feast
Mahabalipuram - Fishing village with fresh seafood
for seafood
Le Yogi -
North Indian, seafood and sea views
beachside restaurant at Raddison Blu
on the beach
Siesta -
rooftop seating
Puducherry - Creole Cuisine - Franco - Tamil fusion
Le Cafe -
24 hours, waterfront, famous, popular, ice cream, people watching, souvenirs and top of the list
Whisky teas, coffee, cakes and great food - close to the hotels
French treats plus mains
great for brunch, savoury and sweet crepes plus a souvenir shop
Satsanga -
al fresco seating and possibly the best cafe in town
Auroville Bakery and Boulangerie -
garden seating and cinnamon rolls
Zuka -
a must for chocoholics
another one of the best, great breakfast and sweet treats
for a good French meal
rooftop terrace with fusion dishes - Kasha ki Aasha also rooftop - Lighthouse Rooftop Grill
STREETFOOD 🍢
Mutton Samosas - look for the lines opposite the Railway Station before 7pm
Mushroom Bondas - Mission Street, early evening until sold out - also look for mutton rolls
Ranga Pillai St - famous seafood cart opposite Nilgiris Green Field
for your afternoon ice cream hit
Yercaud -
Rooftop restaurant at the hotel
famous local featuring South Indian
preserving lost recipes
open air with great views of the lake, mix of cuisines east and west
Tiruchirappalli -
for views over the Temple Pond and vegetarian Thali
Lunch at Chellamal Samayal -
vegetarian specially cooked in clay pots over fire. Solely run by women and featuring regional dishes from Tamil Nadu served on banana leaves
Thendral -
roof garden with BBQ and tandoori
Kannapa Chettinad Restaurant -
for high class Chettinad cuisine
Madurai - Food Capital of Tamil Nadu
Moon Deck - outdoor bespoke dining with city light views at the hotel
rooftop restaurant
has the best South Indian in town
famous in this region, see if you can keep it down 😂
Mandapam / Rameshwaram -
seafood
My Home - ice cream nearby - ShakeS & SnackS
Thiruchendur -
at the Hotel Udhayam International
Kanyakumari -
chopped fried parotta (layered flatbread) egg and meat in a spicy sauce.
Appam -
pancake made with fermented rice batter and coconut milk. Fried on one side and steamed on the other.
Aval -
beaten rice mixed with jaggery (Palm sugar) and coconut.
at the Seashore Hotel, outdoor roof top with views of the 2 islands and their statues
Kovalam Beach -
great for an al fresco brunch
for....Swiss food
Beachfront promenade lined with open air restaurants
Varkala Beach -
laid back place with great masalas (seafood and veg)
Mama Kumari's - for a 14 course vegetarian extravaganza
Varkala has a large Tibetan population - great views from this wonderful rooftop restaurant. Try all the Tibetan staples and wash it down with some traditional Tibetan butter tea.
Cliff top garden with platters of tasty treats
Alleppey -
Coffee, chai, pastries and their banana walnut cake
Rooftop overlooking the Arabian Sea with excellent seafood
Mushroom -
Open air restaurant for tandoori and cold beer. Plus a signature Mushroom Soup.
Thekkady -
Ambara -
the coffee shop Tree House at Green Woods Resort for the experience alone, great views
great for brunch, or any time
rooftop restaurant with good views, ambiance and food
rooftop place with good food
Munnar -
dress up, step back in time and have a classic meal
Fort Kochi -
on an unused pier with a clear ocean view, Keralan cuisine like Prawn and Mango curry and try the stewed figs with vanilla ice cream
at the Old Harbour Hotel, by the pool with BBQ seafood platters
1788 Restaurant - Colonial style and a bar with water views, has some classic dishes from the days of the British Raj like Railway Mutton Curry
Seagull -
by the sea with good seafood and drinks
beautiful garden restaurant
with the Arabian Sea lapping at the windows try out their lobster dishes
====================================================
Drink - 🍺
Chennai -
For a refreshing drink that has been around for close to a hundred years
Filter coffee is a famous local staple
Chennai is home to Kollywood, local rival to Bollywood. Catch one of the local releases at the Sathyam Cinemas.
Bay 146 - in your hotel (Savera) DJ nights and live music
Sera - The Tapas Bar - very close and has music and dancing on a Friday night
Mahabalipuram -
Plenty of restaurants and shops in the Fisherman colony on Othavadai Street
Puducherry -
The city is not a part of Tamil Nadu so those alcohol taxes do not apply
Le Club / Bamboo Bar / Paradise Lounge / St James Court Beach Bar / Zero House Bar / The Rooftop Bar
Yercaud -
Tiruchirappalli -
On the roof - at your hotel
Madurai -
Surya -
rooftop restaurant at the Hotel Supreme for iced coffee
Sound and light show every night
Harvey's Lounge Bar at the hotel
Thiruchendur -
Kanyakumari -
The hotels have bars
Kovalam Beach -
Varkala Beach -
great place to start the day with a coffee and a mesmerising view
for cardamom coffee
very lively at night with DJ's and a big range of beers and cocktails
Many places along the cliff have happy hours and offer buy one get one free cocktails
Rock n Roll - have parties and play music late into the night
Garden Bistro / Sunset bar / Rock Cafe - all have live music and are open late
Alleppey -
running since Colonial times, locally famous for its range of coffees and South Indian dishes
in the Raheem Residency Hotel, relaxed beachside and serves beers during the day
or go to the bottle shop and drink at home by the lake and on the houseboat
Many of the restaurants in town serve alcohol
Thekkady -
Tribal Dancing, Shadow puppets, Martial arts
Hotel Bar
Munnar -
Punarjani Traditional Village -
evening cultural show - dance drama with stunning make-up
for the Gentlemen Planters opened as the Gymkhana Club in 1905 - step back in time to the British Raj - strictly formal dress after 7pm
Fort Kochi -
Club 18 -
has over 38 cocktails a 10,000 watt sound system and an outdoor pool
The XL Bar - cold beer and loud music
The Cochin Fort Hotel - has a beer garden
====================================================
Sunsets - 🌅
Chennai -
Head out early to the broken bridge (star of several Kollywood movies) to see the sun come up on the Bay of Bengal. Also good for sunset but don't hang around too long because it's a popular spot for criminals and ghosts.
like a carnival with amusement rides and food stalls. It is 13 kms long and is the 2nd longest urban beach in the world. (the longest is Praia do Cassino in Brazil) Forget about going for a swim because there are dangerous currents.
with cafes, restaurants and dessert shops.
1 hour climb to really see the sunset
down the ECR.
Mahabalipuram -
sunrise and sunset
Puducherry -
Stroll down the beachside promenade - no traffic between 6pm - 7.30am
Serenity Beach
happy hour 4pm - 7pm - beer and snacks with a view
Seagulls -
sea view balcony
Yercaud -
Sunrise or Sunset from anyone of the viewpoints
Tiruchirappalli -
Sunrise and Sunset at the Rock Fort Temple
Madurai -
Sunrise or Sunset at Samanar Hills -
rock caves where Jain monks used to live with drawings and a Lotus Temple
Mandapam / Rameshwaram -
Thiruchendur -
Down the beach
Kanyakumari -
Some of the best sunrises and sunsets in India. Sunrise looking out to the Thiruvalluvar statue or Sunrise Point and Sunset from Sunset Point viewing tower. At certain times of the year the moon rises as the sun sets. Kumari Amman Temple is another sunset watching spot. The only place in India where you can see the sunrise and sunset.
Kovalam Beach -
Everywhere / The Sky Bar / The Lighthouse / Curry Leaf Restaurant / WWW rooftop bar at The Turtle on the Beach / Edakulla - between Lighthouse and Hawah beaches
Varkala Beach -
Everywhere - crystal clear waters with dolphins swimming around at sunset.
Alleppey -
From the houseboat - see the sunset make the Kerala Backwaters even more stunning.
Alleppey Beach - can get a feed and a drink with great sunsets but
don't swim as there are strong currents
At Alleppey Beach with a lighthouse
Thekkady -
a picturesque location for a mesmerising sunset
7 am boat trip for an amazing sunrise on Periyar Lake
Munnar -
for Sunrise or Sunset
Fort Kochi -
At the Chinese fishing nets
Sunset Cruise - past the Chinese fishing nets
Vasco da Gama Square - by the beach
====================================================
Tips -
· Rinse your Thali leaf with bottled water before the food gets piled on it - it's not rude
· If you're looking for something to read why not try Ramayana, translated by Kamala Subramaniam
· Don't swim at Hawah aka Eve Beach at Kovalam as it has strong currents
Safety - 🛟
Don't leave your things in the tuk tuk unattended
Always park overnight in secure hotel parking
Don't drive at night / Don't drink and drive / Take a break if you're tired
Drive carefully and focussed / Don't rely on your brakes too much
Take corners slowly / Come down hills slowly
Be ready to get out of the way quickly / Fill up often / Check everything before you head off / Use your horn often
Have Fun
===================================================
Specialties -
Chennai -
Filter Coffee / Sundal - spiced chick pea snack / Ambur Biryani / Chettinad food
Mahabalipuram -
Miniature figures made of granite
Puducherry -
Macarons / Baguettes / Croissants / Sri Venkateshwara Sweets
Tiruchirappalli -
Madurai -
a medicinal coffee hundreds of years old made of spices, ginger and jaggery (palm sugar)
cool drink made of almond, condensed milk, sarsaparilla and ice cream
Mandapam / Rameshwaram -
Fresh fish and seafood
Kanyakumari -
Banana Chips / Cashews
Kovalam Beach -
Seafood
Varkala Beach -
Cardamom Coffee - at Coffee Temple
Alleppey -
Thekkady -
Tea / Coffee / Spices
Munnar -
Fort Kochi -
Banana fritters with Beef roast
Breudher - a yeasted bread from the Dutch
====================================================
Souvenirs -
Handicrafts from Auroville market
The gift shop at Le Cafe in Pondicherry
Pepper and Gowri Estate Coffee in Yercaud
Trichinopoly Cigars in Trichy
Painted shells (with your name if you want) - Kanyakumari
The Tibetan Market in Varkala for some interesting items
Buy spices in Thekkady which is famous for its plantations
Buy Tea from the plantations in Munnar
Tellicherry and Malabar pepper from the International Pepper Market in Fort Kochi
Curry Powder / A filter coffee maker / Kathakali Masks / Temple Paintings / Ayurvedic Oils
Keep an eye out for something Tuk Tuk related
Extra -
Have a look at India's Toy Trains in Train Trips and you can keep this trip going with Fort Kochi to Fort Bombay in Motorbike Loops and Tuk Tuk Trips
Doi Phu Kha Loop
Itinerary - 🧾
Bangkok 3N
Chiang Mai 2N
110km
Lampang - 2N
100km
Phrae - 1N
120km
Nan - 2N
90km
Bo Kluea - 1N
145km
Phu Lang Kha - 1N
160km
Chiang Rai - 3N
100km
Phayao - 2N
205km
San Kamphaeng - 1N
25km
Chiang Mai - 3N
=21N / 8Towns & 1,000 Km
VISAS 🛂
93 countries get a visa exemption for 60 days. Click here for details.
Thailand has a new digital arrival card system called the TDAC. You will need to fill it out 3 days before each and every arrival. It's free so beware of scam sites trying to charge you. Click Here.
About -
Stay by the river in the Banglamphu area not far from the famous Khao San Road. Have a look at Bangkok in 'Cities' and work out want what you want to see in the Big Mango.
Fly or overnight train up to Chiang Mai the Rose of the North. Get organised for your bike trip and have a look around and see why so many people fall in love with this place.
All set for the big adventure. Leave Chiang Mai at a time for your journey to coincide with showtime at the Thai Elephant Conservation Centre just before Lampang on the way past. Check into your rivrside guest house and go exploring.
Next stop along the road is Phrae. While you're here head out to the village that makes the iconic and egalitarian Mo Hom Thai work shirts. Buy a couple for yourself and some for presents and souvenirs. They make good travel shirts. Head to the Night Market in the evening.
On the way to Nan stop at the Phae Mueang Phi Forest Park (the Thai Grand Canyon - one of them) 18 km north of Phrae. Organise yourself a white water rafting trip at the local travel agent in Nan. It depends on the time of the year to how much water is flowing. Where to eat. There are a few bars and clubs in town.
An excellent day's riding today as you make your way to the Bo Kluea Resort. The ride to the resort over Hwy 1081 is a real highlight and one of the best motorcycle roads in Thailand. Enjoy a night at the resort which is a little out of the ordinary and has some great food.
Off to Phu Lang Ka Resort where you will have an early start for the famous sunrise. They will organise drinks from the local shop if you want and cook dinner for you. These are the sort of places you want to get off the beaten track for.
On the way to Chiang Rai stop in at Phu Sang hot water waterfall. See the White, Black and Blue temples / house. Play golf at the Santiburi Country Club. Visit Chiang Rai beach. Start the evenings in the Night Bazaar before heading to the nearby bars and then down the road to the clubs.
Phayao is an unknown gem of a place. Go to Wat Tilok Aram, the sunken temple in the middle of the lake for sunset. Ride out to see the attractions around the town. Eat salted BBQ fish by the lake and then head out to the great live music bars.
A bit longer ride today to the hot springs of San Kamphaeng. Have a treatment, a massage, cook some eggs and relax in the hot springs and spend the night here.
Check out "the Handicrafts Highway" on the way back in to Chiang Mai and have a few nights there to wind down before you go home.
====================================================
Skill Level -
Lots of hills but none too steep. If you can handle riding in the towns you'll be able to handle the countryside. Ride within your capabilities.
Highlights -
Elephant Conservation Centre - Elephantine artists 🐘
Thai Grand Canyon - and City of Ghosts 👻
Highway 1081 - one of the best motorbike rides in Thailand 🛣️
When -
October to January is best - you don't want to be riding in the rain
October, November is shoulder season and December, January is peak.
You really don't want to go during burning season which is January to March. It's hard to say when this is but October to December should be before it happens and you're probably okay through to early January.
Pack - 💼
Always take some wet weather and warm gear. It always rains on one day of the trip. Try to keep it light. Long johns are good. As is a spray jacket, gloves and a Garden bag to keep your pck dry. Octopus straps to hold your pack down.
Budget - 🤑
It's actually pretty good as the bikes are cheap, you don't spend much while you're riding and hotels out in the countryside are great value.
🛬 Airports -
Suvarnabhumi International Airport (BKK) -
there is a free shuttle service between here and (DMK) which has the cheap flights and airlines
Don Mueang International Airport (DMK)
Use a taxi to get here
Chiang Mai International Airport (CNX)
Take the official airport taxi into town
Starting Town -
Chiang Mai -
Flying from Bangkok is cheap, the overnight train is fun and the bus is the cheapest and least desirable option. The old Don Mueang International Airport (DMK) has the cheap flights.
Spend a couple of days organising the bikes and anything else you may need.
Cooking Classes 🧑🍳
Eat Khao Soi - Chiang Mai Laksa
Gaeng Hung Lay - Burmese pork curry
Sai Oua - Northern sausage
Khantoke dinner - and show
Check out the Night Bazaar and drink by the river, Loi Kroh and Nimmanhaemin
Rental -
Chiang Mai is full of rental places. Most with a pretty good reputation. Shop around and definitely take the bike for a test run and check it out thoroughly. Take a photo of any damage to it before you leave.
Make sure you get a decent helmet. the best sort have a flip down clear plastic visor which makes riding in the rain much easier.
For one person a 125cc Honda Wave has plenty of power. If there are 2 of you you might want to get something with a little more power. A Honda Forza is comfortable for two and has plenty of power.
====================================================
Stay - 🛎️
Bangkok
outdoor pool by the Chao Phraya River
Chiang Mai
On Loi Kroh Rd with lots of bars
Lampang
on the river
Phrae
near the Night Market
Nan
in the city centre
or next door at the
Bo Klua
scenic views and great food after a magic ride
Phu Langka
iconic sunrise
Chiang Rai
near the Night Bazaar
Phayao
great bars and live music
or have a look through this list
keeping in mind you'll want to be south of Thakwan Road and close to the lake
San Khampaeng - there are a few resorts around the hotsprings
Outdoor restaurant, pool, private tubs,
Sippa Hotspring Resort **½ -
Restaurant, 3 outdoor pools, massage
====================================================
Safety - 🦺
Slow is safe. You will encounter many hazards along the way and the slower you are going the more chance you will survive them. Pot holes, animals, mad bus and truck drivers etc.
A common phrase you will see in an accident story in the papers is "and the driver fled the scene".
On the roads in Asia there is one rule. Smaller things give way to bigger things. At least on a bike you have plenty of room to get out of the way. And you know where you stand in the pecking order - right at the bottom.
Don't let this scare you off what is a fantastic experience. It just means you don't need to rent a big powerful bike and go hell for leather.
When the road is good and clear you can still give it a handful and there is nothing like the feeling of cruising through the bends in the afternoon light with just a subtle shift of your weight.
The ever reliable 125 has plenty enough power to get you up the steepest hills. And they're incredibly cheap.
If you want some more comfort or there are 2 on the bike something bigger would be a good idea. The Honda Forza scooter is a good choice.
Short easy days are the way to go. You're on holidays. Don't ride in the dark. Ride within your capabilities, not out towards the ragged edge.
Famous -
Chiang Rai - White Temple - Black House - Blue Temple
History -
Until relatively recently this area was a hot bed of Communist guerrillas. One positive side effect for this trip is the good quality all weather roads that were built to open up the area.
See - 👓
Phrae - Phae Muang Phi - The City of Ghosts / the Thai Grand Canyon about 18 km north of Phrae on the way to Nan
Significant Temples / Buddha Statues
Thai Grand Canyon
Dragon boat race practice - from July to November
Doi Phu Kha National Park - the Pink Blossoms are out in February / March
Waterfalls / Caves / Chiang Rai Beach
Salt Wells
Handicraft Villages
Do -
Lampang - Horse and Carriage tour 🐎
Nan - White water rafting
Chiang Rai - Play Golf at Santiburi a magic course
Chiang Rai - Cooking Class
Chiang Rai - Off Road
Mae On - Hot Spring / Massage / Spa Program
Eat - 🍜
For Bangkok and Chiang Mai have a look on their pages.
Lampang -
Some restaurants
Old Market Street - Weekend Walking Street
Phrae -
Come in House
Night Markets
Boklua View at the Resort -
Lunch on the way to San Kamphaeng -
Sunsets -
Riverside - Lampang
Boklua View Resort balcony overlooking the Mang "River"
Phu Langka's famous sun rise - cross your fingers for morning mist around the limestone outcrops
Phayao - sunken temple in the lake
Drink - 🍹
Chiang Mai - Tap House - Live Music / Verachon Pub and Restaurant
Chiang Rai - Night Bazaar / Jetyod Road / Par Club / Sperm Pub
Phayao music pubs
Tips -
Pump up the tyres quite hard. If you put your thumbs in the centre of the tread you should barely be able to push it in.
Always lock your bikes together.
Maps from GT riders are very handy as is their website
All Thai towns have bar and club areas, just ask at reception
You can take your own bottle (bought at the local 7-11) into many Thai clubs and just pay for ice and mixers. It can take a fair chunk out of the evenings expenses.
Specialties -
Northern Thai Cuisine
Lampang -
Deep fried rice cakes drizzled with palm sugar
Deep fried Papaya Salad
Chiang Rai Night Bazaar - Hotpot
Souvenirs -
Lampang Thai Elephant Conservation Centre - Elephant paintings - Elephant Poo Products
Seua Maw Hawm (in Ban Thung Hong near Phrae) -
blue farmers shirts - popular, ubiquitous and egalitarian
Nan - Communist T-shirts and Caps
Extra -
Chiang Mai has an International Airport with direct flights to cities in neighbouring countries and as far away as South Korea - see Airports above.
Have a look at the other Motorbike Loops - Thailand, Myanmar, Laos and Singapore in Countries - Loy Krathong, Fire Balloons and Lao New Year in Festivals - Bangkok in Cities and Golfing Nomads and Chiang Mai in Cities.
Fort Kochi 2 Fort Bombay
ITINERARY - 📜
Fort Kochi 3N
Athirapilly Falls 1N
Palakkad 1N
Ooty Hill Station 4N (+ Coonoor 1N)
Wayanad 3N
Mahe 1N
Thottada Beach 3N
Bekal 1N
Udupi 3N
Dhareshwar Beach 1N
Gokarna 4N
Palolem Beach 4N
Vagator Beach 4N
Tarkarli Beach 2N
Vijaydurg 1N
Ganpatipule Beach 1N
Mahabaleshwar Hill Station 3N
Murud-Janjira 2N
Alibag 2N
Matheran 3N
Mumbai 5N (Fort / Colaba)
= 53N - 22 Towns & 610 Forts
Skill Level -
Unless you're a tuk tuk driver by profession you probably haven't driven one before. So you'll have to learn on the job after a lesson when you pick it up. In 2006 two English girls bought a tuk tuk in Bangkok and drove it back to England and had a ball.
You can read their story here.
Your main worries are road conditions, weather, other drivers and animals on the road. So drive slowly, never drive at night, don't drink and drive, stay alert and use your horn a lot. Stop and have a rest if you're feeling weary. Learn how the locals navigate traffic and do it the same way. It's best if everyone is on the same page. Also find out local customs. In some countries if the vehicle in front puts on their traffic side indicator it means it's ok to pass. In other countries it means don't pass something is coming. When in doubt or when you can't see the road ahead be patient.
When - 🌞
November to February is Winter and the best time to visit. The monsoon rains have eased off and the temperature isn't too hot. If you are doing this in conjunction with the Chennai to Fort Kochi trip start in November and you will have 3 months of good weather to complete this one.
March - May is very hot. June to September is very wet. October - November hot, humid and afternoon rain.
Famous - 🗽
Tellicherry and Malabar Pepper - from the world's oldest pepper market where peppercorns are still used as currency. TGSEB is officially the highest grade of pepper in the world. It stands for Tellicherry Garbled Special Extra Bold. Tellicherry isn't a type of pepper it's a grading standard.
UNESCO Heritage listed - 2 of India's 5 Toy Trains - the steepest track in Asia
The Ootacamund Club - play on the table where snooker was invented
Wayanad - the home of Pepper
Parameswaran's Special Wynad Pepper - Single Estate, Ripened on Vine, Hand Harvested, Sun Dried, Tiny Batches - the world's best
Tellicherry - The birthplace of Indian Cricket
2nd largest statue of Lord Shiva in the World
Goa's Beaches - North and South
Silent Noise Disco - at Palolem Beach
Kalavantin Durg - the World's Most Dangerous Fort
Dharavi Slum - the largest and most famous slum in Asia with 1 million residents and setting for Slumdog Millionaire
The Gateway of India - the exit gate for the British
Bollywood - the World's 2nd largest Film Industry
The Leopold Cafe - star of books and movies
Stay at the Taj Palace Hotel
Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat - the Largest Laundry in the World
UNESCO Heritage Listed Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus - Mumbai railway Station
Sanjay Ghandi National Park - the Largest city park in the World
Navi Mumbai - the Largest Planned City in the World
Antilia - the World's most Expensive house ≈ US$1.5 Billion
Highlights -
Athirapilly Falls - "The Niagara Falls of India"
More forts than you can point a cannon at
Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary - 8th on the list of world biodiversity hotspots
Muzhuppilangad Drive-in Beach - the only one in India
Bioluminescent plankton at Nirvana Beach
A Mountain load of Hill Stations - including the smallest and pedestrian only Matheran and Ooty the "Queen of Hills"
Sundowner - bar, sunsets and 3.4 billion year old rocks with good vibes
Malvan - India's best coral reef
Haji Ali Dargah - 1431 shrine, India's version of Mont Saint-Michel in France
Some of India's best beaches - famous ones and secret ones
Sunsets - in stunning locations, all the way
Budget - 💰
Low - especially if there are two of you halving the costs. Tuk Tuks are cheap and so is India. You can have a reasonable comfort level without having to spend too much. There are some good SPLURGE options if you want to take a little extra away. It helps to keep the spirits up if you have nice accommodaton so that is probably the main expense.
Pack - 🎒
Normally. Don't forget some sun glasses, a waterproof jacket and those thick orange garden bags are handy to waterproof your bag. Something warm wouldn't go astray. A large day pack would be best to take with you. I good quality LED headlamp is always useful. If you have a tuk tuk each there will be more room for your luggage or you could hire surf racks. Take some dress up clothes for the old colonial clubs up in the hill stations.
Visa - 🛂
Almost everyone needs a visa for India. A tourist visa will give you plenty of time for this trip which should be between 90 - 180 days.
Click here to check what you need to do.
Flights & Airports - ✈️
Fly into Cochin International Airport (COK) which has direct flights to 31 destinations in 13 countries with some major travel hubs included like London, Singapore and the UAE. (United Arab Emirates)
Fly out of Mumbai Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport (BOM) which has direct flights to 113 destinations in 37 countries to every continent except South America, Australasia and .... Antarctica.
Starting Town -
Fort Kochi - has a lot of history and it goes way back. Vasco da Gama even lived (and died) here! By opening up a sea route to India it spelled the beginning of the end for the Silk Road. This area was the centre of world spice trade.
It is considered to have the finest natural harbour in the world and was once a major trade hub. The French, English, Chinese, Portuguese, Dutch and Jews have all strived for supremacy here which is why it such an exotic fusion of cultures.
Enjoy the sights and there are some nice restaurants here and a bit of nightlife as well. Pick up your tuk tuk and get organised for the trip of a life time.
Rental -
Unlike motorbikes you don't get a lot of choice with tuk tuks. There is a surcharge for dropping it off in Mumbai.
Click here to go to the website and book online.
Itinerary -
Fort Kochi 3N - 80 km - Athirapilly Falls 1N - 120 km - Palakkad 1N - 140 km - Ooty Hill Station 4N (+ Coonoor 1N) - 120 km - Wayanad 3N - 110 km - Mahe 1N - 30 km - Thottada Beach 3N - 90 km - Bekal 1N - 130 km -
Udupi 3N - 140 km (En-route - World's 2nd largest Shiva statue in Murudeshwar) - Dhareshwar Beach 1N - 45 km (Pepper Queeen's bright green Mirjan Fort) - Gokarna 4N - 95 km - Palolem Beach 4N - 120 km (En-route - breakfast at Agonda beach, visit the Indian Naval Aviation Museum and have lunch on Bogmallo beach) -
Vagator Beach 4N - 110 km (En-route - lunch at the clifftop Fort Tiracal Heritage Hotel) - Tarkarli Beach 2N - 85 km - Vijaydurg 1N - 125 km (En-route - see Thibaw Palace where the British locked up the last King of Burma) - Ganpatipule Beach 1N - 192 km -
Mahabaleshwar Hill Station 3N - 145 km - Murud-Janjira 2N - 55 km (En-route - Korlai Village built by the Portuguese with a fort and lighthouse) - Alibag 2N - 95 km (En-route - stop in at D Samson's Soda Shop) - Matheran 3N - 95 km - Mumbai 5N (Fort / Colaba)
= 53N - 22 Towns and 610 Forts😕
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Stay - B* = Booking.com
You should be able to walk in to most hotels and get a room without booking - but if there is something you really like or it's a busy tourist place book it on Booking.com with free cancelation. Also it's worth checking out the specials especially on some of the more expensive hotels. Nice accommodation helps to keep the spirits up so most of these hotels are 3, 4 and 5*****. You can save a lot staying in cheap places but don't forget to treat yourself every now and then when something special comes along. Usually the most preferred and expensive place is at the top and they get cheaper going down. Specials and what rooms are available can change this along with other reasons.
You've got your own wheels so you'll be able to stay in some more out of the way resorts and not have to worry about public transport.
Fort Kochi - "The Queen of the Arabian Sea"
The Fort Manor Hotel - Kochi Kerala **** -
B* Free Private Parking - rooftop terrace, close to restaurants, 5 mins from the main attractions
B* Free Parking - garden, terrace, restaurant, outdoor swimming pool, buffet or full English / Irish breakfast included, paid airport shuttle, spa and wellness centre, 24 hour desk, tour desk, close to main attractions
B* Free Parking (reservation required) - ATM, 24 hour desk, tour desk, restaurant, paid airport transfer, minimarket, close to main attactions
Athirappilly - India's Niagara Falls
Athirappilly Rainland Resort ***-
B* - Parking - 800m from the falls, outdoor swimming pool, garden, terrace, restaurant, waterfall views from the rooftop, vegetarian breakfast, BBQ facilities
B* - by a river in the forest, parking, lake and river views, garden, exceptional breakfast included
Palakkad -
B* - Parking - outdoor pool by the river, fitness centre, spa and wellness centre, garden, terrace, restaurant, massage parlour
Diga Vista resorts - B* - Parking - lake views, BBQ, gardens, no internet
Ooty - formerly Ootacamund which was shortened to Ooty but then renamed Udhagamandalam also spelled Uthagamandalam but henceforth known as Ooty
The idea is to stay in a Raj era building with some colonial character. It would also be nice to be walking distance from the lake and the town. There is a lot of accommodation to pick from so you could drive around and find something you're happy with and get the right price. Here's a few to have a look at.
Club Mahindra Derby Green **** -
B* - Parking - set on 5.5 acres od landscaped greenery, restaurant with colonial ambience, Ayurvedic Spa, tour desk, 10 minute walk to the toy train station
Parking - relive the aristocratic life in a 150 year old colonial bungalow, spread over 3½ acres, enchanting views, Restaurant, Bonfire, fire places, palatial building, cliff jeep safari, welcome drink, fruit basket in room, complimentary newspapers
B* - Parking - 500m from shops and restaurants, coffee shop, tour desk
Parking - country house 4 km from the lake, garden, buffet breakfast, BBQ facilities, hot tub, outdoor fireplace, terrace, views
B* - Parking - 4 km from the lake, garden, sun terrace, breakfast, outdoor fireplace
B* - Parking - Colonial style bungalow, next to forest walks, 1km from the lake, bike hire, vegetarian breakfast, next to the Fernhills Palace, evening bonfire, beautiful views, terrace
B* - Parking - great views, indoor / outdoor restaurant, log fires in all rooms, horse riding, tea estate visit, Jungle Jeep ride, gardens
B* - Parking - superb view of the city, restaurant, Bar, BBQ, tour desk, Coffee Shop, outdoor fireplace, garden, terrace
Coonoor Hill Station -
awesome views of the Tea Plantations from your room, long walks in the Tea Gardens, Restaurant, Garden, Terrace, Shuttle service, BBQ facilities
B* - 1 km from the Railway Station, garden, tour desk, Restaurant, Outdoor fireplace
B* - A historic mansion built in the 1800's and set amidst a Tea Plantation, Restaurant, 24 hour desk, guided tour of the tea gardens, tour desk, terrace, very good breakfast included
Wayanad - Land of Paddy Fields 🍚
Tea Tours Ripon Heritage Tour -
B* - Parking - set amidst the lush tea plantations of Wayanad, outdoor swimming pool, restaurant - (also with brunch, high tea and cocktail hour), sun terrace, 24 hour desk, lounge, buffet or a la carte breakfast included, outdoor fireplace, BBQ, patio, garden, culture class, bike tour, walking tour, Coffee House
B* - Parking - at the top of a hill with splendid 360 degree views, restaurant, garden, BBQ, culture class, walking tour
B* - Parking - in the middle of a forest and coffee plantation with superb balcony views, cottages and bungalows, Restaurant - with Kerala cuisine + brunch and high tea, BBQ facilities, hiking trails, tour desk, outdoor fireplace, terrace, garden, cooking class, evening entertainment
B* - Parking - restaurant, garden, washing machine, hiking, cycling, BBQ, outdoor dining, outdoor fireplace
B* - Parking - surrounded by greenery and mountains, 2 swimming pools, Ayurvedic Spa and Wellness centre, fitness centre, restaurant, outdoor fireplace, garden, patio, Coffee House, Minimart, massage
B* - Parking - stunning views, infinity pool, garden, terrace, restaurant, BBQ, outdoor fireplace, Walking tours, cycling, Spa and Massage
Le Villagio Holiday Apartments **** -
B* - Parking - terrace, cycling, swimming pool, restaurant - buffet and a la carte, Coffee House, outdoor fireplace, garden, BBQ
SPLURGE
B* - Parking - Heritage Suites, Tree Houses and Pool Villas, Infinity Pool, set in a 200 acre coffee and spice plantation, Restaurant, Ayurvedic Spa and Wellness, Guided Plantation Walks, Open Jeep Safaris, cycling, fishing, canoeing, coracle rides, garden, terrace, patio, cooking class, culture class, massage
Mahe - Puducherry
B* - Parking - Terrace, French Restaurant, sun terrace
B* - Parking - good value, good location, breakfast included
Thottada Beach -
Ayurvedic resort in amongst the palm trees and on the beachfront, restaurant
Parking - Ayurvedic Spa on the beachfront, restaurant
B* - Parking - Outdoor dining, beachfront, sun terrace, sea view balconies
Ayurvedic beach front resort, restaurant
B* - Parking - restaurant, garden, private beach area, terrace, sea view balconies
Bekal -
on the beach overlooking the fort
B* - Parking for a fee - restaurant, terrace
Udupi -
Paradise Lagoon Spa & Resort *** - LOOKS GREAT
Parking - Great value for money, 2 Open air Restaurants (Bay Side and River Side both with sweeping water views) specialising in seafood and South Indian Coastal cuisine, outdoor infinity pool adjacent to the backwaters facing the sunset, 800m from Delta Beach, can stay on the houseboat, garden, buffet breakfast, outdoor fireplace, picnic area, sun terrace, Ayurvedic Spa and massage, paddle boat and motor boat, fishing deck, 2 km away from a surf beach, Beach Volleyball & Cricket - spread over 3 acres and surrounded on 3 sides by the pristine back waters of Karnataka - if you can afford it book out the houseboat, it's not that much - or at least get a suite with a view of the back waters.
Dhareshwar Beach -
private beach, restaurant, Ayurvedic Spa, 20 cottages, garden, party hall, bonfire, beachside dining
Gokarna - Cow's Ear
Work out whether you want to stay at Gokarna, Kudle or Om beach then have a look and see what you can get. If you want to book ahead on Booking.com you could try one of these. There are a few high end places at each beach if that's what you are looking for.
Gokarna beach
Parking - beachfront, restaurant, bar, garden
Deva Sumdra Beach Stay (Gokarna) -
B* - Parking - beachfront, restaurant, garden, cottages, outdoor fireplace, massage, Spa and Wellness Centre
B* - Parking - beachfront, garden, restaurant,
B* - Parking (reservation needed) - beachfront, good location near the market
Kudle beach
B* - beachfront
Om beach
Parking - beachfront, restaurant, bonfire, power backup
Palolem Beach - all bungalow, cottage or beachfront
· Have a look at these or try your luck when you get there
B* - Parking (reservation needed) - great part of the beach, beachfront location, restaurant - theme nights - outdoor dining, bar - happy hour, evening entertainment, bike hire, outdoor fireplace, BBQ, garden
Roundcube Beach Bungalows *** -
B* - Parking - restaurant, bar - happy hour, beachfront, garden, sea views and balcony, BBQ, sun terrace, snack bar
B* - Parking (nearby and fees may apply) - great location by the backwaters, beachfront, Bar and restaurant (wood fire with terracotta pots and tandoor station) at sunset point, fresh air style huts, massage, wellness packages, canoe hire, sun lounges on the beach
B* - Parking - 400 m from the beach, restaurant, bar, outdoor pool, garden, terrace, patio
B* - Parking - 150 m from the beach, restaurant, Coffee House, bike rental, water sports rental, massage
OR LAKESIDE
Parking - Spa, Restaurant, Activities, Relaxation
Vagator Beach -
Antares Restaurant & Beach Club
Parking - Beachfront, Restaurant, Swimming Pool - Claim to Fame
B* - Parking - beach front, outdoor pool, pool bar, restaurant, sea views, sun terrace, bike hire, Spa and Wellness centre
B* - Parking - Portuguese style cottages in landscaped gardens, outdoor pool, Ayurvedic massage, tour desk, restaurant, bar, Spa and Wellness centre
Tarkarli Beach - There are resorts & hotels all the way down the strip
Parking - Outdoor pool, restaurant, shared lounge, garden
B* - Parking - restaurant
Vijaydurg -
There are a number of hotels and resorts near the fort though they won't have a lot of stars
Try Hotel Suruchi on the waterfront
or the Hotel Vijaydurg Palace
Ganpatipule Beach - "The Gem of Ratnagiri"
Abhishek Beach Resort & Spa ** -
Parking (Charges) - outdoor pool, al fresco dining terrace, sea views, restaurant, fitness centre, bar, Japanese Day Spa & Sauna, tour desk, beachfront, massage
B* - Parking - beachfront, balcony, kitchenette, sea views from all rooms, sun terrace, restaurant, BBQ, garden
Mahabaleshwar Hill Station - there is a lot to choose from
Parking - restaurant, garden, terrace, outdoor pool
B* - Parking - 2 restaurants, 24 hour desk - outdoor swimming pool, BBQ facilities, outdoor fireplace
Murud-Janjira -
Colonial style architecture, direct access to the beach with views of the palace and the fort, restaurant, Portuguese style beach villas and Mediterranean style cottages, cheaper during the week
B* - Parking - all rooms have balconies and sea views, 2 outdoor swimming pools, restaurant, garden, terrace, 24 hour desk, beachfront
Alibaug - Busy on weekends with people escaping Mumbai
* Look around or maybe book ahead if you're here on the weekend - some of the prices will shock you
Parking - Outdoor pool - with pool bar, restaurant, bar - happy hour, garden, shared lounge, fitness centre, 24 hour desk , karaoke, buffet or vegetarian breakfast, Spa and Wellness centre, BBQ, cooking lessons, bike and walking tours, squash, massage
B* - Parking - close to the hills and surrounded by rice paddies, glamping tents, garden, outdoor pool, bar - happy hour, 24 hour desk, snack bar, sun terrace, restaurant - themed dinner nights, outdoor fireplace, sun terrace, BBQ, cooking and culture classes, bike and walking tours, open air bath, evening entertainment, Spa lounge, Coffee House - Boheymyan Blue Cafe
B* - Parking - Glamping, restaurant, breakfast included, close to the beach
Parking - swimming pool, restaurant
Matheran Hill Station - Mothers Wood - Don't come on the weekend
You cannot drive in the town, you have to park up at Dasturi and walk a couple of kilometres into town. These places are about a 4 km walk so you might like to get something on the way.
The Byke Heritage Pure Veg *** -
B* - Parking - indoor swimming pool, restaurant, bar / lounge, tennis courts, vegetarian breakfst included
restaurant, 24 hour desk, heritage resort
Outdoor pool, restaurant, garden
Mumbai - Stay in Colaba the Colonial Heritage District
END OF TRIP SPLURGE
The Taj Mahal Palace ***** 1903 -
B* - Parking - 10 restaurants, Taj Salon, landscaped pool - the best pool in Mumbai, designer label shops, Royal historical tour of the Palace Wing, Spa and Wellness centre, Fitness centre, bar, Coffee House, Steam room, sun terrace, BBQ - If you haven't seen the movie Hotel Mumbai, watch it after you've stayed here
The Taj Mahal Tower ***** 1972 -
B* - Parking - on the same site but a completely different building, they share the same facilities and it is a bit cheaper
The Gordon House Hotel Colaba **** -
B* - Parking - 600 m away from the Gateway of India, 24 hour desk, Bar, All Stir Fry Restaurant, Cafe Havana & Bar - retro nights
Hotel Harbourview Colaba *** -
B* - Parking - Rooftop terrace - Restaurant, Bar, 24 hour desk, Pub crawls, Coffee House
B* - Parking - Opposite the Taj Mahal Palace, great location and cheap
B* - Parking - Indus Cocktail bar & Tandoor
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About -
This is a big trip and will require a bit of time. If you need to trim it down a lot you could do Fort Kochi to Goa and leave the tuk tuk there. That will make it a month long and you'll save a bit of money on the drop off price. It would be very sad to miss out on what the state of Maharashtra has to offer though.
Fly into Cochin International Airport (COK) and out of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj International Airport (BOM) in Mumbai. Spend around 3 nights in Fort Cochi to have a look around this fascinating town and get organised for this epic road trip. Don't forget to go for a bit of a trial run before you take off just to make sure everything is okay. You could shoot down to Alappuzha and have a look at the Kerala backwaters. You could even take a houseboat out for a couple of days. Have a look at the Tuk Tuk trip "Coromandel 2 Malabar".
The first day's driving is around 80 km so enough to get settled in but not too tiring. You're off to India's version of the Niagara Falls. Many Bollywood movies have been shot on location here so it is popular with the local tourists. If you get here early enough 1 night should be enough time to have a look around. The best time to see the falls is between September to January so you're in luck.
Next day make your way to Palakkad situated where a natural break in the Western Ghats provides access between this state and Tamil Nadu. This has also let in culture and influences over the years. The area is famous for its Ayurvedic retreats so why not stay in one and get a treatment or two. There are a couple of other sights around as well.
"Snooty" Ooty - Queen of Hills was the hill station for Madras back in the day and it still retains its opulent colonial charm which makes it a popular destination for honeymooners. It is also one end of the famous Nilgiri Hill Mountain Railway (Toy Train) which runs from here to Mettupalayam. It's a beautiful area and worth spending a little time. The highlight is the train ride which will entail and overnight stay in another hill station named Coonoor.
Step back in time and visit the colonial relics, have a round of golf, visit the race track and have a game of snooker on the table where the game was invented. Feast on the local specialties like handmade chocolate, cheese and cakes.
Wayanad is famous for its spice, tea and coffee plantations. It is said to be the least populous and most attractive part of Kerala aka "God's Own Country" so that's probably saying something. Stay at a resort and take in the wonderful views and suck that mountain air into your lungs. Time to relax as well as see the local major attractions. Enjoy the refreshing tranquillity because you're heading back to sea level shortly.
Mahe is surrounded by Kerala but is a part of the Union of Puducherry (The smallest district in India) which was once a part of French India until 1954. It has a pleasant riverfront promenade and is a good place to stock up on booze. The Union has tax exemptions on alcohol and there are no restrictions on how much you buy. There are over 70 liquor outlets or "wine shops" as they are known locally. You would think some French food would be on offer but apart from French Fries and ice cream you'll be hard pressed to find anything. It's not exactly the French Quarter in Pondicherry on the east coast but you will find a few reminders around the place and strolling along the riverside walkway you just might imagine yourself in Paris. Just one night here to break up the trip to Thottada Beach.
Only a 30 km drive today so you have plenty of time to look around Thelassery aka Tellicherry on the way through. And there are a few things worth seeing as well as a few must eat places. If you're there long enough you can enjoy a sunset at the drive on beach which is just 6 km away from your beach resort.
Thottada Beach is an emerging star on the tourist horizon so it's a good time to go there. Covered in golden sand, framed by coconut trees and lush green vegetation and finished off with the bright blue warm waters of the Arabian Sea it is every beach lover's dream destination. Spend a few days relaxing in the sun and getting a few Ayurvedic treatments. Head into Kannur for a day's sightseeing for something different.
A short overnight stop in Bekal to break up the distance. Another couple of forts to see and this time you'll be staying just down the road or next door. This trip should have been called Fort 2 Fort 2 Fort via Fort 2 Fort etc...
Udupi is considered the final resting place of Lord Krishna so it is an important pilgrimage centre which is considered one of the holiest in southern India.. There is a famous temple here which is known globally and sees thousands of visitors a year. Stay in a fantastic resort by the river and enjoy the wonderful environment and local beaches at a very leisurely pace.
Long drive today - 140 km and a one night stay in a cottage in an eco-friendly beach resort. En-route you will see the 2nd biggest Shiva statue in the world. If you're lucky you might get dinner and a bonfire by the beach. Bioluminescent plankton is an unusual phenomena where the sea sparkles bright blue at night time. It is a bit like the northern lights and you need to be in the right place at the right time. It is hard to say when and where it will occur. Sometimes it can hang around for weeks, or days or not at all. It can happen at any of Gokarna's beaches but the most likely are Kumta and Nirvana beaches which are just up the road from here. Three days after the new moon will give you a chance. So if you feel like going for a drive.... It's actually a lot closer from here than from Gokarna.
No need to rush off today as you only have an hour's drive to you next destination. When you're ready make your way to the temple town that is blessed with an abundance of beautiful beaches - Gokarna. The 3 main ones you want to know about are Om, Kudle and Gokarna. The others can't be reached by road. Most travellers skip the main Gokarna beach which is popular with pilgrims. Om beach can get busy with day trippers and on weekends as it has easy road access. Back packers and people wanting to escape the crowds in peak season head to Kudle beach which is less accessible positioned between two cliffs. Have a look in the See section for a description of the beaches.
These beaches can have strong currents so be very careful especially on deserted beaches where there is no one to save you. Don't go in when the sea is rough. See if other people are swimming. Don't go past your waist. Don't dive under waves. If you're not a strong swimmer don't go in. People drown here!!
Some say this is the new Goa. Perhaps they should rename it Goakarna. But unlike Goa these gorgeous beaches are very affordable and uncrowded. Goa is more developed and sophisticated. Luckily you will get to enjoy both of them.
Have a look and see what you like and then find somewhere to stay. There are a few suggestions in the Stay section. Om Beach would be a good place to start looking and then maybe Kudle or Gokarna. The last two are a bit further out. It's a spread out area but with 4 nights you should be able to get around to most of it.
From one beach paradise to another. Next stop Goa. The southern Goan beach of Palolem is 1.5 km of powdery white sand lined with coconut palms and bamboo beach huts, bars and restaurants. There is some great sea food on offer too. It is one of India's best beaches and a lot of ex-pats who live here obviously feel the same way. It is also one of the safest to swim at. Grab some cash on the way in as at the time of writing there are no ATM's on the beach
You'll need a minimum of 4 days to enjoy the sun, surf and sand before heading off to northern Goa for more of the same. Same, same but different. The nightlife action goes up a few notches and so do the crowd numbers, touts and prices.
It's still a great place and you'll have a lot of fun here over 4 nights. It's a good place to have a splurge on some of the more top end eateries and bars. Sunsets are stunning here as well. Scooters are cheap and the beaches are a distance apart so you could hire one for a few days.
Change of scenery coming as you head up the Konkan Coast. From an international tourist destination to a local Indian one where you'll probably be the only foreigner. That's okay, the locals are friendly, the sea food is fresh and it will be a nice change of pace after Goa.
Spend a night in Vijaydurg up the coast and have a look at the Gibraltar of the East. Eat some fresh seafood along the waterfront as well. You'll be covering a few kilometres in the next few days. You'll be able to rest up in comfortable hotels and pamper yourself with a massage or spa treatment.
Next overnighter is at Ganpatipule Beach known as the gem of Ratnagiri. It's one of the nicest beaches on the Kolkan Coast and has activities and attractions to keep you entertained. Seafood and sunsets make a good double act on the way up this western coast.
You'll need an early start today as you tackle the longest leg of the trip - close on 200 km. You are heading for the hills again and a change of scenery. Mahabaleshwar Hill Station served as the summer capital for the Bombay Presidency. It is famous as the origin of five sacred rivers and for the quality of its strawberries and raspberries.
Relax up here and enjoy the fresh air and wonderful scenery for a few days. Eat lots of strawberries and get a bit of excercise.
Back to the coast again for an amazing island fort or two and a great sunset culture at Murud-Janira. Some of the best beaches on the Konkan coast and some delicious fish thalis and other sea food dishes.
A short trip up the coast to Alibaug which is popularly known as mini Goa. These beaches are the ones that people from Mumbai escape to on weekends so there are some top end hotels and restaurants as well as other tourist infrastructure. It is just a ferry ride away. It has become a destination for A-listers who like to escape the city in their luxury villas. Probably best avoided at weekends.
Bene Israeli Jews landed here around 2,200 years ago after fleeing persecution in Palestine. Alibaug means Ali's garden and is said to be named after one of them who was wealthy. In later years the Portuguese, Marathas and British all fought for control with the British finally winning out early in the 19th century.
Time to head for the hills and another toy train ride. Matheran is another weekend getaway for Mumbaikars so I strongly suggest you come here during the week. Which is cheaper, a lot less crowded and better for the Toy Train trip. This is the only Hill Station in India that is pedestrian only. The only vehicle allowed is the ambulance, so horses and rickshaws rule the roads.
All cars have to park up at the Dasturi Car Park which is 3 km from town. There is a small daily fee and don't leave anything laying around as the monkeys will knock it off. There are a lot here and they leave people alone unless they think you have food or are opening something that may have food. Some locals suggest carrying a stick around with you.
There is a shuttle service from nearby Aman Lodge Station into Matheran Toy Train Station. There are a dozen a day and it takes 20 mins. Or you could walk or ride a horse.
You can try and get a room as you walk into town. There is a government tourist hotel just past the car park. There are a few suggestions under STAY which are past the other side of town about 4 km away. There are baggage services as well if you need it.
Matheran is the smallest and one of the most beautiful Hill Stations in India. Enjoy the fresh air, absence of traffic and serenity before you descend into the chaos that is India's largest city - Mumbai.
It might be chaotic but it has a lot to offer including some quiet havens. So to do it any justice you should stay here for a good 4 or 5 days. Look through See and Do to see how many days you think you'll need. If you can afford it a stay at one of the Taj Hotels will finish off the trip nicely.
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History -
heads south from Goa. It was the epicentre of the spice world and the Portuguese explorer was the first European to find a sea route. This spelled the beginning of the end for the Silk Road. Up until the Europeans arrived the Malabar coast was known as one of the most hospitable trading havens.
The Portuguese built forts up the coast
and introduced armed commerce. In the 17th century the Dutch and British came along and eventually the British East India Company took control. The French settlement at Mahe became an important centre of pepper trade and they stayed there until 1954.
goes from Goa up just past Mumbai. It is known for its beautiful beaches, fishing villages and numerous forts. the forts were built around a thousand years ago. The Maratha Empire ruled here from the later 1600's until the British east India Company took over in 1818.
Originally Mumbai was a group of 7 islands.
The Portuguese gave them different names but they eventually became known as Bombain meaning good bay. The English acquired them as a part of the dowry when Charles II got married. They decided it would make a good base but the problem was the average life expectancy here for an Englishman was 3 years due to malaria. They decided to drain the swamp and connect the islands. The joining of the 7 islands was finally completed in 1838.
who fled persecution by Muslims in Persia (Iran) and first came to Gujarit around 1,300 years ago. They learned the local language and stopped eating beef to assimilate with the locals. Bombay came under the control of the British East India Company in 1668 and because of the religious freedom they offered many Parsi settled here. The expansion of the city was mainly due to their abilities and efforts and they became a wealthy community.
Iranis are Zoroastrians who left Persia in the 19th century and set up many cafes in Bombay. In their heyday there were hundreds dotted around the city but sadly today there are only a few dozen of these precious time capsules left. Many of the owners are in their 80's and 90's and not sure who is going to take over from them. Have a look at EAT for Mumbai for a list of some of the more famous ones.
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See -
Fort Kochi -
Fort Kochi Jail and Museum - built to hold freedom fighters
Fort Kochi Fort - don't overdo it too early. There's a lot of forts to come and some of the best ones are at the end. So try not to get Forted out.
Athirapilly Falls -
There are another couple of falls nearby - Vazhachal and Charpa.
Palakkad -
Palakkad Fort complete with moat - the maiden is used for exhibits and events. Open 8 am - 6 pm.
Rock Garden - in Malampuzha 8 km away
Ooty - "Queen of Hills" -
Botanical Gardens - 22 hectares of the local flora in 5 sections and opened in 1848. Snacks available.
Rose Garden - but the best time to see this is between March and June.
Thread Garden - unique handmade and realistic artificial flowers that are best seen anytime.
St Stephens Church - built in 1829 using elephant power, complete with cemetery featuring many of the British living here (or not).
The Tea factory - to see it being processed and packaged.
Wax World - inside an old Raj bungalow with local figures.
Doddabetta View Point - scenic views of the valley, a cafe for a cup of Ooty tea and nearby is the scenic Tea Estate View Point where you can walk the trails through the tea and be astounded by the views. There is also a tea factory, museum, tasting and factory outlet to complete the experience.
The M & N Chocolate Museum - the first one in India. Learn about the chocolate making process both ancient and modern. Learn chocolate history back to 1500 BC when the Mayans used to brew up hot chocolate drinks. The museum is in the Limca book of records for making an 18 metre chocolate bar.
Ooty Homemade Chocolates - Chocolate Factory
Ooty Racecourse - well over 100 years old and one of the most famous in India. Racing season is in summer from April to June.
Wayanad -
Do the viewpoint tour - Lakkidi, Neelimala, Phantom Rock, Vayalada, Kaduvakuzhi and as many again. Pick a logical route from where you end up staying.
Uravu Bamboo Workshop - see what you can do with one of mother nature's masterpieces. Help out a worthy cause and pick up a few souvenirs.
Mahe - Mayyazhi
Government House Museum - at the start of the riverside walkway
Thottada Beach -
Sacred Cave Temple - home to a powerful and invisible yogi.
Dharmadam Island - you can walk from the Drive in beach at low tide
Bekal -
Bekal Fort - Panoramic views of the Malabar coastline. It took15 years to build and was finished in 1660. It is spread over 40 acres so there are plenty of walks available. Closed on Sunday.
Udupi -
The Shri Krishna Matha - famous pilgrimage site
Malpe Beach - sunsets, camel rides, sea walk
Dhareshwar Beach -
En-route see the world's 2nd largest Shiva statue at Murudeshwar. The biggest one is in Nepal.
Head up to Kumta beach to see if there is any Bioluminecent plankton about. 3 days after a new moon is a good time to look.
Gokarna - The Beaches (Avoid swimming in rough seas)
En-route - stop off to have a look at the Mirjan Fort, covered in bright green moss and built by Rani Chennabhairadevi the Pepper Queen who defeated the mighty Portuguese. She ruled for 54 years.
Om Beach -
The double crescent beaches are similar to part of the sacred Hindu symbol for OM. It has spectacular sunsets, water sports (including Jet Skis, banana boats and parasailing), surfing, hiking, dolphin spotting, plenty of food stalls and cafes.
Kudle Beach -
Is one of the best most popular beaches for travellers and backpackers. After sunset there is often a hippie flea market followed by a bonfire and drumming. It has the usual water sports, beach volleyball, cricket, hiking, sunsets, it has many food stalls, cafes and restaurants - it is dangerous for swimming
Gokarna Beach -
the main beach, popular with the locals and the most developed and busy, near the temple which is a pilgrimage site. people go for a cleansing dip in the sea before entering the temple.
Half Moon Beach -
more secluded for those seeking solitude, like hippies. It is free from commercialisation and development. Accommodation and restaurants are set up between November and May. The bamboo huts have no power and food and beer is about 40 % dearer than other places. The currents are strong here and people have drowned. Walking back to Om beach after sunset can be dangerous in the dark. You could get lost or fall off a cliff.
Paradise Beach -
Aka Full Moon beach. South from Half Moon beach, only has access by foot or boat and it is dangerous for swimming. Once a famous hippy hangout, a local official dismantled all of the shacks and banned any commercial activity on the beach. The broken down shacks are still lying around the place. Camping is the only option and don't try to take the path after dark.
Nirvana Beach -
And Kumta Beach are places where Bioluminescent plankton appears. It is secluded and doesn't get the crowds of Gokarna beach. There are not many facilities here.
Palolem Beach -
Cotigao Wildlife Centre - exotic flora and protected fauna - they are a bit shy though so you may not get to see a lot of them. What you could see is wild boars, panthers, hyenas, sloth bears, flying squirrels, Indian pangolins, antelopes, Malabar pit vipers, woodpeckers, mouse deer, flying lizards, golden back gliding snakes, porcupines and Malabar tree toads. There are 8 hiking trails, 6 treetop watchtowers and an educational centre. Also there is an observation deck in the foliage of a 25 m tree looking down on the watering hole where the animals come to drink at dawn and dusk. Open 7 am - 5.30 pm every day.
Vagator Beach -
En-route - have breakfast in Agonda beach and lunch in Bogmalo beach (well known for its Goan specialties). Have a look at the Indian Naval Aviation Museum first.
Tarkarli Beach -
En-route - stop in for a lazy lunch at Fort Tiracol Heritage Hotel (book ahead - great sea food and al fresco dining on the terrace with mesmerising sea views)
Sindughurg Fort - on its own island 15 minutes away by boat - it occupies 48 acres but unfortunately it has a lot of rubbish laying around
Sunday mornings - make the effort if you're here to get up and watch the entire village participate in traditional net fishing off the beach at Malvan
Vijaydurg -
Vijaydurg - aka Fort Victor - sea fort that was the maritime headquarters of the Maratha Navy, it was called the Eastern Gibraltar by the British - you can take a boat ride around to look at the outside walls - World Helium day is celebrated at the Fort!!
Ganpatipule -
En-route - See Thibaw Palace - closed Mondays - open 10 am - 5 pm - interesting story behind this one which you can read about in - The King in Exile - The Fall of the Royal Family in Burma by Sudah Shah / there is some more fort stuff nearby - if you have an unnatural interest in forts. There is a good one coming up so save some room for it.
Ganpatipule Temple - is 400 years old and receives thousands of pilgrims every year seeking the blessings of Lord Ganesha
Ratnadurga or Bhagawati Fort - 120 acres and built in the 12th century - surrounded by the sea on 3 sides and very picturesque
Mahabaleshwar Hill Station -
Mapro Garden - a large strawberry plantation and host of the annual Strawberry Festival - it has a Chocolate Factory and Strawberry products like ice cream, jam, syrup and juice.
Viewpoints - Wilson Point (Sunrise Point) / Parsi Point (great views of the dam and another fine picnic spot) / Bombay Point (Sunset Point) / Kate's Point / Arthur's Seat (is made up of 6 viewpoints) / Elephant's Head Point (good for a picnic) / Helen's Point (incredible vistas including waterfalls) / Babington Point (for bird watching and views of Chinaman's Falls) / Carnac Point
Pratapgarh Fort - this one's very scenic on top of a hill with amazing views.
Waterfalls - Lingmala and Chinaman's - take a picnic lunch.
Wax Museum - personalities from around the world.
Murud-Janjira -
Padmadurg (fort) - is another island fort further out to sea. You can visit but you need to get permission from the Navy. It makes a good setting for the sunset from Murud beach.
Alibaug -
En-route - stop in at the Portuguese village of Korlai, you can climb up to the ruins of their old fort and see the light house
If you are sick of the sight of forts and never ever want to see another one you'll be glad to hear there is only 3 in this town. The Kolaba Fort is accessible by foot at low tide and once had a 5 storey palace inside of it. You probably won't be surprised to learn that this state alone is home to over 350 forts.
The Native Biodiversity Garden - 17 themed sections on medicinal, spices, butterflies, wetlands etc. Open 9 am - 1 pm and 2 pm - 4.30 pm every day.
Matheran Hill Station -
En-route stop in at D Samson's Soda Shop - established in 1938 by Daniel Samson Digodkar a descendant of the Bene Israeli Jews who came out 2,200 years ago to flee oppression in Palestine. His nephew loved the sodas and runs the shop today. It has ice cream sodas as well as flavours like Ginger and Lemon, Kala Katta (Blackberry combination) and Masala Soda (Spice mix).
There are 38 designated lookout points around the place - you can do a walking tour of the closer ones
Louisa Point and Echo Point - amazing views, zip lines, echoes, snacks and refreshments
Scenic Charlotte Lake - has birdlife, a temple, a waterfall during the monsoon, great sunsets and a good place for a picnic.
King George Point - 10 mins from Charlotte Lake, many people say it's a sin to come to Matheran and not see this majestic view of the lake and falls surrounded by 3 hills, also good for sunset
9D Cinema in town - all the features of a 7D theatre with 2 more. A frenzy of sensations.
Mumbai -
The Gateway of India - opened in 1924 it was built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary in 1911. The last British troops left through here in 1947 marking the end of British rule in India. The government didn't have enough money for the monument and that is why the approach road was never built. It's a popular tourist attraction and has numerous vendors selling all manner of things.
Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus - aka CST, formerly known as Victoria Terminus and it was built to commemorate her Golden Jubilee - the iconic Mumbai Railway Station is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It featured in the movie Slumdog Millionaire. Quite a sight at rush hour.
Haji Ali Dargah - built in 1431 by a wealthy Muslim merchant and Sufi saint who is entombed here. Situated in the sea it is only accessible at low tide by a 500 m walkway.
Chor Bazaar / Thieves market - so called because some of Queen Victoria's belongings went missing from one of her ships and yhey were found for sale at the market. It is over 150 years old and has some peculiar items for sale.
Khotachiwadi Village - colourful narrow streets and Portuguese architecture lure tourists to this peaceful haven for a break from Mumbai's noisy streets.
Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya - formerly known as the Prince of Wales Museum of Western India is one of the most beautiful buildings in the city and holds many of India's treasures. Helpfully it has English translations.
Mani Bhavan - see where Ghandi lived for 17 years and directed his campaign against the British from - the rooms where he lived and worked, rare photos, films and some of his iconic possessions
Acworth Leprosy Museum - located in the Leprosy Hospital - learn the truth about this controversial illness - if you dare!!
Elephanta Caves on Elephanta Island - UNESCO World Heritage Listed cave temples dedicated to Lord Shiva in Mumbai Harbour. Reached by a ferry ride from the Gateway of India. It is also a popular trekking destination. This island has of all things a fort and a Toy Train. The train will transport you along the long pier to the start of the cave walk.
Antilia (named after a mythical island in the Atlantic Ocean) - the world's most expensive private house (not counting Buckingham Palace) owned by Mumbai billionaire and India's richest man Mukesh Ambani. He lives here with his wife and 3 kids. The 27 storey building is located on Altamount Rd Cumballa Hill in South Mumbai. These are note regular floors though and in reality it is equal to a 40 storey building. There are 600 staff living here. it is designed to survive an earthquake of 8 on the Richter Scale. It has 3 helipads and an air traffic control system. It has 6 levels of parking which can accommodate 168 cars. It has a snow room.
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Do -
Fort Kochi -
A Walking Tour - including the Chinese fishing nets / Waterfront Granary Hotel / Jewtown / The International Pepper Exchange (the only place in the world that uses pepper as currency) / Jew Street / The Mattancherry Palace / The Jain temple (at 2.15 pm sharp to see the pigeons) / Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica / Princess Street / Vasco House / The Saint Francis CSI Church / Malabar House (Beer O'clock) and the Dutch Cemetery. Just feed the stops into Maps.me and use your phone to navigate or find the on the Marker Map. ⬆️
Athirapilly Falls -
Walk around the falls
If you wander through the gardens at Thumboormuzhi Dam you will come across over 148 diverse species of butterflies.
Palakkad -
Have an Ayurvedic treatment and massage
Fantasy Park - water park if you feel like cooling off
Kava Island - for nature walks, 12 km away
"Snooty Ooty " -
Boathouse at the lake - for paddle boats, row boats and motor boats. Also a 7D cinema at the lake, mini train, horror house, house of mirrors and other entertainments. The lake was man made in 1824.
Trout fishing at Avalanche Lake / Hang Gliding
Play Golf at the Ooty Golf Club - one of the finest natural golf courses in the world + the altitude adds 10 yards to your shots.😃 If you see the Ooty Hunt Club (the only one surviving outside England and Ireland) riding along on their horses they have right of way and you'll need to call them through. Have a meal and a few drinks at the Ootacamund Gymkhana Club after your round.
Do a day trip to see the other Hill Stations of Kotagiri and Coonoor. In Kotagiri see the memorial for the man who started it all, John Sullivan. Then head to the amazing cake shops near Johnstone Circle for some morning tea. On the road from Coonoor to Ooty stop in at the famous Culinarium restaurant. Breathtaking views matched with delicious food. Pot pies, Chicken and mushroom pie, lasagne, goulash and salted caramel ice cream.
Nilgiri Mountain Railway - take the Toy Train to Mettupalayam . Built by the Brits in 1908 and still using steam locomotives sometimes or a diesel for more power. The section between Ooty and Coonoor is steeper and this is where they usually use a diesel. Many Bollywood movies have been shot on the train which travels through stunning mountain scenery and some of Tamil Nadu's famous hill stations. It is 46 km long, has many tunnels and hundreds of bridges. There are 1st, 2nd and General Class tickets which you can book online. It's very popular so it will pay to book ahead. See if you can get on the Vista Dome Coach. There is no catering or toilets on the train. You can buy food at the stations and the train does stop for toilet breaks.
Get 1st Class seats for more leg room. Take some food and water. Catch the 2 pm train from Ooty and arrive in Mettupalayam at 5.30 pm. Have a one way taxi organised to meet you and drive you back to Coonoor. Have a quick look in the Niligiri Mountain Railway Museum (adjacent to the railway station before you leave). You should have almost enough daylight to get there and not have to travel at night.
Spend the next day looking around Coonoor then catch the 4 pm train which will arrive back in Ooty at 5.15pm. Spend the day relaxing, looking aroundor have a round of golf at the Wellington Gymkhana Club. Founded in 1873 this scenic course is one of the oldest in Southern India. Check out the many bakeries in town. The famous Crown Bakery dates back to 1880. If you love your plants there is another botanical garden here called Sim's Park.
Coonoor -
Horse riding / Trekking
Wayanad -
Visit a Plantation - Wayanad has some of the world's best spices, tea and coffee - see your hotel tour desk to find out the best place nearby - main crops in the region include coffee, cocoa, pepper, ginger, plantain, vanilla, tumeric, cardamom, beetle nut, tea, cassava and cinnamon. The best pepper comes from a unique variety called the Wayanadan which grows mainly in the Manathavady region. This variety is almost extinct and there are efforts being made to revive its rightful place in the pepper world.
A day trip to see the 2 major attractions -
1. The Edakkal Caves - housing petroglyphs believed to be over 8,000 years old - they are the only Stone age drawings in India. Closed on Mondays.
2. Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary - 350 square kilometres of magical landscapes and sanctuary for endangered species. Jeep Safaris 7 am - 10 am and 3 pm - 5 pm. It has the world's largest recorded population of Asian elephants and Tigers. These two along with the Vulture are considered the Flagship species at the sanctuary. Other species include Leopards, Jungle cats, Leopard cats, Spotted deer, Sambar deer, Gaur, Sloth bear, Wild dog, Wild boar, Indian pangolin, Stripe-necked mongoose and a host of other mammals. Also known as the Mathunga Wildlife Sanctuary.
Chembra Peak Trek - a 3 km hike through tea plantations, thick forests and lush grasslands to the top of Wayanads highest peak. A stunning walk that is well rewarded when you reach the top. Stop at the perfect heart shaped lake if you want to cut it short. It is a couple of hours to the lake and then another hour and a half to the peak. Most people start at around 7 am. Take lots of water and some food.
Mahe -
Go for a wander along the riverside walkway
Stock up on booze
Thottada Beach -
Enroute - only a short drive so plenty of time to check out the city of the three C's - Thelassery aka Tellicherry. It was the first place the British played cricket, the first place they made cakes and the Indian Circus has its origins here as well.
The cakes were baked in Mambally's Royal Biscuit Factory which is still open today and would be a good place to pick up some sweet treats. You could eat them at Overbury's Folly a nearby sea side park with an open air coffee shop and a story. They baked India's first Christmas cake in 1883. Also nearby is the Thelassery Fort which is near the Municipal Cricket Stadium, the birthplace of Indian Cricket. Unfortunately the Circus Training Academy has been closed down. The famous Paris Restaurant is known for having the best Thelassery Biriyani in town. Across the road is the Firoz Cool Bar where you can finish off with something sweet.
Further on up the road is the Muzhuppilangad Drive on Beach. Take the Tuk Tuk out for a spin on the 5 kms of firm sand. At sunset it gets busy with people and vendors. You're only 6 kms away from your resort.
Go boating and fishing on the Thottada River.
Head into Kunnar to see the sights - (Marco Polo was here a while ago)
· Peralasssery - the massive temple pond is the visual attraction at this famous pilgrimage site.
· Dinesh Beedi Factory - one of the biggest and best beedi factories around - visitors welcome
· Fort St Angelo - one of the oldest Portuguese settlements built in 1505 - you can climb up to the top for views along the coast
· Arakkal Museum - in part of the old Royal Palace of the Arakkal family whose dynasty dates back to the 1200's.
Have lunch at the Hotel Odens who specialise in Malabar Cuisine. It is near the market. For western food try Sahib's Grill. - Kunnar is a good place to buy cashews and banana chips.
Bekal -
Pallikere Beach - 1 km south of the fort, with great views of the fort. A popular spot.
Kodi Cliffs and Kappil beach - for the views and scenery
Udupi -
Enroute - have a look at the Chandragiri Fort in Kasaragod, a huge 17th century fort with an eventful history. Stop in at Kaup Beach to climb the Light house
White water rafting - on the Sita River
Visit St Mary's Island - just like Vasco de Gama did in 1948 when he named it / them
Go for a surf / Have a few Ayurvedic treatments and massages
Dhareshwar Beach -
Enroute - India's 2nd largest Shiva statue at Murdeshwar
Gokarna -
Beach crawl - go for a hike and spend a bit of time at all the beaches
Learn how to surf - at the surf school on Gokarna beach
Nirvana Beach - head over at night time to see the blue glowing plankton
This is a major pilgrimage centre so if you're into temples there are plenty around including the major one by Gokarna beach - Mahabaleshwar Temple with its 6 foot Shiva Lingham. This temple is considered as important as the one in the holy city of Varanasi. This isn't the only bioluminescent beach you will be going past. Have a look at the link for a few more.
Yoga is popular here and there are Ayurvedic Spas in most of the resorts if you're looking for a massage or treatment
Go for a stroll around the ancient streets of Gokarna Town with its colourful murals and around the lake
Ride a camel along the beach
Palolem Beach -
Go dolphin spotting - by sail boat
Visit Monkey Island (Canacona Island) - walk across at low tide or take a boat - good luck!!
Goa Jungle Adventure - go canyoning or trekking
Go for a spin up to popular Agonda beach or pop in for breakfast when you are heading up the coast
Saturday Flea Market - in Palolem (and others)
Lots of massage places along the beach and top end Ayurvedic Spas - reflexology, Reiki, energy healing - ask locals for advice on where to go as there are a few dodgy (gropey) ones around
Play Golf at the beach and river front LaLit Golf & Spa Resort - take your bathers for the best swimming pool at Palolem
Boating and kayaking on the backwaters or kayak along the coastline to the next beach or so and maybe say hello to a few dolphins
Hire a scooter and go for a ride to see the neighbouring beaches
Eagle feeding - by boat in the backwaters, get up close and personal
North Indian and Goan Cooking Classes - with Chef Rahul, find him behind Cuba Beach Bungalows 11.30 am - 2.30 pm and 6 pm - 9 pm
Join the Circus - Bliss Circus is a local training space in the beachside jungle with monkeys and all sorts of circus artists who come here for the winter. They offer classes and workshops as well as putting shows together and performing them. They even have a vegetarian restaurant.
Lots of Yoga
Vagator Beach -
Friday Night Bazaar at Hill Top
Saturday Flea Market - run by the Germans also with food stalls
Cricket on the beach
Rent a scooter for a bit of fun to get around and have a look around
Tarkarli Beach -
Scuba Diving and snorkelling - Malvan has one of the best coral reefs in India and is famous for its clear waters
Water sports - on Tsunami Island (formed by the 2004 tsunami)
Dolphin spotting
Vijaydurg -
Visit the cashew factory to see how they are processed
Ganpatipule Beach -
The beach is one of the best on the Konkan coast and has water sports and boat and camel rides
Visit the Prachin Konkan Museum - 3 acre open air museum depicting life in Konkan in ancient times and ... (this will excite you) miniature replicas of the forts along the coast
Mahabaleshwar Hill Station -
Venna Lake - boating or horse riding around the manmade lake
Panchgani - the "Land of Five Hills" was developed as a retirement place during the British Raj - do a day trip to this nearby fellow Hill Station - things to see include the Table Land a volcanic plateau, the highest in Asia outside of Tibet with spectacular views of the town - you can do horse riding or even paragliding if you're game / The Rajpuri caves surrounded by sacred pools that free bathers of diseases, sins and evil / Sydney and Parsi viewpoints / Devrai Art Village - pick up some nice souvenirs/ on Wednesdays there is the weekly Buddha Bazaar with locally grown produce and products / have lunch at the Rainforest Restaurant at Parsi Point for delicious food with amazing views
The Club Mahabaleshwar - play golf on the old course from the British Raj era. 11 holes with 10 browns and 1 green. Follow the dark and narrow descent to the famed Chinaman hole. Have a look around the club while you're here. Back in 1881 it was decided to turn the old army sanitarium blocks into the Club Mahabaleshwar making it one of the oldest 30 still remaining British clibs still operating in India. Have breakfast in the Breakfast Room or a meal in the dining room later. You should be able to get temporary membership to play golf and they have dress rules.
Murud-Janjira -
Murud Janira Fort - is the number one ticket in this town, this island fort is reached by sail boat, they will give you 45 minutes to look around the 9 acre fort. If you want longer you'll need to negotiate it with the boatman who you can hire as your guide. It was built by slaves from Africa and completed in 1571. The fort was never successfully invaded.
Alibaug -
All of the beaches around have water sports - Nagaon for parasailing, beach shacks cooking up seafood / Alibaug for jet ski, banana boat and sea kayaking, plenty of food stalls and a view of the fort / Mandwa for quadbiking
Matheran Hill Station -
Matheran - Neral Toy Train - it is 10 km by road and 20 km by rail. The train trip takes around 2 hours and has 281 zig zag turns. It was constructed in 1907 and has UNESCO World Heritage status. The monsoon rains often wash away sections of the track so hopefully the line is operational while you're there.
There are 5 stations on the line and a tunnel called "One Kiss Tunnel". Food vendors walk through the train. The train holds 100 people, has one 1st class carriage and three 2nd class carriages. There are also shuttle services between the carpark at Dasturi (Aman Lodge Station) into Matheran Station. There are 4 trains a day between Neral and Matheran. Leaving Neral at 7.50 am and 9.50 am and leaving Matheran at 7.20 am and 9.55 am. It takes 2 hours from Neral and a bit shorter the other way.
There are some excellent treks around including some along the railway line. For the very fit and brave there is the incredibly steep Kalavantin Fort which has claimed a few lives over the years and is known as the most dangerous fort in the world. You were hoping never to see another fort again so be careful this could be your last. Don't even attempt it if it's wet.
Mumbai -
Sanjay Ghandi National Park - the world's biggest city park - it has a tiger population, 2,000 year old Buddhist caves, is 104 km squared in size, has 20 lions - (safari), leopards, deer and Hanuman langurs, a Jain temple, a 2.5 km toy train ride, walking trails and a couple of lakes - (boating).
A boat cruise - around the harbour - catch the ferry to Elephanta Island from the Gateway of India
Open top double decker bus tour - that starts at the CSMVS (formerly the Prince of Wales Museum) and includes 16 tourist attractions
Click here for details of the bus tour
Wankhede Stadium - go to the cricket if it's on
Have a round of golf at the Bombay Presidency Golf Club established in 1927
Navi Mumbai - head over for the day to see the world's largest planned city
TOURS -
Bollywood - do a tour or even get a part as an extra. Film City is one of the largest film Studios in the world. Bollywood is second only to Hollywood which is the world's largest film industry. There is a 2 hour bus tour through Film City. There is also the Live Show Tour which takes you to the set of a TV series where you can interact with the actors.
Click here for Bollywood tour information
Dharavi Slum Tour - very enlightening and pick up a few souvenirs while supporting local workers. Where Slumdog Millionaire was shot.
Dhobi Wallas and Dabbawalas - see the largest laundry on earth and the army of people who deliver hot tiffin lunch boxes to office workers (around 80 million a year). Somehow everyone gets the right clothes and the right lunch always on time. They also pick the lunch boxes back up and return them home. The system first began in 1890 and most of the Dabbawalas come from the same community and are illiterate. There are numerous tours that combine these with other activities. It depends on how many hours you want to be on it. Look around for something that suits your interests.
Click here for the official Dabbawala tour
Shantaram - visits locations from the book
Click here for tour information
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Eat -
Fort Kochi -
on an unused pier with a clear ocean view, Keralan cuisine like Prawn and Mango curry and try the stewed figs with vanilla ice cream
Colonial style and a bar with water views, has some classic dishes from the days of the British Raj
Seagull -
by the sea with good seafood and drinks
beautiful garden restaurant - 1788 Restaurant at the Old Harbour Hotel, by the pool with BBQ seafood platters
with the Arabian Sea lapping at the windows try out their lobster dishes
Athirappilly Falls -
Rainforest - fantastic views of the waterfall
Palakkad -
It has its own unique cuisine which is a blend of the best traditions in Tamil and Keralan cuisines
Ooty Hill Station - famous for its bakeries and homemade chocolates
Visit the Fernhills Royal Palace for a look around and have a meal while you are there
Angaara - tandoori and curries, indoor / outdoor seating
Kebabs - at Kebab Corner / Shinkows - for Chinese / Nahar - for Thali
Quality - for Punjabi food (Butter chicken & naan)
Hyderabad Biryani House - forryani - try the chicken tikka biryani
Kingstar - for homemade chocolates in some interesting flavours like fig, blackcurrant and mango, they also make a mean chocolate fudge
Momo House - for ....Momos, spicy chicken and corn and cheese
Place to Bee - Italian inside a Bee Museum featuring wild honey
Wayanad -
Fish Moilee - light curry cooked in coconut milk
Nadan Beef Fry - good with a beer
Karimeen Pollichathu - marinated fish cooked in banana leaf
Malabar Duck Roast - duck is a staple delicacy in this region
Malabar Biryani - also called Thalassery Biryani
Bamboo Biryani - a famous Wayanad dish cooked in bamboo
Try the Cafe Riders Lounge - if you're hanging out for some western food or looking for a good cafe
On the day you go to the Wildlife Sanctuary have lunch (either before or after) at the Wilton Hotel, one of the most famous in Kerala.
Mahe -
for good Indian food and good ambiance by the sea front. No French food unfortunately but it does have an ice cream parlour.
Thottada Beach -
Eat in the hotels and resorts restaurants
If you want an authentic Malabar Coffee and a good breakfast head into town to the Indian Coffee House
Bekal -
tasty and mildly spiced, influenced by Arabian, Zamorin and Chirakkal styles
Udupi -
is strictly vegetarian and is well known. It is basically temple food that was designed to be food for the gods.
Eat at the resort for some of the best food and views around
Dhareshwar Beach -
Seafood and Continental at the resort restaurant
Gokarna -
The further south you go the fewer eateries there are
Dolphin Cafe - great spot overlooking Om Beach
Namaste Cafe - good for sea views and seafood at Om beach
The Rock Namaste Cafe - seafood lasagne at Kudle beach
The White Elephant - good views and food on Kudle beach plus they have rooms
Palolem Beach -
Walk down to Patnem Beach for a look and a seafood lunch - some of the restaurants to look for include The Home Resort / Namaste Beach Huts and Restaurant
Zest - for vegetarian treats - smoothies, fritters and Buddha Bowls
Sumaya - for authentic Goan dishes
Cafe Inn -
Full English breakfasts and mezze platters
Hidden gem - famous for their chai and fruit shakes - outdoor dining - Tiffin
Much beloved and a good choice for breakfast or lunch
Authentic Goan dishes like Goan sausage and fish curry rice
Vagator Beach -
Has been 500 years in the making but it is dissappearing. Ever since the Portuguese arrived seeking out spices from the exotic East. It is a blend of the two cultures that has been developed over the many years.
Thalassa -
Very popular Greek food with a stunning view - you'll need to book - also a great place to be at sunset
Popular and lively place to hang out and people watch. They have a bar and are open late.
Vegetarian with a big range of dishes from pizza to ice cream
French bakery in a garden with baguettes, croissants, pasta and steak
Antares -
One of two projects Australian Masterchef contestant Sarah Todd is involved in with a local restaurateur. The other one is in Mumbai called The Wine Rack. This one is a resort with a restaurant, Beach Club and various types of accommodation. The cuisine is Australian themed with a touch of Asian. It's not cheap but is a pleasant place to sit with some fantastic views and good food.
German Bakery - in Anjuna - long time favourite good for breakfast
Cream Choc (Gelati) - for your afternoon ice cream fix
Goa's Ark - in Anjuna - Middle Eastern and Mediterranean
Bomra's - in Candolim - modern Burmese
Tin Tin in Tibet - for momos and seafood
Britto's - in Baga - for Sunday Roasts and live music in the evenings
Tarkarli Beach -
Malvani Cuisine - features fiery sea food curries and is very similar to Goan and Keralan / Shark Curry is very popular / Malvani Mutton Curry / Bombay Duck Fry / Cucumber Cake / Prawn curry
Revankar's Family Homestay - for homemade Malvani cuisine
Vijaydurg -
Mavlani cuisine with very fresh seafood from Suruchi Hotel, Mayuri Hotel and Hotel Vijaydurg Palace aka Hotel Darya and water views.
Ganpatipule -
Hotel Taranaga - sea views and good food - being a pilgrimage town there is a lot of vegetarian food here - this restaurant has non-veg options
Mahabaleshwar Hill Station - The Land of Strawberries
There are good restaurants near the market area
Chikki - peanuts and jaggery - other types have chocolate and strawberry combined with nuts like cashews - there are Chikki shops where you can try before you buy
Puran Poli - a chapati stuffed with sweet puran
Chicken Lollipops - Indian / Chinese delicacy found mainly at the market
Elsie's Dairy & Bakery - over 170 years old located in the main market and frozen in time
Carrot Date cake, Pineapple muffin, Apple tart, Banana Raisin Loaf, Chocolate muffin, Banana Walnut cake, Strawberry Jam cake - need I say more.
Saayali restaurant - for Indian classics like Butter Chicken and Tandoori Chicken
Farmhouse Bistro - if you need a western change, pasta, pizza, salad
Bagicha Corner - when it's ice cream o'clock - Strawberry ice cream and smoothies
Murud-Janjira -
dining under the palm trees on the beach, the #1 place in town for sea food - traditional Konkan cooking with no frills and good prices
The restaurant at the Sand Piper Resort has good food and views
Alibaug -
Beach shacks at Nagaon beach cook up seafood meals
Mandwa Beach Boardwalk by Flamboyante there is an array of fine dining places, as well as shopping, cheap beer and adventure activities
Sanman - is a local favourite in town for its authentic Gomantac style seafood thali - they also have a beach resort and restaurant at Varsoli beach
Kokum & Spice at the Radisson Blu has delicious seafood
Matheran Hill Station -
Restaurants along the main street as well as the better resorts
Food stalls, vendors and dhabas have Maharashtrian and Punjabi food
Mumbai -
mashed potatoes and spices dipped in besan deep fried and served with chutney - available everywhere
Vada Pav -
Mumbai's favourite snack, see above and put it in a fresh bun
Butter Chicken - everyone's favourite, if you can get to the Punjab Grill Level 3 Palladium Mall Phoenix Mills, Lower Parel - it's also pretty good at Leopold's
a weird combination of beetroot, potato, cucumber, tomato, capsicum, cheese, onion and mint chutney that somehow comes together - toasted is best
is actually a fish that is caught locally and coated with spiced besan batter and fried.
Rare Irani time capsule cafe from the 1950's - good for breakfast - house special is bread pudding - they also have delicious apple pie, carrot cake, egg puffs, bun maska (soft bun and butter), ginger biscuits and chai
Another Irani Cafe where you can get authentic Parsi food at great prices and enjoy it with a cold beer. They are a lot more than just another to eat and unfortunately their futures are uncertain. In the 1950's there were 500 Irani cafes spread across the city and now there are only about 15 - 20 left. So get some while you can
Have lunch in this famous cafe. Open since 1871 it has featured in several movies and books such as Shantaram (a book loved by many and recommended reading) and Hotel Mumbai in which it was one of the first targets and it still has the bullet holes in the walls to prove it
Other Irani (Parsi) Cafes to check out -
Iconic with vintage jukebox and murals of everyday life in Mumbai on the walls, good food and beer available
House specials are chai and kheema pav (curry made with minced meat)
Famous for their chai and ice cream sodas
Different menu every day - Railway Mutton Curry
Special, serving Parsi Wedding food and chocolate chip cookies
Plum cakes, minced chicken patties, lagan nu custard
Britannia & Company Restaurant 1923 -
Local institution with famous Berry Pulao,
Lagan nu Custard, Salli Boti, Dhanshak and the raspberry drink you can only get at these cafes - Pallonji
Walnut date cake, Special Mawa cake (cardamom spiced, eggless and buttery), cherry custard
Famous for their chicken mayo rolls
Famous for its Mawa cakes which often sell out just after they open
..............................................................................................................
Over 50 blends of tea including their signature Burma Burma blend. You can eat tea leaves too in their delicious salads. try the National dish Mohingar a bowl of curry noodles often eaten for breakfast. There is a large range of dishes and some interesting drinks like Spiced Ginger, Kurry, Kumquat Mojito, Kaffir Lime Cooler and Seabuckthorn Mary.
Bagdadi -
Over 125 years old in Colaba behind the Taj Palace, also good for lunch and great value - huge tandoori rotis eaten with meaty gravy dishes like chicken fry, beef chilli and mutton korma- Tuesday special is chicken white - they also do biryani and caramel custard - they're open until 12.30 am so it's good for late night munchies as well
Even if you can't afford to stay here you can live it up a bit and have high tea - all you can eat buffet style, savoury and sweet so don't worry about having dinner. Served in the Sea Lounge with spectacular views of the Arabian Sea. Over a dozen restaurants to choose from.
Landmark restaurant and bakery in Churchgate
for Street Food 11 am - 10 pm. Very popular during Ramadam
Bademiya -
Late night kebabs behind the Taj Palace - originally a street stall started with Rs20 by a 13 year old boy
====================================================
Drink -
Fort Kochi -
Club 18 -
Has over 38 cocktails a 10,000 watt sound system and an outdoor pool
Cold beer and loud music
Has a beer garden
Ooty Hill Station -
play on the table where the game of snooker was invented - strict dress code applies - have a meal while you are there.
All of the higher end hotels have bars with drinks at higher end prices
Hit the Liquor Retailer and drink around the campfire
Wayanad -
There are currently 6 bars, 6 beer parlours and 5 state beverage outlets in Wayanad.
Mahe -
There are a lot of bars around due to the lax liqour laws and taxes but most of them are closed by around 9.30 pm. Start early.
Thottada Beach -
cultural dances at the sea side temples
Bekal -
There are no outlets in Bekal so if you want a drink you'll need to take some with you.
Gokarna -
Officially alcohol is banned due to the holy status of the town but cold beers are easily available on the beach.
French restaurant on Gokarna beach with live music including the sitar
Ilmio Ristorante - Italian restaurant with DJ and sand dance floor at Gokarna beach
Facing Kudle beach, bonfire, DJ and sand dancefloor
Palolem Beach -
Flyers get handed around at sunset to let you know what's going on and there is a 10 pm noise curfew
Cafe Del Mar and Silver Star - Cocktails & Dreams both have 24 hour licenses
3,000 person capacity high octane club in a jungle quarry with a 7 m high stage with a waterfall, pyrotechnics, laser show, open air under the stars and costume clad dancers. - Friday nights - 5 km from Palolem Beach -
Pick up your headphones, dance the starry night away and keep the neighbours happy - Saturday nights at Neptune Point
Live music every night along the beach
Crystal Goa - live music in the evenings and Palolem's best curry
Vagator Beach -
Both Vagator and neighbouring Anjuna are party beaches
There are restauranys, cafes, bars, pubs and nightclubs all along the main road - Open Air Clubs - Hilltop since the 1970's (Sundays) and Primrose
Anjuna since 1986 - Beach shack during the day and party place by night
Guru Bar -
Began as a chai stall and canteen in 1967 and is now a legendary rock venue - you can still get the vegetable cheese toast that was served to the hippies all those year ago
Tarkarli Beach -
Solkadhi -
Is a curry energy drink made from coconut milk and kokuma sour dried fruit product.
Mahabaleshwar Hill Station -
Some of the cafes stay open late if you're hankering for a coffee, milkshake or late night ice cream - try Baba's near the market
The Electrique Mist - nightclub on Kate's Point Rd - one of the town's best
Alibag -
scattered all around so it depends on where you end up staying
Matheran Hill Station -
Alcohol is allowed but you'll need to bring it in as no shops sell it.
Mumbai -
Leo's has cheap beer and great atmosphere
Mondy's has Mumbai's first jukebox with some classic old rock, murals depicting what happens in the bar and cold beer
At the Taj Palace was Bombay's first licensed bar and disco, the signature cocktails all come with a history lesson - great views of the Gateway of India
Pub Crawls - a choice of two, 3 hours - English speaking guide and free shots in 4 pubs
Click here to find out about the Pub Crawls
====================================================
Sunsets -
Fort Kochi -
At the Chinese fishing nets
Sunset Cruise - past the Chinese fishing nets
Vasco da Gama Square - by the beach
Athirapilly Falls -
At the falls
Palakkad -
Ooty Hill Station -
Wayanad -
Mahe -
The Hillock and the Light House along the riverside walkway
Thottada Beach -
At the lively Muzzhappilangad Drive-in Beach
Amazing sunsets anywhere along the beach
Bekal -
At the fort if it's open - it can close at 5.30 pm
Udupi -
Malpe Beach
Gokarna -
Goa
Palolem Beach -
The bar at Sunset Point
for cocktails and bar snacks
happy hour cocktails
Most beach bars offer 2 for 1 cocktails at sunset
Vagator Beach -
Titlie -
open air cliff bar and eatery with DJ's, musicians and cocktails - come for Sunday Sundowners
Thassally - the Greek restaurant has great sunset views and parties every night
for the views - made famous in a movie
in Vagator - bar and tables overlooking the beach - sunsets will never be the same again
Antares - for the views and the cocktails - sunset parties Friday to Sundays that play music late into the night - leading up from Little Vagator
Vijaydurg -
Mahabaleshwar Hill Station -
On Venna Lake
Viewpoints - Wilson, Bombay & Kate's Point
Murud-Janjira -
Sunsets are a big thing here - beach vendors set up a couple of hours earlier to prepare their wares, as the sun begins to set the crowd gathers, old and young alike, they sit on benches and in restaurants along the beach to watch the spectacle of sunset over the amazing Padmadurg Fort which seems to be floating in the sea. To complete the picture there are horse carriage rides, beach cricket and the warm waters of the Arabian Sea to frolic in.
Kashid Beach - head up early, have lunch at the Neel Garden Restaurant then enjoy the sunset at what is considered the best beach in the region
Matheran Hill Station -
There are 38 sunrise and sunset points around Matheran. One of these is Panorama Point with 360° views.
Sunset Point aka Porcupine Point -
is 2 km away from the market through the woods with the sun setting behind a mountain painting the sky in a golden blend of colours. You might want to take a torch and not stay too long.
Charlotte Lake - stunning scenery and reflections
Mumbai -
At the Four Seasons Hotel, on the 34th floor, smart casual dress, happy hour 5 pm - 8 pm - watch the sun go down and the city lights come on
8th floor of the InterContinental on Marine Drive with breathtaking ocean views and amazing sunsets
On the roof of the Sea Palace Hotel just near the Gateway of India - hidden gem - laid back atmosphere and cheaper prices with world music creating a lovely place to relax
Mumbai's iconic beach and a great place to people watch and eat delicious street food
With a multitude of food stalls and mobile vendors and the coastal city lights coming on make for quite a sight
Up the coast from Marine Drive this beach is a popular hangout for locals with gorgeous sunsets and classical Mumbai street foods. At night the beach turns into a colourful fair with rides and a Ferris wheel.
====================================================
Tips -
· Take some warm clothes for the Hill Stations - or buy something there. Take some dress up clothes as well to get onto the Clubs at the Hill Stations which have dress codes.
· You can book the Ooty Toy Train online which you should do at least 3 months in advance. No catering or toilets on the trains. Huge crowds on holidays and weekends.
· Beware of all the usual scams in Vagator that you find in most heavily touristed areas - don't trust anyone who comes up to you in the street or on the beach
· Some of India's beaches have strong currents so ask for local advice before jumping in the water
· Load up on cash before going to small or out of the way places as they often have few ATM's which may, or may not have any cash.
· A good LED headlamp always comes in handy
· You can use Uber and Ola in Mumbai - most places will be walking distance from where you are staying - including the ferry terminal
Safety -
Don't leave your things in the tuk tuk unattended
Always park overnight in secure hotel parking
Don't drive at night / Don't drink and drive
Drive carefully and focussed / Don't rely on your brakes too much
Take corners slowly / Come down hills slowly
Be ready to get out of the way quickly / Fill up often / Check everything before you take off / Use your horn often
Have Fun
=====================================================
Specialties -
Fort Kochi -
Banana fritters with Beef roast
Breudher -
a yeasted bread from the Dutch - the Bread of the Dead
Palakkad -
Spices, dried goods and pickles
Ooty Hill Station -
Homemade chocolates / Eucalyptus Products / teas
DTF Doddabetta Tea Factory and Tea Museum - Nilgiri Teas
Coonoor Hill Station -
Shunky's homemade chocolates , Green Shop and Chittus Chocolate Hub
Wayanad -
Gokarna -
Mangalorean ice cream dessert with several flavours of ice cream, nuts, chopped fruits, jelly, syrup and tutti frutti
a refreshing sugar candy that is a local specialty
Tarkarli Beach -
and cashew based products are famous in this region, as are mangoes
Vijaydurg -
Famous for its Alphonso mangoes in summer / Seafood and Solkadhi
Ganpatipule -
Amba Poli - mango pancakes and Phans Poli made with jackfruit
Mahabaleshwar Hill Station -
Mahabaleshwar strawberries and raspberries
Alibag -
Known as Khandale Kande believed to have medicinal properties for cough, cold, fever and allergies, also heals wounds as it has antiseptic, antibiotic, and antimicrobial properties - best eaten raw it does not have a strong smell and tastes sweet
Matheran Hill Station -
Famous for its Chikki - visit the Nariman Chikki Mart, open for over 70 years
Honey -
Beware of sugared fakes
Mumbai -
Souvenirs -
Tellicherry and Malabar pepper -
From the International Pepper Market in Fort Kochi
See specialties in Ooty - the Ooty market is a good place to shop
For Wild Gold Honey
For bamboo products
Near the caves - for exclusive spice products of Wayanad including natural ice cream and spices
Kunnar - Kathakali masks
Gokarna -
Car street in the town and the Hippie flea market after sunset on Kudle beach are a couple of places for shopping for - Hippie souvenirs / Prayer beads / Incense / Sahyadri Cashews
Malvan - cashew gift packs, cashew bars and sweets / mango based products / Kokum wax - used as a beauty product
Dream Catcher Shop - Palolem Beach
Leather goods - in Matheran Hill Station and its famous Chikki from the Nariman Chikki Mart, also have chocolates, fudges, honey and jams, prices are cheaper during the week
Leopold's Cafe - souvenir shop T-shirts, postcards etc / Coloba Causeway - street markets in Mumbai for attractive souvenirs, retro Bollywood posters / Bandra Road Street Markets on weekends
Extra -
See 'Motorcycle Loops' - Coromandel 2 Malabar Tuk Tuk Trip and Holi Moo in 'Festivals'.
Golden Triangle Loop
Itinerary - 📄
Bangkok 2N
Chiang Mai 3N
70km
Chiang Dao 2N
85km
85km
Tha Ton 2N
55km
Thoet Thai 2N
90km
Sop Ruak 2N
75km
Chiang Rai 3N
100km
Phayao 2N
190 km
Tharnthong Lodges (Doi Saket) 1N
55km
Chiang Mai 1N
= 21N / 8Towns & 805km
Skill Level -
It's not too difficult. The hills get quite steep near Doi Ang Khang but thats more of a problem for the bike than you. Most of the roads are nice and quiet especially out near the Myanmar border.
When - ☀️
October to January is best - you don't want to be riding in the rain or the smoke
October, November is shoulder season and December, January is peak.
You really don't want to go during burning season which is January to March. It's hard to say when this is but October to December should be before it happens and you're probably okay through to early January.
Famous -
where the soccer team got stuck
Highlights -
Doi Mae Salong - KMT town
Black House / White Temple / Blue Temple
Chiang Rai Night Bazaar
Phayao Sunken Temple
Budget - 💸
It's quite a cheap trip. Daily costs are pretty low and you'll only be out on the booze about half of the time. Not too many Michelin starred restaurants out here either.
Pack - 🛄
Always take some wet weather and warm gear. It always rains on one day of the trip. Try to keep it light. Long johns are good. As is a spray jacket, gloves and a Garden bag to keep your pck dry. Octopus straps to hold your pack down.
Visa -
Many countries get 60 days on arrival at Thai Airports. Some land borders only give 15 days to some countries. Click Here.
Thailand has a new digital arrival card system called the TDAC. You will need to fill it out 3 days before each and every arrival. It's free so beware of scam sites trying to charge you. Click Here.
Airports - 🛫
Suvarnabhumi International Airport (BKK) -
there is a free shuttle service between here and (DMK) which has the cheap flights and airlines
Don Mueang International Airport (DMK)
Use a taxi to get out here
Chiang Mai International Airport (CNX)
Take the official airport taxi into town
Starting Town -
Chiang Mai -
Flying from Bangkok is cheap, the overnight train is fun and the bus is the cheapest and least desirable option. The old Don Mueang International Airport (DMK) has the cheap flights.
Spend a couple of days organising the bikes and anything else you may need.
Eat Khao Soi - Chiang Mai Laksa
Gaeng Hung Lay - Burmese pork curry
Sai Oua - Northern sausage
Khantoke dinner - and show
Check out the Night Bazaar and drink by the river, Loi Kroh and Nimmanhaemin
Rental -
Chiang Mai is full of rental places. Most with a pretty good reputation. Shop around and definitely take the bike for a test run and check it out thoroughly. Take a photo of any damage to it before you leave.
Make sure you get a decent helmet. the best sort have a flip down clear plastic visor which makes riding in the rain much easier.
For one person a 125cc Honda Wave has plenty of power. If there are 2 of you you might want to get something with a little more power.
Stay - @ or near 🏨
Bangkok -
Chiang Mai -
Chiang Dao -
Both feature great food Nest 1 is Gourmet European Nest 2 is Quality Thai
Doi Ang Khang -
Angkhang Choeng Doi Garden Resort
A Frames by the water
Tha Ton -
Thoet Thai -
Sop Ruak -
make sure to get a river view
Chiang Rai -
Phayao -
Doi Saket -
====================================================
About -
Fly into BANGKOK (see Bangkok in Cities for what to do) and get your bearings. Have a day seeing the sights and catch a cheap flight. Or get a second class sleeper in the overnight train. (Click on the plane at the bottom of this page to look for cheap flights)
Have a day or two getting your bike and equipment sorted out in CHIANG MAI. If you need straps or anything the local hardware stores will be able to help you out.
Have a hearty breakfast and make your way to CHIANG DAO. There are some nice accommodation options and equally good food here. See the cave, soak in the hot springs and unwind.
Up the hill to DOI ANG KHANG, there's a hot spring to warm up and then a waterfull to cool off at along the way.
Back down to the riverside town of THA TON. Grab a place by the river. It's a great spot to relax and enjoy a meal and a few beers by the water. Explore the 9 levels of Wat Thaton and then check out the afternoon BBQ stalls.
The next stop THOET THAI doesn't see too many tourists. Drug warlord Khun Sa and his Shan United Army (SUA) were based here. It was the second time he had lived here and he was popular because he had built schools, hospitals and provided electricity and water supplies.
He became an embarrassment for the Thai government and he was bombed by the Thai Air force and chased out by the Thai Army. It took three days of battle to remove him. He fled back to Burma just across the border from Mae Hong Son and came back bigger than ever.
He was known as "the Prince of Death", the "Heroin King" and the "King Of the Golden Triangle". He was once the most wanted man in the world. He controlled half of the world's heroin supply and offered Jimmy Carter a deal to destroy Burma's opium crop for just 20 million dollars a year. Jimmy knocked him back. He made the same offer to George Bush for $48 million.
You can wander around the camp and through his bedroom and toilet. There are pictures of him on the walls and a dummy or two to remind you of his presence. It is quite surreal to think what went on here.
The next stop became famous only relatively recently. When a young soccer team and their coach became trapped in a cave the whole world waited with baited breath to see if they would make it out alive. Follow the road along the border which is very scenic.
It was nice to see a good news story for a change as they all emerged from their ordeal unscathed and in good humour. Unfortunately one brave Thai Navy diver wasn't so lucky. The cave is now a tourist attraction with stalls selling souvenirs, T-shirts and as always in Thailand, food. They are working on a museum too.
The next couple of nights in SOP RUAK are in a wonderful hotel with great views of the Mekong River. You are now at the Golden Triangle. Here you can visit the Hall of Opium and the House of Opium. One is much bigger than the other but both are well worth a look.
You will learn interesting facts like Heroin was a brand name and was first produced commercially by German Pharmaceutical company Bayer. It was sold as a cough medicine and was considered a wonder drug. It was invented by an English Chemist named C.R. Alder Wright in 1874.
Grab your passport because you're going to Laos. It's possible to go across the river to the Lao PDR for a few hours (see tips below). There is a market over there selling some unusual things and it's a bit of fun talking to the locals.
On your way down to CHIANG RAI stop in for a look at the Black House.
Stay in a nice hotel near the Night Market. Spend a few days here to recharge and relax. There are a wide range of activities to entertain you including the White and Blue Temples. You've probably seen pictures of the White one. You can spend a day at the "beach" and enjoy some of the nightlife.
PHAYAO is not on the tourist radar which is a definite plus. This lakeside town is a hidden gem. They have great pubs with live music, a sunken temple, amazing sunsets and specialise in salt grilled fish. The best part of these motorbike trips is seeing authentic places and this is one of them.
As good as the scenery has been this penultimate leg has some of the best. Spend the night in the THARNTHONG LODGES an out of the way resort with great food. Visit the nearby hot springs for a relaxing soak and massage.
Back into CHIANG MAI today along Sankampaeng Road aka 'the Handicrafts Highway" which is one long craft village. Stop in and see wood carvers, umbrella painters, silk weavers, lacquer ware, bronze, pottery, leather and all manner of craftsmen plying their trade. It's the best place to pick up a bargain and they will gladly ship your new treasure home for you. No matter how big it is.
One last night in CHIANG MAI before heading home or onto your next adventure. If you are timing this for the Loy Krathong / Yee Peng Festival you will need at least 2 - 3 nights back in Chiang Mai. Phayao would be a great spot for Loy Krathong as well.
====================================================
History -
This area has had a very interesting history in recent times. In China before WWII there was a civil war going on in China between Mao and his communist army and the Nationalist or Kuomintang (KMT) government of Chiang Kai Shek. This was complicated by the annexing of Manchuria and eventual invasion by Japan. At one stage Mao and Chiang actually joined forces against the Japanese.
When Mao finally took power, Chiang and his army fled to Taiwan with many of China's treasures. Two KMT Regiments were isolated in Yunnan Province in the south of the country and 12,000 troops retreated across the border into Burma.
The CIA helped them try to retake Yunnan many times. The Burmese fought against them for 12 years before they made their way into northern Thailand. It costs a lot of money to maintain an army so they got involved in the opium game.
The Opium War of 1967 was fought with drug lord Khun Sa and his Shan United Army over the river in Ban Khwang in Laos. Both sides suffered as they were bombed by the Royal Lao Air Force. The people in Sop Ruak (where you are staying) had a front row seat.
Many battles were fought and a lot of these things happened in areas you will be riding through. Doi Mae Salong was said to be the biggest heroin refinery in all South East Asia. The CIA had offices near Khao San Road in Bangkok and in Chiang Mai. Assassinations, high level corruption, spies etc it was all happening. Ironic that the CIA had started the trade in the first place.
Some of the KMT were able to be repatriated to Taiwan but the majority remained a problem for Thailand.
Thailand granted them asylum on condition they helped protect the border against infiltration by communists. They also fought battles against Thai communists in other parts of the country.
A lot of students fled to the countryside and joined the communists at this time after their protests had been brutally crushed.
Eventually there was an amnesty for the communists, different crops were substituted for opium and the KMT soldiers put their weapons down.
There were also refugees from Yunnan over the years and there are now about 60 KMT villages around the north. Doi Mae Salong is one of the biggest ones. They maintain their Chinese heritage, grow Oolong Tea and make great Yunnanese Noodles.
See -
Do -
Bua Thong Waterfall - it's sticky underfoot
Herbal Sauna
Tea tasting
Off Road
Eat - 🍜
Ching Dao - Nest 1 and 2
Doi Mae Salong - Mae Salong Villa
Everywhere - Night Markets / Street Food
Chiang Rai - Night Bazaar Hot Pot
Salung Kham - Grandma's secret recipes
Phayao - Khao Soi Seng Pian - among the Khao Soi elite
Sunsets -
At the Golden Triangle
Sunken Temple - Phayao
Drink - 🍸
Chiang Mai - Loi Kroh / Riverside / Nimmanhaemin
Everywhere - Local bars and restaurants
Chiang Rai - Night Bazaar / Jetyod Rd / Par Club / Sperm Club / Hill Tribe Coffee
Phayao - Live Music Pubs
Tips -
You can cross over the bridge into Myanmar for a few hours at Mae Sai just go up to immigration to find out the rules.
And you can cross into Laos for a couple of hours at Sop Ruak by boat. You'll find passport controll set up by the riverside. They keep your passport and send you over with a photocopy.
Pump up the tyres on your bike quite hard. If you put your thumbs in the centre of the tread you should barely be able to push it in.
Always lock your bikes together.
Maps from GT riders are very handy as is their website
Saturday night is Walking Street in Chiang Rai
Sunday is Market night in Phayao
Safety -
Slow is safe. You will encounter many hazards along the way and the slower you are going the more chance you will survive them. Pot holes, animals, mad bus and truck drivers etc.
At the end of every motor vehicle accident story in the papers is the line "and the driver fled the scene".
On the roads in Asia there is one rule. Smaller things give way to bigger things. At least on a bike you have plenty of room to get out of the way. And you know where you stand in the pecking order - right at the bottom.
Don't let this scare you off what is a fantastic experience. It just means you don't need to rent a big powerful bike and go hell for leather.
When the road is good and clear you can still give it a handful and there is nothing like the feeling of cruising through the bends in the afternoon light with just a subtle shift of your weight.
The ever reliable 125 has plenty enough power to get you up the steepest hills. And they're incredibly cheap.
If you want some more comfort or there are 2 on the bike something bigger would be a good idea. The Honda Forza scooter is a good choice.
Short easy days are the way to go. You're on holidays. Don't ride in the dark.
Specialties -
Elephant Poo Coffee - the world's most expensive coffee - from the Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp
Chiang Mai and Phayao are famed for their beautiful ladies
Phayao Salt Grilled Fish - Fish, Beer, Scenery
Souvenirs -
Insect flavoured liqueurs
Scorpion and snake wines
Oolong Tea
Elephant Poo Coffee
Extra -
Have a look at Bangkok and Chiang Mai in Cities
Chiang Mai has an International Airport with direct flights to cities in neighbouring countries - see Airports above.
Have a look at the other Motorbike Loops - Thailand, Myanmar, Laos and Singapore in Countries - Loy Krathong, Fire Balloons and Lao New Year in Festivals and Golfing Nomads.
Isaan Golf Loop Plus + 🏝️
ITINERARY
THAILAND
Bangkok 3N -
Amphawa 4N -
Don Mueang 2N -
Nong Khai 5N –
LAO PDR
Vientiane 5N –
THAILAND
Udon Thani 2N –
Sangkhom 3N –
3 hr 50 min / 210 km
(ENROUTE – Wat Ban Waeng -
Butta Bat Bua Bok - Phu Phra Bat Historical Park
– Si Chiang Mai Riverwalk – Than Thong Waterfall
& Wat Pha Tak Suea Skywalk)
Chiang Khan 3N –
1 hr 50 min / 110 km
(ENROUTE – Than Thip Waterfall -
Nong Pla Buek Viewpoint)
Na Houa 1N -
2½ hr / 120 km
(Enroute - Big Buddha & Sky Walk)
Khao Kho 2N -
3 hr 50 min / 199 km
Phu Pha Nam Resort 2N -
2 hr / 110 km
Phu Ruea 2N -
25mins / 25 km
Loei 3N -
1 hr / 55 km
(ENROUTE sunrise at Phu Ruea National Park – Road of Flowers – Floating raft lunch at Huai Krathing)
Ubolratana Dam -
2 hr 50 min / 155 k FREE GOLF THURSDAY!!
(ENROUTE – Erawan Cave - Par Chor Cave)
Red Lotus Lake 1N -
2 hr 40 min / 115 km
Udon Thani 2N –
Loi Krathong 1h45m / 72k
Ranong 5N - Ferry
MYANMAR
Victoria Point 4N -
THAILAND
Ko Chang Noi 7N -
Ko Phayam 7N -
Chumpon 5N -
Cha-Am 7N/30N - (or spend a month and stay for Christmas)
Lat Krabang 2N
= 79N - (or an extra 3 weeks at Cha-Am for Xmas) = 102N
THAI LIGHTS
• Thailand’s Stonehenge
• The Giant Thermometer, Big Crab & a Large Lobster
• The best Pad Thai in the world
• The only Michelin starred street food in the world
• Sunsets beers on the Mekong
• Free flow Trader Vic’s Tiki Cocktails
• The best curry crab in Asia
• The Spring Roll Wrapper Capital of Thailand
• The 6 Sky Walks of Issan + 1 South
• One of Thailand's most beautiful villages
• The best Thai curry in the world
• North Eastern Thailand's best kept secret
• Some of the most interesting people in South East Asia - (Thai Dam)
• The coldest place in Thailand
• The first Thai Winery to commercially produce quality wine
• Best beer in Thailand
• The World’s largest museum
• Over a dozen remote golf courses
Thailands best Gai Yang (Isaan Grilled Chicken)
The Bhutan of Thailand
Thailand’s Hidden Gem for Riders - The Scenic “Number 9 Road”
The 3rd most healing hot-spring in the World!
JOBS
Book Loi Krathong nights early
You will need a cheap flight from Bangkok to Udon Thani from the old Don Mueang Airport (DMK) as you will be playing golf and staying here.
Also from Udon Thani to Ranong via Bangkok.
• Passport photos and US$ for Lao visa, bike deposits and back up. You can use US$ cash in Myanmar as well. Make sure all notes are pristine when you get them and make sure they stay that way.
• Waterproofs for the bikes
• Take driver’s licence & International Drivers Licence
• Photocopies of passport
• Golf balls, tees, gloves, fold up clubs & suitable day-pack, tailored shorts, golf shirts
• Travel Light
• Take bathers
• Chiang Khan and Nong Khai and anywhere on the Mekong is close to Laos, set the roaming on your phone to manual because it may change to Laos’s network and cost you unecessarily. - Get e-sims from helloyoufriedegg
The timing of this trip centres around the time of the Naga Balls Festival in Nong Khai. Everything is timed to be there at the appropriate time. The Naga Balls typically appear on the night of Wan Ok Phansa, at the end of Buddhist Lent, which falls on the full moon of the 11th lunar month. As this date changes every year you will need to know when it is before you start planning. You can get AI to scrape it for you.
Check if the border is open between Ranong and Kawthoung before you leave.
VISAS - for most Western Passports (Double-check)
THAILAND
93 countries get a visa exemption for 60 days. You will get 60 days again when coming back from Laos and Myanmar.
Thailand has a new digital arrival card system called the TDAC. You will need to fill it out 3 days before each and every arrival. It's free so beware of scam sites trying to charge you. Click Here.
Dont forget to redo it before you come back from Laos and Myanmar.
Generally there is no limit to the amount of times you can arrive in Thailand by air but you are restricted to two land border crossings per year.
LAO PDR
Visa On Arrival at the border - have around US pristine $40 + extras (can also use baht and a passport photo. You will get 30 days which you can extend twice.
MYANMAR
28 day single entry on arrival. Around US pristine $50.
THAILAND
BANGKOK - 3N – 11,234,000
STAY
New Siam Riverside *** - Riverside pool
Job
Organise tee time and rental clubs if necessary for Kantarat Golf Course
It is recommended to use the main phone number (+66 2 534 3841) to confirm club rental availability, current pricing, and book tee times.
Address : 171 ถนน วิภาวดีรังสิต Sanambin, Don Mueang
Eat
The family-run restaurant has been serving it's signature dish for over 40 years using a broth that is continuously simmered in a giant cauldron with fresh ingredients added daily. -- Phra Athit Rd
Back in 1943, long before nearby Khao San Road had become a thing, Roti Mataba was founded by a Muslim man named Abdul Kareem from Southern India. As India and much of the world were thrown into World War II turmoil, Thailand remained a relatively peaceful place which prompted him to re-settle in the then impoverished Banglamphu area of Bangkok.
The food obsessed Thais embraced Kareem’s roti bread, particularly when he stuffed it with Indian and southern Thai curries to make mataba. The menu features sweet options as well like banana and chocolate roti. -- Opposite Phra Sumen Fort
Sor Roong Roj – Best duck noodle soup since 1963
Is a highly regarded restaurant located in Bangkok's Nang Loeng Market. Known for its traditional Thai and Chinese cuisine, particularly the duck dishes. The eatery has a long history, starting as a street stall in 1963 and evolving into a fully fledged restaurant.
Their specialty is braised duck, including duck noodles and braised duck with rice. The restaurant has a reputation for being a favorite among locals and also some celebrities. -- Soi Nakhon Sawan 6 (next to Nang Loeng market) 2km walk
Best Kao Man Gai – Street vendor Korbua Soi
The Khao Man Gai (Hainanese chicken rice) stall in the laneway leading to Korbua House Hotel in Banglamphu is well known and celebrated by locals and savvy tourists for its quality and authenticity. Good for a light night feed.
Patonggo Café – since 1968
Is best known for putting a creative twist on the patonggo or Chinese donut made from Grandpa’s secret dough recipe. Royalty have dined here. The cafe offers a wide variety of sweet and savory dishes featuring patonggo, including grilled patonggo with pandan custard, patonggo with ice cream, and even patonggo with spicy seafood salad. The café has earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand distinction, a testament to its quality food at reasonable prices. The menu also includes other savory Thai-Chinese dishes like steamed rice noodle rolls and crispy pork with rice. Corner across from Korbua Soi
Mont Nom Sod - the original branch
A Bangkok institution since 1964 when they started selling steamed toast and fresh milk on the street. Popular choices include the classic condensed milk, sugar and butter, and their signature pandan-flavored coconut custard (kaya). They also offer spreads like chocolate, taro, and orange jam. The bread is famously crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, a texture that has kept people coming back for decades. Hours: 12pm – 11pm Dinsor Road, Saochingcha Futher down and opposite side to Krua Apsorn
The best place in the world to eat Thai curry. The restaurant's reputation is built on recipes from its founder Chef Chanchavee "Aunty Daeng" Skulkant who cooked for members of the Thai royal family. Her royal recipes and a focus on quality ingredients have earned the restaurant a Michelin Bib Gourmand award. -- 196 Dinso Road, Bangkok
Ayeesah Roddee Halal – has a red & white sign in Thai with a star & moon
Is a historic and celebrated eatery in Banglamphu, recognized with a Michelin Bib Gourmand. Opened in 1975 by the son of Indonesian migrants it is known for serving aromatic, Indonesian inspired halal fare.
The most popular dish is the biryani. Other dishes include hot and sour beef soup, beef satay and oxtail soup and the prices are very reasonable.103 - 105 Tani Rd, Bangkok - Daily 9:00-16:00, 17:00-21:00
👻Pratu Phi – (Ghost Gate) after 6pm after sunset on the Golden Mount
Thip Samai – World famous Pat Thai
They’re open only for dinner and pump out the pad Thai until late. Expect to wait to be seated if you arrive between 6 pm and 10 pm.
Raan Jai Fai ⭐ - That is a Michelin star
Jay Fai is a nickname loosely translated as "Sister Mole" for the prominent growth on the face of the chef. She started her eponymous shophouse restaurant nearly 40 years ago, when Bangkok was a different world.
Since then, this humble restaurant has become one of the city's most-revered culinary institutions. Chefs, restaurateurs and celebrities like Russell Crowe sing her praises and patrons queue up nightly for heaped portions of phad kee mao talay (drunken noodles with seafood), poo phad phong karee (stir-fried crab with yellow curry), and her legendary khai jeaw poo (crab omelet).
That omelet clocks in at Bt1,000 (US$30).
🌶️Phed Mark เผ็ดมาร์ค - Mark Wien of Migrationology fame
Some of the city's best pad krapow with the waiting lines being reported as the third longest in Bangkok - after the two above.
Pork, sour pork, squid, beef, wagyu, wagyu shin. Now has the third longest line after Thip Samai and Ja - 300 Sukhumvit Rd, Phra Khanong, Khlong Toei, Bangkok 10110, Thailand - just outside Ekamai Bus Station between Sois 40 and 42 opposite Soi 63. 11 am - 5 pm Closed Sundays
🥢Chop Chop Cook Shop - By David Thompson - Walk in or Bookings
Located on the ground floor at 328 Yaowarat Rd Chinatown. A Chinese roast meat and noodle shop. Open everyday except Wednesday from 12 noon - 10pm.
DID Dine in the Dark - at the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit -
Spend 90 minutes trying to work out what you're eating. It's great fun and pretty good value for a 5***** hotel. Most importantly you are helping to support some wonderful people and you will learn a few things.
Trader Vic's - at the Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort
A key feature is the food prepared in their Chinese wood-fired oven. Menu highlights often include dishes like Beef Cho Cho (marinated beef skewers), various seafood and meat options, and signature tropical cocktails.
A popular offering is the "Luau Fiesta Sunday Brunch." It's a lavish spread that includes a variety of fresh seafood, slow-roasted meats, live cooking stations (including teppanyaki and BBQ), and a wide selection of desserts. The brunch often includes live music and performances, creating a festive and immersive experience and a free flowing bar.
The restaurant is situated on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, offering scenic views and a refreshing breeze, especially from its outdoor seating area.
The decor is centered around Tiki Culture, with tropical floral decorations and a playful, spirited atmosphere.
It's easily accessible by a complimentary shuttle boat service from the Saphan Taksin BTS station, which adds to the experience with a scenic ride along the river.
Victor Bergeron aka Trader Vic -
Trader Vic's has a long history, starting in 1934 in Oakland, California, founded by Vic "The Trader" Bergeron. He is credited with inventing the Mai Tai after a successful court decision against his rival Don the Beachcomber in the 1970s.
The brand is credited as one of the first successful themed restaurant chains, and it expanded internationally in the 1960s. Trader Vic's Bangkok has been a part of this global family since 1993, maintaining the brand's tradition of exotic cuisine and legendary cocktails.
SUN 🌞
Amorosa Bar - Best Sunset Bar in Bangkok but has become $$$
Most Bangkokians don’t know that the best view of Wat Arun (the Temple of Dawn) is seen from across the river, from the 4th floor of the stylish Arun Residence and its bar Amorosa. This cozy open air bar overlooks the Chao Phraya River and Wat Arun as the sun sets over it and the lights go on illuminating the temple, providing one of the most outstanding views in Bangkok. The atmosphere in Amorosa is laid back, with no dress code.
DRINK 🍹
Cheapest Riverside Bar in Bangkok - small wooden bar hanging out over the Chao Phraya river with great views!
Close to Sky Bar which is excellent for sunset. Just have one drink if you don't like the prices.
In Chinatown on the 2nd floor above David Thompson's Chop Chop Cook Shop restaurant In the Goldsmith building at 328 Yaowarat Rd. With 13 signature cocktails reminiscing 1920's Shanghai.
DO
At any time, you can take an orange or green flag Chao Phraya express boat direct to Nonthaburi pier (the last stop), then catch a taxi to the pier in Pak Kret for around 100 baht. Taxis are readily available for the return trip. Or you can hire a longtailed boat to take you up to the island which is another 20 minutes North.
Cross-river ferries run throughout the day to Ko Kret’s Wat Poramaiyikawas pier from Wat Sanam Nuea, a 10-minute walk or 20 baht motorbike taxi ride from the main Pak Kret pier. The five-minute trip across the river costs two baht. You can also arrange for a boat to take you directly to Ko Kret from the main Pak Kret pier or all the way from one of Bangkok’s piers.
The track around Ko Kret is only 5 km long, and you can easily see most of the island in an afternoon by push bike. Rented bicycles are readily available in the village for 40 baht, near where the ferry arrives at Wat Poramaiyikawas, and maps are provided. The island is nice and flat. You can also flag down a longtail boat from anywhere along the river. These will cruise you around the island and stop at some of the outlying temples, or perhaps Khlong Khong Wan, a canal lined by sweets shops.
You can also hire a motorbike taxi lady if you'd rather. The island is famous for its pottery and there are several villages which specialise in this. It is also famous for it's Thai Desserts. Also there is the leaning Pagoda
The Rongsi Studio is a cafe set in an old rice mill and a great coffee stop. Find somewhere interesting for lunch. At the end of the tour settle into Chit Beer for a few frothies looking out at the river. It has an interesting back story. And a little further on De Pala is another good beer stop.
Catch the ferry back straight across the river to the mainland. Get a taxi to the Nonthaburi Civic Centre Metro Station. Catch the MRT to Tao Poon Station where you will transfer from the purple to the blue line. Next stop Sukhumvit - this station connects with the Asok BTS Sky Train Station.
Day Trip Around Bangkok -- MAP
Take the canal boat to Jim Thompsons house, look around Siam Square and MBK then have Crab Curry at Somboon Seafood Banthat. Could head back to Chinatown or Jack & X's Bar and end up at Asiatique.
GOLF ⛳
Could play the The Royal Gems Golf City - Dream Arena. Need to book with local agency and it will probably be $250 - $300 per head for a package. Or could play a cheaper course. Try Taigolf.
SUN
Golden Mount - Wat Saket - “Hair Washing Temple”
Entrances on Boriphat Rd and Worachak Rd
Mon – Sun: 8 am – 7 pm
DRINK
Khin Lom Chom Saphan - Walking distance
nice at night bridge lights until 9pm. Go for sunset, bridge view, live music and pineapple fried rice.
Amphawa - 4N - MAP check current train timetables
Time to get out of the big city for a break. You will be riding on what was a private railway (Known as the Mae Klong - Maha Chai Railway) and having a nice long seafood lunch looking out over the river along the way. Later you will visit the famous train market and end up at the best floating market in Thailand where you will be staying for the weekend. There has been a market around this canal for over 400 years. It is very popular with Bangkokians who love to come here and eat.
· First of all you'll need to retrace your steps and make your way to the Phra Athit pier and get off at Central / Sathorn. From her go to the BTS Skytrain Station Saphan Taksin and head west for two stops to BTS Wongwian Yai. Click here to go to the interactive maps. Then click South and Amphawa in the Itinerary. You can follow the directions from there if you like.
· From here walk 700m north to the Wongwian Yai Train Station. Trains run every 30 mins to an hour starting from 5.30 am. It takes an hour to get to the first destination. It would pay to double check all of this information as timetables change sometimes.
Get off the train at the the end of the line at the Maha Chai Train Station. It's a short walk from here to the restaurant and you an have a look at the seafood market on the way. This is the largest and most important in Thailand.
Settle in at the Tha Ruea Fish Restaurant and have a nice long and relaxed lunch. The second floor is said to be best. There is also a rooftop restaurant and bar by the pier. Keep a few of your wits as you've still got some navigating to do 😃
That was the Mahachai part of the railroad now it's time to do the Mae Klong section. You will need to catch the ferry across the river to the Tha Chalom pier walk out, turn right and find the Ban Laem Railway Station which is about 400m away. You'll need to be here early for the 1.30 pm or 4.40 pm train which takes an hour. Otherwise you can catch a bus from the market, but it would be nice to arrive at the Mae Klong Train Market on the train wouldn't it? You may need to come back over the weekend and see it from the outside if you're on the last train.
Have a look around the market if you like then it is a short taxi ride to your hotel in the Amphawa Floating Market.
Stay - Book early as it gets busy on weekends
Excellent canal-front location in the floating market, cosy traditional wooden homestay, outdoor deck looking out over the water, outdoor dining area, lounge, mini-mart, bicycle hire, free parking, good breakfast included
*Thanicha Resort Amphawa *** 8.8 -
Excellent location canal side in the floating market, free bikes, terrace, restaurant, garden, lounge, outdoor seating area, free parking, buffet breakfast usually included
RoomQuest Rimrabeang At Amphawa 8.3 -
Excellent location on the waterfront at the floating market, terrace, hot tub / jacuzzi, balcony, river views, mini-mart, breakfast included
Amphawa Nanon Hotel *** 9.0 - Modern Hotel
Great location just 50m from the floating market and next to a 7/11, live entertainment in rooftop restaurant & bar, bicycle rental, terrace restaurant, coffee house, spa & wellness centre, good breakfast included, 700 bt for an extra bed, tour desk, massage, safety box, free parking, tea & coffee maker in room, outdoor furniture, BBQ facilities, coffee house, ATM, 24 hour desk, concierge service, mini-mart, packed lunches
First day travel and arrive to a quiet market
Second day visit the market and local attractions - firefly cruise
Third day visit Chang & Eng, the sand bar and the razor clams, canal cruise
Fourth day play golf
DO
The Amphawa Floating Market offers a wonderful mix of traditional Thai culture, delicious food and natural beauty. It's an afternoon/evening market that is most active on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, generally from 2:00 PM to 8:00 PM.
Savor the Floating Street Food -
The main attraction is the central canal, where vendors cook and sell food directly from their boats, passing dishes up to diners sitting on the riverbanks. The banks are also lined with traditional wooden houses, now converted into charming shops and cafes.
Must-try dishes -
Freshly grilled river prawns, squid, and shellfish served with a spicy, sour Thai dipping sauce.
Boat Noodles (Kuay Teow Reua) a traditional dish famous in floating markets, often served in small coconut-shell bowls with pork or beef and a rich, savory broth.
Traditional Thai Desserts like Mango Sticky Rice, Coconut Ice Cream and Khanom Krok (coconut-rice pancakes).
Shop for Local Handicrafts and Souvenirs.
Soak in the Atmosphere - the market is known for its authentic local feel attracting many Thai families. The best time to experience its magical charm is in the evening around 6 - 8 pm when lanterns light up the canal and the scent of grilled food fills the air.
Go Firefly Watching (Evening Tour) -
This is the most famous activity at Amphawa. After dark, you can take a long-tail boat tour to witness the enchanting sight of thousands of fireflies lighting up the cork trees along the Mae Klong River. This is a must-do if you visit in the evening and is quite cheap.
Longtail boat cruises -
You can take a longer boat tour that explores the surrounding canals and local way of life. (public or hire your own - there are 300 canals around here!)
Revisit the Maeklong Railway Market (Talad Rom Hub)
Just a 10-minute drive from Amphawa vendors sell their wares right on the active train tracks, rapidly pulling their awnings (rom hub or 'umbrella fold') and stalls back a few times a day when the train passes through.
Visit King Rama II Memorial Park - museum, traditional performances
Get up early to see Buddhist Monks paddling along collecting alms from the villagers
See how Palm Sugar is made (a local specialty)
Somdul Bee Sanctuary - cafe
If you want to go for a small excursion you could visit the Chang and Eng Memorial (the original Siamese Twins) where they were born (plus a local boat museum) Lat Yai Mueang Samut Songkhram Samut Songkhram 75000. Then head to “The Eminence,” a famous sand bar at Don Hoi Lot and have a feast of razor clams at one of the many seafood restaurants.
GOLF
Named for its dramatic sweeping natural landscape. A golfing experience unlike any other course in Thailand
DRINK
Even on weekends there is not a lot of nightlife action when the market closes down. You will find a few bars where you can get a drink and your best bet would be a riverside restaurant with a nice view.
And the rooftop restaurant and bar at the Amphawa Nanon Hotel.
Don Mueang 2N - MAP
Back to Don Mueang to play the famous Kantarat Golf Course
This unique golfing experience may not be around for much longer.
TRANSPORT
Taking a taxi / Bolt all the way from Amphawa is probably the easiest way or you could catch lots of buses or trains
STAY -
Montri Resort Donmuang Bangkok ** 7.8 -
Resort & Spa boasting Thai-style architecture, great location close to the golf course, the airport and the nightlife (as the crow flies) - but due to logistics and the expressway etc you will need to take taxis everywhere, or a tuk tuk to the nightlife, all day dining at the authentic Thai restaurant, outdoor swimming pool, charged airport shuttle, breakfast included, sun terrace, garden, pub crawls, cable TV, snack bar, packed lunches, 24 hour desk, mini-mart
GOLF
Is a famous course around the world due to it's unique location situated between the two airport runways of Don Mueang International Airport. It was owned by the Royal Thai Air Force but it has been sold to AOT the Airports of Thailand so it might not be around much longer.
The public are welcome and for such a popular bucket list course it is amazingly cheap. You need to carry your clubs through, from the security check and caddies and carts are compulsory. But they're cheap too! Balls that get too close to the runways are just called lost. Clubs are available for hire. It pays to have a tee time booked or you might be hanging around for a while.
Weekdays are about half the price of weekends.
Hours are 6 am to 4 pm so you should tee off before midday.
Eating & Drinking
*Nuea Nakhon เนื้อนคร (Stewed Beef Noodle) or Joy Khaosoi Chiang Mai
This small, unassuming shop is known for serving what some consider the best stewed beef noodles and khao soi (Northern Thai curry noodles) in the area. It's an authentic, high-quality street food experience that locals and food bloggers rave about and is a true "must-try" for local Thai flavors. Just up from the MRT Station - see map
*Baik Baik -
An amazing hideaway that transports you away from the city bustle, to a tranquil oasis in Bali.
The restaurant is surrounded by numerous plant species, fountains, and a large pond, creating a peaceful, garden-like environment.
Live music further enhances the experience.
5 Soi Song Prapha 18, Khwaeng Si Kan, Khet Don Mueang - just up from Soi Song Prapha 12 (Night Life Street)
Open daily from 11 am - midnight
Ozone One Market Don Mueang - Night Market
Sprawling, well-organized open-air night market.
Vibrant and lively, especially after dark. It is spacious, clean and a popular spot for locals to have dinner and socialize.
Open daily from 5:00 PM to 11:00 PM.
Street Food and Dining - Ozone One Market is a destination for foodies, featuring a massive selection of Thai street food and dining options at very affordable prices.
There are plenty of seating areas and tables, making it comfortable to buy food from different stalls and enjoy a full meal.
The market area is surrounded by various restaurants and bars, and there's a designated live music zone (sometimes called the "ozone zone") where you can chill and enjoy a drink on certain nights.
The Celebrity Cat
A major highlight for many visitors is Je Phil (เจ๊ฟิล), the orange tabby cat who has gained celebrity status. He is the mascot of the Doggy Step pet accessory shop and is famous for his calm demeanor and willingness to pose while wearing various adorable costumes.
Drinking Beer
You can purchase beer from the dedicated bars/drink stalls within the market or from the surrounding establishments and consume it at the market's seating areas.
The market is 3 kms up Song Phrapa Road (west of the Expressway) on the LHS.
Soi Song Prapha 12 - Pubs, Bars & Live Music
Head down the end of this street and you will find a bunch of night time places of which most are open between the hours of 6 pm and 12 am.
Get High is 5 pm - 1 am.
Fly out next day to Udon Thani and take the Airport Shuttle up to Nong Khai.
ISAAN 🌾
NONG KHAI 5N - Naga City MAP
Naga Balls & Dragon Boat Races
Day 1 – Flight from Bangkok - Organise Naga Balls day, Orientate
Day 2 - Golf at Victory and 19th at the Rum distillery (maybe an overnighter) + Thailand’s best Gai Yang
Day 3 - Naga Balls day? - off to Phon Phisai
Day 4 - Wat Pho Chai, Sculpture Park, Chinese Festivities
Day 5 – Bamboo rafts on Phan Lake / Wetlands ride / Relaxing in the Mekong River at "Huai Talung Beach"
STAY -
It is essential to book a room months in advance if you want top local accommodation
HUG Khieng Khong Nongkhai Hostel 8.9 - House available
Excellent location close to the centre of everything, terrace, garden restaurant, free bicycles, lounge, outdoor seating area, coffee shop, fabulous buffet breakfast included, free parking, snack bar, safety box
Amanta Hotel Nongkhai **** 8.5 - Great Value, 700b for extra bed
Great location close to the river and 15 mins walk to Walking Street, tea & coffee maker in room, fitness centre, lush garden, terrace, restaurant, bar, 24 hour desk, very good breakfast included, safety box, free parking
Asawann Hotel Nongkhai *** 7.6 - Pay on Site
Good location out on the main road, restaurant, garden, mini-mart, restaurant, free parking, very good breakfast included, 24 hour desk, safety box
ABOUT - 59,776 - Sentinel of the Mekong
Nong Khai, situated on the banks of the mighty Mekong River, has historically served as a vital cultural and political gateway between Thailand (Siam) and Laos (Lan Xang). Its deep connection to the river is immortalized by the cherished legend of Phra Sai, Phra Suk, and Phra Serm, three highly revered Buddha images crafted for the daughters of a Lan Xang king.
During the reign of King Rama III in the 19th century, these statues were transported from Vientiane to Siam. Tragically, the Phra Suk image was lost when it sank into the Mekong during a fierce storm. Phra Sai remains enshrined today at Wat Pho Chai, Nong Khai’s royal temple, while Phra Serm was ultimately moved to Bangkok.
The town faced severe turbulence in the latter 19th century during the Hor Rebellions (Haw Wars). These conflicts saw Chinese irregulars from Yunnan, fleeing the Qing dynasty, pillage the Isaan region. Nong Khai became a crucial military base for Siamese forces tasked with suppressing the rebels. The Prap Ho Monument stands in the city today, commemorating those who died defending the region against these invasions. Following the 1893 Franco-Siamese War, the French occupation of Laos momentarily placed Nong Khai under French influence until 1932.
The city’s destiny shifted again during the Vietnam War (1955–1975). While the main U.S. air base was nearby in Udon Thani, Nong Khai functioned significantly as an overflow hub for support staff and as a key Rest and Relaxation (R&R) destination for American servicemen. The proximity to the Laotian capital, Vientiane, also made it a major refuge point. During the communist revolution of the 1970s, the city welcomed thousands of Lao, Vietnamese, and Chinese immigrants, fundamentally diversifying its culture and commerce. Today, Nong Khai thrives as a primary crossing point, connected to Laos by the First Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge.
TIPS
• In Samkhong, Chiang Khan, Nong Khai and anywhere on the Mekong close to Laos, set the roaming on your phone to manual because it may change to Laos’s network which makes your phone call fees much higher than usual. Get an e-sim from the website and just use data.
• Tourist Office: Pajak Rd + Udon Nong Khai Rd. (W end of Prajec Rd.) 8.30 am - 4.30 pm. Very helpful. Maps are available.
• There are many maps posted throughout the town but much info on the map board is wrong including the location of the tourist office.
Tuk Tuks have the price of fares on the back of the drivers seat. Much of the town is walkable.
NAGA FIRE BALLS
The Naga Fireballs (Bang Fai Phaya Nak) are an annual spectacle observed along a 250 km stretch of the Mekong River. Primarily at Phon Phisai near Nong Khai and occurring during the full moon at the end of Buddhist Lent in late October or early November. Tens to thousands of reddish, glowing orbs silently emerge from the water's surface, rise rapidly hundreds of feet into the night sky, and vanish.
The phenomenon is deeply shrouded in mystery as no single explanation is conclusively accepted. Local folklore maintains that the fireballs are the breath or tribute of the mythical Phaya Nak, a giant serpent residing in the Mekong, honoring the Buddha's return from heaven.
Skeptics and scientists offer competing, unproven theories. One popular scientific hypothesis suggests the fireballs are caused by the spontaneous combustion of flammable gases - like methane or phosphine - generated by decaying organic matter in the riverbed, which ignite upon contact with air as they surface.
Conversely, other skeptics claim the lights are merely tracer rounds or flares fired by people across the river.
Despite decades of study, high-tech monitoring, and passionate debate, the exact, definitive source remains unknown, preserving the event's mystical allure.
Coinciding with the Naga Fireball Festival and the end of Buddhist Lent, Nong Khai hosts an exciting Boat Racing Festival on the Mekong River. This cultural event features thrilling long-boat races between teams from both Thailand and Laos. The competition reinforces community bonds and provides a lively daytime element to the Ok Phansa celebrations. Teams row in rhythm, cheered on by spectators, as the festival marks a significant spiritual and social occasion for the communities along the border.
The fireballs have appeared as far afield as Sang Khom and Bung Kan, but are generally most numerous at Phon Phisai, 40km east of Nong Khai. The locals at Phon Phisai believe that the area they live in is the gateway to the subterranean world under the water. This is the best place to view and party but take care on the way back, when the road is thronged with drunk drivers.
EAT
During the festival the entire Mekong riverfront transforms into a vibrant, bustling fairground.
Numerous street food stalls and markets pop up along the walking streets offering authentic local Thai and Isan delicacies (like som tum, grilled meats, and river fish).
Local flea markets and OTOP (One Tambon One Product) stalls are set up, allowing visitors to purchase unique regional handicrafts, souvenirs, and traditional products.
In addition to the longboat races (dragon boat racing) and the main event of the fireballs, there are usually traditional Thai music and dance performances, concerts, light-and-sound shows, and illuminated boat parades on the river itself.
The atmosphere during the festival is highly festive and celebratory, drawing huge crowds of both Thai and international visitors.
Don't miss Rudi’s apple pie, it is a 'must try'. Rudi’s bread is the best in Nong Khai and the same can be said for his salami and cheese. He makes a fantastic breakfast and his pate is incredible. Not to mention the blueberry cheesecake and German hotdogs.
Has A/C - the best coffee in town, brownies and matcha cakes.
Ca Phe Viet Vietnamese Restaurant -
Very popular restaurant with - Vietnamese baguettes (Bánh Mì), Vietnamese sausage, noodle soups, Isaan dishes, and Vietnamese coffee.
Nong Khai's most famous and popular restaurant. So famous a Thai Princess comes here once a month and out of towners come in tour buses.
This restaurant and Thai Thai next door are two of the most popular restaurants in Nong Khai. Large and busy in an open airy setting, their Chinese and Thai food are excellent and good value. Good duck too.
Foriegner friendly food with outdoor tables - riverside.
SUNSET
There are numerous restaurants and bars along the riverside promenade where you can grab a drink and watch the sunset.
The Amanta Hotel has an open-air rooftop bar called Sky Bear (because they themed it with lots of bears ) with 360 degree views.
Sky View Bar - at the Samaor Riverside Hotel has a 360-degree open-air rooftop area with stunning views of the Mekong River and the Friendship Bridge.
Daily 4 pm - 12 am
Nearby Sabai Poshtel Hotel - also has an excellent rooftop bar
Sunset Boat Cruise - which leaves from the pier at 5 pm each evening. Food and drinks are available on board and the trip lasts about an hour.
DRINK 🍺
Nong Khai hosts a Thai-Lao Rowing Festival on the Mekong River, which takes place around the same time as the Naga Fireball phenomenon.
It's a loud, energetic daytime affair.
The overall festival surrounding the fireballs includes a major bazaar, food fairs, and cultural performances.
A highlight is the contest of floating and illuminated boats (called Lai Heua Fai) in worship of the Naga, along with a spectacular light and sound presentation.
The Waterfront Atmosphere and Bars
While permanent bars and restaurants exist on the Nong Khai riverfront promenade, the festival atmosphere is dominated by temporary vendors and large crowds
Lively Walking Streets - These are set up with stalls selling an incredible array of local Isaan cuisine, snacks, crafts, and souvenirs. The food fair aspect is a huge part of the celebration.
Temporary Drinking Spots - Drinks, including beer are readily available from countless vendors and stalls that pop up along the riverbank and main roads in the viewing districts (like Phon Phisai and Rattanawapi).
For a Thai style night club with live music, light shows and dancers there is the Big Apple. This is a bit further out on Hwy 233. There are others out here in the Chic Chic market area too as well as a night market and restaurants for dinner. Just look for the Thai Airways jet.
DO - MAP
Golf Trip to Victory Park Golf & Country Club - Hire a motor-bike, or organise a car and driver if you want to overindulge at the 19th.
Stop off for bruch along the way for some of the best Gai Yang (Grilled Chicken) in Thailand – 20 mins from Nong Khai
In fact there are a few of them on the left hand side after – you turn right off of Hwy 2 on to the 211 to Loei – (to get to the golf course you turn left) – the golf course is signed along the way.
Finish off with a visit to the Issan Rum Distillery.
Mae Nong - the most famous Gai Yang restaurant 🐔
Where do you find the best grilled chicken in Thailand? There are supporters of the flavourful free-range chicken of Khao Suan Kwang and those who proclaim the well-sauced chicken of Wichienburi is best.
Then there’s Nong Song Hong, between Udon Thani and Nong Khai, where devotees claim the chicken to be juicier and fattier than rivals. Each restaurant on the main street is considered equally delicious, but some are more equal than others. Mae Nong the biggest and most famous boasts an air-conditioned dining room and possibly the best Gai Yang in the country. The holy trinity is the chicken + som tam (papaya salad) + khao niaw (sticky rice) and they must all be ordered and eaten together.
It's on the first corner on the left. The Thai script is แม่นองไก่ย่าง หนองสองห้อง.
Victory Park Golf & Country Club - 🏌️♂️
Round trip - head south on the 233 - merge with 2 - turn right on 211 for grilled chicken the back across the same intersection where you will see the golf sign on the left.
Follow maps.me back to the Issan Rum Distillery.
Follow maps.me NW back to Hwy 2 north.
The course was established in 1997 and is the first 18 hole course in Nong Khai Province. The terrain is relatively flat, but the layout is strategically challenging, featuring mature native trees lining the fairways and water hazards that add difficulty.
Hole 13 (Par 3): Considered a signature hole, requiring a shot of about 170 yards over water to a wide but shallow green, posing a significant challenge.
Hole 7 (Par 5): The longest hole (approx. 599 yards), with water running along the right side and cutting in front of the green.
Fairways are reported to be well-maintained. The greens are small and run at a medium to fast speed. The course has hosted several regional tournaments, including the Heineken Amateur Thailand Championship and British Open Qualifying events.
It has a restaurant and outdoor swimming pool - take your bathers.
It is almost half price to play on weekdays.
Issan Rum Distillery - 🥃 +66 91 419 9285
What a fantastic 19th hole out in the middle of nowhere. Do most of your tasting when you get home if you are on the bikes.
The Issan Rum Distillery near Nong Khai is a unique and acclaimed small-batch producer that has gained a reputation both locally and internationally for its high-quality agricultural rum.
The spirit is made directly from 100% fresh sugarcane juice (not molasses), a production style often associated with the French Caribbean.
The distillery was founded in 2013 by a Frenchman, David Giallorenzo, and his Thai wife, Nooruk Worakot (Lek), who left careers in finance to pursue their passion in Thailand.
They use Red Sugarcane (อ้อยแดง), which is grown locally, often on their own or nearby plantations.
Issan Rum has received international awards, including a Silver Medal at the IWSC (International Wine and Spirit Competition) in 2014.
The distillery offers visitors a laid-back and scenic experience -
Situated by a jade-green lake, providing a beautiful and relaxing setting.
Tasting sets of the high-quality white rum are available to sample.
The facility includes an open-air bar and restaurant where guests can enjoy cocktails made with the rum and order food while relaxing by the lake.Tours of the distilling facilities are most likely available during the high season (roughly November and December) when the sugarcane is being harvested and processed.
It is recommend to call or message ahead before visiting. #☝️
฿600 - ฿880 THB per 700ml bottle (for their fresh sugarcane juice spirit).
In Europe, a 70cl bottle often sells for €42 to €50.
Tasting sets of the distillery’s high-quality white rum can be savoured lakeside at the open-air bar. It is an excellent place to hang out a night and food can be preordered. There is accommodation 700m away if you need to sleep over.
There is a large Sunday market at the Railway station every Sunday afternoon and evening. It runs roughly mid-afternoon to 22 pm rain permitting and has plenty of food.
Mut Mee have maps - 20kms
Wat Po Chai -
Is the most famous temple in the city of Nongkhai.
The history of Wat Pho Chai is deeply intertwined with the story of its highly revered central Buddha image, Luang Pho Phra Sai, and the spiritual heritage of the region formerly part of the Lan Xang Kingdom.
The Legend of Luang Pho Phra Sai (The Sacred Buddha Image)
The most important aspect of Wat Pho Chai's history is its role as the home of the sacred Luang Pho Phra Sai Buddha image, which has been adopted as the provincial symbol of Nong Khai.
Legend holds that the image was one of three similar Buddha images commissioned by the three daughters of Lan Xang King Setthathirat. The images were named after the daughters -
Phra Soem (eldest daughter)
Phra Suk (middle daughter)
Phra Sai (youngest daughter)
The three images were originally housed in Vientiane the capital. In 1778, during the reign of King Rama I, the images were taken as bounty by Siam after the sacking of Vientiane, and their transport to the Thai side of the Mekong River was ordered during the reign of King Rama III. They were all going to be transported to Bangkok.
Phra Suk was tragically lost when it fell into the Mekong River during a storm while being moved. The spot where it sank is still known as "Wern Suk."
Phra Soem was successfully brought to Nong Khai but was later taken to Bangkok during the reign of King Rama IV, where it is now enshrined at Wat Pathum Wanaram.
Every time they attempted to transport Phra Sai to the Thai Capital, some problem ensued and eventually it was decided to leave the image in Nong Khai, supposedly awaiting the reemergence of Phra Suk from the mighty Mekong.
This fantastically valuable bronze and gold Buddha Image is displayed around the town of Nong Khai in April every year for the Song Kran Festival.
The temple's Viharn (hall) housing Luang Pho Phra Sai is adorned with elaborate and colorful murals that depict the historical journey of the Buddha images from Laos to the Mekong River, as well as scenes from the life of the Buddha and more surprisingly contempary scenes.
King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX) presided over the ceremony to raise the Chor Fah (finial) of the Phra Ubosot (ordination hall) in 1979, further cementing the temple's national importance.
Today, Wat Pho Chai is the largest and most significant temple in Nong Khai, serving as a beacon of cultural, historical, and spiritual heritage for the province.
The Sculpture Park - Wat Sala Kaew Ku
Is an outdoor museum filled with over a hundred colossal and elaborate concrete sculptures.
The construction of the park began in 1978, after its creator, Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat, fled in 1974 before the communist takeover in Laos in 1975. He had already built something similar across the Mekong which is known as Buddha Park.
The park's main feature is its striking collection of monumental concrete statues, some reaching over 25 meters in height. They depict a bizarre and compelling fusion of iconography from Buddhism and Hinduism, including images of Buddha, Shiva, Vishnu, multi-armed goddesses, and mythological creatures.
The sculptures are didactic, illustrating Sulilat's unique syncretic spiritual philosophy. A notable installation is the Wheel of Life, a large, circular arrangement of sculptures that illustrates the cycle of karma, life, death, and rebirth, culminating in a figure stepping over a fence to become a Buddha.
The park features a three-story concrete pavilion. On the top floor is a shrine to the park's creator, Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat, where his mummified body is preserved under a glass dome. Disciples claim his hair still grows and must be cut once in a while!
1. The Creator - Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat
The spiritual leader, mystic, and sculptor behind both parks was Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat (1932–1996). The title "Luang Pu" (reverend monk) was applied to him by his followers, even though he was not a formally ordained Buddhist monk, but rather a spiritual leader who founded a religious cult.
Bunleua Sulilat was born in 1932 in Nong Khai province, Thailand. According to legend, his spiritual path began when he was a young man and fell into a cave, where he met a hermit named Keoku. This ascetic became his spiritual mentor, teaching him a philosophy that blended Hindu and Buddhist beliefs. Keoku taught him the secrets of the underworld, not least about snakes which were the principal inhabitants of that realm. Later, he trained as a Hindu Rishi in Vietnam. The name of the Thai park, Sala Kaew Ku, is an homage to this hermit.
Sulilat was entirely self-taught in sculpture. His style is often classified as art naïf or art brut (outsider art). The monumental statues were constructed from inexpensive reinforced concrete by hundreds of dedicated, but largely unskilled, volunteers who were followers of his unique spiritual sect.
In his later years, Sulilat supervised construction even as his health declined, sometimes being carted around the park in a wheelbarrow. He died in 1996 aged in his early seventies, following complications from a fall he sustained from one of his own giant sculptures.
2. Sister Park across the Mekong in Laos - Buddha Park (Xieng Khuan)
Sala Kaew Ku is a sister park to an earlier, similar creation just across the Mekong River in Laos. It was started in 1958 while Sulilat was living in Laos and accumulating a following. Two of the notable sculptures include a gigantic, 40-meter-long reclining Buddha and a pumpkin-like structure representing the three levels of existence - Hell, Earth, and Heaven where visitors can climb to the top. The park is now operated by the Lao government as a public park and tourist attraction.
The two parks stand as enduring monuments to Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat's singular artistic vision and his desire to blend the spiritual traditions of Buddhism and Hinduism into a comprehensible, concrete spectacle.
Nong Khai Golf Course - 9 holes -
There is a 9 hole course at the eastern edge of town.
LAO VISA
Can get 30 day Visa On Arrival at Vientiane train station
LAO PDR (Please Don’t Rush)
Less than 1% of bombs that did not detonate have been cleared.
• Fact: Between the years 1964 and 1973, the United States flew more than half a million bombing missions, delivering over two million tons of explosive ordnance. That’s equivalent to one planeload every 8 minutes, 24 hours a day, for 9 years.
• Fact: More than 270 million sub-munitions (bombies) from cluster bombs were dropped over Laos. Some 80 million of them failed to explode.
• Fact: 50,000 civilians have been killed or maimed from UXO (unexploded ordnance) incidents, at least 20,000 people since the war ended in 1973. Half of the victims are children.
• Fact: One person is killed or injured almost every day by UXO in Laos.
• The Lao equivalent of ‘cheers’ is ‘tam chok’
LAO LIGHTS
• Day / Twilight & Night Golf
• French Patisseries & Lao Coffee
• Lao BBQs (Sin Dat)
• Beer Lao & Mekong Sunsets
• Beer Lao factory Tour
• Getting cupped and getting cupped
VIENTIANE 6N - 850,000 MAP
Vientiane’s name stems from an incorrect French transliteration of “Wiang Jan” meaning “City of Sandalwood.”
The history of Vientiane is one defined by periods of royal glory, devastating conflict and foreign influence. Founded as an early settlement, the city rose to prominence in 1563 when King Setthathirath officially moved the capital of the Lan Xang Kingdom from Luang Prabang to Vientiane to secure it from Burmese invasion. To establish Vientiane’s spiritual legitimacy, the king brought the sacred Emerald Buddha image housing it in the Haw Phra Kaew temple.
This period of dominance ended tragically in 1778 when the Siamese (Thai) invaded, capturing the city and seizing the Emerald Buddha, which was then permanently relocated to Bangkok. The Emerald Buddha is still at the Grand Palace in Bangkok and this remains a bone of contention in Laos even today.
Vientiane's resurrection came in the late 19th century with the arrival of the French. In 1893, France established the Protectorate of Laos, formally displacing Siamese authority.
The 20th century ushered in the turbulence of the Cold War which saw Laos’s fragile neutrality shredded. The kingdom became the stage for the devastating Secret War (1954–1975) an officially undeclared conflict directly tied to the Vietnam War. Vientiane was the political battlefield where the rivalry between the three fighting Lao Princes (neutralist, royalist and communist) played out through unstable coalition governments, each vying for supremacy. Crucially, Vientiane also served as the covert command center for the USA's intervention.
The massive foreign presence—military, diplomatic, and intelligence—transformed Vientiane into a transient, high-stakes outpost. This influx resulted in widespread lawlessness and a thriving dark economy. The city was notorious for its rampant drug trafficking (often connected to the war economy), proliferation of illicit brothels and numerous foreign-operated bars. Due to Laos's diplomatic status, it was an open secret that spies and operatives from both sides—including the US, USSR, and PRC—could be found socializing, sometimes awkwardly, in the same nightclubs and venues.
The CIA's paramilitary division directed the conflict from the US Embassy, relying heavily on its proprietary airline, Air America, which ferried supplies, equipment, and personnel to remote outposts, including the clandestine Hmong guerrilla base at Long Tieng. Due to flight restrictions and logistical necessity, Laos became the most heavily bombed nation per capita in history. American fighter-bombers returning from missions over Vietnam routinely dropped their heavy loads of unused bombs over the eastern Lao countryside, primarily targeting the Ho Chi Minh Trail, before returning to bases in Thailand.
Vientiane is no longer the illicit pleasure palace it was when Paul Theroux described it, in his 1975 book The Great Railway Bazaar. A place in which “the brothels are cleaner than the hotels, marijuana is cheaper than pipe tobacco and opium easier to find than a cold glass of beer”.
TRANSPORT MAP
Train from Nong Khai to Vientiane. Thai Immigration at border and Lao Immigration at Vientiane train station.
GETTING AROUND MAP
The best way to get around is by using ride-sharing apps like Loca or inDrive as cheaper and more reliable alternatives than tuk tuks for getting around the city.
Motorbike Rental
Bikes are available at many guesthouses and agencies.
Always choose a reputable rental shop. While most are honest, be wary of places that insist on keeping your passport and take clear, detailed photos and videos of the motorbike before you leave to document its condition.
Buses
Thanks to the government of Japan, Vientiane has green and white air-conditioned buses that service routes throughout the city.
BUY ☕
If you want to buy some top quality coffee beans you have some excellent options in Vientiane, particularly those sourced from the Bolaven Plateau in Southern Laos, which is famous for its rich volcanic soil and ideal growing conditions.
For the best quality, look for specialty coffee shops and local roasters in Vientiane. They will offer freshly roasted, and often single-origin or award-winning, beans.
Le Trio Coffee -
Vientiane's first boutique coffee roaster, established by a Lao-French couple.
Lao Mountain Coffee -
Their beans are from the Bolaven Plateau. Look for their Peaberry single origin or the Mekong Rising blend, both of which have won awards.
Sinouk Coffee -
A long-established Lao coffee brand with a strong focus on the Bolaven Plateau.
Common Grounds Cafe & Bakery -
Known for roasting coffee in-house and sourcing beans specifically from five different regions in Laos.
Naked Espresso -
Home-grown Lao coffee, often with a focus on a modern "Australian-style" coffee profile.
What to Look For to Ensure Quality -
Origin - The best beans come from the Bolaven Plateau.
Variety - Arabica varieties (Caturra, Typica, Catimor) are considered specialty grade and offer a floral, citrusy profile with mild acidity and a medium body. Robusta is also grown and provides a stronger, more earthy, and bitter cup with more caffeine. Good roasters will offer both single-origin Arabica and quality blends.
Roast Date - Always try to buy beans with a clearly marked and recent roast date (ideally within the last 1-3 weeks). Freshness is key to quality.
Roast Profile - Specialty Lao Arabica is often best enjoyed with a light to medium roast to highlight its unique floral and citrus notes. Darker roasts are great for espresso or if you prefer a smoky, chocolatey flavor.
STAY
Mali Namphu Hotel *** 7.6 -
Great location close to restaurants, cafes, bars & attractions - just up from Fountain Circle - same street as That Dam, indoor rooftop pool, pool bar, sun terrace, outdoor furniture, lush garden, coffee shop, outdoor fireplace, Xep Bar & Restaurant, free parking, 24 hour desk, very good buffet breakfast included, tea & coffee makers, bicycle rental, 24 hour security, safety box
EAT
Laos’s traditional cuisine was shaped by the lack of refrigeration in its tropical climate. This forced reliance on preservation methods that led to its signature strong, pungent flavors.
Key techniques include fermentation, which produces staples like padaek (fermented fish paste) and som moo (sour pork sausage). The resulting acidity acts as a natural preservative. Cooking emphasizes daily purchasing and methods like grilling (ping), steaming (mok), and sun-drying (Sin Savanh). This focus on immediate, high-heat preparation and preserved ingredients ensures food safety and defines the distinct taste of Lao food.
This has resulted in Lao cuisine being vibrant and distinctive often characterized by its bold flavors, extensive use of fresh herbs, and its staple - sticky rice which is central to every meal. It is traditionally steamed and served in a small woven bamboo basket (tip khao). It is eaten by hand, rolled into a small ball, and used to scoop up main dishes and sauces. Laotians refer to themselves as luk khao niaow, or "children of sticky rice."
Meals are typically served family-style, with all dishes shared among diners.
Similar to Thailand a traditional Lao meal often consists of a variety of dishes to achieve a balance of textures and flavors, typically including -
A soup dish
A grilled dish (meat or fish)
A stew or mixed dish (like laap or koy)
A sauce or dip (jeow)
Fresh greens and vegetables (often served raw or parboiled on the side).
Signature Dishes
Laap (Minced Meat Salad) - Considered the national dish of Laos, this "meat salad" is made with minced meat (chicken, beef, pork, or fish) mixed with lime juice, chili, fresh herbs, and toasted, ground sticky rice for texture. It's eaten with sticky rice and fresh vegetables.
Nam Khao (Naem Khao or Lao Crispy Rice Salad) - my favourite is a flavorful and textural Lao appetizer or salad. It is known for its incredible combination of crunchy, savory, sour, and spicy notes.
Tam Mak Houng (Spicy Green Papaya Salad) - The Lao version is typically stronger in fermented and savory flavors and spicier than the more well-known Thai version (Som Tam).
Lao Sausage (Sai Gok / Sai Oua) - A flavorful grilled pork sausage seasoned with lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves, and chili.
Mok Pa (Steamed Fish) - Fish marinated with herbs (like dill and lemongrass) and spices, then wrapped in a banana leaf and steamed.
Khao poon - (Lao noodle soup) with - jeow sukee, a kind of peanut satay dip that is so good.
Jeow (Dipping Sauces) - A variety of chili dips are essential for a Lao meal. Jeow Bong is a sweet and savory chili paste, often made with dried chilies and water buffalo skin. Jeow Som is a savory, sour, and spicy dip made with garlic, chilies, palm sugar, lime, and fish sauce.
The food in Vientiane is a vibrant and flavorful reflection of Lao cuisine, often considered the most sophisticated in the country, with distinct influence from its French colonial history.
Khao Jee Pâté - This is the Lao version of the baguette sandwich. The light, crispy French baguette is a popular street food, often sliced lengthwise and stuffed with ingredients like pâté (pork liver spread), cured meats, vegetables, and a chili-garlic sauce (jeow).
Coffee and Pastries - You can also easily find very good quality local coffee (Lao Robusta), along with French-style breakfasts featuring baguettes and croissants in many cafes.
A tip for Aussies and Vegemite lovers - get yourself a tube of Vegemite at the airport before you leave and you will be able to create cheap and delicious breakfasts with your tube, a fresh baguette and some Lao coffee.
Sin Dat (Lao BBQ) - cook at your table -
Is a popular, communal, and interactive meal in Laotian cuisine. It is often described as a hybrid of Korean BBQ and a hot pot or shabu-shabu.
The key to Sin Dat is the unique cooking device, which is typically a domed metal griddle with a channel or "moat" around the edge.
This special griddle is placed over a charcoal brazier or a table-top burner.
A light, clear broth or stock is poured into the moat. Thinly sliced marinated meats (pork, beef, chicken) are grilled on the dome, which is often first greased with a piece of pork fat.
As the meat cooks on the dome, the juices and fat drip down and mix with the broth in the moat, creating a rich, flavorful soup base.
Vegetables (like cabbage, bean sprouts, scallions, and mushrooms) and glass noodles are cooked in the simmering broth.
Dipping Sauces (Jaew) - The sauces are a crucial component, providing a balance of sweet, spicy, and savory flavors. A common sauce is a Suki-style peanut sauce (delicious), often customized at the table with fresh chopped garlic, chili, and lime juice. Spicy fish sauce-based dips are also popular.
By the end of the meal, the broth in the moat has become a wonderful savory soup, which is often enjoyed as the final course.
Vientiane, Laos offers a variety of fantastic dining options along the Mekong River, perfect for enjoying a meal with a view, especially at sunset.
Mekong River Park Restaurant -
This beautiful restaurant is located to the west of town. It has outside tables on the river bank. It is known for its delicious food and great views of the Mekong, particularly at sunset.
Mekong Riverfront Night Market & Street Food -
The area along the Mekong Riverfront promenade, near Chao Anouvong Park, transforms every evening into a lively night market. This is a budget-friendly option where you can enjoy local street food and snacks while soaking in the vibrant atmosphere and sunset views.
Paris-trained chef Boris Luangkhot makes top class macarons, croissants and homemade ice creams in flavours such as durian and passion fruit.
Spring Rolls
In a town where spring rolls and Vietnamese restaurants are everywhere, you are bound to come across some pretty good ones. Here's a couple to try.
They are known for their refreshing Fresh Spring Rolls with Shrimp (Gỏi cuốn) and Fried Spring Rolls as a side or as part of their famous noodle bowls like the Bo Bun (vermicelli noodles with beef and a fried spring roll).
It’s a great, casual spot for a hearty breakfast or lunch. Their other must-try items include Banh Mi (their famous Vietnamese sandwiches) and Pho (Beef noodle soup).
Open daily from 6 am to 3 pm. (Closed Saturday)
Rue Setthathilath
The spring rolls at Khop Chai Deu are a highly praised and signature appetizer at this iconic Vientiane restaurant. The best ever!
Khop Chai Deu, which means "thank you" in Lao, is a renowned establishment in Vientiane known as "The Place Where The World Meets." Set in a charming, renovated old French colonial villa, the restaurant offers a vibrant atmosphere with both a spacious air-conditioned interior and plenty of outdoor seating on a patio and terrace. It's a lively, social spot that features live music and happy hour every day.
Chokdee Café Belgian Beer Bar -
Is a popular spot in Vientiane, Laos, known for bringing a taste of Belgium to the banks of the Mekong River.
Situated along the scenic Mekong Riverside and offers a relaxed, yet lively atmosphere. There is both indoor seating and an outdoor terrace where you can enjoy beautiful views of the river, especially at sunset.
Belgian Specialties -
Carbonnade Flamande - Beef stew cooked in Belgian abbey monk beer, served with fries or mashed potato.
Moules-Frites (New Zealand Mussels and Fries) - Available throughout the week when in season.
Stoemp and Pork Sausage - Belgian pork sausage served with mash potato and brown gravy sauce.
Steak Tartare - Raw beef with onion, capers, mustard, mayo, and egg tabasco sauce, served with fries.
Bouchee A La Reine - Chicken in béchamel sauce with mushrooms, served with puff pastry and a side of fries or mash potato.
Liege Meatball - Meatballs in a syrup gravy sauce and beer, served with fries or mash potato.
As a Belgian Beer Bar, it boasts an impressive selection of over 40 Belgian beers, as well as various local and imported brews.
The cafe occasionally hosts live music (such as a live jazz band on a Thursday night).
Open seven days a week from 10 am to 11,30 pm.
Affectionately known as "Sticky's," this long-standing establishment in Vientiane is famous for its casual atmosphere, international comfort food, and vibrant community focus.
Sticky Fingers first opened its doors in July 2001 as a small "hole in the wall" café/pub. It quickly grew into a Vientiane institution. Due to its popularity, the restaurant expanded in 2004 to include a larger dining area, a second floor, a second bar, and a small outdoor area.
Sticky Fingers offers an all-day brunch menu on weekends (Saturday and Sunday, when they open at 10 am).
Highlights include the Tuk-Tuk Special (traditional Lao rice soup, a savory omelet, and a fruit shake) and Eggs Benedict (available with peppered ham or smoked salmon). With a Bloody Mary or a Tom Yum Martini.The restaurant hosts Live Music and Open Mic nights and a Happy Hour every Wednesday and Friday from 6 pm to 8 pm during which all cocktails and mixed drinks are half price.
Monday - Friday: 5 pm - 10 pm (Dinner)
Saturday - Sunday: 10 am - 10 pm (Brunch/All-day dining)
The Sinouk Coffee Pavilion and Garden -
Offers immersive coffee experiences, including cupping sessions, as part of its Coffee Tour Vientiane. The pavilion, located about 15 minutes outside downtown Vientiane on the road to Buddha Park, serves as a Coffee Learning House and the headquarters for Sinouk Coffee.
The Cupping Session Experience ☕
The coffee cupping session is typically the highlight of the popular "Full Coffee Tour with Cupping." This tour is designed to immerse visitors fully into Lao coffee culture.
The cupping session is an interactive tasting designed to stimulate your senses and train your palate to appreciate new flavors. You will discover how to identify various coffee flavors and aromas like a master.
The full experience at the Pavilion is comprehensive and includes several educational components:
You will learn about the main coffee varieties grown in Laos (primarily on the Bolaven Plateau in Southern Laos), how to grow organic premium beans, and the importance of collaboration with local farmers.
You can watch a demonstration of the process of roasting green beans with the in-house roaster master.
Logistics and Booking
Location: KM9 Thadeua Road, Vientiane Capital.
Regular Cupping Sessions are often held on Saturdays and require prior registration.
To book a private session, it is generally recommended to do so at least one day in advance.
The Pavilion also features a café serving a large choice of Lao and international homemade food and a quiet garden space.
*The State of Pasta - Unique fusion
Incorporates Southeast Asian flavors alongside Italian pastas. With a cocktail bar upstairs.
A major highlight is that all their pasta is handmade. Diners can typically choose their favorite type of fresh pasta and pair it with a homemade sauce.
Some unique offerings have included a Lao Sausage Pasta and the highly recommended Halle'Nduja (a spicy, creamy sauce).
They also offer authentic Italian dishes like a traditional Carbonara made with egg.
Makphet Restaurant - The Social Enterprise
Highly regarded not just for its food but for its profound mission to empower marginalized youth in Laos.
The restaurant has a strong reputation for delicious and authentic homemade Lao cuisine, with dishes like fish larb and fish with coconut and lime sauce receiving high praise. It was even recognized by the Miele Guide as one of Asia's best restaurants in 2009 - 2010.
It provides a pleasant dining environment in a lovely garden setting and the profits generated are reinvested into the social programs.
It provides its staff with -
Hospitality Skills - Cooking, food service, restaurant management, and hygiene.
Academic Skills - Lao literacy, English language, and numeracy.
Life Skills - Education and training for general life competence.
The training extends beyond culinary and service skills to provide a complete support system, which is crucial for young people facing social challenges.
*Naked Espresso Botanica - Several Branches
One of the best-loved coffee shops in Vientiane. The Vientiane-based chain was founded by Ariya 'Pop' Khamvongsa.
Pop moved to Sydney, Australia, as an 18-year-old student in 2001. Initially, he disliked coffee, but after trying a latte and later working his way up from dishwasher to fully trained barista in Sydney cafes, he developed a passion for Australian coffee culture.
After visiting Vientiane in 2010, he noticed the lack of a distinct coffee culture comparable to what he experienced in Australia. His goal was to bring the Australian-style coffee culture—featuring strong, authentic espresso and a cafe environment for working and socializing—back to his home country of Laos.
The first Naked Espresso branch opened in 2012 in Vientiane. It featured an "urban-Australian" style with industrial décor, art, and a focus on high-quality coffee.
Initially, the clientele was primarily foreigners looking for a Western-style coffee fix. However, over time, more and more Lao people embraced the cafe culture.
By 2017, the chain had grown to at least four-and-a-half branches in Vientiane, with plans to expand to Luang Prabang and to operate a roasting house. Some of the branches were franchised.
In September 2016, the Australian Prime Minister, Malcolm Turnbull, visited a Naked Espresso branch in Vientiane for a special reception, highlighting the connection between the cafe's Australian inspiration and the country's diplomatic relations with Laos.
DO - MAP
*Herbal Sauna - Cupping
Off Th Chao Anou, Vientiane 0100, Laos +856 20 55 044 655
Next to Nazim restaurant (on the RHS facing Nazim) you'll see an arrow-shaped sign that reads "Herbal Sauna Traditional Massage." Walk down the alley until it curves and you'll see another herbal sauna sign in front of the shop.
You can get herbal saunas, massage and Chinese and Lao style cupping.
Golf - MAP - Weekdays are best
If you want to try an agent in Vientiane there is Discover Laos Today - it may be cheaper to deal with the golf courses directly but this company can organise everything for you.
Email: sales@discoverlaos.today
Phone: +856 20 7899 8000
Address.: 18 street, Rue Phonthan, Vientiane 01160
*Long Vien Gold Club - MAP - Under Lights
Play a twilight round - Could do Beer Lao Factory tour on the way here
(Also named Long Thanh on website). Is floodlight for night golf so it would be good to play a twilight game here. It is one of the best and most expensive courses. It will probably cost AUD$200 for the round.
It has 27 holes and is located in a *special duty free zone - the nearest shop is at the bridge.
It features three 9-hole loops (Long Thanh, Lao-Viet, and Vientiane) on a flat landscape, with challenges from water hazards, dunes, and strategic bunkers.
The course is known for its excellent, year-round condition with all-Paspalum grass. The club offers a modern clubhouse with an international restaurant, pro shop, driving range, and compulsory caddy service.
Lakeview Vientiane Golf Club -
Also expensive - about AUD$170. It was ingeniously transformed from a flat landscape into an exciting and challenging layout.
*Dansavanh Golf & Country Club - MAP - aka City of Stars Golf Club
Get an early start to give yourself time at the floating restaursants on the way back.
Possibly expensive but might be a nice day out around 60 km from Vientiane. One website puts green fees at AUD$65. Give them a call or check out prices at a local travel agency. Take your bathers, you may want to cool off in the lake or at the resort.
The club is part of the larger Dansavanh Nam Ngum Resort, providing a full range of facilities including a clubhouse, driving range, and accommodations. Guests also have access to the main resort's spa, restaurants, swimming pool, and a 24-hour casino.
Take Hwy 13 NE past Patuxai - Straight ahead at roundabout to Hwy 10 north - turn Right at signs to Resort.
Dansavanh Golf & Country Club - set in a stunning natural environment it was the original international quality golf resort in Laos. It certainly owns a one of a kind location with views of Nam Ngum Lake—“the Lake Geneva of Asia”. Water comes into play on no fewer than 13 of the holes at this fine resort.
This course has many interesting doglegs. Eight of the 18 holes, almost every other hole, is a dogleg. Five of them dogleg right while three angle around to the left. This makes placement off the tee a real priority. Take lots of balls as the jungle likes to eat them.
It is truly a championship track in a gorgeous setting, one that you’ll likely want to play more than once. Reports on it's management and maintenance are mixed over the years.
Stop for drinks or a meal on the way back at
Tha Ngon Floating Restaurant -
This is a unique, quintessential Laotian experience popular with locals. You can hire a personal, fully-staffed houseboat to enjoy a traditional meal and relax on the Mekong River. It's recommended to hire a restaurant (boat) by noon as they are quickly reserved.
*Sea Games Golf Club - 27 Holes – A Course, B Course, C Course - US$70
Follow Hwy 13 past Patuxai north, Right on 13 at 10, follow signs To SEA & Golf - MAP - 10 kms from the city centre
Twenty-seven holes of formidable golf await you at the course designed for official competition during the 2009 25th Southeast Asian Games in Vientiane. It is a flat course with large lakes that don't come into play that often.
Beer Lao Brewery Tour - Coming Soon
Buddha Park - see Nong Khai above ⬆️
Is one of the most historically and culturally significant sites in Vientiane. The temple was constructed in 1565 by King Setthathirath after he moved the capital of the Lan Xang Kingdom from Luang Prabang to Vientiane. Its primary and most important purpose was to house the highly sacred Emerald Buddha image. It served as the royal family's personal chapel.
The temple was destroyed during the Siamese (Thai) invasion of Vientiane in 1779, and the Emerald Buddha was seized and taken to Thonburi (and later Bangkok), where it remains today.
The temple was destroyed again in the 19th century. The current structure was rebuilt by the French colonial authorities between 1936 and 1942 to its former glory.
Today, Haw Phra Kaew does not host Buddhist ceremonies but serves as a museum of religious art. It houses a spectacular collection of Lao Buddhist artifacts.
What to See at the Museum
Inside the main hall, you will see an elaborate, gilded altar and throne—the spot where the Emerald Buddha once rested.
The museum displays an array of Lao treasures, including various Buddha statues (some dating back to the 6th century), inscribed Khmer stone tablets, wooden carvings, and ancient Buddhist manuscripts written on palm leaves.
The Emerald Buddha is central to the history of Haw Phra Kaew, even though it is no longer there.
The Emerald Buddha is a statue of the meditating Gautama Buddha, seated in the virasana or lotus position.
It is not actually made of emerald, but carved from a single block of green jade or jasper stone, clothed in gold.
It is considered the Palladium of the Kingdom of Thailand—the country's most revered and sacred religious icon -- and it’s still a sore spot for Laos, who want it returned.
King Setthathirath brought the statue to Luang Prabang, and later to Vientiane, when he moved the capital in the 16th century. Along with the Pra Bang (Luang Prabang’s namesake Buddha statue), the two images were believed to be inhabited by spirits and very powerful. It was housed at Haw Phra Kaew for over 200 years.
8 am - 12 noon and 1 pm - 4 pm every day
Respectful attire is strictly required as it is a highly sacred site. Shoulders and knees must be covered.
Photography is strictly prohibited inside the main museum hall.
Haw Phra Kaew is frequently visited in combination with the nearby Wat Si Saket, which is known for its cloister wall housing thousands of tiny Buddha images.
Wat Si Saket, also known as Wat Sisaket, holds a unique and crucial place in the history of Vientiane and Laos. It is recognized as the oldest surviving temple in the city that retains its original structure.
The temple was an important spiritual and political center. Historically, it was the location where the Lao lords and nobles came to swear allegiance to the King.
Survival of the 1828 War
Wat Si Saket's unique significance stems from its survival during the Siamese-Lao War of 1828 when the Siamese army sacked and burned Vientiane destroying nearly all other temples and structures in the city.
A Repository of Buddha Images
The temple's most famous feature is its incredible collection of over 6,800 to 10,000 Buddha images housed in the niches along the inner walls of the cloister and on shelves.
The temple underwent significant restoration by the French colonial government in 1924 and again in the 1930s.
COPE Visitor Centre - Free
Is one of the most essential and moving places to visit in Laos, providing a powerful, sobering, and inspiring look at a devastating chapter of the country's history and its ongoing humanitarian efforts.
COPE stands for Cooperative Orthotic & Prosthetic Enterprise. It is a local non-profit organization established to provide prosthetic, orthotic, and rehabilitation services to Lao people with mobility-related disabilities, particularly victims of Unexploded Ordnance (UXO).
From 1964 to 1973, during the Vietnam War, the United States conducted a massive, secret air campaign over Laos, aiming to disrupt North Vietnamese supply lines along the Ho Chi Minh Trail.
Over this nine-year period, the US dropped more than 2 million tons of ordnance on Laos, making it, per capita, the most heavily bombed country in world history. This equates to a planeload of bombs being dropped every eight minutes, 24 hours a day, for nine years.
Approximately 270 million cluster sub-munitions (referred to as "bombies") were dropped. An estimated 30% failed to detonate on impact due in part to soft soil and malfunctions.
Today, tens of millions of these live "bombies" remain buried or scattered across the country, contaminating a vast amount of arable land. Since the war officially ended, over 20,000 people have been killed or injured by these devices. Victims are often farmers or children, who mistake the small, baseball-sized explosives for toys.
The COPE Visitor Centre acts as a museum and educational space, telling this tragic story and showcasing the resilience of the Lao people.
The center features detailed displays explaining the history of the Secret War, the types of ordnance dropped, and the devastating impact of UXO on daily life.
You will see powerful photographs, read testimonials, and hear the inspiring stories of UXO survivors who have been helped by COPE to regain their mobility and dignity.
The exhibition features the artificial limbs, wheelchairs, and orthotic devices that COPE fabricates and provides. A particularly moving display shows prosthetic legs hanging from the ceiling.
This small screening room shows a rotation of informative and moving documentaries about the history of UXO and the ongoing humanitarian work of clearance teams. The room is built to resemble the underground bunkers used by the Pathet Lao during the war.
You may see various objects recovered from bomb sites, including the casings of cluster bombs and, ironically, handicrafts and household items made by local artisans from salvaged scrap metal.
Donations are highly encouraged and are vital to funding COPE's mission to provide rehabilitation and prosthetic services. You can also support their work by purchasing items from the on-site gift shop or café.
Putuxai - “Victory Gate.” - The Vertical Runway
Is one of the most prominent and historically significant landmarks in Vientiane. Its story is intertwined with both French colonial influence and the complex politics of the Vietnam War era.
It was built to commemorate the Laotian soldiers who died fighting in World War II and in the war for independence from France (1946–1954).
Its design is distinctly inspired by the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, which reflects the French colonial influence on the city's architecture.
Visitors can climb the internal staircases to the upper floors and the observation deck at the very top. This level offers panoramic views of Vientiane. The lower floors house a small museum and souvenir shops.
Patuxai is famous for a unique and slightly humorous historical footnote that earned it a distinct local nickname -"The Vertical Runway".
During the late 1950s and early 1960s, a period of significant geopolitical tension leading into the Secret War, the United States government provided a substantial grant of funds and a large quantity of concrete to the then-Royal Lao Government.
This material was explicitly intended to be used for the expansion and modernization of the runway at Vientiane's Wattay International Airport. The goal was to accommodate larger aircraft, particularly US military jets, as part of the American effort to combat North Vietnamese forces in the region.
However, according to the popular story, the funds and concrete arrived before a formal, binding contract for the runway expansion was finalized. The monument was built as a celebration of independence from France, and is designed as a locally-infused Arch de Triumphe complete with Laotian and Buddhist symbolism and art.
It stands as a subtle but powerful symbol of Lao sovereignty and a slightly cheeky poke at a foreign power's influence during a turbulent time.
It has become a popular spot with a pleasant atmosphere for strolling around at sunset.
MAG Visitor Information Centre -
Is a vital and sobering educational space dedicated to informing the public about the ongoing crisis of Unexploded Ordnance (UXO) in Laos.
MAG, which stands for Mines Advisory Group, is a global humanitarian organization that works to clear landmines, cluster munitions, and unexploded bombs in conflict-affected areas. Their visitor center in Vientiane serves as a crucial point of connection between the tragedy of Laos' past and the ongoing work toward a safer future.
The entire focus of the MAG Visitor Centre is the devastating legacy of the "Secret War" in Laos (1964–1973).
Laos holds the tragic distinction of being the most heavily bombed country in the world, per capita. The United States dropped over two million tons of explosive ordnance, including an estimated 270 million cluster submunitions.
An estimated 30% of these submunitions failed to detonate on impact, meaning millions of live bombs still contaminate the ground. These UXO continue to kill and injure people, particularly farmers and children, decades after the war ended, and are a major impediment to economic development.
The centre highlights MAG's work, which has been operational in Laos since 1994, to find, remove, and destroy these deadly devices and to teach risk education to communities.
The centre is highly praised for being powerful, moving, and informative. The exhibits include -
Displays of real, defused UXO and bomb fragments, including cluster munitions, rockets, and other ordnance, providing a stark visual of the danger.
Compelling stories and photographs detailing the impact of UXO accidents on individuals and families, and showcasing the resilience of survivors.
Screenings of short films and documentaries about the history of the Secret War, the humanitarian problem, and the dangerous, yet vital, work of MAG clearance teams on the ground.
Information on the demining process, including the tools and techniques used by clearance teams (including all-female teams) to safely locate and destroy the bombs and return the land to communities for farming and development.
Entry is free, but donations are strongly encouraged as 100% of the funds go directly to supporting MAG's clearance work in the field. They often sell merchandise (t-shirts, postcards, etc.) for the same purpose.
Just a 10-minute walk from Patuxay.
Tuesday-Saturday 12 pm - 6pm
LAO PEOPLE'S ARMY MUSEUM -
Is Vientiane's main institution dedicated to the nation's revolutionary and military past.
The museum's primary focus is on the history and achievements of the Lao People's Army (LPA), which was officially established in 1949.
(1893–1954) The resistance against French colonialism.
(1955–1975) This is the core of the museum, detailing the Laotian Civil War, which was simultaneous with the Vietnam War, and the struggle to establish the Lao People's Democratic Republic
Post-1975 National Defense and Construction - The role of the LPA in national stability, development, and social welfare after the communist victory.
The museum is split into indoor exhibition halls and extensive outdoor displays of military hardware.
Displays include authentic, combat-worn vehicles and aircraft like MiG fighter jets
Soviet transport helicopters
Tanks (Soviet and Chinese models)
Artillery pieces and field cannons
Remnants of captured or shot-down U.S. military aircraft (e.g., F-4 Phantom, F-105 Thunderchief, Bell UH-1 helicopter)
A towering monument made of deactivated U.S. bombs, symbolizing the indiscriminate bombing campaign during the Secret War
Indoor Exhibits - a short documentary can be viewed about important key historical events of Laos.
Weapons and Uniforms
Personal stories, photographs, and detailed accounts of battles and the impact of the war on the Laotian people
Dioramas - Special presentation rooms featuring scale models and theatrical displays simulating major campaigns, such as the defense of the Plain of Jars
Exhibits honoring key revolutionary figures, including President Kaysone Phomvihane
Tuesday to Sunday 8 am - 11.30 am and 1 pm - 4 pm
Tha Pha That Luang - Great Sacred Stupa
Is a national symbol (its image is on Laos’ official seal) and also the most sacred monument in the country.
The history of Pha That Luang is one of profound age, repeated destruction, and eventual restoration as a national emblem.
According to local legend, the original stupa was founded by Buddhist missionaries sent by the great Indian Emperor Ashoka in the 3rd century BC.
They are said to have enshrined a sacred relic of the Buddha—believed to be his breastbone—on the site, establishing its holiness from antiquity.
The most significant construction was ordered in 1566 by King Setthathirat after he moved the capital of the Lan Xang Kingdom from Luang Prabang to Vientiane.
The King built the monumental stupa to elevate Vientiane's status as a royal and religious capital and to demonstrate his patronage of Buddhism. It was built around the original, smaller stupa.
Over the centuries, the stupa was repeatedly damaged, most severely by the Siamese (Thai) invasion of 1828, which left it heavily damaged and abandoned. Most of the gold was looted.
Restoration efforts began in the early 1900s. The current stupa was finally reconstructed and completed by the French in the 1930s, using detailed drawings made by French explorer Louis Delaporte in 1867 to approximate its original 16th-century design.
It suffered damage during the Franco-Thai War in the 1940s but was meticulously restored after World War II.
The complex also features two nearby temples (Wat That Luang Neua and Wat That Luang Tai) and a large statue of its founder, King Setthathirat, out front.
The significance of Pha That Luang goes far beyond its religious function. It is the single most important symbol of the Lao nation.
The stupa represents the country's Buddhist faith, its architectural heritage, and its hard-fought national sovereignty.
An image of Pha That Luang is featured prominently on the National Seal of Laos (the coat of arms) and on much of the country's currency (the Lao Kip).
It remains the most important place of pilgrimage for Lao Buddhists, who believe the Buddha's breastbone relic is enshrined within.
The stupa is the center of the country's largest and most significant festival, the Boun That Luang (That Luang Festival). Held over three days during the full moon of the 12th lunar month (typically October or November), the event draws tens of thousands of pilgrims for parades, Buddhist ceremonies, offerings of alms to monks, and a candlelight procession around the stupa.
SUNDOWNERS MAP
Just head west down Quai Fa Ngum and you will come across all sorts of places to enjoy a sundowner by the Mekong.
As the sun begins to set, the area comes to life. While the old "ramshackle" bars directly over the river are largely gone due to development, the promenade is often lined with vendors and casual eateries that set up plastic tables and chairs. You can easily buy a cheap, cold BeerLao and some local street food (like Lao BBQ or Larb) and enjoy it right there with the crowds.
The Vientiane Night Market sets up right on the riverside promenade around sunset and while it's primarily for shopping, the whole surrounding area is alive with people, food, and drink, making it a great atmosphere to grab a beer nearby.
The experience of sitting by the Mekong at sunset, enjoying the cool breeze and a cold BeerLao, is one of the most popular evening activities for both locals and tourists in Vientiane.
Live music, sunset views, food & drinks
Tipsy Elephant Vientiane Rooftop Lounge -
While not directly on the riverbank theTipsy Elephant on the 9th floor of the SureStay Hotel offers elevated views that can capture the sunset over the Mekong River and the city.
Happy Hour 5pm – 7pm
PATUXAI PARK - Go early to get a seat
Having a beer lao watching the sun set near Patuxai.
The park becomes a very pleasant and lively place as the sun goes down and the temperature cools. It's a favorite spot for locals and visitors to stroll, jog, and socialize.
As evening descends, the Patuxai Monument is illuminated, creating a beautiful and dramatic backdrop against the twilight sky.
The surrounding park and gardens, which feature palm trees and lotus ponds, are great for taking photos of the monument silhouetted or glowing against the sunset colors.
There is a musical fountain (a gift from China) in the gardens that often comes alive in the late afternoon or evening, and the water can catch the reflections of the illuminated monument and the sky.For a panoramic view of Vientiane, you can climb to the top of the Patuxai Monument.
It's a memorable experience, combining the iconic architecture of the Patuxai with the vibrant evening life of Vientiane. A cold beer is easily available from street stalls and small shops on the main avenues leading away from the monument.
DRINK
Is one of the most famous and longest-running nightlife spots in Vientiane known for its atmosphere and live Country music.
Often featuring acoustic sets from 9 pm - 10 pm followed by a full live band that plays until closing (around 2 AM).
The crowd is typically a good mix of both expats and locals.
A well-known, long-standing institution in the Vientiane nightlife scene, particularly popular for those looking for a laid-back, late-night atmosphere that attracts a diverse crowd. It has been around since the 90's.
Dive chic - it's not a trendy, upscale club, but a more casual and friendly pub.
It is one of the few places in central Vientiane that stays open very late (often until 3 am or later) making it a go-to for night owls after other bars have closed.
The pub attracts a good mix of people from locals, expats, long-term travellers, and tourists.
It has both a cozy indoor space and a large outdoor seating area.
The music is generally loud, with a focus on classical rock, older music, or pop that appeals to a diverse audience.
The prices are generally reasonable.
Samlo is particularly famous for its pool tables, which are a main draw for patrons throughout the night.
They often have TVs showing sports, such as Premier League (EPL) or rugby matches.
The pub occasionally features live music and themed events, adding to its energetic atmosphere.
It is open nightly from 8 am - 3 am or sometimes later, depending on the crowd and the night.
Don Chan Palace Hotel nightclub -
Called Lunar 36 and located on the 3rd floor it often attracts a diverse crowd of locals, expats, and hotel guests.
It is notable for being one of the few places in Vientiane that stays open very late like 4 am on weekends making it a popular destination for those looking to continue their night out.
Hotel guests enter for free, while there is an entry fee for outside patrons.
It is a go-to spot for dancing and a lively party atmosphere.
THAILAND
UDON THANI 3N - 'Northern City' – 597,000 MAP
STAY -
Charoen Hotel *** 7.8 -
Great location 10 mins walk from the Centara and night markets, outdoor pool, free airport shuttle, fitness centre, tour desk, 24 hour desk, restaurants, pool bar, Flamingo Lounge, Yellow Bird Pub & Bar, free parking, breakfast included
Centara Hotel **** 8.6 -
Excellent location in the centre of town, linked to the main shopping mall, rainforest shower, cable TV, fitness centre, outdoor pool, hot tub, sauna, steam room, spa and wellness centre, beauty salon, 2 x restaurants, bar, very good breakfast included, free parking, snack bar, concierge service, 24 hour desk, safety box
Motorbike Rental -
There are other ones apart from these. Keep an eye out for signs when you are walking around. You will need it for 20 days plus an extra day or two to have it here in Udon for golf etc.
Jenny's Apartments Motorbike & Car Rentals Udon Thani
HISTORY
Udon Thani During the Vietnam War (Circa 1964–1976)
Udon Thani’s history during the Vietnam War is almost entirely defined by its role as a critical staging and air combat center for the United States. The city transformed from a quiet provincial town into a bustling military and economic hub almost overnight.
The centerpiece of this transformation was the Udorn Royal Thai Air Force Base (RTAFB), a major joint U.S./Thai facility. Strategically located near Laos and North Vietnam, it was essential for the American war effort in Indochina.
Udorn was a front-line base for the U.S. Air Force (USAF), launching numerous strike, fighter escort, and crucial tactical reconnaissance missions over North Vietnam and Laos. The base’s F-4 Phantom II squadrons achieved dozens of confirmed aerial victories during the conflict.
Udorn also hosted the Asian headquarters for Air America, the passenger and cargo airline secretly owned and operated by the CIA. The base was the nerve center for the "Secret War" in Laos, providing essential support and resources for covert anti-communist operations. Additionally, the heavily guarded Ramasun Station, a U.S. Army and NSA radio listening post near the city, conducted electronic surveillance on regional Cold War adversaries.
The massive influx of U.S. military spending created a dramatic economic boom, fundamentally altering the city -
Udon Thani grew considerably, with locals receiving comparatively high wages working on the base or in the rapidly expanding service sector. Downtown Udon Thani became a 24-hour city, with an explosion of new businesses like hotels, bars, and restaurants to cater to the thousands of American servicemen.
This period of intense foreign contact left a permanent mark. Many locals gained English language skills, and the infrastructure developed by the Americans contributed to the city's long-term growth. After the U.S. forces withdrew in 1976, the city experienced an economic slump, but the capital generated during the war laid the foundation for many of Udon Thani’s wealthiest families and most established businesses today.
EAT
VT Namnueng – 2 locations
One near the park and a big new one on road into town from the south.
It is a highly-regarded Vietnamese restaurant celebrated for its authentic and fresh cuisine. The restaurant's name, "VT," is derived from the first names of its founders, Vee and Tuan. Their signature dish is namnueng, a flavorful grilled pork paste served with fresh herbs, rice paper, and a special dipping sauce. They have a souvenir shop in the new one. Take your bike out there for a test ride.
Is a legendary and beloved breakfast spot in Udon Thani, famous for its hearty Vietnamese-style cuisine. Located in a bustling part of the city, it’s a local institution known for its delicious food, quick service, and affordable prices. The must-try dishes include the pan-fried eggs with various toppings and the flavorful Vietnamese noodle soup.
A standout is the Irish Clock, serving delicious English breakfasts along with hearty fish and chips & meat pies.
Udon Thani Night Markets -
Udon Thani comes alive at night with a series of bustling night markets that are a central part of the city's social and culinary scene. A major hub is the area around the Udon Thani Railway Station, which hosts several markets including the popular UD Shopping Mall, Centrepoint Market, and Preecha Market. These markets are known for their vibrant atmosphere, offering a mix of shopping and dining.
The markets are a paradise for foodies, with countless stalls selling a wide array of authentic Thai and Northeastern Thai (Isaan) dishes.
They are social gathering spots where people of all ages come to eat, people-watch, and enjoy the lively ambiance. On weekends, some markets feature live music, adding to the festive mood.
Do
Royal Creek Golf Club and Resort - (best golf course in Udon Thani)
Is an 18-hole championship course 15 minutes from downtown.
Formerly a rice paddy, the site is scattered with man-made lakes, reservoirs, and creeks that frame many of the holes. Extra balls are a must at Royal Creek.
Caddies and golf carts are compulsory, though even with their costs included the fees are reasonable.
There are meetings every Saturday from 12 midday to 5 pm.
Entry to the Udon Thani racecourse is free, as is the onsite parking.
Address - Soi Rungrueang, Udon Thani, 41000
SUN
Plenty of eateries and drinkery's + VT Restaurant. Instagrammable Udon Sign behind ducks
A lot of action takes place along Th Thesa on the sunset-watching side of the lake where there are many restaurants, paint-your-own-pottery shops, and streetside masseurs. There's a bike-hire shop on the northeast shore.
Opening hours: 4 am to 8 pm Entry free
DRINK
Elite -
10pm to 4am. A Thai style nightclub with a live band playing Thai music. Mainly frequented by locals. Close to the Charoen Hotel
Tawan Daeng - (Red Sun)
A Thai style club with a live band.
Mak Khaeng 9 pm - 2 am. Close to the Centara Hotel.
MOTOR BIKE TRIP 🏍️
SANGKHOM - 3N – MAP - Early Start - 3,355
Day 1 – ENROUTE - Wat Pho Chai Sri (Hell), Phu Phra Bat Historical Park, Sky Walk, Falls – if short on time can do sky walk tomorrow
Day 2 - Blue Temple
Day 3 – Explore town, eat at Bouy, relax by river
ENROUTE –
Is a unique Buddhist temple located near Ban Phue in Udon Thani province. It's renowned for its vibrant and sometimes bizarre statuary, which depicts scenes from Isaan fables and the punishments of Buddhist hell. The temple's most revered artifact is a 1,200-year-old Buddha image named Luang Po Naak believed by locals to be responsible for many miracles.
Also known as Wat Ban Waeng, the temple is about 5km out of Ban Phue.
Is a temple located within the Phu Phra Bat Historical Park. It is a site of great spiritual and historical significance, believed to have been a sacred place even before the arrival of Buddhism. The temple is most famous for its giant Buddha footprint, measuring 1.5 meters long, which is housed in a chedi and is a major pilgrimage destination. The area is also distinguished by its unique, mushroom-shaped rock formations, some of which feature prehistoric rock paintings, and a number of shrines built by different cultures over thousands of years.
Phu Phra Bat Historical Park - The Tale of Nang Usa -
The park is characterized by bizarre, mushroom-shaped rock formations and towering boulders, which were sculpted by ancient glacial and underwater erosion. These natural shelters and pillars were used by prehistoric peoples over 6,000 years ago, as evidenced by red rock paintings of humans and animals.
Later, from the 7th to 11th centuries, the Dvaravati culture adapted the landscape into a sacred Buddhist center. They erected Sema stones—boundary markers for monastic spaces—and carved shrines and Buddha images into the rocks. The park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognized for its exceptional testimony to the Sema stone tradition. It's not just an archaeological site, but a place where nature, ancient art, and Buddhist heritage intertwine.
The dramatic rock formations of Phu Phra Bat are the backdrop for a famous local legend, "The Tale of Nang Usa." This folklore explains the names of many of the park's most prominent features.
The most haunting set of stones is found at Kou Nang Usa, also known as “Thai Stonehenge.” Ranging in height from one to three metres, seven markers have stood through the centuries in a circle surrounding a jagged rock formation rising from a broad stone floor.
An easy-to-follow trail runs in a roughly two-kilometre loop past all of the park’s main attractions. Visitors who aren’t up for the fairly strenuous hike up to the viewpoint can access most of the highlights via a lower trail. Each site is marked by comprehensible English descriptions, and quality English maps are provided at the info centre.
It is a great ride on the motorbike along the Mekong river past temples, rice fields, banana trees and waterfalls. The riverside town of Sri Chiang Mai is known as the spring roll wrapper capital of Thailand and possibly the world. The town’s riverside walkway affords views straight across to the Lao capital's much more developed riverfront.
Follow the road along the river rather than highway 211 for great views of the Mekong River and no traffic. The further you go west, the hillier the road gets offering some fantastic view points on the way.
Back on the 211 which is mostly a smooth two-lane highway that rolls over hills and along the river, all the way into the mountainous Loei province.
The Skywalk Wat Pha Tak Suea -
Is a glass-floored, U-shaped viewing platform built atop a cliff. It extends out from the edge, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the vast Mekong River and the neighboring landscape of Laos. Situated within the grounds of the Buddhist temple Wat Pha Tak Suea, this approximately 15-meter long structure provides a thrilling experience and a stunning photo opportunity. Open 9.30 am to 4.30 pm daily.
Than Thong Waterfall - Convenient spot to refresh
Easily accessible off Route 211, Than Thong is a popular spot for locals to cool off while enjoying a picnic -- often with no shortage of beer or whiskey.
There’s a roadside market on the hill above the falls in case you get hungry. About a km west of the falls is a roadside scenic area with some great views looking down over the Mekong.
• Beware of the super ferocious mosquitoes in the area.
ABOUT –
The little town of Sangkhom (สังคม), facing the Lao island of Don Klang Khong, makes for a great stop off on the journey along the Mekong. If you're looking for natural scenery, quiet relaxation, and authentic local riverside dining and drinking you've come to the right place. Did I mention the sunsets?
STAY
Banmai Rimkong Resort - Right On The Mekong - GT Riders TC*
Entrance from the main road - a fabulous place to stay. Let time go by while soaking up the Mekong and views of Laos. Make sure you book ahead. The resort is packed most nights.
"This has to be one of the hidden gems along this stretch. Gerrie and his Thai wife have done a wonderful job. They are extremely friendly.
Drink and relax in the restaurant and enjoy the lovely scenery.
Great Thai / Lao food. Half the staff are Thai and half Lao."
Email: banmairimkongresort@gmail.com
Telephone: 042441560, 08-66306176
Sand & River Hotel - แซนด์ แอนด์ ริเวอร์ หนองคาย **** 9.0 - 600b E/B
Next door to the one above, all rooms have balconies and million dollar river views, terrace, restaurant, bar, outdoor pool, sun loungers, fitness room, coffee shop, free on-site parking, tea / coffee maker in all rooms, 24 hour security, safety box
EAT
The best places to eat are typically local spots that offer delicious Isaan food and stunning views along the Mekong.
Sunflower Restaurant - aka Tantawan
The riverside terrace is the first choice for many visitors to Sangkhom because of the good food and big views. Isaan food and pastas.
Hak Khong Restaurant - fresh coffee at Sangkhom Viewpoint
It's a great spot for fresh coffee and local Thai dishes while enjoying an elevated view of the Mekong.
SUN
Nightlife consists mostly of sundowners by the Mekong.
SUNRISE
Phu Huai Isan Viewpoint - Nong Khai's best sunrise spot MAP
This remains the primary attraction. It offers spectacular panoramic views of the Mekong River, it's many islands and the mountain ranges on the Laos side, especially beautiful during the sunrise "sea of mist" (best seen in the cool season between October and May). They also have a big swing.
The only way to reach the peak is by parking at the foot of the hill and taking a local ‘E-Taek’ tractor, and these are available at the Ban Muang Administrative Office. It is recommended to arrive before 5 a.m. in order to catch the sunrise. For further details contact Tel. : 09 6068 2362
Need to leave by about 4.15 am. Could make an early start and do it enroute to the nexr place.
DRINK
The town itself is an ideal place to enjoy fresh-caught Mekong fish and Mekong whiskey at a restaurant terrace perched over the Mekong River.
DO
Wat Pa Phu Kon Temple - Thailand’s Obscure Blue Temple
1 hr 40 min / 75 km round trip MAP
Wat Pa Phu Kon (วัดป่าภูก้อน) is a magnificent and relatively modern Buddhist temple complex known for its stunning architecture, serene atmosphere, and spectacular mountain views.
The Blue Temple - The temple is famous for its distinctive roofs, which are a beautiful turquoise-green color.
The Reclining Buddha - The main attraction is the magnificent 20 meter long Reclining Buddha statue carved from over 40 large blocks of white Carrara marble imported from Italy, making it one of the most unique and beautiful Buddha statues in Thailand.
Mountain and Forest Setting - The temple is situated on top of a hill within the Na Yung–Nam Som National Forest Reserve. This elevated location provides sweeping, breathtaking views over 400 acres of preserved forest, creating a profoundly peaceful and inspiring atmosphere.
The interior is richly decorated, including 22 impressive copper plates depicting scenes from the life of the Buddha.
The Stupa (Chedi) - A 25 meter tall golden stupa sits on a plateau nearby. It is believed to contain holy relics of the Lord Buddha
Open 8.30 am - 5 pm.
It’s a 20 min ride and you could do it on the way back from the sunrise
Is a beautiful and relatively large multi-tiered waterfall located in lush, natural surroundings. It is a popular and tranquil natural attraction that is easily accessible from the Mekong River road that runs through Sangkhom.
The lower level of the waterfall is generally very accessible, being only a short and easy walk about 100 - 200 meters from the carpark. There are some food stalls around. It is worth going to the second level if there is enough water around. You need to be spiderman to get to the third level.
CHIANG KHAN 3N - One of Thailand’s most beautiful villages – 14,092 MAP
Day 1 - Than Thip Waterfall, smoko and viewpoints ( Phan Khot Saen Khrai Viewpoint จุดชมวิว พันโขดแสนไคร้) just before the BIG FISH, Orientate, Night market
Day 2 - Make merit, cooking school, bicycle trip, massage, water park, sunset drinks
Day 3 - View sunrise, visit Thai Dam people, sunset dinner cruise
ENROUTE
Stop in at Than Thip waterfall if you haven't made it yet.
SMOKO - overlooking the river @
Nong Pla Buek just before the BIG FISH and have coffee / smoko / lunch at one of the scenic riverside restaurants. Very scenic when the river is low and the rocks are exposed.
This place was nearby but there is nothing to see anymore -
The Ban Vinai Holding Centre - aka Ban Vinai Refugee Camp
Was a significant refugee camp in Thailand that primarily housed Hmong people who fled Laos. The camp's history is closely tied to the "Secret War" in Laos, where the Hmong were recruited by the CIA to fight against communist forces.
After the U.S. withdrawal from Laos and the communist takeover, thousands of Hmong people, facing persecution and genocide, fled across the Mekong River into Thailand.
The Ban Vinai Holding Centre was created to provide temporary asylum for the Hmong and other highland peoples from Laos. The goal was to either resettle them in a third country (like the United States) or, in the long term, for them to return to Laos. Thailand refused to grant them permanent residency.
The camp's population grew rapidly. It started with about 12,000 refugees and peaked at around 45,000 by 1985.
Despite the harsh conditions, the Hmong in Ban Vinai were able to maintain a strong sense of their traditional culture. They organized communities, upheld traditional leadership roles, and celebrated their heritage, including lively New Year's celebrations. Some Hmong leaders, including General Vang Pao, reportedly encouraged refugees to stay in Thailand in hopes of eventually returning to Laos to overthrow the communist government.
Chiang Khan 3N - ABOUT
Northeastern Thailand’s best kept secret, Chiang Khan is a relaxed and lovely town on the Mekong’s Thai bank.
Picture a traditional old town filled with picturesque wooden houses set in a beautiful spot along the Mekong River, with impressive views over the mountains of Laos and spectacular sunrises and sunsets to enjoy with a coffee or a beer.
It is a favorite destination for Thai tourists and it gets busy on weekends.
It's history is closely linked to its location on the Mekong River. First established as an outpost of the Lan Xiang kingdom, the original Chiang Khan was destroyed by Haw warriors from China’s Yunnan region in the 1700s. The town was later reestablished in its current location largely by Lao villagers and other migrants (including some from Vietnam and China) who crossed the river into Siamese territory, particularly after the French colonized Laos. It developed into an important trading hub on the river, dealing in goods like rubber, agricultural products, and even the opium trade. The preservation of its architecture is what gives the town its unique, nostalgic character today.
The heart of Chiang Khan is its famous Walking Street (Thanon Chai Khong), a street that runs parallel to the Mekong River.
The street is lined with beautifully preserved, century-old teakwood shophouses that showcase a unique blend of traditional Thai and French-Indochinese architectural styles. Many have been converted into cozy guesthouses, boutique hotels, charming cafes, and souvenir shops.
In the evenings, the street transforms into a lively but laid-back night market where you can browse local crafts, clothes, and sample regional delicacies like Maprao Kaew (sweetened coconut strips) and Khao Jee (grilled sticky rice with egg).
One of the town's most famous and revered traditions is the daily almsgiving ceremony at dawn (Tak Bat Khao Niao). Locals and visitors gather to offer food to a procession of Buddhist monks walking down the main street. This ritual remains an authentic and peaceful experience.
GETTING AROUND
Chiang Khan is a small town that's perfect for walking or bicycling.
Otherwise, tuk tuk is the only option, and there are plenty of them to go around.
TIPS
• Regardless the time of the year you decide to visit, try to avoid Chiang Khan on weekends and public holidays when it’s extremely overcrowded and packed with local tourists. During weekends it’s hard to find decent accommodation without booking in advance.
• There are numerous ATMs and several banks.
• The Tourist Information Centre located in a small wooden hut on the banks of the Mekong River in opposite the Chiang Khan School.
STAY - Waterfront & Walking Street - try Agoda etc for more
Excellent location on Walking Street and on the river, balcony with Mekong River views, free parking, restaurant with terrace and river views,
Excellent location at the end of Walking Street and on the river, balcony with river or mountain views, terrace, lounge, free parking, good Asian breakfast included, tea / coffee maker in rooms
โมเมนต์ แอ๊ท ริมโขง **** 9.4 - Moment at Rimkhong - 500b E/B
Excellent location on Walking Street and riverside, city and river views, free parking, buffet breakfast included,
Just past the edge of town, will need to be on special, 2 x outdoor pools, free parking, 2 x restaurants, bar, buffet breakfast included, garden, terrace, hot tub, coffee house,
EAT
Chiang Khan is a foodies paradise. You can wander around town sampling different treats or settle into a river view patio for a relaxing meal and a few drinks. Thai-Chinese, Isaan-Lao and Vietnamese are all widely available.
The Night Market, is a charming, pedestrian-only stretch running parallel to the Mekong River. It is famous for its retro, tranquil atmosphere, lined with beautiful century-old wooden shophouses, many of which are now guesthouses, cafes, and souvenir shops. As the sun sets, the street comes alive with vendors offering a wide array of cheap and unique local delicacies. Must-try snacks include Khao Jee (grilled sticky rice dipped in egg), skewered grilled tiny shrimp and crab, and Maprao Kaew (candied coconut strips). There are hippie and vintage shops, souvenir t-shirts, tons of street food stalls, live music and much more.
Chiang Khan Hill Resort&Hotel –
Great views of the Kaeng Khut Khu Rapids, outdoor terrace. Can pay to join the breakfast buffet. Otherwise the restaurant serves typical Thai fare.
Must-Try Dishes in Chiang Khan
1. Khao Pun Nam Jaew (ข้าวปุ้นน้ำแจ่ว)
This is considered Chiang Khan's signature local breakfast dish.
Delicate rice vermicelli (khao pun) served in a fragrant, clear broth flavored with a chili-based dipping sauce called nam jaew .
Try it at Pa Plang Khao Pun Nam Jaew (ป้าปลาค้าวปุ้นน้ำแจ่ว) A famous and well-regarded local shop.
2. Khai Grata (ไข่กะทะ) - Pan Eggs 🍳
This is a popular, simple, and hearty breakfast dish with Vietnamese inspiration.
Fried eggs served in a small metal skillet (krata), typically topped with ground pork, Chinese sausage and green onions. It's often seasoned with pepper and soy sauce and eaten with toasted bread or a baguette.
Try it at Soi Sao Restaurant on Walking Street. Also widely available at many cafes and morning street food stalls along Walking Street.
3. Mekong River Shrimps (Goong Foi)
These tiny freshwater shrimps are a local delicacy unique to the Mekong River region.
Goong Foi Tod Krob (Crispy Fried Shrimps) Baby shrimps coated in batter and deep-fried until crispy. Served with chili sauce.
Try them at the Night Market. Look for the vendors selling them on wooden skewers or in baskets ready to be fried—they are sold at almost every street food stall.
4. Maprao Kaew (มะพร้าวแก้ว) - Candied Coconut Strips
Coconut strips mixed with sugar and often dried or candied until crispy. It comes in different grades of crispiness and size.
Khao Piak Sen (ข้าวเปียกเส้น) -
Is a Lao-Style Noodle Soup. It is made of fresh rice noodle which is thick and round, in chicken or pork broth. The toppings of noodle can be varying from chicken, pork, meatball to egg.
Try it at Soi Sao Restaurant (near the start of Walking Street, famous for their noodles).
Naem Clook (แหนมคลุก) - My favourite
A spicy dry salad made from pounded fermented sausage (naem), crispy deep fried rice balls, fresh herbs, and spices. Very flavorful and served with fresh vegetables for wrapping. Try it from Auntie Haew Naem Clook (ร้านแหนมคลุกป้าแห่ว) who is highly praised for her 45-year-old recipe and generous portions.
Jum Nua Yai Phat (จ้ำนั่วใหญ่ผัด) -
A unique noodle soup similar to Thai Suki. Noodles of your choice in a delicious broth with marinated pork, morning glory, and a distinct pink color from fermented tofu sauce. Try it at Jum Nua Yai Phat Chiang Khan. A famous restaurant said to have been there for over 70 years.
Pa Plang Khao Pun Nam Jaew (ป้าปุ้ยข้าวปุ้นน้ำแจ่ว) -
A signature Chiang Khan noodle soup, often described as a richer, local version of Vietnamese Phở or a noodle curry. Located in an alley next to Wat Si Khun Muang.
Grandma Chum's Pork Leg Rice (ข้าวขาหมูคุณยายชุ่ม)
Khao Kha Mu - Traditional Pork Leg & Rice. Located on the Morning Walking Street (Soi 7).
Emperor Soup & Dim Sum (จักรพรรดิ์ซุป & ติ่มซำ)
Dim Sum & Soup - A popular spot for high-quality dim sum and delicious soup, perfect for a light lunch or snack. Located on Walking Street Soi 15.
Mekong Fish Dishes
Look for any of the restaurants with tables on the riverfront or "floating restaurants" for great views and fresh seafood/fish.
Pa Thong Ko - Deep-fried dough sticks -
Chinese donuts, often served with sweet cream or savory fillings like minced pork in Chiang Khan. Chiang Khan Walking Street - Look for vendors selling these stuffed snacks.
MIANG KUM -
Leaves stuffed with tamarind, shallots, peanuts, and ginger then folded together into bite-sized portions.
KHAO LAM (KHAO NIEOW)
These banana leaf packets are stuffed with sticky rice and taro then grilled over a charcoal fire.
Enoki Mushrooms Wrapped in Bacon : เบคอนพันเห็ดเข็มทองย่าง -
Everything is better with bacon
SMOKO - Chiang Khan has some great Coffee Shops
See I 249 Café -
Soi 9 Srichangkhan, is great for Western or Thai breakfast, coffee and drinks – a friendly place with live music at night.
Buppa Kaffe -
A small, lovely cafe hidden on the banks of the Mekong River, offering a super chill atmosphere perfect for relaxing and enjoying the riverside view.
Baansupichaya Chiang Khan Hotel
Cafe with great river terrace and homemade bakery - east of Dai Heng on street closest to river
Heon Luangprabang -
Riverfront place of Mr. Korn who was apparently a chef down in Bangkok for most of his career.
DO
Chiang Khan Walking Street Market -
From 5 -10pm daily. Tons of food and a few bars around to sit and people watch.
Sai Bat (or Tak Bat) -
The age-old tradition of saffron-robed monks on their morning alms round. Every morning, just before sunrise, visitors line up along the Chiang Khan Walking Street in anticipation of the monks’ daily pilgrimage from their temple.
Bike Ride -
Rent a bicycle from a neighbouring guesthouse and ride along the 2 km long riverfront ‘boardwalk’ near the Chiang Khan Walking Street.
1) Ride from the park down the riverside promenade.
2) Go to Soi 0 for bamboo rice.
3) Ride back along 2nd road.
4) Have a massage.
5) Go to water park.
6) Go to sunset bars at Khaeng Khut Khu
CHIANG KHAN WATER PARK -
Features an Olympic sized swimming pool with water slides. 3km outside Chiang Khan on road #211 towards Pak Chom. On turn off right before Kaeng Ku Ku road turn off.
Tai Dam Cultural Village -
At Ban Na Pa Nat 9am to 9pm ask about timings of cultural performances at the tourist information centre in Chiang Khan. MAP to TAI DAM
At the Tai Dam Cultural Village you can meet some of Southeast Asia’s most fascinating people. The now dispersed Tai Dam originated in Dien Bien Phu in Vietnam and the tight knit community living in Loei province crossed over from Lao PDR. to the Chiang Khan district during the Vietnam War.
The village has a cultural center, housed in a traditional stilt home, which serves as a small museum. Inside, you can see traditional tools, household items, artifacts, and examples of Tai Dam textiles.
The Tai Dam women are renowned for their intricate weaving. You can observe demonstrations of the centuries-old weaving process on traditional looms set up under or beside the houses.
The village is a great place to buy hand-woven fabrics, scarves, bags, and other crafts made by the local women's cooperative. The Tai Dam are known as the "Black Tai" because of their traditional black clothing, which is often beautifully accented with colorful embroidery and designs.
You can see model or preserved Tai Dam vernacular houses built on stilts with thatched roofs reflecting their ancestral architecture. These houses may include features like a "sacred" room for household spirits.
Visitors are invited to try on traditional Tai Dam clothing for photos, and on special occasions or with prior arrangement, you might be able to watch or participate in traditional Tai Dam dances or ceremonies, such as the welcoming ceremony.
Visitors can participate in the traditional Tai Dam's Pha Khao Laeng dinner. This is a communal, formal style of eating common in Northern Thailand and Isaan.
Tai Dam dishes are served on a Khan Tok—a small, round, pedestal tray made of bamboo. The meal is characterized by its rustic, local flavor.
The dinner is a social event involving guests and community members where you gather on mats at ground level. You might be treated to a traditional Tai Dam cultural show with dancing.
Follow the 201 south then turn left on the 3011and follow. It’s on the left opposite and just after the school in the village. There are two spots. Both shown on google maps. One on the highway and the other in town.
Cruise on the Mekong River -
Take a longtail boat on the river separating Thailand and Lao. Most guesthouses can arrange these tours, or variations of them, charging per boat.
Downstream
The journey to Pak Chom and back takes you through some of the most beautiful scenery on the Thai Mekong: hills and cliffs of all shapes and sizes advance and recede around the winding flow, and outside the rainy season, the rapids are dramatic without being dangerous (best Dec–April), and the shores and islands are enlivened by neat grids of market gardens. B3000/boat, around 6hr.
Upstream
Upstream trips head west towards the lofty mountains of Khao Laem and Khao Ngu on the Thai side and Phu Lane and Phu Hat Song in Laos, gliding round a long, slow bend in the Mekong to the mouth of the Heuang River tributary, 20km from Chiang Khan. Stops can be arranged to share the fine views with Phra Yai, a 20m-tall golden Buddha standing on a hilltop at the confluence, and at Hat Sai Kaew, a sandy beach for swimming, fishing and picnicking. Best undertaken in the afternoon, returning at sunset. B1500/boat, around 3hr.
SUNSET
The classic Chiang Khan sunset view is from the Mekong riverside promenade that runs parallel to the Walking Street. As the sun dips, it casts a spectacular golden light across the wide expanse of the Mekong River. You get a clear, unobstructed view of the sun dropping behind the rolling blue-green hills of Laos on the opposite bank.
It's a remarkably peaceful and laid-back experience. You can stroll along the well-maintained boardwalk, sit on a bench, or enjoy the view from one of the river-facing guesthouses. The atmosphere is very local and tranquil.
For a more panoramic and dramatic sunset head up to Phu Thok Mountain. MAP
While this spot is primarily famous for its spectacular sunrise view the high vantage point also offers a panoramic view that can be great for watching the late afternoon sun and the landscape bathed in the evening light.
The sunsets at Chiang Khan are a blend of natural beauty and calm, nostalgic charm that perfectly complements the slow, old-town atmosphere of the village itself.
Khaeng Khut Khu - 2km East
The sunset at Kaeng Khut Khu offers a different and more ruggedly beautiful experience due to the unique natural setting of the rapids area.
The banks of Kaeng Khut Khu are lined with local restaurants and stalls, selling fresh, grilled Mekong fish and local delicacies. It gets especially lively at sunset.
During the dry season there are also restaurants in the river bed. It is possible to swim in the Mekong here. You can catch a tuk tuk out here if you are having a few drinks.
Boat trips can also be arranged here, costing 750 baht for a private one-hour sunset cruise or 1,500 baht for a two - to three-hour trip upstream to Phra Yai and the Hueang River.
This tight bend in the river creates sandbanks and rapids from November to May when it’s also possible to see the famous coloured boulders that are submerged at other times.
Sunset Dinner Cruise - 5.30 pm
The Mekong River dinner cruise leaves from near the tourist information centre. You can buy food and drinks on the boat.
DRINK
Chiang Khan Walking Street is the heart of the action.
Vibrant Evening Market from 5 pm to 10 pm daily the street closes to traffic and becomes a lively market. It has an old-town, retro feel cast in a warm amber glow.
You'll find countless street food stalls and small open-air restaurants. You can grab dinner, snacks, or even buy a cold bottle of beer or a mixed drink from a stall to sip as you stroll.
The street features low-key entertainment like street performers and local musicians, which adds to the charming and chill atmosphere.
1. Joe+Beer - The premier craft beer bar in town. They offer an excellent selection of local Thai craft beers as well as international bottles and cans. They have live music and promenade seating for great riverside views.
2. Small Riverside/Guesthouse Bars
Many of the guesthouses, hotels, and small restaurants along the Walking Street convert into quiet bars in the evening -
Look for places with back balconies or patios facing the Mekong River. These are perfect for a quiet drink watching the river and the lights on the opposite Laos bank.
Some smaller, quieter bars are tucked into the side streets off the main walking street offering a more tranquil experience away from the main crowds.
You may find a few small pubs or dedicated bars that host live music. Keep an eye out for signs or listen for music as you walk along the main road.
Most bars start winding down around 10 - 10.30 pm but a few may stay open until midnight or slightly later.
SUNRISE - PHU THOK MAP
If you are an early riser head up to the top of Phu Thok Mountain for stunning views of the entire region and the "sea of fog" that often blankets it all in the early morning.
You have to park at the base and go up by songthaew. There is a small fee for both. You can pick up snacks at the bottom.
Chiang Khan to Na Haeo 1N (Lewa Nahaeo) - 2½ hour / 120 km MAP
Have to book Lewa Nahaeo on chat on messenger - no walk ins - no toxic guests. Follow the 2195 along the river until Nahaeo then turn right on 1268 then 2113 (Big 7/11 on RHS) to the "border crossing"
ENROUTE
The drive along the Mekong and through the hills of Tha Li is an impressive trip.
Located in the tiny village of Ban Tha Di Mi, 21 km west of Chiang Khan, Phra Yai ("Big Buddha") is a 19-metre-high, gold-hued standing Buddha placed on a high hill looking over the Chiang Khan Sky Walk down to where the Hueang River feeds the Mekong. This is where the Mekong and the Lao border separate.
There are various viewpoints along the route and a temple with a big Buddha's footprint on thr RHS just after a VP on the RHS just before Na Haeo.
Stay
The accommodation has great views and is quite unique. The owner doesn't want toxic guests so you have to get to know each other on messenger first. That's where you make your booking.They have good food.
Na Haeo to Khao Kho 2N MAP - 3H/50M - 199km
OR shorter more boring route MAP - 2H/37M - 160km
ENROUTE -
riding the Hidden Gem Number 9 Road (Hwy 2113) - it resembles the Thai number 9 (๙), a symbol of luck and tribute to the beloved King Rama IX.
Stop off at the famous viewpoint - Thailand’s Dept of Highways has created a designated viewpoint and rest area where you can park your bike, grab a drink, and enjoy the view. The road’s signature “9-shape” curve can be fully admired here — framed by rice paddies, forested hills, and (if you’re lucky) a veil of morning mist.
Further along is a cafe with a great view, also on the LHS
Ancient Salt Mine aka "Thousand Year Salt Well" - 15 kms past Dan Sai on the RHS - was used by Pho Khun Bang Klang Thao, the first king of Nakhon Thai (then known as Mueang Bang Yang), who reportedly used the salt from this well as a crucial food supply (sabiang) for his troops when fighting the Khom (Khmer).
Phu Hin Rong Kla National Park - These sites are relics of the former CPT headquarters (1968–1982), which served as a major political and military training ground. You can walk through the preserved wooden and bamboo structures that were once lecture halls, meeting rooms, dormitories, a jail, and even an infirmary (field hospital). It gives a strong sense of the primitive, organized life of the insurgents.
The central hub for the Communist Party's high command and administration. Includes a small museum with artifacts like rusted weapons, medical instruments, and propaganda materials.
A scenic cliff edge. This was the place where the CPT would fly the red "Hammer and Sickle" flag to mark victories against the Royal Thai Army. It offers stunning panoramic views over the valley.
The history is intertwined with the park's dramatic geology, characterized by weathered sandstone and extensive pine forests.
Hwy 2331 Phu Thap Boek is very hilly and winding with steep climbs and descents and is perfect for the bikes. The region is characterized by high elevations and dramatic changes in altitude. The journey on Highway 2331 is highly scenic, offering breathtaking views of rolling mountains and misty forests, especially at higher elevations in and around the national park.
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Or you could miss the park and cut 1H and 40kms off of the trip by staying on 2013 - 12 - 2196 to Khao Kho.
STAY - MAP
*Cassandra Khaokho Resort 8.8 - Go for the most expensive
Great location with a view, garden, spacious terrace, hot tub on the balcony, patio, free parking, Asian breakfast included, dining area, tea & coffee maker in room, 2 x choices for entire holiday home - more expensive one has a better entertainment area, BBQ supplied for your balcony
Krin Resort *** 7.8 - Go for the Superior Villa
Great location with a good view not too far from the one above, restaurant, garden, free parking, good breakfst included, entire villa - choice of two types
*Papa Garden Khaokho *** 8.7 - Family Bungalow
Excellent location with amazing view - half an hour and 20 kms south of the other 2, BBQ on your terrace, hot tub on your terrace, lush gardens, sun terrace, massage, mini-mart, outdoor seating areas, Thai / BBQ Restaurant, BBQ area, picnic spots, free parking, good breakfast included
HISTORY
In a turbulent period between 1968 and 1982, the mountainous region of Khao Kho served as a major stronghold and base camp for communist insurgents fighting against the Thai government. The area today features monuments and museums dedicated to the conflict, marking a key chapter in Thailand's Cold War history.
DO - MAP
Pino Latte Restaurant & Cafe -
The most famous spot offering a spectacular postcard-perfect view of the mountains and the iconic Wat Phra That Pha Son Kaew temple. Signature Pino Latte coffee, a range of bakery items (like Rainbow Cake and Chocolate Mousse Cake) and Thai and international dishes.
Is a stunning Buddhist monastery and temple complex set on a peak 830 meters above sea level, providing breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains.
The temple is famous for its colorful and intricate decorations. The main pagoda and surrounding buildings are adorned with over 5 million colorful mosaic tiles and pottery pieces, including crockery, beads, and fragments of glass and porcelain, giving it the "Glass Cliff" name.
The most iconic and recognizable structure is the colossal, multi-tiered statue featuring five serene white sitting Buddha statues lined up from largest to smallest. This can be seen from a great distance.
It serves as a place for spiritual practice and is dedicated to the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej the Great.
8 am - 4 pm
It was built in 1985 as a temporary residence and office for the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX) and Queen Sirikit during their visits to the area to conduct Royal Projects in Khao Kho.
Visitors must be dressed respectfully and have access to the outside area. There is a cafe onsite where you can get snacks, beverages and "military-style coffee"
Open daily from 6 am - 6 pm - Free
Than Itthi - The Weapon Museum (พิพิธภัณฑ์อาวุธ) -
Offers a compelling glimpse into Thailand's modern military history, particularly the conflict with communist insurgents in the region during the Cold War era (roughly 1968-1982).
The museum is located at the site of the former Itthi Military Base on Khao Kho Mountain, which was a strategic government outpost during the fighting.
The museum's primary focus is the battle against the communists on Khao Kho. It stands as a memorial to the Thai soldiers, police and civilians who fought and sacrificed their lives in the region.
The museum's open-air setting features a collection of retired military hardware and confiscated weapons, including -
Tanks, artillery, cannons, and machine guns
Pieces of downed aircraft, including helicopters and small planes
Visitors can explore reconstructed bunkers and the strategic headquarters of the former base.
Many of the smaller weapons on display, particularly those of Chinese and Russian origin, were confiscated from the insurgents.Life-sized mannequins are also used to recreate historical scenes.
6 am - 6 pm daily
Waterfalls -
The park features several beautiful waterfalls, including -
Namtok Tat Fa - The largest waterfall in the park, suitable for trekking and rafting
Namtok Than Thip - A 26-meter-high waterfall with a large basin and beach view
Namtok Khan Bandai - A 20-tiered waterfall that looks like steps
Mong Market - 2nd last point on map (In Thai script)
For souvenirs, shopping, eating & drinking, strolling, cafes, views
Is an unusual theme park that mixes prehistoric creatures with other unique themed areas.
The main attraction features numerous life-sized dinosaur replicas and animatronics that move and roar, creating an exciting and immersive experience.
The park goes beyond dinosaurs by incorporating other surprising themes like Ancient Egypt with King Kong, a Japanese Village, Mirror Maze - Glow-in-the-Dark Cave and other Thai whimsy.
Hours: Daily from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM.
Khao Kho Wildlife Breeding Station (Khao Kho Open Zoo) -
Run by the Wildlife Conservation Division dedicated to the breeding, propagation, and rehabilitation of various Thai wildlife species, especially those that are rare or endangered.
It also serves as a shelter for rescued or confiscated wildlife, including those taken from the illegal pet trade or those causing problems in local communities (like some monkeys or gibbons).
While it is a working conservation center, a section of the station is open to the public for educational and viewing purposes.
Visitors can observe a variety of native species like monkeys, gibbons.
black bears, deer and numerous bird species such including hornbills and other native fowl.The facility is set within the natural beauty of the Khao Kho hills, offering a serene environment for viewing the animals in their enclosures.
Daily from 9 am - 4 pm - free
There are numerous viewpoints scattered around the place plus the Phu Loet Skywalk, Khao Kho on Hwy 12 not far from the accommodation.
Eat & Drink
It's too dangerous to ride around at night because it is so dark. You could organise a BBQ for night two if the accommodation has the facilities. Many of them provide BBQ's and the meat anyway.
Enjoy a few drinks on your spectacular terrace.
Khao Kho - Dan Sai – (Phu Pha Nam Resort) 2N MAP - 2H / 110 km
For a small town in a backwater province, Dan Sai is no ordinary place.
ENROUTE
Dan Sai Viewpoint – lots of ghosts
Dan Sai's most significant historical site is Phra That Si Song Rak, a stupa built in 1560 by King Maha Chakrapat of Ayutthaya and King Saysettha of Lan Xang (Laos) to symbolize a defensive pact against the Burmese. This highlights Dan Sai's past importance as a border area between the two kingdoms.
In Dan Sai is the Phi Ta Khon Museum - Freaky costumes
A visit to the Phi Ta Khon Dan Sai Museum offers a fascinating look into the unique and colorful Phi Ta Khon (Ghost) Festival celebrated annually in the Dan Sai district.
The museum is located within the grounds of Wat Phon Chai, the main temple where many of the festival's rituals and parades begin. The main draw is the extensive collection of Phi Ta Khon masks and costumes. These masks are the heart of the festival—they are brightly painted, often frightening or humorous, and are traditionally crafted from materials like coconut husks, sticky rice steamer baskets and banana trunks.
There are exhibits explaining the origins and significance of the Phi Ta Khon festival, which is a blend of Buddhist legend (the return of Prince Vessantara) and local animistic beliefs. Displays include historical photos and displays on how the masks and costumes are traditionally made.
STAY
Phu Pha Nam Resort **** 7.2 - 700 B for an extra bed
Best pool ever with spectacular views, Onsen - Lake - Massage - Steam – Sauna - Star gazing, fitness centre, sun terrace, lush garden, restaurant, bar, tea & coffee makers in room, 24 hour desk, free parking, concierge service, breakfast included
DO
Phu Rua Jaidee Golf - หจก. ภูเรือใจดีกอล์ฟแอนด์รีสอร์ท
Google Maps says it is Permanently closed but it still looks open
2013 towards town - right @ 21 - left on 3008 - left @ sign - well signed from hwy 21
The 9 hole course is tight and as in most courses in the region water is always a hazard.
Namtok Pla Ba waterfall -
Cool down after golf? Well signed from golf course. Namtok Pla Ba waterfall - Free, peaceful with grilled chicken and fish in the carpark.
11.30 am – 10pm. Pla Ba Waterfall is the most easily accessible waterfall of Phu Ruea District which is a beautiful waterfall, and it is very convenient to travel.
Aka Tad San waterfall, Waterfall Flying Fish.
Chateau de Loei Winery -
The Chateau de Loei Winery is a notable part of Thailand's emerging wine industry, particularly recognized for being the country's oldest commercial winery.
Conventionally, wine-making grapes have usually been developed in the northern and southern hemispheres between the 30th and 50th parallels. However, Thailand has been able to lead the way in the production of wine that is now known as ‘New Latitude’ wines by growing grapes in a confined area in the north between the 14th and 18th parallels. Initially believed to be an impossible feat, Thailand has disproved this belief and now produces over 1 million bottles of wine every year, such as red, white, dessert wine and even sparkling wines made in the traditional method.
Dr. Chaijudh Karnasuta, the late hotelier and construction tycoon, is well-regarded as being the 'father' of Thailand's grape wine industry due to his massive contributions and successes in the field. From vision to reality, in 1991 Dr. Chaijudh Karnasuta planted his very first vines at Chateau de Loei and relished in his first commercial harvest only 4 years later.
The winery itself has been in operation since around 1991. Located on the Phu Rua Highland where the vineyard spans over a thousand rai (hundreds of acres) and offers a similar climate to the South of France than the southern lowlands, which is more conducive to viticulture.
After initially recieving mixed reviews the winery hired international winemasters, including Frenchman Michel Rippes and Australian Peter Burford, to improve the quality of its wines, which include a Syrah and a Chenin Blanc.
Visitors are welcome to tour the vineyard with a guide and have a look inside the main building. The winery now exports a variety of wines to Europe and Japan. There is a roadside gift shop where visitors can purchase bottles of wine, home-made ice cream, passionfruit juice and macadamias. There is a great restaurant on-site where you can dine in style while sampling the best of Thailand’s wines.
Visitors must obtain a pass to tour the vineyard. This is available at the Chateau de Loei shop near the vineyard entrance. Open every day from 8 am - 7 pm.
PHU RUEA 2N - Boat Mountain MAP - 25m / 25km
The peak of Phu Ruea (1,365 meters above sea level) has been regarded the coldest location in Thailand during the winter season for several years.
STAY
*Phurua Bussaba Resort & Spa ภูเรือบุษบารีสอร์ท แอนด์ สปา 7.5- 300b E/B
A-Frame Cabins, garden, terrace, views, Phuruea Route 21 restaurant, free parking, buffet breakfast included, BBQ facilities, Coffee house, snack bar – sign is in Thai
Phurua Inn ภูเรือ อินน์ *** 8.0
Has a seasonal outdoor swimming pool, garden, free parking, a terrace and restaurant in Loei. This 3-star hotel offers room service and a 24-hour front desk. Guests can make use of a bar.
DO
Wat Somdet Phu Ruea -
The temple is highly ornate located in a stunning mountaintop location offering panoramic views. During the winter, it is sometimes enveloped in a sea of mist, which is specifically noted as creating a "surreal impression of a temple floating above the clouds."
Giant thermometer
At the top of the mountain
Poinsettia Garden Phurua -
At the entrance to the park is Poinsettia Garden which is popular with Thais who like to take selfies to post on social media. The poinsettia plant is popularly called Christmas Tree by local people due to the fact that the green leaves turn red during the cool season.
Phu Ruea Park – Sunrise enroute or from here
The park is centered around Phu Ruea Mountain, whose name, meaning 'Boat Mountain,' comes from a cliff near the summit that resembles a ship's bow.
1. Sunrise and Sea-of-Mist Views
Watching the sunrise from one of the viewpoints is the park's iconic highlight. On a clear morning, you can witness the sun rising over a "sea-of-mist" that often blankets the valleys below, creating a truly spectacular and unforgettable scene.
The main viewing areas are generally near the summit of Phu Ruea Peak. Pha Lon Noi is another recommended viewpoint for a superb sunrise, offering views of surrounding mountains like Phu Luang.
To catch the sunrise, you must enter the park early (it opens daily at 5 am). You can drive to a parking area near the summit, and from there, you can either take a short nature trail to the viewpoint or hire one of the local pick-up truck (songtaeo) services for the final distance.
2. Phu Ruea Peak (The Summit)
Reaching the Phu Ruea Peak at 1,365 meters above sea level is a primary goal for visitors.
The peak is famous for the cliff that inspired the park's name, as it resembles the bow of a large ship.
From the summit, you can enjoy extensive panoramic views of the rugged mountain ranges, including views of the Mekong and Hueang Rivers, and even the mountains of Laos on a very clear day.
3. Huai Phai Waterfall
It is a tall, steep natural waterfall with a steady stream of water cascading from about 30 meters overhead. It's a great spot to enjoy the lush, cool forest environment and relax by the water.
4. Wildlife
Phu Ruea National Park is a haven for diverse wildlife, thriving in the cool climate and various forest types. The park officially records 257 species of wild animals, including 37 species of mammals and 162 species of birds.
Mammals
Phu Ruea is home to a variety of large and small mammals, though many are naturally elusive.
Barking Deer, Northern Red Muntjac, Sambar Deer, Wild Boar, Asiatic Wild Dog, Sun Bear, Asian Black Bear, Palm Civet, Small Indian Civet, Asian Golden Cat, Indochinese Leopard, Dusky Langur, Bengal Slow Loris, Malayan Porcupine, Black Giant Squirrel, Siamese Hare, rabbitsand various species of bats.
Birds
The park's diverse habitats support a large and varied avian population, making it a good destination for bird enthusiasts. It is also a stopover point for migratory birds from China during the winter.
Red Junglefowl, Siamese Fireback, Great Hornbill, Scarlet Minivet, Blue-winged Leafbird, Asian Fairy-Bluebird, Silver-breasted Broadbill, Mountain Hawk-Eagle, Asian Barred Owlet, Rufous-winged Buzzard, Common Species Yellow-vented Bulbul, Greater Coucal, Plain Prinia, Coppersmith Barbet, Brown-throated Sunbird and the Mountain Imperial Pigeon.
Reptiles and Amphibians
The park's water sources and rocky areas are home to a number of reptile and amphibian species.
The Big-headed Turtle is an endangered and protected species present in the park, Clouded Monitor, Asian Water Monitor and the Siamese Spitting Cobra.
Ban Haitak Viewpoint – 20 mins / 20 kms – smoko or sunset MAP
Coffee shop with a million dollar view and you can see high mountainous areas in Chaiburi Province of the Lao People's Democratic Republic which in the evening will face the sun set.
11.30 am - 9.30 pm
EAT
Roast Chicken Restaurant - Phu Ruea Kai Yang
Grilled chicken is delicious and famous.
21 Highway
Phu Rua Phochana
The menu is extensive and the food excellent.
Opposite Phu Ruea Post Office
Love Loei Coffee
The coffee is excellent. The best drinks in town! Also a good place to buy souvenirs from lovely Phu Reuea! Nice garden setting. Delicious ribs.
Sabun Nga Resort
Phurua Bussaba Resort & Spa
Terrace Hide restaurant, Located In The Most Beautiful Corner Of The Hotel. You can sit and eat a cup of coffee.
Khram Keeree Cafe
Pea Blue Drinks and Mochi. Mango cream is very delicious. Bagels, outdoor seating
LOEI 3N - MAP - 'The Emerald of Northeastern Thailand'
ENROUTE
This quiet road goes through the mountains with beautiful panoramas. Thai people call this road “road of flowers” as there are many flower farms near the road.
LONG LUNCH
Huai Krathing Reservoir - sublime relaxation.
Turn left at Rural road 3010 (well signposted). The third place along is said to be a co-op and the best one.
The floating lunch experience on the bamboo rafts at Huai Krathing Reservoir in Loei Province, Thailand, is a popular and very relaxing way to spend an afternoon surrounded by natural beauty.
Rent Your Raft - You arrive at one of the several local restaurants or vendors located on the shore of the reservoir (like Pa Puean Phong or Pa Phai Ngam). The main activity is renting a traditional bamboo raft that features a small, covered hut on top.
Raft rental is typically very affordable for a small-to-medium raft (fitting up to 4 -10 people) for the entire day with no time limit. Larger rafts are also available.
The rafts usually come equipped with mats, pillows, life jackets, and trash cans for a comfortable, laid-back atmosphere.Before you are towed out, you place your order for food and drinks at the restaurant on the shore.
Once your food is being prepared, a boatman will tow your private raft house out into the middle of the reservoir. You are left floating gently in a serene spot with panoramic views of the water and the surrounding lush, forested mountains.
Your food and drinks are delivered to you later by a long-tail boat. If you need more food, ice, or drinks, or are ready to return, you simply call the restaurant and a boat will come to you. Or raise your flag.
You can swim directly off your raft. The water is deep, so life jackets are available and recommended. It is also very clean. Some places also offer inner tubes for rent.
Food & Drinks
The cuisine is largely Isaan (Northeastern Thai) food and classic made-to-order Thai dishes, and the prices are very reasonable.
Popular Dishes: You can expect local favorites such as:
Som Tum (Spicy Papaya Salad)
Grilled Pork or Grilled Fish
Spicy soups (like Tom Yum or Tom Sab)
Rice and various side dishes.Drinks: Cold beer, ice, soft drinks, and water are available for delivery to your raft. Some places also allow you to bring your own drinks from outside.
Practical Tips
Most raft services open around 8 am - 9 am and close between 5 pm and 6 pm daily.
It can get crowded on weekends, so it's advisable to arrive before 2 pm to ensure you get a raft.
Bring your bathers, a towel, sunscreen, insect repellent, and cash.
ABOUT – 35,273
Before becoming the 20th Thai province in 1907, Loei passed back and forth between the Ayutthaya kingdom of the Chao Phraya basin and the Lan Xiang kingdom of Luang Prabang and Vientiane.
Loei is a beautiful province for self - drive. Most of the roads are quiet and you will enjoy many beautiful panoramas. Some roads are even one of the most beautiful ones in Thailand.
GETTING AROUND
Loei town is small enough that you can easily walk anywhere.
The city is also conducive to bicycles, which can be rented at Sugar Guesthouse, Muanmanee Boutique Hotel and Loei Palace Hotel.
Tuk tuks are also readily available to taxi you around town.
STAY
Beautiful location on the east side of the river in a green area. The rooms are the best you can get in Loei, big and well furnished with large bathrooms with marble decoration.
A big swimming pool sits on the outdoor terrace and the staff are quite friendly and with good English speaking skills. Cafe - with wine, bike rental
2 restaurants, bar, fitness centre, free parking, sun terrace
EAT - MAP
Brekky
Makan ร้านมะกัน MAP
Makan make the best breakfast in Loei.
Praised for its excellent, low-priced, and authentic Loei-style breakfast, particularly its Khai Ka Ta Khanom Pang (pan egg with pork-filled buns) and Crispy Pork Buns. Located in a former tailor shop run by the owner's daughters, it's a bustling, family-run spot known for delicious iced teas and coffee, serving locals and visitors alike.
Makan is a shophouse restaurant that has been in operation for nearly 40 years. It's a lively, family-run establishment that is often crowded with locals, especially in the morning. It was once a tailor's shop and is now run by the original owner's daughters.
6am – 11.30 am (closed Mondays)
Loei Danang Vietnamese Restaurant
Nice Vietnamese place on same side before you get to Makan
Open 8 am – 5 pm
Loei Night Market -
The night market in Loei, often referred to as Sab Kor Food Street (Loei Night Food Market Walking Street), is an authentic and bustling spot that focuses heavily on local Thai street food and beverages.
It's a popular meeting area for locals to chat and dine together. The market is a compact area, with the food stalls setting up as the sun goes down. In the city center, it's situated alongside a picturesque canal, which provides a nice backdrop. There are iron tables and chairs set up.
You'll find various meats on a stick, including spicy beef satay, grilled chicken and pork skewers.
Classic street food like Pad Thai and various spicy noodle dishes.
Fresh seafood including dishes like seafood with glass noodles.
Local Specialties & Unique Finds - Tapioca, vegetable, and bamboo cakes, HALAL food and various sweet treats and small snacks from multiple vendors.
Chum Phae Korean Bar-B-Q -
Just past Outlaw Brewing's outdoor tables looking out over the water
Duck Larb -
Restaurants in Loei province, including those in the popular town of Chiang Khan, have been noted to specialize in duck dishes, including duck larb. The Tourism Authority of Thailand lists Duck Larb as one of the highlighted dishes for the Loei province.
Loei has unbelievable coffee shops, such as -
Phu Loei Restaurant -
Serves a full menu in addition to coffee, tea, and cakes.
ME-SUK มีสุข -
Centrally located and highly-rated spot for coffee, close to the hotel and at the back of Outlaw Brewing
Barchar Camp Specialty Coffee n Matcha -
Specializes in high-quality coffee and matcha.
Plearn Specialty Coffee -
Known for its dedication to specialty coffee
A cozy spot focused on delivering excellent specialty coffee
Noob Coffee And Home Studio -
Blends a coffee shop with a home studio atmosphere.
Offers a comfortable cafe experience with a focus on good coffee.
*Khao Tom Raeng Ngan -
Looking @ water further on from Outlaw beer - there are lots of cafe's and restaurants along this stretch of water.
A popular spot for late-night Thai comfort food, particularly khao tom (rice soup or porridge).
Khao Tom Raeng Ngan - closed Wed
Looking @ water further on from Outlaw beer - there are lots of cafe's and restaurants along this stretch of water.
A popular spot for late-night Thai comfort food, particularly khao tom (rice soup or porridge). The place is usually hopping with university students and extended families taking advantage of the beer towers and whiskey selection.
3.30 pm –12.01 am
ชาบูแกรนด์@เลย – Shabu Grand -
Same street as Makan and Viet Place
Popular spot for shabu-shabu (Japanese-style hot pot).
Sitting between the 2 restaurants noted above it is also surrounded by Isaan restaurants.
DO
Kumlung-Ake Golf Course 9 Holes, aka Kamlang Ek MAP
Military Sri Song Ruk Camp
Founded in 1998 and nestled in the picturesque landscape of Sri Song Ruk Army Camp the Kumlung-Ake Golf Course offers a unique and challenging golfing experience. The course has well-manicured fairways, challenging bunkers, and panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. Visitors are very welcome and the green fees are very very affordable. The facility includes Caddy services (required), club rental and a retaurant as part of its amenities.
There is a Driving Range in town if you need a practice session
Phu Pha Lom Forest Park -
Located about 25 kilometres from the Loei municipality, Phu Pha Lom is an 800-acre park of jungle and mountain ranges. The park has a number of trails and a number of points where people stop to take in the area’s natural beauty. The park also has a cave system that visitors can explore. As with most parks, Phu Pha Lom Forest Park is a haven for wildlife which includes squirrels, jungle fowl and bats. The limestone mountain range is also home to a number of endangered species.
SUN
Phu Bo Bit Forest Park - take a torch / flashlight
Is a renowned destination in Loei, particularly famous among locals and visitors for its spectacular panoramic views, and the sunset is a major highlight.
Viewpoint: The mountain offers a magnificent 360-degree panoramic view from the top, providing a perfect vantage point to watch the sun dip below the horizon.
As the sun sets, the sky is painted in brilliant shades of orange, pink, and purple. The view includes the expansive Loei city below, the surrounding mountains, and often the Loei River. As darkness falls, the city lights begin to twinkle, creating a stunning contrast with the afterglow of the sunset.
It is a very popular spot, with many locals coming in the late afternoon and evening for exercise and to enjoy the sunset, often staying until after dark to see the city lights fully illuminate.
The park is about 3km out of town and open daily, generally from 6 am - 7 pm. The path lights are turned off between 7.30 - 8 pm so bring a torch and don't hang around the summit after 7 pm.
Along the way you will pass by rest stops, Buddha statues, and a small Buddha cave and shrine. There is no entrance fee, but you may be asked to sign in and out with the officer on duty.
DRINK - MAP
Was founded by Canadian brewer Mike Roberts around 2015. Due to strict Thai laws regarding brewing, the operation initially had to be "underground." The brewery started in the back of an ice cream shop in Loei, selling beer without advertising. They are known for their IPA's, ales, wheat beers and ciders. Inside / outside seating by the river, music, darts, great food etc. No hangover guaranteed!!
Saloon Loei - Lots of bars and clubs down this street
A highly regarded bar and restaurant, often favored by expats and tourists. It's known for serving both Western and Thai food, cold beer, good music, and having a pool table in a friendly atmosphere. It's generally open until midnight.
A modern pub that focuses on local craft beers and cocktails.
Robot 2029 Highway 2038! -
This is a pretty crazy space themed club in an otherwise quiet town. Cheap bottle service, live karaoke, Both male and female coyote dancers. Young crowd, DJ's, girls dressed up like Las Vegas dancers.
This is pretty much the only disco in Loei. It has been here a long time and through many incarnations. Also has outside seating.
Blabla -
One of the more popular nightlife venues in the city. It provides a vibrant nightlife experience with a lively atmosphere.
It is located in the Kut Pong area which has the concentration of Loei's nightlife spots.
Open every evening from 7 pm - 2 am
Barbasic -
Considered a premier night club in the Kut Pong area, it's a popular spot for an energetic night out. It offers music, drinks, and a lively atmosphere, typically open until midnight.
Ubolratana Dam - Varee Resort 2N - 2h50m / 155km
MAP
ENROUTE
Wat Tham Erewan -
A stunning cave temple perched high on a karst mountain between Loei and Nong Bualamphu, is accessed via 600 manageable steps. A large Buddha statue guards the entrance to the immense chamber. Follow a line of lights through the massive cave to emerge on the mountain's opposite side. Plan your visit between 11 AM and Noon or 2 PM and 3 PM to witness sunlight dramatically stream through a roof opening, illuminating the cave's interior.
Pha Chor Cave -
Discover a true hidden sanctuary at Pha Chor Cave a remarkable cave temple that remains largely untouched by mainstream tourism. Nestled on a hilltop, this gem offers a unique and profoundly rewarding escape for the adventurous.
The trail involves a steady climb up a series of stairs, a journey of 15 minutes or longer. Upon reaching the cave, you are greeted with a quiet atmosphere and the serene presence of the cave temple, Wat Phuttha Banphot.
While the interior of the cave is an ancient place of worship, the elevated position of the temple provides rewarding views of the surrounding landscape.
Stay
Varee Valley Resort and Restaurant *** 7.8 -
Riverside restaurant and bar with serenly bucolic views, free parking, BBQ facilities, garden, tennis court, karaoke, laundry, fishing, 24 hour desk, room service, concierge service, 24 hour security
ABOUT - MAP
The dam was originally known as "Phong Neep Dam" or "Phong Nip Dam".
It holds the distinction of being the first large hydroelectric power project developed in Thailand's northeastern region of Isan. It is also the second multipurpose dam built in Thailand, after the Bhumibol Dam.
Construction of the dam on the Nam Phong River began in 1964. It was completed and closed in 1965 (or 1966).
The dam was officially named "Ubol Ratana Dam" by royal permission in 1966, in honor of Princess Ubol Ratana, the eldest child of King Bhumibol Adulyadej the Great. The opening ceremony was performed by Their Majesties King Bhumibol Adulyadej the Great and Queen Sirikit the Queen Mother, accompanied by Princess Ubol Ratana, on March 14, 1966.
Ubolratana Dam and its massive reservoir, which forms an expansive lake, are a popular recreational and tourist destination offering a mix of water-based fun, relaxation and cultural visits.
The reservoir area is often likened to a large beach resort for the region, particularly the area known as Bang Saen 2 (named after the famous beach in Chonburi).
Visitors can rent boats and enjoy a cruise on the beautiful lake.
Floating Restaurants - A unique local experience is dining at one of the countless floating restaurants (often on rafts) along the shores, where you can enjoy local Isan cuisine and a relaxing atmosphere. Some larger rafts are suitable for group parties and karaoke.
Seasonal "beaches" and designated areas like Hat Sawan or Hat Non Yao offer places for swimming and relaxing.
Fishing - The reservoir is a significant source of fish and is a place for fishing and fish breeding.
Camping - Designated spots, such as Kaen Sila Camping, allow visitors to pitch tents and enjoy watching the sunset over the dam.
Visitors can walk along the dam crest to take photos and enjoy the panoramic views of the reservoir and the surrounding hills. It's especially popular during the cooler evenings or at sunset.
The area around the dam offers parks and shaded spots for a relaxing break, picnic and cafes are also available.
Nearby Attractions
Wat Phra Bat Phu Phan Kham - This is a major cultural and religious site near the dam. It features a large white Buddha statue ("Luang Pho Khao") enshrined on a mountain. You can enjoy a spectacular 360 -degree view of the Ubolratana Dam reservoir from the top. Access is either by climbing a long staircase (over 1,000 Naga steps) or by driving to the summit.
Nam Phong National Park - Located nearby, the park offers natural attractions and viewpoints, such as the Hin Chang Si View Point.
Phu Aen Sky Walk - A newer landmark in the nearby Phu Kao-Phu Phan Kham National Park, this glass skywalk offers another impressive vantage point for viewing the area.
Ubolratana Dam Golf Course - 18 Holes
Green Fees waiver for over 60's on Thursdays!! (except for tax)
Experience playing golf amidst a natural atmosphere in the Ubonrat Dam area. "The air is good, safe, and friendly. With facilities including a golf equipment shop, locker rooms, restaurants, and coffee shops, all open continuously, allowing all athletes to fully enjoy playing golf at the Ubonrat Dam Golf Course, a large golf course in the heart of the Northeast."
Ubolratana Dam Golf Course’s new club house was opened in 2011 and has all the usual facilities. Good size locker rooms with plenty of showers and a ProShop. Food and drink are available in the restaurant.
It is best to avoid weekends when it can get extremely busy.
RED LOTUS LAKE 1N - โรงแรมมาเดอบัว Ma Der Bua 2h40m / 115km MAP
ENROUTE
Khon Kaen Zoo (Khao Suan Kwang Zoo) - Khon Kaen Water Park - Sky Walk
Is a large, open-range zoo and a center for wildlife conservation. Open from 8 am - 4.30 / 6 pm.
Key Attractions are Tung Saen Kwang - A large exhibition zone with hundreds of deer, barking deer, and antelope. Visitors can feed the deer.
"Hello Madagascar" -
African animal zone with White Tigers, Lions, White Lions, White Rhinoceros, Hippos, Giraffes, Zebras, Ostriches, Emus, and a Seal show.
Animal Feeding Shows -
Feeding times for the big cats like White Tigers, Tigers, Lions, and White Lions.
The zoo is large, and you can get around by shuttle bus or rent a golf cart.us: Adults 25 Baht, Children 10 Baht.
Jungle Splash Water Park - 6 acres
Pools for adults and children, water slides, and a 450-meter-long whirlpool canal (lazy river). Enjoy whirl pooland slider tower which is 15 m high with both the rails and Rails in the jungle!.
Skywalk (Giraffe Pattern Bridge)
Sometimes referred to as the "Longest Giraffe Pattern Bridge in Thailand." It offers a high vantage point to view animals like giraffes and zebras in the open-range area.
Both the Zoo and Water Park have food centres and you can get Gai Yang (Isaan Grilled Chicken), Som Tam (Spicy Green Papaya Salad) and Khao Niaw (Sticky Rice) in the carpark.
RED LOTUS LAKE 1N - STAY
Ma Der Bua *** 8.2 - โรงแรมมาเดอบัว -
Good location close to the lake and 2 minutes walk from Ban Diam Pier (the main one), restaurant, cafe, mini-mart, 24 hour security, free parking
SEE & DO
The "Red Lotus Lake," officially known as Nong Han Kumphawapi Lake or Talay Bua Daeng (Red Lotus Sea) is a stunning natural attraction.
Mid-November is generally considered the start of the blooming season for the lake's flowers.
Early Morning is Crucial - The water lilies open with the morning light and begin to close as the day heats up.
Optimal viewing hours are 6 am - 11 am. To truly experience the magic of sunrise over the flowers and to secure a good boat, it is highly recommended to arrive before or around sunrise. You could have it organised the day before. Check with the hotel when you book in.
Boats are available for hire from the main Ban Diam Pier 2 minutes walk from the hotel.
Tours typically last between 60 and 90 minutes. As your boat cruises out from the shore, the view transforms into a vast, surreal tapestry of pink water lilies stretching across the water. It's a fantastic spot for photography, especially with the cool, gentle morning light. You may also spot local fishermen and various birdlife.It can get busy on weekends.
After the tour it's time for brunch. There are lakeside restaurants and cafes right near the main pier. You will find your usual Isaan staples such as Som Tam, Gai Yang, and sticky rice. Also you might find lotus stem coconut curry and spicy lotus stem Som Tam, a unique local twist.
Coffee and drinks are readily available from coffee stalls and small cafes.
Save some room for a Vietnamese banquet. Lots of room!
UDON THANI 2N - 1h45min / 72km MAP
or 1h / 45km if you wish to skip the HCM Historical Site
ENROUTE
VT Nem Nuang, Mittraphap Branch -
The VT Nem Nuang, Mittraphap Branch is a widely celebrated destination known for its authentic and high-quality Vietnamese cuisine, particularly its namesake dish, Nem Nuang.
The Mittraphap branch is known for its impressive upscale and spacious atmosphere being compared to an airport terminal. It is a modern, large-scale facility with excellent facilities and displays of Vietnamese memorbilia.
Souvenirs - In addition to being a restaurant, this branch doubles as a famous souvenir shop, selling local products from Udon Thani and Vietnam.
Open daily from 6 am - 9 pm.
The restaurant's reputation is built on the freshness of its ingredients and the distinct flavor of its signature dish Nem Nuang.
This is the must-try item. It consists of Vietnamese grilled pork paste or meatballs, served with a generous basket of fresh, crisp herbs and vegetables, rice paper wrappers, and a special savory dipping sauce.
Quality - The restaurant is noted for using its own salad farm to ensure the vegetables are fresh and crunchy.
Sauce - The dipping sauce is often cited as the highlight, providing the perfect balance of saltiness, sourness, sweetness, and a touch of spice.
Other treats include -
Fermented Rice Noodles in Coconut Curry
Vietnamese Pork Rolls
Shrimp Wrapped in Sugarcane
Banh Hoi and Banh Beo (types of Vietnamese cakes/noodles)
Various other sausages and fried items like deep-fried pork sausage.
To keep the Vietnamese theme going you could detour via Uncle Ho's House
Ho Chi Minh Historical Site – Optional or could visit the first time in UT
During 1928 and 1929, Ho Chi Minh used the jungle around Nong Hang village as one of his bases to train soldiers and rally Isan's sizeable Vietnamese community for his resistance against the French occupation of Vietnam. This is a replica of his thatched-roof, mud-wall house, plus a very modest museum about his life.
A visit to the Hồ Chí Minh Historical Educational and Tourism Historical Site offers an insightful look into a little-known chapter of the Vietnamese leader's life and the history of Thai-Vietnamese relations.
The site is significant because it commemorates the time when Ho Chi Minh, under the alias "Thau Chin", lived and worked in the area as a revolutionary organizing for Vietnamese independence from French colonial rule.
1. The Historical Dwelling
As you enter the compound, one of the main attractions is the reconstructed thatched-roof, mud-wall house (sometimes called Bâhn lung hoh or 'Uncle Ho's House' by locals). This replica shows the simple living quarters where Ho Chi Minh stayed during his time here in the late 1920s.
Inside the replica house and nearby reconstructed buildings (like a classroom and rice shed), you can see displays of the simple, daily items he would have used. This part of the site helps visitors visualize his humble life as he worked undercover.
2. The Museum and Exhibition Hall
A larger, more modern Vietnamese-style building houses the main museum and exhibition hall.
The museum contains an impressive collection of photos, artwork, sculptures, maps, and documents that detail Ho Chi Minh's life and his dedication to his nation's independence. Some displays include interactive videos and materials from the 1960s and 70s.
The site is generally open every day from 8 am - 4 pm and is free.
History of Ho Chi Minh in Udon Thani
In the late 1920s, Ho Chi Minh, still a young revolutionary, traveled to Siam (now Thailand) with the objective of organizing and strengthening the Vietnamese anti-colonial movement among the large Vietnamese expatriate community (Viet Kieu) in the region. At this time, Siam served as a safe base beyond the reach of the French colonial authorities.
While in Thailand, Ho Chi Minh operated under the pseudonym Thau Chin.
He arrived in Thailand around the beginning of 1927 and, as part of his journey throughout the northeast, he spent time in the village of Nong Pracham (now Nong On) near Udon Thani, particularly during 1928 and 1929.
During his time in the village, he lived a simple life, sometimes working as a farmer. Crucially, he used this time to interact with and mobilize the Vietnamese community. He taught local Vietnamese and Thai children and adults various languages, including English, Thai, and Vietnamese. He also engaged in revolutionary activity, preparing his compatriots for the independence struggle back home.
While Udon Thani was a base, Ho Chi Minh moved across the region, also spending a significant amount of time in Nakhon Phanom (at a location now known as the Thai-Vietnamese Friendship Village at Ban Na Chok). Both the Udon Thani and Nakhon Phanom sites were later established as historical memorials, commemorating his presence and symbolizing the close relationship between the two countries.
Taew Laap Bet Duck Restaurant – Isaan Duck Restaurant
Tasty Isaan duck. Known for their Larb Duck & Duck Soup with eggs. 32 m north past the Irish Clock on RHS – next to Country Bar, Thai sign.
The Thai-Chinese Cultural Centre -
Is a prominent and beautifully designed cultural landmark dedicated to preserving and showcasing the history, traditions and philosophy of the Thai-Chinese community in Udon Thani and the wider Isaan region.
1. The Thai-Chinese History and Moral Museum (Khunnatham Museum)
The upper floor features exhibits detailing the story of the Thai-Chinese community in Udon Thani over the past 120 years, covering their trade, education, and the formation of the local clans and the Pu-Ya Foundation.
The ground floor focuses on the life, philosophy, and journey of Confucius, featuring bas-reliefs, life-like statues, and displays of his teachings.
You can see displays of traditional Chinese clothing, ancient scripts, calligraphy, and crafts.
2. The Chinese Garden (Garden of Thousand-year-old Morality)
This is a key attraction, designed in a tranquil, classic Chinese style.
The garden features large ponds and fountains. Visitors can buy food to feed the many colorful koi fish (or dragon carp).
You can walk across bridges to two beautiful pavilions in the pond and admire the traditional Chinese architectural design of the buildings.
The area is decorated with various Chinese auspicious plants like black bamboo and weeping willow.
3. The Shrine and Golden Dragon
The complex houses the magnificent 99-meter-long golden dragon used in the annual dragon dance show during the Thung Si Mueang Fair in December.
There is a tea shop where you can sample and purchase an excellent variety of Chinese teas.
FLY TO RANONG VIA DON MUEANG AIRPORT (DMK)
RANONG 5N MAP
Ranong is the wettest place in Thailand but the dry season is from November to April
HISTORY
Ranong's history is deeply intertwined with its geography and tin mining. Originally a small frontier town protecting Chumphon during the Ayutthaya Kingdom, its importance exploded with the discovery of rich tin deposits. This sparked a tin rush in the 19th century, drawing large numbers of Hokkian Chinese and Burmese immigrants, whose cultural influence remains strong, particularly in the Sino-Portuguese architecture and local cuisine.
A pivotal figure was Khaw Soo Cheang (Phraya Damrongsucharit), a wealthy Chinese merchant who became the influential first governor of Ranong in the mid-1800s, consolidating the tin industry and growing the region's economy. King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) later elevated Ranong to full provincial status in 1877 and visited in 1890, commemorated by the Rattana Rangsan Palace replica.
Ranong’s location on the narrow Kra Isthmus also made it a strategic border and trading hub with Myanmar (then Burma). While tin deposits eventually dwindled, today Ranong remains a major port and is known for its hot springs and pristine natural areas, transitioning its focus to fishing and eco-tourism.
GETTING AROUND
Hire a scooter - or you have tuk tuks, songthaews and motorcycle taxis.
STAY – MAP
The Farm House Hotel Ranong *** 8.9 –
Great central location close to Walking Street and restaurants, outdoor pool, restaurant, bar, free parking, fitness centre, incl Good Breakfast, bicycle rental, Happy Hour, Coffee House, 24 hour desk, safety box, packed lunches
Sook Hotel *** 9.0 – 750b E/B
Excellent central location close to Walking Street and restaurants, saltwater swimming pool, sun terrace, lush garden, hot tub, outdoor seating areas, 24 hour desk, free parking, Incl Good Breakfast, safety box,
The B Ranong Trend Hotel ***½ 8.0 -
Excellent central location close to Walking Street and restaurants, indoor and outdoor pools, spa and wellness centre, restaurant , bar, 24 hour desk, Coffee House, safety box,
Good location 10 minutes walk to the action, saltwater pool, terrace, fitness centre, restaurant, bar, Coffee Shop, free parking, bidet, safety box
EAT - MAP
Ranong's cuisine is a unique culinary experience thanks to its position as a cultural melting pot with strong influences from Southern Thailand, Myanmar, Malaysia, and Chinese cuisines (particularly Hokkien-Chinese).
Given its coastal location, fresh seafood is a major component of the diet.
Kraburi River Prawn Tom Yum - A spicy and sour soup featuring the local river prawns.
The blending of Chinese and Malay cultures (Peranakan) is evident in dishes like -
Yao Ye (Spicy Water Spinach Salad) a healthy and vibrant local salad of Hokkien-Chinese origin. Blanched water spinach with quick-boiled shrimp, squid, sliced fried dough stick, dried shrimp tempura, and topped with a special salty, sour, sweet, and spicy sauce.
Chun Piah (Chinese Spring Rolls) similar to Hoi Cho (deep-fried crab meat roll) but is made with a savory filling (often minced pork, liver, and crab meat) wrapped in a soft bean curd sheet and deep-fried until crispy.
Local dim sum restaurants like Ranong O-Cha are very popular for breakfast offering a wide variety of fresh handpicked dumplings and steamed buns. This famous breakfast restaurant is located near the old market and is a major local institution.
Expect the rich, spicier flavors of Southern Thailand heavily reliant on local spices and shrimp paste.
Khao Mok Gai (Chicken Biryani) a Halal dish with a distinct Southern and Muslim-Thai influence featuring spiced yellow rice and chicken often heavily flavored with turmeric.
Khanom Jeen (fermented rice noodles) served with a variety of rich, complex curries accompanied by a selection of fresh and pickled vegetables and herbs.
Cashew Nuts (Kayu) - Ranong is famous for its sweet and crunchy cashew nuts (Kayu Wan). Kayu's roots and stems are also used to make medicine. Young shoots can be used as vegetables to eat with chili paste, red curry, and orange curry.
Yam Yot Kayu (Spicy Young Cashew Leaves Salad) is a traditional dish utilizing young cashew leaves, which are balanced with the savory local shrimp paste (Kapi) and dried shrimp.
Namphrik Kala is a local herbal chili paste with a turmeric aroma.
Pak Liang is a leafy green vegetable that is a regional specialty, often stir-fried with egg or garlic, or incorporated into other dishes.
Kapi (Shrimp Paste) - Ranong is famous for producing high-quality shrimp paste and sun-dried shrimp.
The Old Market is a great place to experience the local food scene. It has a dedicated food court that serves all of the Thai favourites like Chicken Rice, Noodle Soup, Braised Pork, local curries and other treats. It is an excellent place to find cheap, authentic and fast local meals.
The Muslim-Thai influence means you can find excellent roti (flatbread) served with curries (like duck curry or beef soup) and sweet versions for breakfast or dessert.
Restaurants along the coast or featuring fresh catches of the day are great for trying the local seafood specialties.
Khao Moo (stewed pork hock) - A classic Southern Thai dish features tender, slow-cooked pork hock with a rich, flavorful broth. The pork is slow-braised for hours in a mild, sweet, and savory broth seasoned heavily with Chinese spices like star anise, cinnamon, and five-spice powder. It is served over rice.
Moo Hong (stewed pork belly) is a rich and savory Southern Thai dish. The pork is slow-braised in a thick, rich, and highly aromatic gravy that starts with a paste made from coriander roots, garlic, and black peppercorns, then seasoned with palm sugar, soy sauces, and sometimes oyster sauce. It is served as a dish as part of a family meal.
Fried Small Shrimp with Mango Salad - A refreshing and flavorful dish featuring small, fresh shrimp fried and served with a tangy mango salad, often including cashew nuts.
Khao Yam - a famous southern Thai rice salad. A vibrant and flavorful dish with a mix of herbs, vegetables, and a dressing made from fermented fish sauce.
The curries in Ranong are known for their bold flavors and often a spicier kick. Try local favorites like a rich and aromatic fish curry.
Ranong's cafe and coffee scene - MAP
is vibrant, creative and deeply influenced by its unique location, history, and natural resources. It offers a wonderful blend of cozy specialty coffee shops and destination cafes set in nature.
It has a cozy, charming atmosphere featuring a selection of different premium coffee beans from various roasters.
Located near the bus terminal it is popular and offers a modern, clean environment for a quick coffee fix, some breakfast or a light meal.
Is famous for its picturesque setting right next to a serene stream. The atmosphere is tranquil, resembling a garden or jungle oasis. Visitors often come for the unique natural ambiance, offering a relaxing escape from the town center.
This spot has a blend of modern design and natural serenity. It features an elegant interior with large windows that seamlessly connect to inviting outdoor seating areas. It's known for well-brewed coffee and fresh pastries in a stylish, calming setting.
Where to eat
Chill Chill - for brunch
Offers a wide selection of dim sum and Hokkien-style bukutei soup broth. It's affordable, clean and friendly.
Hong Kong Roasted Duck - (Pèt Yàang Hô̜ng-kong) -
Is a well-regarded local eatery known for its Cantonese-style roasted meats. Specialties are Roasted Duck, Crispy Pork (Moo Krob), and "Two-Delights Rice" (ข้าว 2 เกลอ) which is a combination of duck and crispy pork.
7.30 am - 3 pm
J&T Chinese Restaurant - 450 baht crab omelette -
Is a highly-rated, long-established local gem, famous not just for Chinese food but for a unique blend of Hokkien Chinese and local Southern Thai (Peranakan or "Baba-Yaya") cuisine, similar to the style found in Phuket and Phang Nga.
It is considered a "must-visit" spot for authentic local food in Ranong.
Crab Meat Omelette - A local favorite, noted for being generously "full of crab meat.
Yum Gayoo Leaf - A unique local herb salad that customers love.
Monday to Sunday, 10:30 AM–9:00 PM
Raan Pang Ki Roti Arab (บังกี โรตีอาหรับ) -
Is a famous Halal restaurant specializing in roti and Southern Thai/Muslim cuisine.
1. Arab Roti (โรตีอาหรับ) -
This is the signature item and the heart of the restaurant. The roti has a unique texture and aroma due to the traditional recipe used by the owner. You can have it with sweet or savoury accompaniments.
2. Goat/Mutton Curry (แกงแพะ) -
A rich, flavorful curry that pairs well with the roti.
3. Roti Mataba (โรตีมะตะบะ) -
A crispy, stuffed roti with fillings like seasoned minced chicken (Mataba Gai) or beef and potato.
4. Roti Burger & Roti Pizza -
Creative, fusion menu items where the roti is used in place of bread or pizza crust.
Beef Soup (ซุปเนื้อ): A flavorful, often salty, sour, and spicy soup that is very popular.
Biryani/Yellow Rice (ข้าวหมก) - Chicken Biryani (Khao Mok Gai) or Goat Biryani (Khao Mok Pae).
Fried Chicken (ไก่ทอด): Crispy and full of flavour with rice and curry.
6.30 am - 4 pm - Closed Mondays
Farmhouse -
For good food and live music in the evenings. You can also come here for a hearty Local Breakfast Buffet and Brunch.
7 am - 11 pm
Night Markets
The market takes over a section of Ruangrat Road, which is the historic main street in Ranong's Old Town.
The street is a major culinary highlight, offering a vast array of affordable Thai street food and local delicacies. You can find local Southern Thai food, traditional snacks, grilled meats, fresh seafood, and unique regional desserts and candies that are hard to find elsewhere.
There are often performances from various local groups and clubs, including live music and dances by both children and adults, adding a lot of color and energy to the event.
Every Saturday evening 5 pm to 10 pm
Walking street is closed during the rainy season, roughly May to October.
Talad Tha Muang - Temporarily closed
This place is 700m west of the evening market on Thamuang Road. It is like a food court and is a good place to sit down and have a meal. Plus you can get a beer here. It's good value and the food is great. Don't miss the Mango Sticky Rice.
SEE & DO - MAP
The Raksa Warin Hot Spring in Ranong is one of Thailand's most famous and pure natural hot spring areas.
Purity - The spring water is renowned as the purest natural hot water source in Thailand because it contains no sulfur additives. This lack of sulfur means the water has no strong smell and is clean enough to be used as drinking water, and was historically used in sacred ceremonies.
The Three Main Pools (Bo)
Bo Pho (Father Pool)
Bo Mae (Mother Pool)
Bo Luk Sao (Daughter Pool)
The Raksa Warin area is designed for public use, with both free and paid options.
There are public areas along the stream where you can soak your feet in the mineral water.
Regulated Bathing Pools (Paid) - Separate, managed bathing facilities where the mineral water is mixed with normal water to lower the temperature to a comfortable 40 – 50°C.
Hot Slab Area (Free) - A cement courtyard with a roof where hot steam from the mineral water is piped underneath the floor.
You could splurge and visit one of the nearby wellness centres like Namnong Hot Spa and indulge in a traditional Thai massage, sauna rooms, hot steam rooms, hot and cold jacuzzi rooms.
The hot springs are set within Raksa Warin Park, which includes a river where you can cool off after a hot soak.
This is the most healing hot spring in all of Thailand and apparently the third most healing in the world!
Situated 2 kilometers east of Ranong town in Raksa Warin Park.
Phonrang Hot Spring - ♨️
It is located in the beautiful, lush surroundings of Namtok Ngao National Park 6 km south of Ranong. It is a true hidden gem.
Phonrang Hot Spring offers a very different and more nature-immersive experience compared to Raksa Warin Hot Spring.
The area features up to 13 natural hot springs that bubble up from the ground and collect in various basins.
The mineral water temperature is generally cooler than Raksa Warin, ranging from about 35 to 40 degrees Celsius, making it very comfortable for soaking.
Like Raksa Warin the water at Phonrang is clean, clear, and has no smell of sulfur or "rotten egg gas."
Phonrang is set deep in a tranquil, jungle environment, offering a very relaxing and rejuvenating escape.
There are multiple pools of varying temperatures, allowing visitors to choose their preferred level of heat, from warm to very hot (up to around 41°C).
The hot springs are complemented by a cool river/stream that runs through the area, allowing visitors to alternate between hot soaking and refreshing cold dips.
The cooler stream features small fish that will nibble on the dead skin of your feet, providing a natural Dr. Fish Spa exfoliation treatment.
The area is clean and well-maintained with good amenities, including outdoor showers, restrooms, a rest pavilion, and a car park. There is also a small cafe for food and drinks.
The National Park ticket should give you entry to both the hot springs and the waterfall below. It is around 7 kms further south.
6.30 am - 4.30 pm - (8.30 on weekends)
Ngao Waterfall National Park -
Is a major natural attraction and the centerpiece of Namtok Ngao National Park.
The waterfall is one of the most recognizable landmarks in Ranong. It drops several hundred feet from a massive cliff face, making it clearly visible from the main highway from a great distance.
The waterfall is most spectacular during the long rainy season in Ranong, which typically runs from May to October/November, when the water volume is at its fullest.
The park is the only known habitat in Thailand for the rare Poo Chao Fah (Princess Crab), an unusual freshwater crab with a distinctive white body and purple mouth/claws.
The park is characterized by moist evergreen forest with valuable flora including orchids that typically bloom from October to December. It's also an excellent spot for birdwatching.
8.30 am - 4.30 pm everyday
Is a picturesque and tranquil natural attraction offering a unique landscape and a popular spot for local relaxation.
Unique Color - The pool of clear water, surrounded by rocky cliffs of white stone creates a striking appearance, with the water a beautiful bluish-green or emerald color.
The water is home to a large population of fish, including carp and tilapia, and visitors love to buy food from local vendors to feed them.
The site features a large, well-maintained grassy field around the water's edge with various shaded areas and small gazebos, making it ideal for relaxing and picnicking.
Paddle boats or small rowboats are available for rent.
The peaceful, natural environment attracts local bird life, making it a good spot for observation.
Along the way you could stop off at Wat Hat Som Paen and Had Som Paen Reservoir for a look.
The Ngao Mangrove Forest Research Centre -
Is one of Ranong's most significant natural and ecological attractions. It serves as a vital hub for research, conservation, and eco-tourism.
UNESCO Biosphere Reserve Status - It is home to the largest single expanse of mangrove forest in Thailand. It contains one of the most pristine and biodiverse mangrove ecosystems in the Asia-Pacific region, with over 20 unique plant species and 24 species of mangroves identified.
The main attraction is a well-maintained 2 km elevated wooden or concrete boardwalk that winds deep into the heart of the mangrove forest. Educational signs are placed along the route to explain the different plant species, the ecosystem, and the importance of mangroves.
Giant Mangrove Trees - The forest is home to some exceptionally old trees, including a reported 300-year-old giant black mangrove (Tapoondum Yak Tree), which is a key highlight.
The mangroves act as a nursery for marine life and a habitat for terrestrial animals. Visitors can often spot -
Marine: Fiddler crabs, mudskippers, and various fish.
Mammals: Long-tailed macaques and otters.
Bird Life: It's an excellent spot for bird-watching, with species like the mangrove pitta and various kingfishers.
Local boat rides are available through the intricate waterways to experience the forest and surrounding locales like Tum Hong Canal and nearby fishing villages.
Wear comfortable shoes
Bring insect repellent.
Be cautious of the monkeys and avoid feeding them or carrying food or drinks openly.
At the time of writing they were temporarily closed and opening hours could not be ascertained.
Rattanarangsan Palace (Throne Hall) -
Is one of the most significant landmarks in Ranong. It's a beautiful, elegant teakwood structure that serves as a memorial to the Thai monarchy and a museum for local history. It is one of Thailand’s 19 royal palaces, and one of just six built outside the capital!
The original wooden palace was built to accommodate King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) during his royal visit to Ranong Province in 1890.
The original structure was dismantled. The current, elaborate two-story building was meticulously reconstructed using beautiful teak and golden ironwood to commemorate the visits of three Chakri Kings to Ranong -
King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) in 1890
King Vajiravudh (Rama VI) in 1909
King Prajadhipok (Rama VII) in 1928
Inside the Palace you can view the reconstructed royal chambers including King Rama V's bedroom and the Queen's rooms, along with historical exhibits and photographs.
9 am - 4 pm - Closed Monday / Tuesday
The 100 Years Thein Suek House aka Baan Thein Suek -
The house was constructed in the early 20th century around 1916 during the reign of King Rama V (King Chulalongkorn). This was a period of great wealth and development in Ranong due to the booming tin mining industry.
The residence was originally established by Thein Suek, a prominent Chinese businessman and community leader whose family played a major role in the local economy.
The house is a beautiful example of the architectural style that characterized Southern Thailand's wealthy communities.
Today the house operates as a captivating museum dedicated to preserving and showcasing Ranong's history and heritage.
Visitors can step back in time to experience the lifestyle of the local Thai-Chinese community over the last century.
The house is surrounded by gardens, creating a serene and peaceful retreat that allows visitors to relax and soak in the historical ambiance.
9 am - 4 pm everyday
GOLF
Rattanarangsan Camp Golf Course -
An 18-hole, par 72 course that is a military-run course and is open to visitors. It is often listed in directories as the main or only course in the Ranong province itself. 25 kms south of town by the airport.
Thanon Phetkasem Road 85000 Ratchakrut, Ranong Thailand
Phone +66 93 637 8162
SUN - MAP
Royal Andaman Ranong Historical Cruise - Sunset and Dinner
Re-enact the journey of King Rama V over 100 years ago. A tour of historic dimensions as you explore the coastline and islands around Ranong and some local customs. Sunset and dinner included. Meet at the Ranong Lighthouse.
4 pm - 8 pm
The Khao Niwet Viewpoint & Skywalk aka Skywalk Niwet Kiri -
Is one of Ranong's newest and most distinctive landmarks, offering a panoramic perspective of the city and its natural surroundings.
Visitors can take the walkway or stairs to reach the top.
An elevator is available for the elderly (60+) and people with disabilities.
Open daily from 6 am - 8 pm and it's free-ish.
A small fee is charged for the rental of the plastic slip-on slippers or the purchase of socks to protect the walking surface.
Food, drinks and pets are not permitted on the skywalk.
Is widely celebrated for offering one of the most spectacular sunset views in the province, making it a highly recommended spot for sundowners.
The restaurant is located right by the waterfront on the route to the deep-sea port. On a clear day, you can see nearby Kawthoung (Victoria Point) in Myanmar across the bay.
Khao Fa Chi View Point - Cafe
30 mins – can ride bike all the way up - this is one of the best places to catch a sunset in the region.
It offers panoramic vistas with both historical and natural importance. The landscape is a beautiful mix of small islands, winding waterways, and endless green forest. It’s a strong reminder of how lush and unspoiled Ranong’s nature truly is.
Sunrise/Morning Mist - During the late rainy season and winter (roughly November to March), you can often witness a "sea of mist" (fog) swirling over the valleys and mountains in the early morning, creating a picturesque and tranquil scene.
World War II Site - Khao Fa Chi was an important strategic location during World War II.
Japanese Military Base - The area around the hill was used by Japanese soldiers as a military camp and port for sending support and supplies to Burma (now Myanmar). Historical remnants may still be found in the area.
Rocky Secret Rooftop Bar -
350 m south of the Farmhouse Restaurant on Ruangrat Road on the RHS as you are walking down.
DRINK - MAP
The majority of the action, including bars, pubs and restaurants, is concentrated in the area around north Ruangrat Road and the main city centre.
BARS, PUBS & CLUBS
MVP (aka Ploen) -
This is the city's main nightlife hub and the closest thing to a modern club. It's known for its high energy, alternating live bands and DJs, and a lively crowd of young locals. If you are looking for dancing and a loud atmosphere, this is the place. Expect it to be busy from around 9.30 pm.
Safe Zone@Ranong -
A popular venue for live Thai music. It's considered a premier spot for local bands and offers a vibrant, welcoming atmosphere to experience the local music scene.
The B Bistro restaurant and bar -
Is suitable for both dining and socializing. A major draw is the live Thai pop music performances. It is in a lively area with easy access to other night activities like walking street.
Another venue known specifically for its live performances and a lively atmosphere.
Live music just north of Walking Street on the LHS.
Bargu -
Authentic, cheap, great food, bar, live music
Most places close at midnight on weeknights and the larger live music pubs (like MVP) and late-night spots will often stay open later, sometimes until 1am or 2 am on weekends especially if business is good.
MYANMAR
Check your visa requirements first. If you have already entered Thailand by land twice this year don't go. Check that the border is open and is safe. If it all gets too hard just skip this part of the trip and head over to Koh Chang Noi.
Port Victoria (Kawthoung) 4N – MAP
Kawthaung is the southernmost town in Myanmar, historically known as Victoria Point.
GETTING THERE
1. From Ranong to Kawthaung - The crossing is done by a longtail boat. You can find these at the Saphan Pla Pier in Ranong. The boat ride takes about 25 minutes.
2. Immigration in Ranong - Before you board the boat, you'll need to go to the Thai immigration office at the Saphan Pla Pier to get your passport stamped out of Thailand.
3. Immigration in Kawthaung - Upon arrival at the main jetty in Kawthaung, you will go to the Myanmar immigration office to complete your entry formalities.
Visa and Stay Requirements
Tourist Visa - For most nationalities, a Myanmar tourist e-visa is the most common way to enter.
Important Documents - When applying for the e-visa, you will need to upload a photo and a copy of your passport's bio-data page. You may also need to show proof of a hotel booking and an onward travel plan, especially if entering by land.
GETTING AROUND
It's common to find motorbikes for rent through local guesthouses, hotels, or small, independent shops. A lot of the time, the easiest way to secure one is by simply asking at your accommodation – parking at the hotel
The most common and convenient way to navigate the city of Kawthoung is by Motorcycle Taxi. These are readily available and the primary mode of transport for short distances within the town.
Kawthoung is a small town, so many of the central sites like the Pyi Daw Aye Pagoda and the waterfront can be explored on foot.
Shared Minibusses are an option for slightly longer trips or to reach attractions just outside the main town area.
STAY
Victoria Cliff Hotel & Resort **** 10 -
Stunning cliffside location with spectacular sea and sunset views, private beach, 2 x swimming pools including incredible rooftop infinity pool with bar, the Clifftop Bar, 2 x restaurants - including the Ocean View Victoria Restaurant, spa and wellness centre, fitness centre, sun terrace, lush garden, outdoor fireplace, brunch, lunch, dinner, high tea, and cocktails in traditional, modern, and romantic settings, breakfast included, free parking, walking tours, It is a 5 min walk to an ATM and several restaurants
Victoria Cliff Hotel & Resort
Ocean View Wing - could be a lot cheaper with Agoda
Free breakfast
Ocean view
Free self parking
Can get extra beds
Penguin Hotel - A popular choice for backpackers and those on a budget. It's centrally located near the waterfront, offering basic but clean rooms.
Mingalar Boutique Hotel & Restaurant - Offers a comfortable stay with a rooftop deck providing city and sea views. Good value and a pleasant atmosphere.
DO
Late morning on the waterfront. Immerse yourself in the local atmosphere, then stroll along the Kawthaung Port, observing the bustling activity of cargo ships, fishing vessels, and longtail boats.
A prominent pagoda known for its architecture and spiritual significance. It also offers nice views.
This is the landmark of Kawthaung and offers panoramic views of the Andaman Sea and surrounding islands. You'll find the Statue of King Bayinnaung here, a historic icon. Don't miss the 555 Hill viewpoint for astounding bird's-eye views.
Kawthoung is the main gateway to the pristine Mergui Archipelago. This is a must-do activity.
Nyaung Oo Phee Island - A popular choice for a day trip, known for its clear waters, and excellent snorkeling opportunities. Many tours include lunch on the island.
Cock's Comb Island (Emerald Heart Lagoon) - Famous for its unique heart-shaped lagoon accessible by swimming through a cave. It's a highlight for snorkeling and photography.
115 Island / Horse Shoe Island / Zedetkyikyun Island - Other beautiful islands known for their crystal-clear waters, vibrant coral reefs, and abundant marine life perfect for snorkeling and swimming.
Most island tours include lunch, often a buffet served on the island or on the boat.
Maliwan Waterfall & Hot Springs -
Is a beautiful natural attraction 40 km north which you can reach by motorbike, rental car, Tuk Tuk, or through local tour services from Kawthaung.
The waterfall is a popular spot, especially for local people on weekends.
Visitors can enjoy activities like swimming, kayaking, and diving at the waterfall.
Maliwan Hot Springs (Aung Thapyay Hot Spring)
The natural hot spring is a rejuvenating spot close to the waterfall, also known as Aung Thapyay Hot Spring.
You can experience three different temperature levels in the springs: approximately 40°C, 45°C, and 55°C.
The area offers bathing and soaking services, including a private bathroom option with water directly channeled from the hot springs. Some areas also offer a foot spa where you can soak your legs.
There are restaurants nearby that offer a variety of cuisines, including Thai, Indian, Chinese, and Burmese foods.
The Maliwan area provides a great day trip for nature lovers visiting Kawthaung, offering a combination of cool waterfall plunges and relaxing hot spring soaks.
The Southernmost Point Of Continental Myanmar - aka Victoria Point
Standing at the statue of King Bayinnaung is the unique experience of being at the absolute southernmost point of the entire country.
GOLF
18 hole course located 10 minutes away from the hotel. Generally courses are cheaper here than Thailand.
EAT
Kawthaung's cuisine is influenced by Burmese, Thai, Chinese, and Malay flavors, with a strong emphasis on fresh seafood.
Seafood - being a coastal town, fresh seafood is a must-try. Look for local seafood restaurants near the port.
Burmese Curries, Noodles, and Salads - you'll find plenty of local eateries serving these staples.
Mohinga - the National Dish of Myanmar, a traditional fish noodle soup, often served for breakfast. Many local tea shops will offer it.
Tea leaf salad is called Lahpet Thoke and is a must try. It is considered a national delicacy and is a unique, complex, and highly addictive dish due to its incredible blend of flavors and textures.
Street Food at the Market - the bustling Kawthaung Market is a great place to sample various local snacks and dishes.
Mark Restaurant - a good spot for both food and a beer in the evening, popular with travellers.
Tea Shops - look for local tea shops like "New Day Tea Shop" for tea, coffee, and light snacks. The tea is addictive and one cup is never enough. Paired with some spring rolls or samosas it makes for a perfect smoko.
SUN
The Cliff Lounge – bar with a view at the Hotel
5-5-5 Mountain is highly recommended for its breathtaking 270-degree views of the Mergui Archipelago and stunning sunsets. There are restaurants like Mingala Restaurant located halfway up the mountain that offer food and cocktails with this view.
DRINK
Beer Stations and Restaurants - a common and popular way to spend an evening is at a "beer station" or an open-air restaurant. These spots are social hubs where locals gather to eat, drink, and chat. They typically serve local draft beers and simple Asian food.
The Kawthoung Night Market is a good place to find local food and experience a lively atmosphere after dark.
THAILAND
1.Go to the Myanmar immigration office at the jetty in Kawthaung to get your passport stamped out of the country.
2. Take a longtail boat back to the Saphan Pla Pier in Ranong.
3. At the pier in Ranong, you will proceed to the Thai immigration counter.
They will check your passport's previous stamps to see how many times you have entered Thailand on a visa exemption, particularly by land/sea.
For Australians, they should grant you a new 60-day visa-exempt stamp, provided you have not exceeded the two-per-year land border crossing limit. - For other nationalities check with the Thai Embassy.
See if you can get a boat from the same pier you arrive at. A long-tailed boat takes 1½ hours and a speedboat takes 30 minutes and costs roughly double. Boats typically depart Ranong Pier around 9 am, 11 am and 2 pm. Speedboats 8.30 am, 10 am & 1 pm.
Arrival on the Island - the boat will drop you off at the main pier on Ko Chang Noi. Due to the tides, you may occasionally be dropped off at a different point, and you may need to wade through shallow water to get to the shore.
· On-Island Transportation - Ko Chang Noi does not have roads for cars, so the primary way to get to your hotel is by motorbike or motorbike taxi. You can hire one at the pier to take you to your accommodation. Some hotels may also offer a pre-arranged pickup service, so it's a good idea to contact them beforehand.
Or you may be able to inform the captain of your preferred drop-off point. If you’re uncertain simply disembark at the main beach and explore the island.
There’s a good chance of getting wet upon arrival.
If you decide not to stay at the initially chosen hotel, there are regular water taxis to the four corners of the island.
🏝️ KO CHANG NOI 7N -️ MAP
Known as the "unknown elephant island" as opposed to its larger namesake, Ko Chang on the Eastern Seaboard. Unlike that island (one of my favourites) this one has minimal development, no large resorts, and a very relaxed, quiet vibe. Described as a hidden gem where you can experience the old Thailand it is known for its tranquility, simplicity, and untouched natural beauty.
The island measures about 18 square kilometers and offers a rustic, slow-life experience, appealing to nature lovers and those looking to completely disconnect.
The beaches, such as Ao Yai (Long Beach) and Ao Daeng, are long, wide, and lined with cashew and coconut trees. The sand is a distinct dark hue due to the island's volcanic origin, not the typical white sand of other Thai islands.
The interior is lush, covered by jungle, cashew, and rubber plantations. The island is a sanctuary for diverse flora and bird species, most famously the Hornbill bird.
The island is one of Thailand's least developed. You won't find major chain stores, banks, or large resorts. Tourism is low-key, often attracting long-term visitors and retirees.
TIPS
The island is small enough to traverse on foot, there are motorcycle taxis or you can rent a motorbike. The island has simple concrete slabs and dirt tracks.
Bring plenty of cash, as there are no ATMs on the island. Electricity is often supplied by generators and may be limited to evening hours (e.g., 6 pm - 11 pm at some of the more basic bungalows.
Restaurants are mostly found within resorts or small cafes near Ao Yai village. There's a village shop for basic necessities.
Book your bungalows or basic resorts in advance, especially during peak season.
Insect Repellent - essential to bring, especially if you plan on hiking or spending evenings outdoors.
BEACHES -
Ao Yai Bay (The Main Beach)
This is the largest and most prominent stretch of sand on the west coast, spanning about 3–4 km.
Long Beach -
A stunning stretch of sand, the longest and most central part of Ao Yai. While it's the "busiest" beach on the island, it is still very quiet by most standards.
Perfect for relaxing, sunbathing, and swimming. It has a classic Thai island feel with white sands and palm trees.
This is where you will find the most amenities on the island, including a scattering of simple beach bungalows, a few low-key beach bars, and a handful of small restaurants, cafes and a mini-mart.
Ao Daeng -
A lovely secluded cove that is highly praised for being a quiet, off-the-beaten-path beach.
Ao Lek -
Remote and a bit rocky, this cove has a very chill, reggae-inspired vibe.
Ao Ko Kiang -
Located on the northwest coast, this is one of the least visited beaches on the island and is a good spot for kayaking.
STAY - Popular spots are found around Ao Yai Beach
Full Moon Bungalow Resort 8.1 (Ao Yai) - Pay at Property
Great beachfront location with stunning sea-views, lush garden, terrace, restaurant, bar, best cook on the island!
Mama’s Bungalows 9.3 (Ao Daeng) -
Excellent location on the beach with all bungalows having great sea-views, restaurant
Sunset Bungalows 8.6 (Long Beach - Ao Yai) -
Excellent beachfront location, sun terrace, lush garden, restaurant, bar, outdoor dining with sea views, tour desk, bike hire
Lae Tawan Bungalows 8.5 (Ao Deng) -
Excellent location on the beachfront, restaurant, bar, run by a lovely family, sun terrace, outdoor fireplace picnic areas, public bath, full day security
DO
Lay in a hammock, enjoy the sunset, and simply disconnect.
Walk the long stretches of beach, like Ao Yai, or discover more secluded coves like Ao Daeng.
Explore the island on foot, hike through the rubber and cashew plantations, and birdwatch for hornbills.
Visit the small Moken (Sea Gypsy) Village and the simple Wat Pa Ko Chang (Buddhist Temple).
Rent a kayak or paddleboard to explore the coastline.
EAT
Most of your dining on Ko Chang Noi will likely be at the resort restaurants which offer good quality and varied menus.
Crossroad Restaurant - for Western dishes like pizza, pasta, and ice cream. It is also a popular spot for getting a freshly brewed cup of coffee.
Deanna's Bakery - located near the Koh Chang Resort, this is the perfect place for breakfast. They serve fresh loaves of bread, cakes, and other delicious baked treats.
SUN
Any west facing beach bar or restaurant. And they are spectacular!
DRINK - It gets very dark so don't forget your torch🔦
Thai Bar - located in the central Ao Yai area, this is a very relaxed spot. It occasionally features live music and is a great place to hang out, play some foosball, and enjoy a beer.
Freedom Bar - situated close to Thai Bar, this is another quiet and friendly spot, run by a welcoming local.
Crocodile Rock - while also a restaurant, the outdoor decking is an excellent place to grab a cocktail or two with superb sea views, making it a perfect spot for sunset drinks.
Tsunami Bar - located at the south end of Ao Yai beach, this is one of the two reggae-style bars on the island.
Bar La - this is the other reggae-style bar, situated at the north end of Ao Yai beach.
From Koh Chang Noi to Koh Phayam
Travel from Koh Chang Noi to Koh Phayam is possible with one or two departures available each day. Check on the latest information on whether you need to go back to Ranong or not.
KO PHAYAM 7N – MAP - best surf in Thailand 🏄♂️
More developed than it's neighbour but still a long way off from the regular tourist traps. Ko Phayam is a beautiful, lightly-developed island described as reminiscent of popular Thai islands before the era of mass tourism.
The island has preserved much of its natural charm and tranquil, laid-back atmosphere. It is free of large resorts, chains (no 7-Eleven or ATMs), and cars. Transportation is mainly by motorbike or motorbike taxi.
It is a lush, green island covered with coconut and cashew plantations. Its coastline is fringed with sandy beaches and features a central hilly region. The island is part of the Mu Ko Phayam National Park, established in 2003 to protect its natural ecosystems and surrounding coral reefs.
The island has a rich history tied to the Moken people, also known as sea gypsies who originally inhabited the island and lived a nomadic, seafaring lifestyle. The community has faced adversity, notably after the 2004 tsunami, when many families lost fishing equipment, and their ancestral homes were displaced. The Moken village is a cultural attraction on the island.
The two major bays are
Ao Yai (Big Bay) - the longest and busiest beach on the west coast, known for its sunset views and consistent waves, making it the hub for surfing.
Ao Kao Kwai (Buffalo Bay) - situated in the northwest this quiet beach is known for its stunning beauty with a sandy beach that curves inward like a buffalo's horn. Its calm waters are ideal for swimming and kayaking through the nearby mangrove forest.
Bioluminescence
Ko Phayam is one of the spots in Thailand where you can witness the magical natural phenomenon of bioluminescence, caused by vast numbers of light-emitting plankton called dinoflagellates, often referred to as "sea sparkles."
Bioluminescence can be observed on Ao Yai (Long Beach) after sunset.
The tiny plankton emit a brilliant bluish-green light when disturbed by movement, such as waves breaking on the shore, swimming, or running your hands through the water.
The phenomenon can occur year-round.
It is best seen when the sky is darkest, which is during the time just before, during, and just after the new moon phase, as moonlight can obscure the faint glow.
Surfing
The primary surfing spot is Ao Yai (Big Bay), which faces the southwest and is open to the swell from the Andaman Sea.
The waves are generally smaller and less powerful than world-class destinations, making it ideal for beginners and intermediates.
The waves break over a gentle, safe sand bottom.
Intermediates may enjoy swells occasionally reaching up to 5 - 6 feet.The surfable season is long but the best times for consistent, cleaner waves are generally from October through December and April through May.
You can rent surfboards, stand-up paddleboards, and bodyboards from surf shops like Phayam Surfers, located directly on Ao Yai beach.
Ao Kao Kwai (Buffalo Bay), with its calm and shallow waters, can be suitable for kite surfing, especially for beginners when the wind conditions are favorable.
Stargazing
Ko Phayam is an excellent location for stargazing due to its relative lack of light pollution compared to more developed tourist destinations.
Low Light Pollution - since the island has no central electricity grid (relying on solar power and generators) and few cars or major developments, it maintains very dark skies at night.
STAY -
Ao Yai - Surf (Liveliest area but still chill & best sunsets)
*Bamboo Bungalows *** 8.4 - 300b for an extra bed
Excellent beach front location with stunning sea-views, open air bathrooms, sun terrace, lush gardens, bidet, work desk, restaurant, bar, free parking
JJ Beach Resort & JJ Seafood 9.1 - Delux Villa with rooftop terrace
Excellent beach-front location, restaurant, bar, sun terrace, themed dinner nights, pub crawls, cycling, free parking, mini-mart, spa and wellness centre, 200b for extra bed
Excellent beach-front location, lush garden, bidet, restaurant, bar, buffet breakfast included, coffee shop, outdoor seating area,
Ao Khao Kwai - Kayak (Quieter but some bars)
Excellent beach-front location, massage, open-air bathroom, restaurant, breakfast included
Excellent beach-front location, restaurant, bar, free parking, ticket service, motorbike hire
Excellent beach-front location a little more out of the way and secluded than the others, "a toilet with a view" 🪟🚽, private beach area, garden terrace, restaurant, outdoor dining areas, bar
TIPS
At the time of writing there are 2 x atm's on the island so bring lots of cash.
It is a small island but not small enough to walk around. Hire a motorbike and explore. You can get one at the pier when you arrive.
Or you could get a long tailed boat to your resort
There are also motorcycle taxis
There are no cars and the narrow roads should be transversed slowly. You're on island time and there's no hurry.
There are no 7/11's
DO
Surfing -
Primarily Ao Yai (Long Beach). The bay's orientation to the swell makes it one of the very few places in Thailand where you can consistently surf.
Conditions: The waves are generally gentle, making it an excellent spot for beginners and intermediates using longboards, soft tops, or bodyboards.
Season: The best time for surfing is during the two peak wave seasons: October through December and April through May.
Rentals/Lessons: Surfboard, bodyboard, and stand-up paddleboard (SUP) rentals are readily available directly on Ao Yai beach, often near the resorts and surf shops like Phayam Surfers.
Visiting a cashew nut planation -
The interior roads of the island are lined with large rubber and cashew plantations.
You can see the unique way the cashew nut grows out of the "cashew apple" fruit.
Ko Phayam's cashews are famous. You can buy freshly roasted cashew nuts from small shops and vendors across the island. The Cashew Nut Festival is held around March when the fruit is in season.
Visit the Moken fishing village (Sea Gypsies) -
At the southern end of Ao Khao Kwai.
This is a small, traditional community of Moken (Sea Gypsy) people. You can walk through and observe their daily life, which often includes fishing and weaving handicrafts.
It is crucial to be respectful of their privacy and culture. Signs in the village generally request that tourists dress appropriately (no bikinis or minimal clothing). For a more meaningful experience, look for local NGOs like "All For Villages" or local guides who offer tours that support the community directly.
Wildlife Spotting and Bird Watching -
Ko Phayam is renowned for its population of Great Hornbills, which are relatively easy to find. They are a sign of Koh Phayam's well-preserved tropical forest. Hornbills are monogamous and mate for life. Known for their striking black and white plumage and the prominent, pale yellow casque on top of their massive bill.
The breeding pair typically seeks out a suitable natural tree cavity high up in a sturdy tree. The female will seal herself inside the cavity with a plaster made of saliva, mud, fruit, droppings, and bark before laying her eggs. She leaves only a narrow slit, which allows the male to pass food to her and the chicks during the nesting period.
Other Wildlife - Keep an eye out for sea eagles on the coastline and various species of monkeys (especially near Ao Kwang Peeb/Monkey Bay).
The island's narrow dirt tracks and jungle paths are great for short, self-guided jungle trekking or "jungle walks," particularly in the northern and southern areas.
Kayaking through the mangroves -
The mangrove forest is located at the southern end of Ao Khao Kwai (Buffalo Bay). You can rent a kayak and paddle deep into the lush, peaceful network of mangrove canals. This is a quiet, eco-friendly way to get up close with nature, spot wildlife, and enjoy a unique environment.
You must go at high tide. At low tide, the water recedes dramatically, leaving only mudflats that make kayaking impossible.
Snorkeling and Diving -
The organized boat trips from Ko Phayam primarily focus on snorkeling and diving at nearby pristine islands.
1. Surin Islands National Park -
This is the most famous and highly recommended trip. The Surin Islands are a pristine archipelago and home to some of the best shallow-water coral reefs in Thailand. Day trips are offered for world-class snorkeling and diving.
Due to the distance, these trips are exclusively done by speedboat and take around 1.5 hours each way. You'll visit multiple snorkeling spots with abundant fish and vibrant coral, and sometimes have the chance to visit the Moken Sea Gypsy village.
The total trip is a full day. These tours typically include national park entrance fees, snorkeling/diving equipment, lunch, soft drinks, and fresh fruit.
2. Mu Ko Kam Archipelago (Laem Son National Park) -
This is a closer and more budget-friendly option, visiting a stunning cluster of uninhabited islands to the south. Trips often visit Ko Kam Yai, Ko Kam Nui, and sometimes a stop at Koh Khang Kao (Bat Island).
Excellent snorkeling at coral reefs, swimming, and relaxing on beautiful, untouched white-sand beaches.
Travel time is much shorter (around 45 minutes to 1.5 hours depending on the exact destination). These tours are often run by local operators using slightly slower, smaller boats, but are a fantastic way to see deserted beaches.
3. Richelieu Rock (Diving Destination) -
For serious divers, some operators on Ko Phayam run trips to the famous Richelieu Rock, which is considered one of the top dive sites in the world. It is primarily for Scuba Diving but snorkelers can be accommodated.
Highlights - known for incredible biodiversity, including potential sightings of whale sharks and manta rays (in season).
Motorbike tour of the island -
The island is small enough that you can see most of the major sites in a single day, or take your time over a few days.
1. The East Coast -
Wat Ko Phayam
The Main Village - Located right near the pier, this is where you'll find the most shops, services, and places to rent your motorbike.
2. The North & West Coast -
Ao Khao Kwai (Buffalo Bay) - This is one of the island's most beautiful and iconic beaches, shaped like a crescent or buffalo horn.
See the famous Hin Talu (Pierced Rock), a naturally occurring rock formation with a hole through it.Near the southern end of the bay, you can find places offering kayak rentals to explore the nearby mangrove forests.
Ao Yai (Long Beach) - Located on the southwest coast, this is the longest and widest beach on the island, and generally considered the most active spot. Great for surf and sunsets.
Ao Kwang Peeb (Monkey Bay) - A more secluded "hidden gem" beach located in the extreme north of the island. It is a small, picturesque cove with clear water.
3. The Interior and Hillside -
Cashew Nut Plantations - As you ride through the interior of the island, you'll be passing through countless coconut and cashew nut plantations.
Wat Ko Phayam -
Is a unique Buddhist temple located on the east coast at the end of Ao Mae Mai (the main bay and port area), right where the pier is.
Its most distinctive feature is the Ubosot (ordination hall) built at the very end of a long, cement bridge that juts out into the sea. This makes it often referred to as the "Pier Temple."
The temple compound is serene and tranquil, nestled at the foot of a hill and surrounded by lush jungle. It features a majestic golden Buddha statue flanked by a three-headed naga (serpent).
EAT - MAP
Ko Phayam offers a wonderfully laid-back and authentic dining experience. Most restaurants are open-air, often part of resorts or charming beachfront bungalows.
Seafood is a major highlight, with several places focusing on sustainable, locally-caught fish and shellfish. Look for the Catch of the Day, large Seafood BBQ platters, and curries featuring fresh squid or snapper.
You will find excellent, authentic Thai food at almost every resort and local eatery.
Burmese Food
Given the island's close proximity to Myanmar (Burma), you can find authentic Burmese restaurants, particularly on the road toward Long Beach.
Ao Yai
Vegetarians should head to Baan Nam Cha (Tea House) for a spread of Burmese dishes like gyae toh (ginger and cabbage salad) and garam masala hae (coconut curry with pumpkin and potato) along with veggie dips and sandwiches on house-baked bread. They serve more than a dozen types of tea along with free-trade organic coffee and smoothies made with ingredients like peanut butter, ginger and caramel.
JJ Seafood Restaurant offers some of the best food on the popular Long Beach. It's the perfect place to end your day enjoying the spectacular sunset views over the Andaman Sea.
Green Beach Hut at the southern end of the bay do a pretty mean Lahpet Thoke or Burmese pickled tea leaf salad which is a national delicacy across the border.
Ao Khao Kwai
The Hippie Bar is famous for its unique, driftwood architecture and Rasta/reggae vibe. It also serves up decent Thai food and their Chicken Satay is highly recommended.
In the Town (Ao Mae Mai Pier Area)
Phayam Garden View is a good, affordable spot in the main area with dishes like Panang Curry and Pad Thai.
Koh Co Ice Cream is a popular spot for breakfast or a treat. Perfect for ice-cream o'clock before and/or after your motorbike trip.
Cha Chai Home is a popular cafe that often serves vegetarian/healthy options and quality coffee.
Viewpoint
Payam Sea View Restaurant is located on the main road between the pier and Long Beach (Ao Yai), at the top of a hill.
Their Duck Noodle Soup is worth the trip alone. The views of the jungle canopy below are a great bonus! And it's another great sunset spot.
SUN
The view from the large golden Buddha statue nestled on the hillside overlooking the bay at Wat Phayam is a great spot for sunrise.
The sunsets at Ao Yai are pretty spectacular.
The famous Hin Talu (Pierced Rock), a naturally occurring rock formation with a hole through it, is a great spot for photos, especially at low tide and sunset.
Payam Sea View Restaurant has magic sunset views.
Grab a sundowner at the famous Hippy Bar and enjoy the view.
DRINK - MAP
Ko Phayam's nightlife is defined by its beach bars, which are overwhelmingly laid-back, Rastafarian, and rustic, with most spots centered around watching the incredible sunset.
1. Hippy Bar (Ao Khao Kwai/Buffalo Bay)
The Hippy Bar is the undisputed most famous and iconic bar on the island.
It is more than just a bar; it's considered an artistic masterpiece. The multi-story structure is entirely handcrafted and pieced together using driftwood and other flotsam and jetsom. The three-storey driftwood castle looks like a psychedelic pirate ship.
It's the perfect place to hang out, listen to Reggae music from talented local DJs, and enjoy a front-row view of the sunset. With a rum laced smoothie in hand.
They also serve surprisingly good food and are a known spot for sighting the island's famous hornbills.
2. Rasta Baby Bar
Sticking to the island's dominant theme, Rasta Baby Bar offers a cozy, chill atmosphere.
Features a distinct Rastafarian-style design, often decorated in green with a cool Bob Marley mural.
Known for top-notch Reggae music, talented local bands, and a special evening ritual of setting up fires on the beach, making it a great spot for gazing at the stars.
3. Gypsy Bar
Located on Ao Khao Kwai (Buffalo Bay), the Gypsy Bar offers a similar feel to the Hippy Bar but is often much quieter.
It's a fantastic spot for relaxing, known for its lovely owners who contribute to the peaceful, welcoming vibe.
4. Rock Bar and Viewpoint
This bar provides one of the island's most unique settings.
The bar is uniquely built directly into the natural rocks of the coastline. This adventurous, wild design makes for a memorable and thrilling visit. It's great for chilling and enjoying the sound of the sea.
5. Other Spots
Freedom - Known for live music and an open-air setting. They frequently hold parties twice a week, attracting top local and international talent, while still keeping the Rastafarian atmosphere.
Siam Bar - A hidden gem run by a local couple. While very chill on most nights, they run parties every 2-3 days and are known for great tunes, drinks, and food (including highly-rated pizza).
MUSIKA Dance Bar - Hosts the best (and often the only) Goa Trance parties on the island, primarily on Saturdays, catering to those looking for a different kind of nightlife experience. It is nestled in the jungle often featuring light shows and a more underground atmosphere. It draws a crowd of travellers and locals looking to dance and enjoy the unique, forested setting.
The Rendezvous - For those who want to watch international sporting events, this bar has multiple TVs and a wide range of beverages, with the restaurant and sports bar operating as separate areas.
Catch a bus or minivan from Ranong bus station to Chumpon. It takes 2½ hours and they usually drop you around the Chumpon train station which is close to the centre of town.
Chumpon 5N - MAP - The Gateway to the South
ABOUT
Ancient Frontier City - It's name translates to a gathering of forces which reflects it's historical importance as a northern frontier city for the southern kingdoms, where armies would gather before going into battle, often against the Burmese.
Its name first appeared in the myths of Nakhon Si Thammarat around A.D. 555, where it was listed as one of the "twelve subordinate cities." Later, in 1454, under the Ayutthaya Kingdom, it was recognized as a Tri-level city and a southern frontier.
Chumphon holds a significant and historic place in Thailand's story during World War II, primarily due to the Japanese Invasion of Thailand on December 8, 1941.
1. The Battle of Chumphon (December 8, 1941)
Chumphon was one of the key locations where the Imperial Japanese Army (IJA) launched simultaneous amphibious landings along the coast of the Kra Isthmus on the morning of December 8, 1941, shortly before the attack on Pearl Harbor (due to the time zone difference).
The Thai forces, particularly the young cadets, were determined and managed to pin down the advancing Japanese at the Tha Nang Sang Bridge on the road leading inland. The fighting was intense and lasted several hours.
The resistance only ended in the afternoon when the Thai defenders received the official order from Prime Minister Plaek Phibunsongkhram's government in Bangkok to cease fire. The Prime Minister, who was away during the initial landing, had finally made the decision to allow Japanese passage through Thailand to prevent a full-scale war.
2. Chumphon as a Japanese Logistics Hub (1942–1945)
After the ceasefire and the subsequent alliance between Thailand and Japan (making Thailand part of the Axis alliance), Chumphon's strategic location on the Kra Isthmus became vital for the Japanese war effort.
It became an important supply and transshipment centre for the Japanese, particularly for operations into Malaya and Burma.
Due to its importance as a logistics hub, Chumphon became a frequent target for Allied forces.
The province was devastated in November 1989 when it was hit hard by Typhoon Gay. It is the only tropical storm on record that reached Thailand with typhoon-level wind strength, tragically resulting in the deaths of 529 people, leaving 160,000 homeless, and destroying a huge amount of farmland.
The province has a long untouched 222 km coastline and an archipelago of 44 islands in the Gulf of Thailand. They offer numerous pristine, uncrowded beaches that are often described as "Thailand as it used to be."
Chumphon is Thailand's largest producer of Robusta coffee, contributing around 60% of the country's total coffee production, particularly in the Ban Panwal valley. You can sample famous local brands like Thamsing and Khao Tha-Lu Chumporn.
The province has a high number of Geographical Indication (GI) products in the South, including its famous finger bananas (Kluai Lep Mue Nang) and its increasingly popular durian crops.
Getting Around -
You have tuk tuks, songthaews (utes with a roof and 2 benches in the back), motorcycle taxis as well as Grab and Bolt. You can also hire scooters and bicycles.
Stay
Retro Box Hotel Chumphon *** 8.2 -
Great location close to shops and 8 mins walk from the Night Market, built out of containers, outdoor swimming pool, terrace, hot tub, exceptional breakfast included, free parking, 7/11 next door, bicycle rental
Euro Boutique Hotel *** 8.1 - 250b E/B
Great location slightly closer to everything than the one above, free parking, restaurant, sun terrace, garden, outdoor seating area, mini-mart, pub crawls, coffee house, food & drink vending machines
Morakot Twin Chumphon *** 7.2 - 400b E/B
Even better location close to the Night Market and bars, 2 x swimming pools - 1 saltwater & 1 childrens, hot tub, sun loungers, 24 hour desk, restaurant, tea & coffee maker in room
Miki House 8.4 - Cheap & Good -
Excellent location next to the shopping mall, balcony, great roof top terrace, coffee shop, mini-mart, hair dresser, free parking, tea & coffee maker in room, atm, 24 hour desk
Loft Mania Boutique Hotel **** 7.6 - Flash 500b E/B
Good location 10 mins walk from the Night Market, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre, terrace, restaurant, bar, lounge, coffee shop, free parking, 24 hour desk, safety box, massage
DO
Motorbike daytrip – MAP
· Head up to Thung Wua Laen Beach 4001W – L then R @ pic (where road bends right) – then L – R to coast and head north to Thung Wua Laen Beach
· Next is Khao Dinsor Viewpoint – follow 4008 North up coast to 3180R – 3201R up to Khao Dinsor VP
· Then western edge of Chumpon – follow 3201 South – 3180R - 4L – 2005L – to next place
· Samnaksong Tham Chang Phueak (Cave Temple) – continue on 2005 South – turn right to Ban Hadprik – turn left when road comes to an end – follow this road and it will lead on to 2016 – turn hard left at pic #2 down to Nam Lot Cave
· Nam Lot Cave – Continue heading south on road past the cave – road will start heading east – it will follow the river back to the Wat below and 41
· Back up North on 41 (Could go all the way home) OR
· Need to go up and do a U -turn to come back and go east on 2018 – follow 2018 then turn right at pic #3 – follow to the Bar Horizon
· Follow road past bar – turn left at 2019 to go home and turn right to go to the coast and some seafood restaurants then follow it back to -
Tham Sing Café (at Khao Mutsea Viewpoint) - This is more than just a cafe it's a local institution tied to the region's famous coffee heritage. Located at the site where premium Robusta coffee was first planted in Southern Thailand, it is known for serving excellent local coffee, such as their Honey Black Coffee. It also features a minimalist loft style with a great balcony view.
Deer Suspension Bridge - Nong Yai Tang Chang Public Park
The suspension bridge extends over a pond, leading to an island. The main draw is the herd of Javan Rusa deer (sometimes over a hundred) that roam freely on the island.
Walking across the bridge offers an exhilarating experience and panoramic views of the surrounding greenery. A major highlight is the opportunity to feed the deer with banana sold by locals. The deer are generally most active in the morning.
The park complex also features the Nong Yai Wooden Bridge, a longer footbridge that stretches over a kilometer across the water.
This attraction offers a great combination of impressive bridge architecture and a unique opportunity to interact with wildlife in a beautiful natural setting.
Free - except for the 🍌🍌🍌
· Mu Koh Chumphon National Park -
You can walk on the beautiful mangrove forest nature trail and islands.
The main attraction on the mainland is a long, elevated wooden boardwalk that extends deep into the mangrove forest. It is well-maintained and provides an easy, non-challenging walking route for all ages.
The trail is mostly shaded by the dense mangrove trees, creating a tunnel-like experience and offering a serene atmosphere. You get an up-close look at the unique root systems of the various mangrove species.
Along the boardwalk, you'll find signs and information boards that explain the mangrove ecosystem, its vital role in the environment, and its importance to local communities.
Wildlife - the mangrove ecosystem is rich with life. While walking the trail, you may spot various aquatic animals and mangrove wildlife that indicate a healthy ecosystem, such as:
Crabs - Fiddler crabs.
Fish - Climbing perch (mudskippers).
Birds - Water birds, including egrets, gulls and various other species especially during low tide when the mudflats are exposed.
Mammals - Crab-eating macaques are occasionally seen, but visitors are not allowed to feed them.The trail is a large loop that includes a suspension bridge crossing over a small estuary or the Tha Jorake Canal. There are also resting pavilions (sala) along the boardwalk, which are useful for shelter or observation.
You can also take a boat tour to explore the mangrove forest further.
Or come back for a night boat ride to see fireflies at the Tha Taphao Canal.
There is the usual National Park entrance fee.
· Hat Thung Wua Laen - aka Cow Beach
If your looking for a beach day this is the one to head to.
It is one of the most beautiful and well-known beaches in Chumphon Province known for its long stretch of fine, pearly white sand, clear water, and peaceful atmosphere.
Beachfront Restaurants - You will find a variety of restaurants and food stands along the beach, ranging from bamboo huts with affordable street food and restaurants with high-quality fresh sea-food.
It's a popular destination for Thai tourists on weekends and holidays and quieter during the week.
Boat trip to the islands of Mu Ko Chumphon National Park -
A beautiful marine area and "hidden gem" known for its untouched natural beauty, diverse coral reefs and abundant marine life. Boat trips here are primarily focused on snorkeling and diving.
Most tour operators run full-day snorkeling and island-hopping trips, often following a rotating itinerary that separates the islands into two main groups.
Most tours depart from piers near the Pak Nam Chumphon area, such as the Tha Yang Pier.
Tours are typically a full day, running from roughly 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM.
The main activities are snorkeling and scuba diving. Some islands also offer opportunities for kayaking and relaxing on secluded beaches. The park even features Thailand's first underwater nature trails at Ko Matra and Ko Ngam Yai.
The cost of the tour package usually excludes 🙁 the mandatory National Park entrance fee.
November through April offers the best weather with calm seas and excellent visibility for snorkeling and diving.
Tour companies often divide their destinations into "Odd Date" and "Even Date" itineraries to give visitors a chance to experience different parts of the park.
GOLF
The Nouveau Chumphon Beach Resort And Golf -
Is closed at the time of writing and not expected to reopen but it's worth checking out. It is a 9-holer and the latest review I could find was from 2018 and wasn't very complimentary. It is SE of town on the coast.
Another 9 - holer west of town on Hwy 4. Run by the Thai Army it is cheap, friendly and uncrowded. They have caddies and carts.
EAT - MAP
🐟 Unique Chumphon Specialties
Spicy Southern Curries - Expect intense heat and flavor. Must-try dishes include Gaeng Som Tai (Southern Thai Orange Curry) a famously spicy and sour curry, often made with fish or fresh seafood and local vegetables.
Gaeng Neua (Spicy Beef Curry) known for its rich, intense spice.
Kaeng Som Noodles (Sour Soup Noodles) - A unique local specialty that takes the spicy, tangy Gaeng Som soup and pairs it with fresh noodles and seafood. It's an inventive and flavourful local take on a classic.
Fresh Seafood - Look for dishes like
Fried Shrimp with Tamarind Sauce
Spicy Horseshoe Crab Egg Salad
Thai Sweet and Sour Squid Soup
Khao Thalu Coffee - Chumphon is an agricultural region, and the Khao Thalu area is famous for growing some of the finest Robusta coffee beans in Southern Thailand, first planted here in 1967. This makes a strong, local cup a must-try.
The products Chumphon is famous for are lady-finger bananas, Sawi pineapples and baegu leaves which normally are fried with eggs or boiled with curry soup.
🌙 Chumphon Night Market - 6 pm to 12 am
The night market is the heart of the city's street food scene and a paradise for foodies.
Found along Krom Luang Rd or Tha Taphao Road, near the train station. It usually opens around 6:00 PM.
Must-Try Food -
Chumphon Pad Thai & Hoi Thot (Oyster Omelette) the area around the night market was historically nicknamed Thanon Phat Thai (Pad Thai Road) due to the abundance of stalls selling these two dishes. They are classics here.
Fresh Seafood & BBQ Skewers - grilled squid, fish, prawns, and Moo Ping (grilled pork skewers).
Desserts & Snacks - look for local Thai desserts like Khanom Buang (crispy Thai pancakes) and unique finds like Bua Loi Khai Whan (tapioca pearls in coconut milk with a poached egg).
🥟 Dim Sum & Others
Chumphon, like many Southern Thai towns with Chinese influence, has a strong dim sum breakfast culture.
Chokdee Tae Tiam Chumphon - a very well-known spot in the city center offering a wide variety of dim sum starting at budget-friendly prices. They are also famous for serving Bak Kut Teh (a Chinese herbal pork rib soup).
Hor Jiah Dim Sum - another popular Chinese restaurant known for its freshly made dim sum and Bak Kut Teh.
Roti Faridah - famous for its Roti (a thin, crispy flatbread). It is a beloved local sweet spot located near the night market. They serve various versions, including the popular Roti with Massaman Curry and Teh Tarik (Pulled Tea).
ติดมันส์ ชุมพร Tidmunz Chumphon - buffet BBQ, hotpot and others, cook at your own table
SUN - MAP
Hangout Bar and Restaurant -
The closest beach bar is 13 minutes from the hotel by tuk tuk.
Khao Matsee View Point –
You can ride up and the famous Thamsing Cafe is there for drinks
Thung Wua Laen Beach - This beach offers several spots with cocktails and sunset views -
The Rak-Talay Bar & Restaurant at The Nest Private Beach Resort
The Phoenix Restaurant & Beach Bar
Handlebar and Grill
Maliblues Bed & Dinner - live music on Sundays.
On the weekends you'll find a coffee truck at the Laem Hua Mong-Kho Kwang Viewpoint between 10 am and 6 pm.
DRINK - MAP
Chumphon's nightlife offers a great mix of local Thai bars with live music, trendy clubs, and laid-back beach spots. The main hubs for evening activity are in the city center and the area around Thung Wua Laen Beach.
Chumphon has several bars known for a good atmosphere and hosting live bands -
De Rust Bar -
A big open place known for its vibrant nightlife. This bar features live music, a lively atmosphere, and a diverse selection of drinks.
Feirou -
This is a popular bar known specifically for its vibrant live music scene and lively atmosphere. It also serves delightful Thai cuisine.
Forest Bar -
A tropical oasis offering a blend of relaxation and vibrant nightlife. It has a great atmosphere amplified by lush greenery and is known for its expertly crafted drinks. They occasionally feature live music performances, showcasing local talent.
Chumphon Arms Pub -
Cozy pub-style environment that blends local culture with a welcoming atmosphere.
CUBE Bar (ร้านคิวบ์ CUBE) -
Is an electrifying nightlife venue and one of the best spots in the city. They regularly host theme nights and live music events, making it a good choice for dancing and a lively crowd, especially on weekends.
6:30 PM to 12:00 AM.
Beach Bar Hangouts
For a relaxed evening by the sea, head to Thung Wua Laen Beach, about 15km from the main town, where you'll find a lively strip of beachfront venues. This area is known for bars with a great atmosphere and live music, particularly blues.
Catch the train at 11.18 am to Cha-Am which takes 3 hours and 13 minutes (2nd class A/C only) and arrives at 2.31 pm. If this isn't available you can take a train to Hua Hin and then a minibus on to Cha-Am.
Or there are 3 x buses a day that take 6½ hours.
Cha-Am 30N - MAP
Cha-am is popular with working-class Thais who come down from Bangkok on weekends.
If you want to play golf in Bangkok near the airport, now would be a good time to make your booking. Have a look below at GOLF in Lat Krabang. ⤵️
ABOUT -
It is a tranquil and relaxed coastal town in Phetchaburi Province. Quieter and more authentically Thai than its busier neighbor Hua Hin 20 km to the south.
Cha-am's history is relatively modest beginning as a quiet fishing village. It wasn't until the 20th century with the development of the railway from Bangkok and the Thai royal family's vacationing in the nearby area (which led to the rise of Hua Hin), that Cha-am also began to transform into a beach destination.
Its unique character is defined by its role as a favourite, affordable weekend getaway for Thai families and young urbanites from Bangkok. Unlike many other developed tourist destinations in Thailand, Cha-am has successfully balanced growth with preservation, retaining a quaint charm and a strong local lifestyle.
Cha-am is famous for its distinct shift in atmosphere from weekday to weekend:.
Weekdays - The town is laid-back, quiet, and peaceful, ideal for seniors, couples, and those seeking tranquility.
Weekends - It transforms into a lively hub due to the influx of Thai tourists escaping Bangkok.
The nightly beach road market is more local-oriented than the markets in Hua Hin.
Cha-am is a notable destination for a small population of long-term expats, with a particularly prominent Scandinavian community, especially Norwegians.
You can find restaurants and bars that feature a Nordic theme and cater to this community with their local dishes.
Getting Around -
Cha-Am has all of the usual options.
Cha-am’s beach road is great for pedalling and countless places rent out bicycles (including tandems) for a very reasonable price.
Motorbikes can also be rented at many places on the beach road.
STAY -
airbnb - condo by the beach for a month
Hotels for a week or two
Perfect location on the beachfront and close to the main road with a 7/11 nearby, 2 x saltwater swimming pools, balconies, rainshower, massage, cable TV, safe, restaurant, fitness centre, bicycle rental, tropical gardens, bar, free parking, tea & coffee maker in room, very good buffet breakfast included
Irin Beach Cha-am *** 7.8 - cheapie for own rooms
Great beachfront location 5 mins from the main street, 2 x swimming pools, sun terrace, spa facilities, balconies, restaurant, free parking, BBQ facilities, sun loungers, coffee house
Asia Cha-am Hotel **** 7.9 - Large modern hotel
Great beachfront location 10 mins from the main road, outdoor swimming pool, 24 hour desk, fitness centre, business centre, lobby lounge & bar, free parking, restaurant
DO - MAP
Mrigadayavan Palace (The Palace of Love and Hope) -
This exquisite 1923 summer palace, built by King Rama VI, is a must-see. It was designed by an Italian architect and features 16 open-air, elevated teak pavilions connected by walkways, allowing sea breezes to circulate for a healthy retreat.
Khao Nang Phanthurat Forest Park -
This park, named after a giantess from local folklore, offers a 3km nature trail and challenging hikes among unique limestone karsts. Look for the "Nang Phanthurat's Mirror" hole for a stunning viewpoint.
Located at the far northern end of the beach, past Wat Neranchararam, this village is where you can find a bustling harbor full of fishing boats and a number of excellent restaurants serving the freshest and most inexpensive seafood, giving you a glimpse into the town's origins.
This temple is notable for an unusual Buddha statue with six arms hiding its eyes and ears, a unique piece of religious iconography.
The Eurasia Cha-am Lagoon -
Is a resort 3 km north of Cha-am that boasts two free-form pools overlooking the gulf. It is free to the public and open 24 hours a day. A terrace restaurant serves Thai food, beer and liquor. This place is seldom crowded so it's a great place to hang out and take a dip.
Is an award-winning producer and tasting their unique tropical wines is a must-do.
You can choose from various tasting flights that include their premium or flagship ranges, or a combination of both. Wines are made from a variety of grapes, including Colombard, Chenin Blanc, Shiraz, and Brunello. Non-drinkers can typically substitute the tasting for fresh grape juice.
The wines are made to pair specifically with Thai and spicy Asian cuisine, offering a distinctive flavor profile you won't find in traditional wine regions.
Tours and Activities
The vineyard offers several ways to explore the picturesque grounds.
Hop on a jeep with a guide for a hands-on introduction to New Latitude winegrowing. You'll learn how grapes are grown in a tropical climate. Runs at 9:30 AM, 10:45 AM, 1:00 PM, and 4:00 PM.
Explore the vast 110-hectare vineyards at your own pace with a mountain bike rental.
A creative activity where you can design and paint your own unique wine label on a bottle to take home as a souvenir.
Check the vineyard's website for information and booking.
🍇 Dining and Lunch in the Vineyards
The centerpiece of your visit is The Sala Wine Bar & Bistro, a beautifully designed Thai-style pavilion situated on a hilltop with spectacular, panoramic views overlooking the rolling vineyards.
Cuisine - The restaurant offers a menu of international and Thai dishes, designed to pair with Monsoon Valley's wines. They incorporate local ingredients, including produce grown on the vineyard's farm.
The restaurant and vineyard are open daily:
April to October: 9 am – 7 pm (Last food/wine order at 6.30 pm)
November to March: 9 am – 8 pm (Last food/wine order at 7.30 pm)
Shuttle Service: The vineyard offers a round-trip shuttle service for THB 300 per person, which also includes the Vineyard Tour. The pickup and drop-off point is the Monsoon Valley Wine Bar located at Villa Market in downtown Hua Hin.
Is a beautiful and tranquil spot focused on environmental education and nature preservation.
1.The Elevated Boardwalk Nature Trail is the main activity and highlight of the park.
Keep an eye out for creatures that thrive in the mudflats, such as mudskippers, fiddler crabs (known for their one large claw), various snails, and different species of birds.
2. The Observation Tower is around 17 meters high.
Climbing the tower offers a panoramic 360-degree vista of the vast mangrove canopy, the surrounding park, the pristine beach, and the coastline towards Cha-am and Hua Hin.
8.30 am to 5 pm daily
Insect repellent is highly recommended, as are comfortable walking shoes and water.
Zucata Sheep Farm - with NZ Sheep 🐑
Quirky Thai theme park.
*Phra Nakhon Khiri Historical Park (Khao Wang) - *
all 3 in the same area - 40 kms north of Cha-am
This iconic landmark is a 19th-century summer palace complex built by King Mongkut (Rama IV) on a hill overlooking the city. You can take a cable car up to explore the royal halls, temples, and pagodas, all while enjoying panoramic views of the area.
*Wat Mahathat Worawihan -
A beautiful, ancient temple featuring a towering white prang (Khmer-style tower) that is a symbol of the city.
*Tham Khao Luang
A large, illuminated cave filled with numerous Buddha statues, which is particularly atmospheric when the sunlight streams through the ceiling openings.
Is a spectacular destination in Thailand, renowned for being the country's largest national park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is a paradise for nature lovers, hikers, and wildlife enthusiasts.
The park features high mountains, deep valleys, pristine rainforests, and the immense Kaeng Krachan Reservoir.
The park is considered one of the best birdwatching spots in Asia, home to over 400 species of birds, including broadbills, kingfishers, and hornbills.
Between March and May, the park is famous for its massive butterfly populations, with a stunning variety of species often seen around the park headquarters and along trails.
The forest is home to various endangered mammals such as elephants, leopards, civets, and several species of monkey.
Is one of the most famous viewpoints, sitting high above the park. It is a spectacular spot, especially during the cool season, to witness the "sea of fog" or misty sunrise blanketing the valleys below.
Note: Access to this area is typically restricted to certain times of the year and times of the day to protect the environment.
Kaeng Krachan Reservoir is a beautiful focal point of the park. You can enjoy a boat trip, offering stunning views of the surrounding mountains and forests.
Located deep within the lush forests of the Kaeng Krachan National Park, Pala-U is one of the largest waterfalls in Thailand, with 16 tiers.
The falls are spread out, and you can hike up several of the lower tiers. The higher tiers offer increasingly secluded pools and viewpoints.
Natural Fish Spa - The pools at the base of the lower tiers are often teeming with large fish that will give you a natural "Dr Fish" experience in a dense, beautiful jungle setting.
GOLF - MAP - bookings - golfhuahin & HuaHinGolfCourse
Power Nine Kaeng Krachan Golf Club - 40 kms
Is a scenic 27-hole golf facility on the edge of the large Kaeng Krachan National Park. It is a hilly, parkland-style track that winds through rolling hills, surrounded by natural lakes, mountains, and forests.
New 9 Holes (Mountain Course) were designed by Jack Nicklaus and opened in March 2008. A championship-standard course known for some of the most dramatic elevation changes in Thailand.
The course is praised as a "hidden gem" due to its magnificent scenery and quiet country atmosphere.
Sawang Resort Golf Club - 70 kms
Is a 27-hole golf course and resort located in the Khao Yoi Valley of Phetchaburi Province. The course plays over rolling hills and is known for its beautiful, rural setting, surrounded by rice fields, fruit orchards, and fresh water lakes.
Is a historically significant and unique golf destination in Thailand.
Opened in 1924, it holds the distinction of being the first 18-hole international-standard golf course in the Kingdom of Thailand, making it a national treasure.
Construction began in 1919 under the reign of King Rama VI, and the course was inaugurated by the King in 1924. The full 18 holes were completed in 1928 under King Rama VII.
The course is set against a beautiful backdrop of rocky limestone cliffs.
Encounters with nature are common, including macaque monkeys near the 13th hole and small owls. The course is located right next to the beautiful and historic Hua Hin Railway Station and a Thai temple is visible near the par-3 14th hole.
Golf carts are optional and green fees are the cheapest around.
*Suan Son Pradipat Golf Course - aka Sea Pines Golf Course -
Owned and operated by the Royal Thai Army.
Sea Pines Golf Course is the newest golf course in Hua Hin and also the closest to sea, making for some spectacular ocean views. The links-style 7,305 yards, 18-hole course has 12 holes adjacent to the main road with another six holes, separated by a train line, running close to the beautiful Gulf of Thailand.
$$$ Black Mountain Golf Club - 35 kms
One of the best courses in Asia
$$$ Pineapple Valley Golf Course - 40 kms
Also a wonderful course - unfortunately golf prices in SEAsia have gone though the roof in recent years and it's hard to justify paying the exorbitant rates for some of the better courses.
EAT - MAP
The food scene in Cha-am is defined by its incredibly fresh seafood and traditional Thai flavors, while also featuring a unique blend of European influences thanks to the expat community.
You will find many open-air restaurants directly along the main beach strip, especially in the central area. These offer sea views and a huge array of fresh fish, prawns, and squid.
For the absolute freshest seafood, head to the Cha-am Fish Market at the northern end of the main beach road. You can choose your own live seafood from tanks or ice displays and have it cooked on the spot at nearby stalls or restaurants.
🐷 Muu Han (หมูหัน) - Spit-Roasted Pig
It is essentially the Thai version of a suckling pig that is slow-roasted over a fire or charcoal until the skin is incredibly thin, crisp, and golden brown, while the meat remains succulent and tender.
You can find it at a number of specialist restaurants along Narathip Rd the main road heading inland.
🐔 Gai Ob Ong (ไก่อบโอ่ง) - Chicken Roasted in a Clay Jar/Pot
A whole chicken is typically marinated in a blend of herbs, spices and sauces (like lemongrass, garlic, coriander root, pepper, and fish sauce), which is then slow-cooked inside a large ceramic/clay pot (ong or oang) over charcoal.
You will find this dish along Narathip Rd too.
The sauces for both Muu Han and Gai Ob Ong are often based on a spicy, tangy, and savory condiment called Nam Jim Jaew from Isaan (Northeast Thailand) that is wildly popular across the country.
This sauce is a flavor powerhouse designed specifically to cut through the richness and oiliness of grilled or roasted meat, adding brightness and a smoky aroma.
DIM SUM
Hua Seng Hong Dim Sum -
A dedicated dim sum restaurant, part of a known Thai-Chinese food chain.
Kopi Roti Dimsum -
A local spot that offers dim sum along with other popular dishes like roti and coffee.
Fu Lue Chinese Restaurant -
A Chinese restaurant that includes dim sum items on its menu.
ชาเมย์ อาหารเช้า Chamay Breakfast -
A dim sum restaurant
Scandinavian Expats, Bakeries & Restaurants
Cha-am and the neighboring town of Hua Hin have large Scandinavian and European expat communities, leading to a surprising number of shops catering to a Western palate.
Sailom's Bakery -
This bakery is a local favorite known specifically for its authentic German pastries, homemade rustic bread (like walnut bread), and even German sausages.
Love Bread -
Features classic European baked goods like butter croissants, rye and muesli breads and various pastries.
Euro Bakery Guesthouse -
Coffee shop and bakery offers delectable pastries and baked goods.
Sea&Sand (Swedish and Thai Fusion) -
Beach-front restaurant offering Swedish comfort food like Swedish meatballs and velvety mashed potatoes. The fish dishes, prepared using the Swedish owner's mother's recipe, are also a favorite.
Suwanna Restaurant (Norwegian Cuisine) -
Recommend the pickled and smoked salmon, which is said to easily quench homesickness. Depending where home is of course. 🤪
Cha-am Wednesday Night Market -
This is one of the region's largest and most local night markets, offering a more traditional Thai experience with affordable prices. It typically opens around 5 pm and runs until about 9 or 10 pm every Wednesday evening.
The market is a paradise for foodies, featuring a massive selection of Thai street food and local delicacies.
Such as grilled pork skewers and Isaan sausages.
Grilled fish, cockles and other fresh seafood.
Crispy Thai pancakes, Kanom Krok (sweet coconut milk pancakes) and Thai-style ice cream.
Thai fried chive cakes, fried sweet potato balls, fried insects and bugs.
You can also find stalls offering German sausages.
One of the most innovative features of the Cha-am Wednesday Night Market is the "Farang Husband Minding Centre."
This is a complimentary service (you just pay for the drinks!) designed for non-Thai husbands who don't enjoy browsing through the market's many stalls.
The wives can shop undisturbed and without having to listen to the common "when are we going home?" question.
The husbands are safely "minded," enjoying a cold beer and watching the lively atmosphere until their wives are finished with their shopping.
SUN
Cha-am is more of a Sun-rise beach than a Sun-set one. Although you can still sit in a beachside bar and watch the colours of the sky change as the sun sets.
OR you could visit
Natural Spectacle - Nayang Bat Cave Exodus
Around 5 km from town, halfway up a limestone peak, a colony of an estimated 10 million bats streams out en-masse at sunset to hunt. You can stand at the viewing platform and watch the sun dip below the hills while this enormous column of bats flies overhead.
DRINK - MAP
The heart of Cha-am's evening activity is concentrated around Soi Bus Station.
This small area is where you will find the most animated bars after dark. It features a mix of general pubs, bar-restaurants, and a few "gogo bars."
There are also a number of bar / restaurants along the beachfront.
The best bet for live bands and music is Music House 90's Bar บ้านเพลงชะอำ.nds.
Get an airport transfer and get them to drop you off at the hotel in Lat Krabang. It should be quite reasonable.
LAT KRABANG 2N – MAP
STAY -
Suvarnabhumi Suite Hotel **** 7.8 -
Great location 10 mins from the airport, Rooftop Garden, fitness centre, sauna, 2 x swimming pools, sun terrace, restaurant - indoor / outdoor dining, bar, 1 min walk from 72 SkyBar Restaurant, 10 min walk from market, 30 min walk to Happy Healthy Bike Lane, lots of other bars, restaurants and cafes around, paid airport shuttle, 24 hour desk, safety box
Canalis Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel ***** 8.5 -
Great location close to the one above, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre, sun terrace, 2 x restaurants - indoor / outdoor dining, bar, garden 24 hour desk, paid airport shuttle, BBQ facilities, Happy Hour, safety box
EAT - Heaps of places in the area
Pakeaw Kaikrob – Crispy Chicken Glass
3 min walk to legendary local Isaan food
All you can eat next to 747 Cafe
DO - MAP
Flea Market -
Food and goods not far from the hotel - see map
Lat Krabang Park -
Not far past the Flea Market, lakes, waterways, walks, topiary, picnic spots
in a 747 3.3 km from hotel
A canal-side community dating back to the Rama V era, which has been reinvigorated as an art market by a canal a 2km / 30 min walk from the hotel – half way to the 747 Cafe
A freshwater "City Beach" with beach club, toys, umbrellas and huts about 20 minutes drive away
HHBL –
Bike & Jogging track with cafes, KFC and rentals etc, 20 mins walk from the Flea Market
GOLF
The Royal Golf & Country Club -
The Course is a strategic and challenging course, despite its relatively flat layout, due to numerous water hazards.
Bookings are essential - best a month in advance. It may be cheapest to book it through an agent. Here are three you can do online.
ThailandGolfers
Golf carts are compulsory on weekends.
Some promotions or twilight rates can offer fees as low as ฿1,800 on weekdays.
Caddie Fee ฿400
Golf Cart ฿700 – ฿850
Recommended Caddie Tip ฿400
SUN
At the Suvarnabhumi Suite Hotel
DRINK - MAP
Several places on Lat Krabang Rd near the hotel and a small soi on the other side - see Map and / or Marker Map
Mae Hong Son Loop
Itinerary - 📜
Bangkok 2N
Chiang Mai 3N
140km
125km
Mae Sariang 3N
165km or get an early start and take the BONUS route on
Hwy 4009 - Thailand's best kept secret. It will make the day
205 kms and 4 hours 45 minutes long.
Mae Hong Son 3N
130km
50km
Pai 3N
100km
Mae Rim 2N
40km
Chiang Mai 1N
= 21N / 6Towns & 750 / 790 Km
Safety - 🧷
Slow is safe. You will encounter many hazards along the way and the slower you are going the more chance you will survive them. Pot holes, animals, mad bus and truck drivers etc.
At the end of every motor vehicle accident story in the papers is the line "and the driver fled the scene".
On the roads in Asia there is one rule. Smaller things give way to bigger things. At least on a bike you have plenty of room to get out of the way. And you know where you stand in the pecking order - right at the bottom.
Don't let this scare you off what is a fantastic experience. It just means you don't need to rent a big powerful bike and go hell for leather.
When the road is good and clear you can still give it a handful and there is nothing like the feeling of cruising through the bends in the afternoon light with just a subtle shift of your weight.
The ever reliable 125 has plenty enough power to get you up the steepest hills. And they're incredibly cheap.
If you want some more comfort or there are 2 on the bike something bigger would be a good idea. The Honda Forza scooter is a good choice.
Short easy days are the way to go. You're on holidays. Don't ride in the dark. Alcohol and motorbikes don't mix.
Skill Level -
There are a couple of tricky bits but take it slowly and you'll be fine. It's a fantastic ride for a motor bike.
When - 🌞
Mid to Late November is ideal.
If you are taking the BONUS route on HWY 4009 the sunflowers are in bloom between early November and early December. This is a perfect time for riding the loop as the rain has stopped and the burning hasn't started.
October to January is best - you don't want to be riding in the rain or the smoke. October can have rainy days so the later in the month the better.
October, November is shoulder season and December, January is peak.
You really don't want to go during burning season which is January to March. It's hard to say when this is but October to December should be before it happens and you're probably okay through to early January.
Famous - 🗼
This Loop
Thung Bua Tong Fields at Doi Mae U Kho 🌻
1.6 million square meters of bright yellow Mexican Sunflowers.
there are arguments as to whether this is exploitation or not but the bottom line is they are refugees and this is the only way they can earn money for the whole village.
Air America with Mel Gibson and Robert Downey Jnr 🛩️
was filmed in Mae Hong Son which they renamed "May Hang Self". But they were here a lot longer than you will be. It's a magical place especially at night with the temple lights reflecting in the lake while you stroll around the Night Market.
Coffee in Love - ☕ 😍
a very scenic cafe area was in Thai movie and became very famous. Traffic used to back up for kilometres to come up for coffee and selfies.
Su Tong Pae - 🎍
the Bamboo Bridge
Highlights -
Ko Kret or Bang Kachao - 2 Bangkok Islands - see Bangkok in "Cities" Days 3 & 7)
Chiang Mai Grand Canyon - weird water park
Doi Inthanon - "The Roof of Thailand" and rare Cloud Forest
Mae Sariang - Salween River boat trip from Mae Sam Laeb
Phu Klon Country Club - Mud Spa
Cave Lodge - unique place to stay
Three Countries in one day - Thailand
Ban Rak Thai - Little China
Pang Oung Resevoir - Little Switzerland
Pai - everybody's favourite town
Mae Rim - Pools with views
Budget -
Very cheap, great value for money.
Pack - 🧳
Always take some wet weather and warm gear. It always rains on one day of the trip. Try to keep it light. Long johns are good. As is a spray jacket, gloves and a Garden bag to keep your pck dry. Octopus straps to hold your pack down.
Visa - 🛂
Many countries get 60 days on arrival at Thai Airports. Some land borders only give 15 days to some countries. Click Here.
Thailand has a new digital arrival card system called the TDAC. You will need to fill it out 3 days before each and every arrival. It's free so beware of scam sites trying to charge you. Click Here.
Airports - 🛫
Suvarnabhumi International Airport (BKK) -
there is a free shuttle service between here and (DMK) which has the cheap flights and airlines
Don Mueang International Airport (DMK)
Use a taxi to get out here
Chiang Mai International Airport (CNX)
Catch the official airport taxi into town
Starting Town -
Chiang Mai -
Flying from Bangkok is cheap, the overnight train is fun and the bus is the cheapest and least desirable option. The old Don Mueang International Airport (DMK) has the cheap flights.
Spend a couple of days organising the bikes and anything else you may need.
Eat Khao Soi - Chiang Mai Laksa
Gaeng Hung Lay - Burmese pork curry
Sai Oua - Northern sausage
Khantoke dinner - and show
Check out the Night Bazaar and drink by the river, Loi Kroh and Nimmanhaemin
Rental - 🛵
Chiang Mai is full of rental places. Most with a pretty good reputation. Shop around and definitely take the bike for a test run and check it out thoroughly. Take a photo of any damage to it before you leave.
Make sure you get a decent helmet. the best sort have a flip down clear plastic visor which makes riding in the rain much easier.
For one person a 125cc Honda Wave has plenty of power. If there are 2 of you you might want to get something with a little more power.
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Stay - @ or near 🏩
Bangkok -
river views, swimming pool in Banglamphu area near Khao San Road
Chiang Mai -
Raming Lodge Hotel & Spa **** -
great location with swimming pool, Spa and Wellness Centre
not on Booking.com, shouldn't be any problems rocking up with out a booking - swimming pool, great view and very helpful
Mae Sariang -
on the river, swimming pool, restaurant and bar
Mae Hong Son -
not on Booking.com - lakeside - best location in town, swimming pool and very friendly
Pang Mapha (Sop Pong) -
Adventure tours, restaurant, big common area with fire pit, cold beer - homepage
Pai -
great location by river and close to town centre, swimming pool, restaurant and bar -
Next door is great value
Breeze of Pai **½ - not on Booking.com -
"A Framed Bungalows with" the river at the rear of the property.
Mae Rim -
All of these have swimming pools with great views and are within about half an hour of each other.
Panviman Chiang Mai Spa Resort***** -
hilly with fantastic views - 2 Swimming pools, Spa & Wellness Centre, Cafe, Restaurant, Bar
Sukantara Cascade Resort and Spa ****
hot tub by the waterfall - Swimming pool, Spa & Wellness Centre, Cafe, Restaurant, Bar, peacocks
BBQ night and Akha dancing - Swimming pool, Restaurant, Bar
If you can't decide just spend a night at each one :-)
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About -
Have a couple of nights in BANGKOK to get acclimatised. Have a look at Bangkok in 'Cities' for detailed information and a selection of sights and activities.
Make your way to CHIANG MAI either by plane or train. The plane is quick and cheap. The train is fun but sometimes floods cut the line at the end of the wet season.
Have 3 days in Chiang Mai getting organised and taking in the sights.
Head off south west on Hwy 108 on your great adventure. You only have 140 kms to cover today so you'll have plenty of time to look around. First stop is the Chiang Mai Grand Canyon. Pull in for a coffee or spend an hour or two having a swim or being a dare devil.
Next make you way up Doi Inthanon, Thailand's tallest mountain and see the twin pagodas for the King and Queen. Take a walk through the rare Cloud Forest and see Thailand's only Sphagnum Bog. You're never far from food in Thailand so just pick up lunch whenever you're hungry.
Continue on to your destination the friendly NAVASUANG RESORT. Cool off in the pool then grab a beer and take in the wonderful view.
After a good night sleep and a hearty breakfast make your way to MAE SARIANG. A similar distance to yesterday so no need to rush anywhere. Along the way you can see the Thep Phanom Hot Spring and Ob Luang National Park (A second Grand Canyon in as many days - don't worry there's more, but not on this trip. Unless you count Pai Canyon).
Mae Sariang is a great find and thankfully not too many people know about it. There's a good stretch of bars and restaurants along the river to entertain you in the evenings. During the day you can check out the Salawin River and go for a boat ride to a remote village for lunch on one of the longest free flowing rivers in the world.
There's a few pools around town, markets and an intriguing Buddha statue worth a look.
Easy - Relaxed Option 1
Head north on the 108. It's easy to navigate this trip as most days you only have one or two highway numbers to remember. Once again it's around a 3 hour ride, so it's nice and relaxed. Stop off for lunch in Khun Yuam which is around the half way mark. There is a museum here with some artefacts left by the Japanese in WWII.
Exciting - BONUS Option 2 on Thailands best kept secret Hwy 4009
Download the route on Maps.me so you can follow it on your phone withouth needing signal or wi-fi.
Get an early start to the day. Make your way north to Khun Yuam on Hwy 108. Stop there for coffee and cake and stretch your legs. There are quite a few restaurants along Hwy 4009 where you can have lunch. Some with lovely views. You will need to turn right off the 108 onto the 1263 and follow it east until you reach the turn off for the 4009 just after the Mae U Kho Checkpoint. Make sure you fill up with petrol while you are here. There are a few petrol stations along Hwy 1263 before you turn off. There is at least one hand pump place along the way. See the Bonus map and the Marker Map (above) for precise locations and the route.
Along the way are a couple of waterfalls, a resevoir and the famous Sunflowers. You really are off the beaten track here and the road is steep, serpentine and spectacular. Click on the link above for more information on this gem of a road.
Follow the 4009 until you go past the Ban Mae Ja Checkpoint and turn right when you get to the 108. Follow this north to Mae Hong Son. You still have 40 kms and 50 minutes to go before you get to Mae Hong Son. The next petrol station is just 3km or 5 minutes up the road.
Try to find a place near the lake in MAE HONG SON. Piya Guest House is basic but has the best location in town, is great value and the staff are fantastic. Head up the hill to the temple for sunset and wonderful views of the town. At night time there is a market and food stalls around the lake and with the temple lights twinkling in the lake reflection it's hard to think of anywhere else you'd rather be.
Or perhaps you can and it's the local pub, the Crossroads - a short walk away. There are some good day time outings here. A visit to the nearby Phu Klon Country Club Mud Spa is a must and your support for the local Karen refugee village would be much appreciated. There is some controversey about these visits but the simple fact is it is the only revenue for the whole village. Another attraction is the photogenic Su Thong Pae Bamboo Bridge, built across the rice paddies it is the longest one in Thailand. It makes for a varied and good day out. Probably best to go to the Long Neck Village first then the bridge and finish up with the mud spa.
Thailand, China and Switzerland, three countries in one day. That's how you will start off your next leg. Ban Rak Thai (love Thailand village) is a scenic little village around a lake which was settled by former Chinese Nationalist soldiers. It is a good place for morning tea as you can have tea tastings and Yunnan noodles. You will see a large tea centre on the way which is worth stopping at. Go to Thai Switzerland on the way back to the main road for a coffee.
Ban Ruam Thai is known as the Switzerland of Thailand with its lake, mountains and pine trees. Save your appetite for the BBQ stands at "Fish Cave" when you get back on the main road. Continue on until you get to the town of Pang Mapha aka Soppong and make your way to Cave Lodge.
This unique place was set up by an Australian spelunker and his Shan wife on Shan land. If you're into caving you'll enjoy his book which is on sale at the lodge. Nearby is the amazing Tham Lod (cave). CAVE LODGE is made up of different types and standards of bungalows scattered around the hilltop and a large communal building with a fire pit, hammocks, kitchen for eating, drinking and socialising.
There are a whole 'raft' of activities here from black and white water kayaking, caving and hiking. Wander down just before sunset and see and hear the amazing spectacle of 10 million bats and 10 million swallows changing shifts. It's a great place to get back to nature.
The next town on the loop, PAI has been likened to a rural Khao San Road due to its popularity with backpackers and other travellers. It is popular for good reason. It is located in a beautiful part of the world, there are a lot of things to do here, it has a fantastic Night Market and some great restaurants. It is also a good place to get bamboo tattoos if that is on your list.
Try to find somewhere nice by the river, but still a short walk from the town centre. Family House @ Pai is a good choice. Or Breeze of Pai is good value for basic A Frame bungalows.
There is plenty here to keep you occupied including Pai Canyon, the Japanese Bridge, Elephant Camp, Hot Springs, Beauty treatments, tubing, waterfalls, villages etc etc. Have fun!
Still heading east, make your way to the resort you have picked out in MAE RIM. There are a lot of action activities around here. Or you may want to sit around your spectacular pool and contemplate the journey you've just experienced with an icy cold beer in hand. Just after a relaxing spa session and massage. Sounds good!!
Short ride down the highway to CHIANG MAI and your last night. Make it a good one. Fly back to Bangkok and home. There are two airports in Bangkok so you'll want to be flying to the one with the IATA code BKK otherwise you'll need to take the free transfer shuttle which can take an hour or two depending on the traffic.
History -
Until fairly recently Mae Hong Son Province was the most inaccessible in the Kingdom. The Japanese built the first dirt road to the town during WWII. It had started life as a camp stet up for capturing elephants in the early 1800's.
Mae Hong Son continued to grow isolated from the rest of Thailand with many Burmese influences.
Ban Rak Thai was settled by Chinese KMT soldiers who came across the border after they had become isolated in southern China when Mao came to power. After years of involvement in the drug trade and hunting communists for the Thai government it was time for them to settle down. There are over 60 of these villages in northern Thailand.
The region around Pai was a haven for opium and communists in the 1970's. By the 80's these problems had been solved and the hippies started moving in.
See -
Bangkok - Sunset from Sky Bar
Chiang Mai - Doi Suthep
Doi Inthanon - Cloud Forest
Mae Sariang - Phra That Jom Thong
Mae Hong Son - Long Neck Karen Village - Su Thong Pae Bamboo Bridge - Ban Rak Thai
Phang Mapha - Tham Lod (Cave)
Pai - Pai Canyon (not for the faint hearted) - Japanese Bridge
Wild Sunflowers in November - December
Mae Rim - Buffalo Training Camp
Do - 🤡
Bangkok - Visit Ko Kret - Sunset at the Golden Mount
Chiang Mai - Massage at the Women's Prison / Cooking Classes
Mae Sariang - Salween River trip
Mae Hong Son - Visit the Mud Spa
En-route to Cavelodge go to Ban Rak Thai and little Switzerland, a tea plantation and a fish cave
Cavelodge - Black and White water kayaking - Spelunking - Trekking - Cave Lodge
Pai - Thom's Elephant Camp - Pai - Hot Spring Sa Resort Get a bamboo tattoo - Pai - ATV sunrise tour Tubing - Pai - White water rafting - learn a few tricks at the Pai Circus School
Mae Rim - Off road in the jungle
Eat - 🍛
Bangkok - Karim Roti Mataba - Jay Fai - Thipsamai
Chiang Mai - Blue Diamond / Huen Phen / Aroon Rai / Khantoke / Riverside
Mae Sariang - Coriander in Redwood (Good Thai food and wine) - Night Markets - Mae Sariang Wed, Fri & Sun
Mae Hong Son - Being so close to the border there is a lot of Shan food on offer. Shan and Yunnan Noodles
Phang Mapha - good food at Cavelodge
Pai - Night Market
Mae Rim - at the Resort
Roadside BBQs - a good one near the Mud Spa
Little restaurants in the middle of nowhere - you'll be surprised - mime something (like a chicken) and see what comes out
Drink - 🍷
Bangkok -
Banglamphu - Khao San Road (local)
Loi Kroh / Riverside / Nimmanhaemin / Hill Tribe Coffee
String of riverside bars with live music in the evenings - Black Ant for Coffee
Pai -
Chaisongkran Rd for Bars
Mae Rim - By the pool
Tips -
Download the Maps.me app and all of the appropriate maps and use it to navigate everywhere
Check the map and fill up the petrol tank when necessary. Once or twice a trip there is always a section where you think you are going to run out.
Pump up the tyres quite hard. If you put your thumbs in the centre of the tread you should barely be able to push it in.
Don't be shy about using your horn to let people and animals know you are there
Always lock your bikes together.
Maps from GT riders are very handy as is their website
Pai gets very busy from November to January and prices can double or worse
Specialties -
Whatever is in season you will see displayed along the side of the road all ready prepared to eat, for you to pick up and enjoy.
Souvenirs - 🪃
Get your certificate to say you've negotiated the 1,864 bends in Mae Hong Son at the Tourist Office
Shan treats
Pick up some tea in Ban Rak Thai
Extra - ➕
Have a look at Bangkok and Chiang Mai in 'Cities'.
Chiang Mai has an International Airport with direct flights to cities in neighbouring countries - see in Airports above.
Have a look at the other Motorbike Loops. Thailand, Laos and Singapore in 'Countries'. Loy Krathong and Lao New Year in 'Festivals'.
Thakhek Loop
Itinerary - 📃
Bangkok 2N -
Nakhon Phanom 2N -
Thakhek 2N -
Nakai 1N - 60 km
Nam Theun 2N - 40 km
Na Hin 1N - 105 km
Ban Tiou 3N - 45 km
Na Hin 1N - 45 km
Thakhek 2N - 150 km
Nakhon Phanom 4N -
Lat Krabang 1N = 21N
Skill Level -
A reasonable level of competency would be good. It's not that difficult but there are a lot of little traps and pitfalls that can trip up an inexperienced rider. Things like potholes, loose gravel on corners, fallen rocks, kamikaze animals from chickens to water buffaloes and crazy bus and truck drivers. And inexperienced motorbike riders. They have quite a few accidents around here so be careful. The main road is sealed all of the way around but some of the side roads leading to attractions can be challenging.
When - ☀️
October to January is best - you don't want to be riding in the rain.
This trip is timed to coincide with the Lai Ruea Fai Festival (Fireboat or Illuminated Boat Procession) in Nakhom Phanom. Like most Thai festivals the dates are set according to the lunar calendar which changes every year. So when you pin them down book your hotel immediately. Normally it is towards the end of October.
The festival lasts for 9 days and includes Dragon boat races, street fairs, local food, music, cultural performances and of course the main event - the Fireboats. The last two days are the most exciting so time your trip to be around then.
Click here to find out more about the festival.
Famous - 🗼
UNESCO candidate - Wat Phra That Phanom - famous pilgrimage site.
Highlights -
Illuminated boats - Lai Ruea Fai Festival
The natural wonders of central Laos
Karst Topography - some of the best scenery in Laos - Jungles - Mountains - Drowned Forests
Caves - Elephant - Buddha - Dragon
The Drowned Forest
Buddhas carved into the road side rocks
Cool Pool - turquoise spring water
Bomb Boats - cruise on a missile (Fuel tank actually)
Phu Man the Rock Viewpoint - Stunning views of the Limestone forest and Reastaurant
Konglor Cave - the highlight of the Loop
Waterfalls and swimming holes
Getting there -
Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK) - 🛬
Fly in and out of Bangkok Airport. At the moment the only flight to Nakhon Phanom Airport is from DMK. Spend a couple of nights in Bangkok on arrival then just make your to the old airport north of the city.
On return there is a last night in a nice hotel in the Lat Krabang area around Suvarnabhumi Airport. Just jump on the inter airport shuttle from DMK when you arrive there. You'll be nice and relaxed for your flight out the next day. 10 minutes away by free shuttle.
Don Mueang International Airport (DMK) -
This is Bangkok's old airport and a lot of cheap domestic flights operate out of here. If you are flying out of here make sure your taxi driver knows which airport you're going to.
If you fly back here there is a free shuttle bus between the 2 airports that runs often and takes an hour or two depending on traffic. Your hotel will pick you up at the other end for free.
Nakhon Phanom Airport (KOP) -
Fly in and out of this pleasant little rural airport. There is a bus into town that will drop you off at your hotel.
Budget - 💴
Low - very cheap for everything and you can't spend money while you're riding. Great value hotels. So you'll be able to have the odd splurge :-)
Pack - 🛅
Light is usually best. You can leave your main pack at your accommodation so make sure you have a day pack big enough to keep you going for a week. You can wash your "smalls" in the shower as you go and wear the same smelly clothes on the bike each day. Because no one will be able to smell you as you ride along. Wear your "good clothes" out at night time.
Take a good head lamp for the caves.
Warm but light things such as thermal long johns and vest, gloves, hat and some light waterproof items. Those thick plastic garden bags are good for putting your pack in to keep it dry.
Octopus straps to secure your daypack. It's not much fun carrying it on your back all day. If you do have to lengthen the straps so that the seat takes the weight.
Crocs are great all rounders for caves, waterfalls, jungle trekking, slipping on and off outside temples & houses and wet slippery surfaces
A dry bag could come in handy for your valuables in some of the caves and other places you might want to keep your camera dry
Visas -
Thailand -
Grants many countries 60 days on arrival. When you cross back into Thailand some countries get 2 weeks as it is a land border and others get another month. If you want to spend more time in Thailand get a 2 month double entry tourist visa before you go.
Click here to double check everything.
Thailand has a new digital arrival card system called the TDAC. You will need to fill it out 3 days before each and every arrival. It's free so beware of scam sites trying to charge you. Click Here.
Laos -
A 30 day visa on arrival is easy to get at the border. Just catch a bus from Nakhon Phanom to the third Thai - Lao Friendship Bridge located at Ban Hom. You will need US $37 (Must be US cash and it always pays to keep them in mint condition) and a passport photo.
Starting Town -
Thakhek -
The town was founded in the early 1900's by the French as a colonial trading post. It has French colonial buildings and Chinese shop houses. Situated on the Mekong River and surrounded with great scenery it is blessed with fantastic views. Stay in a lovely colonial boutique hotel with a riverfront terrace restaurant and bar.
Have 2 nights here before and after the trip. That will give you plenty of time to organise the bikes and wind down when it's all over. Dont miss the sunsets on the Mekong and the riverside Night Market.
Rental - 🏍️
good bikes and information and close to the hotel - pick up a map
good bikes and offer roadside assistance - with cheaper prices
Mr Ku - who is credited with establishing the Loop - located at the Thakhek Travel Lodge which has a famous log book.
Look over the bike, take photos of any damage and make the owner aware of them before you hire.
Get a good helmet, preferably with a clear visor which is very important if it rains.
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Stay - 🛏️
Bangkok -
with a pool, by the river
Nakhon Phanom -
fantastic service and an international view from your bathroom
Thakhek -
le bouton d'or boutique hotel *** -
great location with a restaurant by the Mekong for wonderful sunsets
Nakai -
Sunset Resort & Restaurant Nakai
Thalang -
Riverside on stilts with a BBQ
If you want to experience a Home stay they are available in the village. Just look for the blue signs.
Na Hin -
excellent restaurant
Ban Tiou -
pure magic, go for the river view
Na Hin -
riverside with a great restaurant
Lat Krabang -
Suvarnabhumi Suite Hotel **** -
great value, 10 minutes to the airport on free shuttle, swimming pool, rooftop garden, restaurant and bar with live music, fitness centre and sauna, 5 minute walk to Suvarnabhumi Flea Market, street food, restaurants and clubs.
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About -
This trip goes at a pretty relaxing pace with plenty of time to stop and enjoy your surroundings. As they say Lao PDR stands for Please Don't Rush.
Fly in and out of BANGKOK and stay on the river near the Khao San Road area. It has everything you could ever need and a whole lot more. It is also close to the major attractions and very covenient for the ferries.
Spend a few nights in NAKHON PHANOM. You can either time your trip for the Fireboat Festival to be the start or end of your holiday. Or skip altogether it if it doesn't fit into your plans. It's a great little town and the wonderful scenery across the river will whet your anticipation for what is to come. You'll be coming back here on the way back as well so have a longer stay when the festival is on. If you can leave the festival for the end of the trip it would be a good way to finish things on a high.
Cross over to THAKHEK, stay by the river, spend a couple of nights, organise your bike and take the it out for a decent test ride. You could visit some of the caves and swimming holes marked for day one and save some time when you are on the loop.
The Pa Seuam Cave is a 3 km river cave where you can kayak through as a part of a 3 hour tour. It's near the Buddha Cave. Tham Nang Aen Cave (Biggest and most developed - coloured lights and underground boat tour which takes 2 hours). A visit to these two would fill in your day and it wouldn't be feasible to spend this much time at one attraction on the ride. So one of these would be a good option on your test ride.
DAY 1
Head off on the loop. If you don't have a licence take the back streets out of town to avoid a police scam. Check out what you haven't seen on "cave alley" and cool off at a swimming hole along the way. First stop is the Sunset Resort & Restaurant at NAKAI. They have bungalows, geodesic domes, a restaurant, swimming pool and a party boat. Relax here as long as you like because it is a very short day tomorrow.
DAYS 2 & 3
It's less than a hour to THALANG. On the way you could stop off and walk The Orchid Path a 900 metre trail that will take you up to the reservoir view point. Stay by the lake at Phosy Thalang Guesthouse in a bungalow with a balcony by the lake.
Up the road is the very popular Sabai Dee Guesthouse who have a nightly BBQ. It's a good place to go and meet other travellers. If you have a few spare days and want to go trekking into the Nakai Nam Thuen National Park they can organise it here. They have other tours as well to this newly opening up attraction. You have a couple of nights to relax in this laid back little place, so put your feet up. Head out onto the lake for a boat trip or catch a few fish for dinner.
DAY 4
Fill up the tank before you head out of town. The ride up to LAK SAO is slightly surreal as go through the flooded valley populated by dead trees. Look for the Buddhas carved into the rocks on the side of the road. Lak Sao is a good place to hit the ATM if you need it and have lunch. Or even better, wait for the restaurant at the Dragon Cave.
The next section of jungle covered karst is some of the best on the loop. First stop is the Dragon Cave then a cool down at the turquoise waters of the Cool Pool. At the village of Tha Bak you can hire a "Bomb Boat" (repurposed B-52 fuel tank) and go for a cruise. Fill up your tank before you head to your accommodation. Spend the night at the excellent Sanhak Guesthouse in NA HIN.
DAYS 5,6 & 7
A stunning ride down between towering limestone karsts surrounded by bright green rice paddies to the famous KONG LOR CAVE is a good way to start your day. Stay at the stunningly located SpringRiver Resort for a blissful 3 days. Plenty of time to see the cave and enjoy the wonderful accommodation. If you can lash out a bit and get the best room available. Definitely get a balcony overlooking the river if you can.
You can travel from the resort to the cave by boat along the river. If you feel like being active there is a lot to do to keep you entertained such as canoeing, cycling, swimming, hiking and a nearby village.
DAY 8
Time to leave paradise and get back on the loop. Have a late start if you like as you're only riding back to NA HIN today. Check in to your hotel on the way through. It has riverside bungalows, great food and is close to a little village.
If you're feeling energetic head up to the Nam Sanam Waterfall. Definitely take a guide and some good walking shoes and your bathers. It's a 1km ride and 2km difficult jungle trek. You'll need to set aside 3 hours for this. There is a swimming pool at the bottom then you can climb further up to see the full power of the falls. They should be flowing well at the end of the monsoon season.
An Australian traveller nearly died here in 2008 when a tropical down pour caused him to lose the path and become disorientated. Somehow he survived 11 days out in the elements before being rescued. It is an amazing story and a documentary has been made about it called Miracle in the Jungle.
You can watch it here. - And see why you should get a guide.
If you'd rather avoid all of that head straight to the Limestone Forest Viewpoint - known as the "Peak of the Loop". The views of one of Asia's largest limestone forests are sensational and there are zip lines, a spider net and canopy walks. There is a good restaurant here and it's a great place to be around sunset. Your hotel has a good restaurant too so that could be dinner and drinks later.
DAY 9
Last day on the loop today. It should take around 3 hours or so to get back to THAKHEK. It's back on the main road so it won't be as scenic as what your used to but it will be quicker and you'll complete the circle.
If you feel like a swim on the way back, Khun Kong Leng Lake is a beautiful spot to cool off. Unfortunately it's 20 km off of the highway. You'll see a sign about 30 km from Thakhek.
2 nights here in Thakhek to unwind and enjoy a few treats and get a massage or two. And a couple more Mekong sunsets accompanied by an icy cold Beer Lao or 2 or 3 or 4.....
Make your way back to Thailand and get into party mode. Fire boats, Walking Streets, Dragon Boat races, you'll soon see the Thai's know how to have a good time. It's called Sanuk (Fun) and you'll love it.
If you get the time there are a few sights you might want to see. Uncle Ho (Ho Chi Minh) used to live in a small village near here and you can visit his house and garden. One of the most sacred temples for Thai and Lao Buddhists is down the road. Wat Phra That Phanom contains Buddha's breastbone and it is considered a once in a lifetime opportunity to make a pilgrimage here. Those who have visited 7 times are considered children of the chedi and can expect good luck and prosperity to ensue. Even one visit is considered auspicious.
Fly back to Bangkok and have one last night in the area around the airport. You won't believe how cheap and good the hotels are. To keep you entertained there is a swimming pool and a ton of places to eat, drink and do a bit of last minute shopping. Plus free airport transfers.
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History -
The first Lao Kingdom was called Lan Xang (the land of the million elephants) in 1353. Over the years there were battles with all the neighbours - Chinese, Thai, Burmese, Khmer and the Vietnamese.
Lan Xang split into 3 kingdoms - Luang Prabang (north), Vientiane (central) and Champassak (south). When the French came along they united the 3 territories into one entity and called it Laos which became a part of French Indochina, along with Cambodia and Vietnam.
When the Vietnam War began Laos declared herself neutral but the USA conducted a "Secret War" and Laos became the most bombed country in the history of warefare.
The Communist Pathet Lao backed by North Vietnam took control of the country in 1975 forming the Lao Peoples Democratic Republic.
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See -
Bangkok -
If it's your first time a walking tour around Rattakosin Island (the Royal Palace, Emerald buddha etc) would be a good idea. If you've been before a day at Ko Kret or Bang Kachao, two of Bangkok's riverine islands might be the trick. Have a look at Bangkok in Cities and also in the start of the Thailand trips.
Nakhon Phanom -
Wat Phra That Phanom
Ho Chi Minh's House
The Big Naga
The Former Governor's Residence - where King Rama IX and the Queen spent the night
3D footpath art
Thakhek -
Wat Phathat Si Khottabong - is an important temple and pilgrimage site in Laos by the Mekong.
Nakai - Buy petrol at Gnommalat before you go up the hill to Nakai
Enroute - Cave alley including the Elephant Cave (locals sheltered here during the secret (illegal) war) / Buddha Cave (229 staues and 8 kms of bad road) / Tham Pha Nya Inh Cave (Holy cave with sacred turquoise water - no swimming) / Tha Falang (swimming hole favoured by the French in Colonial times - lock the bikes and look after your stuff) / Tham Nang Aen Cave (Biggest and most developed - coloured lights and underground boat tour which takes 2 hours)
Thalang - Fill up the tank before you leave
Enroute - Orchid Path a 900 metre trail that will take you up to the reservoir view point / 16km north are 2 traditional weaving villages Ban Nam Nian and Ban Sobia
Na Hin - Fill up at Lak Sao & Fill up @ Na Hin on last day of the loop
Enroute - the Drowned Forest / carved Buddhas / Dragon Cave ( has a restaurant, cafe, gift shop - it is well lit and you can walk in one end and out the other) / Cool Pool (there are food stalls outside) / Bomb Boats (For hire at Tha Bak)
Ban Tiou -
a thrilling 7.5 km boat ride through a limestone mountain to remote villages out the other side. A short walking section is illuminated to have a look at some of the features while the rest of the cave is dark. So a good head lamp will be useful here and in all the caves. It takes around an hour to get through to the other side of the cave. You can rent a bicycle and follow a marked route through the villages on the other side. You could spend an hour or so looking around and having a feed.
Lat Krabang -
an old canal side community from the Rama V days that has been turned into an art market
Do -
Bangkok -
Nakhon Phanom -
Ride a bike along the river promenade and enjoy the scenery across the river. Have a workout on the public gym equipment along the way
Plant rice at Khao khun Mae
Thakhek -
Test ride the bike and visit the time consuming caves nearby
Go for a swim
Nakai -
Visit the Tad Song Sou waterfall - with cabanas, restaurant and bar
Visit the Nam Theun 2 Visitor Centre near the waterfall and learn the official story about the dam and the hydro electric plant that exports power to Thailand. Ride around the reservoir for the scenic view of dead trees sticking up through the water
Visit the local market
Thalang -
Boat trips, Fishing and Picnics on the reservoir
Boat trip down the river into the jungle for remote villages and swimming holes - ask at your guesthouse
Na Hin -
Visit the Limestone Forest Viewpoint
Hike up to the Nam Sanam waterfall
Ban Tiou -
Water sports / swimming / canoeing
Visit the local villge
Relax on your balcony
Lat Krabang -
Eat, Swim, Drink, Shop. Reminisce
Sky Lane aka the Happy and Healthy Bike Lane -
23.5 km bright blue (regular) and purple (fast) bike tracks around the airport hoping to become one of the world's best. Lots of facilities like cafes, food halls and bathrooms. Also there is a kids fun riding park, outdoor fitness centre and other innovations. Can hire a bike and a helmet. Plus 1.5 km jogging track on low impact rubber.
Have a massage or spa treatment
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Eat -
Bangkok -
Karim Roti Mataba - near the hotel
Krua Apsorn - on the walking tour
Mont Nom Sod - for smoko - close to Krua Apsorn
Ghost Gate - Raan Jay Fai (Crab omelette) and Thip Samai - (Pat Thai in omelette) - famous eateries
Chinatown / Somboon Seafood / nahm / Charoen Krung Road - (near the main Sathorn Ferry Pier)
Nakhon Phanom -
Aunt Kaew's Noodles
North of the town centre are some places with decks overlooking the Mekong
Thanks to a local population of Vietnamese there is good Vietnamese food to be had here like Good Morning Vietnam for example.
Thakhek -
Riverside Night Market
Good Pizza at your hotel
Nakai -
Sam Sep Restaurant - waterfront terrace, cordon bleu and Lao BBQ (Sindad)
Thalang -
Sabaidee Guesthouse has a nightly BBQ buffet
Loop Cafe & Restaurant - near the Cool Pool
Na Hin -
Sin Dat Bo Ing Hot Pot - Lao BBQ
Soup Lady - Noodle soups
Kop Jai Der Restaurant at Phu Man the Rock Viewpoint - zip line and spider net - 15 mins and 10 km west of Na Hin - spectacular views
Sainamhai Resort - Your place
Ban Tiou -
Your place or head into town for a change
Lat Krabang -
Suvarnabhumi Outdoor / Flea Market - an up and coming world street food destination
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Drink - 🍾
Bangkok -
Locally around Khao San Road and the Banglamphu area
Head out to one of the famous areas like Sukkhumvit or RCA
Nakhon Phanom -
During the festival you wont even have to think about it
At other times the riverside bars near the Night Market and after midnight is AEC Pub
Thakhek -
Six Friends Restaurant - cheap beer
Le Rendez Vous - popular indoor outdoor pub
Nakai -
At your Resort
Thalang -
Sabaidee Guesthouse has a bonfire and drinks after the BBQ buffet
Your place
Na Hin -
Bob's Bar - very close to your guesthouse
Ban Tiou -
Bar at the resort - riverside
Lat Krabang -
Rooftop of your hotel - or head out into the street and follow your nose
All Six to Twelve x En/r/oute - breakfast to late night with live music
Eat, Drink, Love - all you can drink house wine and local beer
Sky Bar 64 - overlooking the airport's runways
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Sundowners - 🍹
Bangkok -
Amorosa Bar - At Arun Residence opposite Wat Arun
Sky Bar - the one from the Hangover 2 movie - dress requirements - have a Hangovertini
Nakhon Phanom -
Sunset Cruise on the River's Cruise boat
Thakhek -
The riverside restaurant at your hotel and other waterfront bars
The floating restaurant
Nakai -
Sunset Resort & Restaurant - your accommodation
The Ghost Boat - food and drinks looking over dead trees coming out of the water
Thalang -
Sunset or Sunrise cruise on the reservoir
Na Hin -
The Limestone Forest Viewpoint
Ban Tiou -
The terrace bar at your resort
Lat Krabang -
Ploen Ploen Restaurant - sunset over the lake
Your hotel's rooftop bar
The Happy and Healthy Bike Lane
Tips -
Always lock your bikes securely and together any time they are out of your sight.
Definitely get travel insurance and read the fine print to make sure you are covered riding a bike.
Book your hotel very early if you are going to the festival in Nakhon Phanom. If you do it on Booking.com you should be able to get free cancellation up to almost the arrival date and pay when you get there. Breakfast included. It's a great hotel but not that close to the centre of town so you might want to have a scooter or bicycle available for your use. They should be able to help you out with this. There is a 7-11 next door at the petrol station for drinks and treats.
Get enough money in Thakhek to last the loop.
Crocs are very good for getting around wet caves and waterfalls
Safety -
Slow is safe. You will encounter many hazards along the way and the slower you are going the more chance you will survive them. Pot holes, animals, mad bus and truck drivers etc. On the roads in Asia there is one rule. Smaller things give way to bigger things. At least on a bike you have plenty of room to get out of the way.
Never ride out in the countryside at night time. Don't ride if you've been drinking. Wear shoes and a helmet. Check that your tyres are pumped up very firmly. Get petrol often. Check your bike out well before hiring it.
Don't let this scare you off what is a fantastic experience. Just bring your common sense with you and use it.
Specialties -
Bangkok -
Moo Ping (chargrilled marinated pork on a stick), Khao Niaw (sticky rice) and Som Tam (Spicy Green Papaya salad). The latter two aren't originally from Bangkok but from where you are headed, the northeast and Laos. Eaten together they make the perfect meal. Get the pork from a street vendor and take it to a restaurant that does a great som tam. It likely evovled in Laos where they call it Tam Som so you're likely to be trying a few different versions of it over the journey
Another good use for sticky rice is to pair it with with mango to make a delicious dessert called Khao Niaw Mamuang.
Souvenirs - 👔
Bangkok -
Jim Thompson Silk / Carved soap / Weird T-shirts
Nakhon Phanom -
Wat Thra That Phanom is surrounded by souvenir shops
Fire Boat replicas
Thai Fair sarong
Thakhek -
Beer Lao T-shirt / Lao Lao
Thalang -
Weavings
Lat Krabang -
I love Lat Krabang fridge magnet
Extra -
See Thailand and Laos in Countries