COUNTRY GUIDE

Nanjing - City of Emperors - Sun 23 Aug 4 Nights

 

• Day 1 arrive, settle, relax, orientate, eat, drink

• Day 2 city attractions

• Day 3 Purple Mountain

• Day 4 the lake walk

• Day 5 anything not done then head to Shanghai

Nanjing is one of the most attractive cities of mainland China with many historical buildings and monuments, lush verdant parks, natural scenic lakes, and relics that attract thousands of visitors each year.

Nanjing served as the capital city of 10 dynasties and regimes over more than 1,800 years and is home to some of China's most significant historical attractions, including the Xiaoling Tomb of the Ming Dynasty, Dr. Sun Yat-sen's Mausoleum, the Presidential Palace and the City Wall, which dates back more than 600 years.

Here, past dynasties are alive and well, entwined with glittering modern skyscrapers. The misty Purple Mountain looms in the distance and the Ningzheng Ridge forms a crescent around this city in the heart of the Yangtze River delta.

It has many historical sites including Ming tombs that are on the UNESCO World Heritage List. It was most recently the capital of China under the Kuomintang, from 1927 until their retreat to Taiwan in 1949, and is still officially the capital of Republic of China (Taiwan), which retreated to Taiwan but still declares itself the sole legitimate government of China. With a current urban population of approximately 8 million people, Nanjing is an important centre for commerce and trade in Eastern China.

In the middle of the 16th century, Italian missionary, Matteo Ricci, said, “This city is more than all other world cities” and at the time he was very correct in saying so. During that period Nanjing was one of the largest cities in the world, with one of the longest histories.

About - 8.25 million

NANJING, China – Globalization and the ease of information sharing can make it difficult to find an authentic travel experience that everyone hasn't already posted on Instagram. But Nanjing, a city of ancient greatness transformed in modern times, offers just that. This Chinese city in the Yangtze River Delta is the real deal.

Nanjing, one of the nation's most important cities for over a thousand years, combines all the creature comforts of a sophisticated metropolis with a uniquely untouched Eastern culture. Just don't expect the secret to stay quiet much longer. The word is out, and the path is being cleared.

With a population that's roughly the same size as New York City, Nanjing's urban center has all the city comforts: luxury and boutique hotels, nightlife happenings, incredible upscale dining options, street food galore on Shizaiqiao Food Street, an emerging hipster scene, even urban gardens. But it also has historical sites dating back many centuries and cultural celebrations and festivals unique to the area.

The Soongs

 

The Soong sisters, one loved power, one loved money and one loved China.

Charles Jones Soong February 1863 – May 3, 1918 was a Chinese businessman who first achieved prominence as a Methodist missionary in Shanghai. He was a close friend of Sun Yat-sen and a key player in the events that led to the Xinhai Revolution in 1911. His children became some of the most prominent people in the history of the People's Republic of China and the Republic of China.

Soong family - influential Chinese family that was heavily involved in the political fortunes of China during the 20th century. Among its best-known members were Charlie, the founder of the family, and his children T.V. Soong, financier and politician; Soong Mei-ling, who became Madame Chiang Kai-shek (Jiang Jieshi); and Song Qingling (Soong Ch’ing-ling), who married Sun Yat-sen.

Soong had all of his children educated in the United States. After her return to China, his eldest child, Ai-ling (1890–1973), acted as a secretary to Sun until her marriage to banker and businessman H.H. K’ung in 1914.

Qingling, Soong’s second child, replaced Ai-ling as secretary and in 1914 married Sun Yat-sen, who was 26 years her senior. Both H.H. K’ung and Charlie Soong’s third child, T.V. Soong, were financially significant forces in the advancement of Sun Yat-sen and the Nationalist cause in China and the United States. After Sun’s death in 1925, the Nationalist Party split into factions. The group led by Sun’s widow, Qingling, was eventually overshadowed by the faction led by Chiang Kai-shek, who in 1927 married Soong Mei-ling, Charlie Soong’s fourth child. (The two youngest of Soong’s children, T.L. and T.A., became bankers.) T.V. Soong became an influential member of Chiang’s Nationalist government and, with his sister Mei-ling, was extremely important in Chinese foreign relations. Qingling remained opposed to Chiang’s government; when the communists established the People’s Republic in 1949, they granted Qingling high, though largely symbolic, status. Thereafter, the power of the Soong family began to dissipate.

The Soong sisters were the clever daughters of Charlie Soong, an American-educated Methodist missionary in Shanghai, who made a fortune printing Chinese-language bibles. At that time, China was unsafe, so Charlie sent his daughters to Wesleyan College in the United States to finish their education.

Ai-ling (1890-1973), the eldest, was an outspoken tomboy with a talent for business. On her return to Shanghai, she worked as a secretary for Dr Sun Yat-sen, the leader of the revolution that established the Republic of China in 1911. Two years later, however, a second revolution forced the Soongs to flee to Japan, where Ai-ling married H.H. Kung, the son of a wealthy Chinese banking family. They returned to China where, by the 1930s, Kung had become its richest man. He and Ai-ling had four children.

Ai-ling was also an active supporter of Chiang Kai-shek's right-wing Kuomintang Party, while her husband held important positions in the Nationalist government. After the fall of the KMT in 1949, she and her husband moved to the US, where she continued to energetically support Chiang's cause until her death in 1973.

Ching-ling (1893-1981) was Ai-ling's opposite. She was a shy, thoughtful student with idealistic beliefs in Chinese nationalism. After Ai-ling's marriage, Ching-ling replaced her as secretary to Sun. Despite a 27-year age gap, she married him, becoming his most devoted supporter.

After Sun's death, Ching-ling was elected to the Kuomintang's central executive committee. But when the Communists were expelled from the party in 1927, she denounced its right-wing leader Chiang Kai-shek for betraying Sun's legacy, and left China.

When she returned, she was shocked to discover her younger sister May-ling had married Chiang, opening a major rift between the sisters, which was never resolved.

Ching-ling remained in China after 1949, serving as vice-chairperson of the People's Republic until 1975 and working for children's welfare and women's equality. Just two weeks before her death in 1981, she was named the first and only honorary president of the PRC.

May-ling (1898-2003) was the headstrong charmer of the family. She threw herself into her husband Chiang's political campaigns, and set up charitable organisations. At the outbreak of the Sino-Japanese War in 1937, she persuaded the warring factions in China to unite, and for a time, she and her sisters worked together for Chinese liberation. She raised a lot of money for China in the US during WWll.

But after the Japanese surrender in 1945, the Communists and the KMT resumed their civil war, with Ching-ling siding with the former and her sisters with the latter. In 1949, when Mao Zedong established the People's Republic of China, Chiang and May-ling fled to Taiwan, where Chiang set up his military government. May-ling continued to play a major role in international affairs until Chiang's death in 1975. She died in New York in 2003 at the ripe old age of 106.

Mao famously said of the sisters: "One loved money, one loved power and one loved her country". You decide who was which!

Ai-ling's English name was Nancy; Ching-ling's was Rosamonde; and May-ling's was ... May-ling!  In the late 1960s, May-ling was voted one of America's most admired women.

Climate

Nanjing has a humid subtropical climate, influenced by the East Asian Monsoon. It is one of the 3 members of China's Three Furnaces along with Wuhan and Chongqing, both of them known for their hot and muggy summers with Nanjing being no exception. The average July temperature is 28.1°C. Daily highs usually surpass 32°C which along with the the humidity (80%), can make the heat unbearabale.

The city enjoys pleasant weather for about 280 days. The end of June marks the beginning of ‘Rainy Plum Season’ in Nanjing. The best time to visit Nanjing is the period between September – November. Summer in the city lasts from the month of May to September.

Transport

Huangshan North Railway Station - Fast train via Hefei

Huangshan North Railway Station (Huangshan Bei Train Station, 黄山北站) is located in Xixinan Town, Huizhou District, Huangshan City in Anhui Province (安徽省黄山市徽州区西溪南镇).

There are three main train stations in Nanjing: Nanjing Railway Station, Nanjing West Railway Station, and Nanjing South Railway Station.

Nanjing South Railway Station (Nanjing Nan Zhan南京南站) is a high-speed railway station, located at 98 Yulan Road, Yuhua Terrace District, Nanjing, Jiangsu. The station has 28 platforms with 28 lines.

Nanjing South Railway Station has a total of five floors. On the two underground floors are the Nanjing Metro and shops. The first floor is for passenger arrivals and departures, and goods handling, the second floor is platforms and the third floor is the waiting halls.

Take the metro to your nearest stop.

 

Huangshan North Railway Station Train Schedule

Nanjing      G7452, G7192, G7314, G1604...

5 departures from 07:33 to 19:02  3h21m - 5h23m        CNY 382/ 232.5

USD 56/ 34

Fast trains from 3hrs 23mins to normal trains 6hrs 30 mins

Fast trains about double price with 2nd class US$32 / $45 and hard sleeper US$15

Fast trains go to Nanjing South from Huangshan North

Normal trains go from Huangshan station back in Tunxi to Nanjing

Orientate

Metro Line 1 of Nanjing metro has 31 stations. It primarily runs in a north-south direction. Starting north from Maigaoqiao station it heads southwards towards Andemen station. From there the line 1 metro splits and the main line heads westwards towards the Olympic Stadium station. The branch line goes further southwards and ends up in China Pharmaceutical University station. Line 2 of Nanjing metro has 26 stations and runs in an east-west direction. Eighteen of its stations are underground. The remaining eight are either elevated or ground-level stations. Minimum Fare: RMB 2 per person (1-8 stops)

Get Around

Nanjing has an excellent metro system, with single journey tickets costing from ¥2. City buses charge a flat fare of ¥2.

 

Taxi

Taxis are reliable and tipping is not expected, but few drivers will speak English, so have your hotel staff write down your destinations for you in Chinese. Meter drop is ¥11 and then ¥4.20 per mile.

Taxis plying between 05:00 - 23:00: RMB 9 (for first 3km), and RMB 2.40 (per kilometer thereafter). Moreover, RMB 1 is added every time as tax. Taxis plying between 23:00 - 05:00: RMB 9 (for first 3km), and RMB 2.70 (per kilometer thereafter). RMB 1 would be added every time as tax.

 

Jinlingtong

If you're staying more than a few days it's worth buying a Jinlingtong (also known as IC-tong). These are available from any metro station, most bus termini and from any branch of Huaxia Bank (look for an information window displaying the letters 'IC'). The card costs Y75 and contains Y25 refundable deposit and Y50 credit, and can be topped up at the aformentioned locations. The card can be used on the metro, all city buses (but not all suburban buses), cross-river ferries, taxis (although drivers are reluctant to accept them and may tell you the scanner is broken) and in some Suguo convenience stores.

 

By taxi

Taxis are a great way to get around and most trips will cost less than ¥25. The taxi driver should start the meter as soon as you are picked up (starting at ¥9); if the taxi driver doesn't start using the meter and you don't say anything he/she may assume you don't know any better and overcharge you at the end of your journey. Ask for a printed receipt detailing the taxi number, kilometres travelled, times, and money exchanged from the driver upon exiting the taxi.

 Don't expect to get a taxi during both the morning and afternoon rush hours; demand is high and the drivers make their shift changes around these times, too. Tipping is not expected in taxis in China, so the price on the meter is the price you should pay. Unlike taxi drivers in Beijing or Shanghai (who frequently shuttle foreigners around and may be accustomed to gratuity under the table) tipping in Nanjing is an alien concept. You are likely to befuddle but please a driver by insisting that they accept additional 'free' money. As with anywhere else in China, you are very unlikely to get a driver who speaks any English, so unless you speak Mandarin remember to get your hotel's business card and get hotel staff to write down your destination names in Chinese to show your taxi driver before you set off.

 

By metro

The metro is a clean, cheap, safe and fast way of getting from A to B quickly - the system has 6 lines and covers most of the central city and most important suburbs. The lines are as follows: Line 1 runs from Maigaoqiao in the north, via the railway station and along the length of Zhongshan Lu through the city centre to Andemen - from there the line splits with alternate services going to the Olympic New Town area around the Olympic Sports Centre and to the south towards China Pharmaceutical University via the new South High-Speed train station. Services between Maigaoqiao and Andemen run every 3 minutes, and every 6 minutes on each branch line. Line 2 runs from the new town area in the west and follows Hanzhong Lu and Zhongshan Donglu to the east, terminating nearby the Purple Mountain scenic area. Trains run every 6 to 8 minutes. There are interchanges to Line 1 at Yuantong and Xinjiekou stations. Line 3 runs from the new town area in the northside of yangtze river and goes to Jiangning area to the south. Line 10 runs from the andemen station and to the northside of yangtze river via Jiangxin Island. Line S1 runs from Nanking Lukou Airport to Nanking South Railway station. Line S8 runs from the new town area in the northside of yangtze river to the Jinniuhu station(close to the border with Tianchang city of Anhui Province.

Trains run from approx. 5am to 11pm. Single-journey tokens cost between 2 and 12 CNY depending on distance and can be purchased from vending machines in the station. Stored-value tickets are also available (see above) and give a 5% discount and ￥0.4 discount when transfering to bus within 1 hour.

 

By bicycle

Nanjing is fairly cycle-friendly with segregated bike lanes on most busy roads - however there are a lot of bikes on the road so care should be taken. Generally, the pace is quite slow, and some of the hills in the central-west part of the city can be tiring to climb (but fun and a little scary to descend). Although it's possible to cycle up the Purple Mountain, it should be tackled in the early morning as the roads will be crammed with fast-moving bus and taxi traffic for most of the day, and the roads are narrow with no bike lanes. The bike/pedestrian path around the edge of Xuanwu Lake is a popular place for cyclists, as well as a popular racing ground for local motorcyclists - take care on the many blind corners.

Bikes can be rented from most youth hostels - ensure that the tires are pumped up and the brakes work before setting off though.

Buying a bike is relatively easy and cheap - the best option is to get a good quality used (possibly stolen) bike from the bike markets around Tangzi Jie (behind the Sheraton hotel) for ¥100-200. The cheap bikes sold in department stores and supermarkets are very poor quality and shouldn't be relied upon. For higher-quality, higher-performance bikes; Giant, Trek and Specialized all have stores in Nanjing. Rembember to carry a strong lock - bike theft is common.

Tips

• Nanjing means "southern capital" (versus Beijing meaning "northern capital".)

• The Nanjing Tourist Information Centre is conveniently placed at Confucius Temple.

• Tipping is not common practice in Nanjing.

• The city pass can be bought for ¥230 at the entrance to any of the big parks in the city, such as the zoo or Yuhuatai Memorial Park and provides you with free entry to 21 different locations including Purple Mountain but excluding the Confucius Temple and some other temples. You need to provide a passport photo for each pass and they are valid for one calendar year.

• Hygiene standards are pretty high in the city so the chances of getting an infectious disease are very little.

• The Jiangsu Provincial People’s Hospital has a special wing for foreigners, manned by doctors and health staff speaking good English. For minor health problems, every hotel in Nanjing provides a doctor on call.

• Take the usual precautions when crossing the road and also remember that right turns on a red light are sometimes legal in China

• Also be careful of motorbikes and bicycles driving on the pavement.

• Good news! Nanjing is now officially the safest city in China - this was the honour of Hangzhou until a recent rise in hotel robberies put Hangzhou in the headlines.

Stay - Near Shanghai Lu Bar Area

Most of Nánjīng’s accommodation is midrange to top end in price and it's very hard to score a bargain. Cheaper guesthouses will not take foreigners, but you can try your luck.

 

Air BnB looks best - lots in the right spot

 

Nan Jing Cheng Yuan Hotel $54 dbl

Located in Nanjing, 4.2 km from Confucius Temple, Nan Jing Cheng Yuan Hotel offers express check-in and check-out and free WiFi. The property is around 4.3 km from Xuanwu Lake, 5 km from Qinhuai River and 8 km from Ming Tomb. The accommodation provides a 24-hour front desk and room service for guests.

All units are equipped with air conditioning, a fridge, a stovetop, a kettle, a shower, a hairdryer and a desk. At the hotel every room is fitted with a wardrobe and a flat-screen TV.

Popular points of interest near Nan Jing Cheng Yuan Hotel include Nanjing University, Nanjing Wutaishan Sports Centre and Nanjing Southeast University.

Gu Lou is a great choice for travellers interested in food, history and old town exploring. Location is very good near shopping area , MRT

 

Jinjiang Inn Nanjing Xinjiekou *** $49 Business dbl

Jinjiang Inn Nanjing Xinjiekou features air-conditioned rooms with cable flat-screen TV in the Qin Huai district of Nanjing. The property is around 3.1 km from Confucius Temple, 3.4 km from Qinhuai River and 6 km from Xuanwu Lake. The property is located 2.9 km from Nanjing University and 8 km from Terrace of Raining Flowers.

With a private bathroom, rooms at the hotel also offer free WiFi. At Jinjiang Inn Nanjing Xinjiekou each room comes with bed linen and towels.

Qin Huai is a great choice for travellers interested in ancient landmarks, street food and museums.

 

Jinjiang Inn Select Nanjing Hanzhongmen *** $59 Bus dbl C

Jinjiang Inn Select Nanjing Hanzhongmen is set in the Jian Ye district in Nanjing, 3 km from Confucius Temple. Guests can enjoy the on-site restaurant.

Each room at this hotel is air conditioned and comes with a flat-screen TV. You will find a kettle in the room. Rooms are fitted with a private bathroom equipped with a shower. You will find a 24-hour front desk at the property.

 

Jinling Mansion Nanjing **** B$4  $54 std twin

Situated opposite scenic Mochou Lake, Jinling Mansion Nanjing offers elegant rooms with free wired internet. A 10-minute walk from Mochouhu Station Line 2, it features a Chinese restaurant and tour desk.

For leisure, enjoy soothing massages or explore Nanjing’s attractions with an organised tour. Staff can assist with business and ticketing needs. Free Wi-Fi is available in the hotel's lobby.

Gu Lou is a great choice for travellers interested in food, history and old town exploring.

 

Local home (Nanjing Xinjiekou) $66 dbl

At the hotel all rooms are fitted with a seating area.

Popular points of interest near Local home (Nanjing Xinjiekou) include Nanjing University, Nanjing Southeast University and 1912 Bar Street.

 

Brekky

Sesame pastry made with duck fat

In Nanjing, duck fat is harvested to make a truly special pastry.

This traditional and beloved street snack is a popular breakfast for Nanjingers. It's anointed with a slab of duck fat, giving off an aroma and flakey textures balanced out by a sesame-encrusted layer.

Baked in batches, these pastries can be found throughout Fuzimiao, an ancient Confucian temple complex located on the banks of the historic Qinhuai River that's also a popular shopping and food market.

 

Fried Spring Onion Pancake

This is a kind of fried pastry that is filled with shallot, meat and other ingredients and usually covered with a pastry crust. It is also a popular breakfast snack. The best place to taste it is Liu Feng Ju.

Smoko

Tea has been a central part of China’s heritage for over 4,000 years. First attested to the legendary pioneer of Chinese agriculture, Shennong, tea preparation in China is an artistic ritual requiring the utmost etiquette, attention to detail, finesse, and hospitality. Nanjing is one of China’s tea capitals, with specialist tea markets brimming with hundreds of aromatic varieties, a signature tea leaf so difficult to prepare that only a handful of masters can produce it by hand, and a culture of tea-serving that is as intoxicating to observe as the tea is delicious to drink.

Yu Hua - Nanjing’s Premier Tea

Nanjing’s most sought-after leaf, Yu Hua, originates from the surrounding Jiangsu province. Its name translates to “Rain Flower,” and is a nod to a legendary local Buddhist monk whose teachings caused flowers to fall from the sky. Yu Hua has a complex taste that intensifies as it brews. Refreshing and flowery, your first sips will be light and silky, before the hot water unlocks sweeter, more floral flavours.

The Chinese Tea Ceremony and Where to Experience It

Principally associated with Japan, the highly meticulous and ordered tea ceremony actually owes its origins to ancient China. The Chinese tea ceremony, in its most basic form, is a scientific operation designed to maximize the flavours of the tea leaves being enjoyed. Specialist tea-ware is a must, with shapes painstakingly designed to retain flavour. The ceremony itself is a complex series of brewings, each set of leaves undergoing as many as seven to unlock the full spectrum of their flavours. To experience the majesty—and resulting delectability—of this ceremony, visit Nanjing’s best teahouses:

Lao Cui teahouse is perhaps Nanjing’s most famous. Located inside the historic Nanjing city walls, the teahouse has a speakeasy vibe that wouldn’t be out of place in the East Village. That said, the interior décor speaks traditional, with elegantly carved, low-set wooden tables and xitan horseshoe chairs.

For those preferring a more modern aesthetic, Tao Hua Yan is housed in a marble-and-glass hall overlooking a verdant forest in the hot springs complex just out of town. Its interior, faithfully bamboo, modernises the tea ceremony with bold ox-bow tables and spacious vistas provided by floor-to-ceiling glass panes.

 

Mao Kong Mao Kong is known for its creamy cappuccino, light lunches, and delicious pastries. The tea at Mao Kong also has an excellent flavour. This quiet place near to Nanjing University stays open very late. Opening Hours: Sun - Thu 09:00 - 02:00, Fri - Sat 09:00 - 05:00 Address: 152-1 Shanghai Road, Nanjing

 

Plum Cake

Originating in the Ming Dynasty, plum cake is a traditional Nanjing dessert which has been popular for a long time in the Jiangnan region, the south of the lower reaches of Yangtze River. The cake is baked in a plum-shaped mold and filled with stuffings ranging from bean paste to minced pork. The colorful dried fruit toppings make it even more attractive.

Tasting guide: Many street stands still offer this, but for an authentic taste, hit the corner of Maitai Street and Tongjia Lane for the delicacy by Master Zuo (左师傅梅花糕).

See

 

The Memorial Hall of the Nanjing Massacre -  aka -  Memorial Hall of the Victims in Nanjing Massacre by Japanese Invaders (侵华日军南京大屠杀遇难同胞纪念馆).

Take subway line 2 and get off at the station of Yunjin Lu (云锦路) and exit at Exit 2. When you exit from the subway station, you will see a huge architecture built of grey marble.

This is the Massacre Museum. You should enter Gate 1, first visit the Exhibition Area, then the Site Square, the Mass Grave of 10000 Corpses and finally the Peace Park. You are advised to exit from the Gate 2 and get back to the subway Station of Yunjin Lu (云锦路).

Try to avoid weekends and holidays and get to there earlier to beat the crowds. Each day there are a huge number of visitors coming to the museum.

 

Nanjing, a picturesque city in northeast China within a period of five months. Marching southwards, they launched all-out offensives on Shanghai and Nanjing, the seat of governmentas the capital of ten dynasties in ancient China, its splendour has remained and even enlarged with an extended population up to 600,000 when the government of the Republic of China set up its capital there in 1927. Having served an outrageous and well-prepared war of aggression was started by Japan on Sep 13, 1931. Receiving no resistance from the government of the Republic of China, the troops of the Japanese aggressor occupied the three provinces of starting a nightmarish holocaust that transformed the paradise into a hell on earth.

On Dec 13, 1937, the Japanese army occupied Nanjing and during the following six weeks bore witness to the inhumane disgrace and bloody massacre exerted on the city. No less than 300,000 innocent civilians and unarmed Chinese soldiers were brutally slaughtered in mass and individual beheadings, burying alive, burning, and killing races. More than 20,000 women were raped and many were then killed. A third of the architectures together with their contents were damaged by fire and countless shops, stores and residences were looted and sacked. Corpses were seen floating on rivers and littered the streets and lanes. Whether they were children or the aged, from residents to nuns, few could escape from the savage atrocity.

The Memorial Hall of the Nanjing Massacre is a hall to memorialize those that were killed in the Nanjing Massacre by the imperial Japanese Army in and around Nanjing in December of 1937. It is located in the southwestern corner of Nanjing known as Jiangdongmen. The building is designed in black and white granite blocks, giving a feeling of solemnity and reverence. It consists of three parts: the outdoor exhibits, the remaining bones of the killed and the museum for historical material displaying. It shows the tragic history of Nanjing. You’d better choose a grey or rainy day and take a deep breath when visit this site.

How to get to Memorial Hall to the Victims in the Nanjing Massacre

1. Take metro line 2 and get off at Yunjin Road. Leave from exit 2 and walk westwards to get there.

2. Take bus 7, 37, 61, 63, 161, 166, 170, or 186 to Shuiximen Dajie Jiangdongmen.

3. Take bus G3 or G6 to Jiangdongmen Jinianguan.

Nanjing Bus / Metro Search

 

Presidential Palace - 40 CNY

The palace is located at 292 Changjiang Road in the Xuanwu District of Nanjing. You may take subway line 2 and get off at the station of Da Xing Gong (大行宫) and exit from the Exit 1.

Then walk north along Taiping North Road (north-south) and soon come across Changjiang Road (east-west). Turn right and cross Changjiang Road, you will see the entrance to Nanjing Presidential Palace.

March 1853, the Taiping Revolution forces led by Hong Xiuquan took Nanjing. The palace was renovated and became Hong’s Palace. Later the armed forces of Taiping Heaven Kingdom was destroyed by Qing Military forces and many buildings were damaged and burned.

In October 1911, the Xinhai Revolution broke out. Sun Yat-sen was declared as the provisional President of the Republic of China at the Presidential Palace on January 01,1912. The following 5 years saw China falling into Warlord Era till 1927 when the Kuomintang’s Northern Expedition took Nanjing and turned it into the Office of the Nationalist Government.

During the Anti-Japanese Wall (1937–1945), Kuomintang government left Nanjing and moved its capital to Chongqing. The building of the Presidential Palace was captured by Wang Jingwei who collaborated with the Japanese. After Japanese surrender in 1945, Chiang Kai-shek’s Nationalist Government retook the building.

Presidential Palace is now a museum, the China Modern History Museum. It includes the former offices of many top government officials, including Chiang Kai-shek and Sun Yat-sen. Travelers could still see the flag of Kuomingtang flying. The history of Presidential Palace can date back 600 years, and it was the location of the first Ming Palace.

 

The Confucius Temple (夫子庙)

Built as the site to worship the great Chinese thinker Confucius and to study his philosophy, the shrine known as Fuzi Miao, has been a local cultural centre since its establishment in 1034. This is one of the oldest structures in Nanjing history.

Its authority peaked in the Ming Dynasty when it served as the imperial examination hall.

The incense-filled temple was destroyed several times over its history. Nanjings government revamped the 26,300 square-meter complex in 1984, which now contains a massive bronze Confucius statue, standing 4.18 meters high and weighing two and a half tons.

Confucius Temple, 1 Qinhong Road, Fuzi Miao Pedestrian Street, Qinhuai District秦淮区夫子庙景区步行街秦虹路1号; admission: RMB 30 (US$4.8); open Monday-Thursday 9:00 a.m.-10:00 p.m., Friday-Sunday: 9:00 a.m.-10:30 p.m.

 

Ming City Walls

Visitors are permitted to stroll along the 600-year-old wall at three former gates: Zhonghuamen (RMB34 or US$5.5), Taicheng (RMB15 or US$2.4) and Shitoucheng (free).

Běijīng will be forever haunted by the 20th-century felling of its magnificent city walls. Xī’ān’s mighty Tang dynasty wall is a mere memory. Even Shànghǎi’s modest city wall came down in 1912. The same story repeats across China, where if a wall survives at all, it may just be an earthen mound.

The most absolute remnant of Nánjīng’s Ming dynasty apogee, the imposing, five-storey Ming bastion, which measures over 35km, is the longest city wall ever built. About two-thirds of it still stands.

Built between 1366 and 1393, by more than one million labourers, the layout of the wall is irregular, an exception to the usual square format of these times; it zigzags around Nánjīng’s hills and rivers, accommodating the landscape. Averaging 12m high and 7m wide at the top, the fortification was built of bricks supplied from five Chinese provinces. Each brick had stamped on it the place it came from, the overseer’s name and rank, the brick-maker’s name and sometimes the date. This was to ensure that the bricks were well made; if they broke, they had to be replaced. Many of these stamps remain intact.

Some of the original 13 heavily fortified Ming city gates remain, including the Zhōngyāng Gate in the north, Zhōngshān Gate in the east, and Zhōnghuá Gate in the south. You can climb onto the masonry for exploration at several points, for long walks and fantastic views of town.

One of the best places to access the wall is from the rear of Jīmíng Temple. Walk to Jiǔhúashān Park off Taiping Beilu, looking out over huge Xuánwǔ Lake Park (玄武湖公园) and passing crumbling hillside pagodas along the way.

 Another access point is at Jiěfàng Gate. You can stroll, cycle, or hop a rickshaw along the wall, pausing for photo ops at gates along the way at places like Zhonghua Gate, the largest castle-style gate in the world.

There are museums you can visit to learn more about the city wall; Zhonghuamen has a large brick exhibition, and great views. You can also rent bicycles here and ride along the wall.

Zhonghuamen, 339 Yingtian Da Jie, Qinhuai Districtt秦淮区应天大街339号; admission: RMB 34 (US$5.5); open daily 8:30 a.m.-9:00 p.m. Taicheng, 8 Jeifang Men, Xuanwu District玄武区解放门8号; admission: RMB 15(US$2.4); open daily 8:00 a.m.-6:00 p.m. (April-September), 8:30 a.m.-5:00 p.m. (the rest of the year) Shitoucheng, near Qingliang Mountain, Gulou District鼓楼区清凉山旁; free entrance; open 24 hours.

 

Purple Mountain 紫金山

Get to Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum

For independent travelers, you can take bus Y1 and 9 from downtown area to Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum. Moreover, buses are available between Xiaoling Mausoleum of Ming Dynasty and Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum, Linggu Temple and Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum.

Sightseeing Train

To save your energy and time, travelers can take the sightseeing train between Muxuyuan Metro Station and Zhongshanling South Station. You can stop at Sifang Cheng, Meiling Palace and Underwater World. It charges 10 Yuan / person for each way.

 

Some say that Nanjing is all about Tombs. Plan an entire day just exploring the mountain and surrounding areas. The park has a shuttle "train" you can ride and is included in the price of certain tickets. There is also a cable car going up the hill for ￥35 one-way and ￥60 round-trip, or you can walk. The area is home to the tombs of three very important emperors:

More than 200 heritage sites and scenic routes can be found on or around Purple Mountain. The most famous of these are Dr Sun Yat-sen’s Mausoleum on the southern slope, Toutuo Ridge on the peak, Linggu Temple to the east and the Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum to the west, the last of which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Purple Mountain’s main peak is the atmospheric TouTuo Ridge, which hides a veritable trove of historic landmarks dating back to the Six Dynasties. You can explore the White Cloud Pavilion, Liu Ji Cave, Black Dragon Pool, Stone Carvings and more, all set against the stunning backdrop of modern Nanjing spreading below your feet.

 

Dr. Sun Yat-sen's Mausoleum - the father of the Republic of China

As the mausoleum of Dr. Sun Yat-sen, the father of the Republic of China, it is considered the Holy land of Chinese people both home and abroad. With deep historical significance, magnificent architecture and beautiful scenery, it is a must see when visiting Nanjing.

Dr. Sun Yat-sen (1866-1925) was a great forerunner of the Chinese democratic revolution and led by Dr. Sun the Chinese people brought down the corrupt rule of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) and ended 2,000 years of the feudal monarchy system, which led the people into a new age. (Beijing Review's version  - really he was a bit of a cockhead)

Nanjing is the birthplace of the Republic of China and the resting place of its founder, Sun Yat-sen. The influential Chinese revolutionist, who died of lung cancer in 1925, was buried on Zijin Mountain in east Nanjing.

The Kuomintang spent an alleged 1.5 million Yuan (about US$10-20 million today) and nearly four years building the magnificent mausoleum which occupies 80,000 square meters and is surrounded by lush forest.

The memorial archway, mausoleum gate, tombstone pavilion and memorial hall line up on a north-south axis along a 73-meter-high slope.

However, visitors are not permitted to enter or see Sun's coffin chamber in person.

Sun Yat-sen’s Mausoleum, Zhongshan Scenic Area, Qixia District 栖霞区钟山风景区 Free entrance; open Tuesday-Sunday 8:30 a.m.-7:00 p.m.

LUNCH

Nanjing Da Pai Dang南京大排档, 玄武区中山陵陵园路2号 (near sun yat sen mausoleum), 4 other branches in the city, a must-try popular among locals too. The chain serves a large variety of excellent local xiao chi (literally 'small eats' which are more substantial than you may think, think tapas style sharing) at very reasonable prices with interior decor resembling olden day hawker booths and excellent service from the costume-clad man assigning you your table to the waitress recommending you dishes 

This hectic, fun and vast place, decorated like a Qing dynasty eatery, with waiters scurrying around in period garb and lanterns hanging overhead, is deservedly packed out. There's a handy photo menu for ordering fried dumplings with pork, leek and mushroom (¥12 for three), sliced fish soup with preserved vegetables (¥48), Nánjīng fried noodles (¥16) and oodles of other tasty local dishes.

With eight branches in town, it's a big name in Nánjīng, but if you arrive during a busy period (such as weekends), you'll have to grab a ticket and wait in line outside. It's on the 7th floor of Deji Plaza just north of the Xinjiekou intersection at the heart of town: take exit 7 from the Xinjiekou metro station and take the lift or escalators upstairs.

11am-10.30pm      mains from ¥16

 

Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum (明孝陵). Tomb of Zhu Yuanzhang, also known as Emperor Hongwu, the first emperor of the Ming Dynasty. Look out for the stone camels and elephants of the sacred way. 

 

The tomb of Sun Quan (孙权墓) - From the Three Kingdoms period 

A Purple Mountain pass might be worth buying if you plan on visiting 2 or 3 of the parks on the mountain. The Purple Mountain pass can be bought for ￥100 at the entrance to Sun Yat-sen's Memorial (and possibly at any of the other parks on the mountain) and provides you with entry to nine parks.

Dominating the eastern fringes of Nánjīng is Zǐjīn Mountain (紫金山; Zǐjīn Shān), or ‘Purple-Gold Mountain’, a heavily forested and hilly area of parks, and the site of the lion's share of Nánjīng’s historical attractions – Sun Yatsen Mausoleum, Míng Xiàolíng Tomb, Línggǔ Temple Scenic Area, Plum Blossom Hill and the Botanic Gardens (植物园; Zhíwù Yuán). It’s one of the coolest places to flee the steamy summer heat, but it can get crowded. Give yourself a day to explore it properly; discounts exist if tickets to various sights are purchased together. The area is accessible by bus, metro and taxi, and small tourist buses shuttle between some of the main sights.

Getting to the mountain

Several metro stops circle around the mountain. These include Muxuyuan Station on Line 2 or Gangzicun Station on Line 4, which are closest to the Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum; Xiamafang Station on Line 2, which is closest to Dr Sun Yat-sen’s Mausoleum; Zhonglingjie Station on Line 2, which is closest to Linggu Temple; and Jiangwangmiao Station on Line 4, which is closest to Toutuo Ridge. Several sightseeing shuttles depart from those stations, which will carry you around Purple Mountain’s key historic landmarks.

Buses are also a good alternative. Routes 20, 315 and G5 will carry you near the Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum; route 34 will carry you near Dr Sun Yat-sen’s Mausoleum; route 202 will carry you near Linggusi Park; and routes 20 and 315 will carry you to the Mountain Cableway Station in Dibaocheng, where you can catch a breath-taking cable car ride up the mountain.

 

Meiling Palace

Located at the foot of Purple Mountain, about 6km from the city center of Nanjing, Meilling Palace is a splendid villa built by the chairman of the National Government, Chiang Kai-Shek, for his wife, Soong May-ling, hence also called May-ling Villa. This villa is the largest villa in Nanjing with a total area of over 2,000 square meters. Its formal name is National Government Chairman Residence.

How to get to Meiling Palace

1. Take Metro line 2 and get off at Xiamafang Station, then leave from exit 2 and walk northwest for 15 minutes to get there.

2. Take bus 34 to Bo'aiyuan.

Entrance Fee           CNY30;

The combo ticket of the Purple Mountain is CNY100 and contains the visit to Meiling Palace and all the other attractions on the mountain;

Opening Hours         07:30-18:00

Tips:

The sightseeing bus and tourist special line are running between the attractions like Meiling Palace, Dr. Sun Yat-sen’s Mausoleum, Linggu Temple and Xiaoling Mausoleum of Ming Dynasty, and visitors can catch one to get to the palace. The sightseeing bus charges CNY10, and the special line charges CNY2.

 

Xuanwu Lake Park

 

The Dragon Walking Path (Ming Wall Walking Trail) that surrounds the Xuanwu Lake, is an ideal place for cyclists, walkers, and runners. The path’s left side is full of green spots and benches. The place also provides a great scenic view of the Purple Mountain and Xuanwu Lake. Opening Hours: 07:00 – 18:00 Address: 1 Kunlun Road, South of Xuanwu Lake Main Gate

The 4.72-square kilometer Xuanwu Lake Park was the largest Imperial lake garden in China’s history. It is good for a leisure walk. With lots of scenic spot and historical sites, Xuanwu Lake is reputed as “A Bridge Pearl of Nanjing”.

There are five isles in the lake: Huan Isle, Ying Isle, Ling Isle, Liang Isle and Cui Isle. All the isles are linked to each other by bridges and causeways. It also features teahouses, pavilions, boats, ferries, restaurants, and zoo.

Anyone can visit the islands in the lake by renting a paddle or an electric boat. These boats are available near the park’s south gate. The Sun Palace Water Park and many other interesting activity spots are easily accessible from this place. Opening Hours: Sun - Sat 07:00 - 21:00 Address: 1 Xuanwu Lane, Zhongyang Road, Nanjing

How to get there: Trains available from Xuanwu Men, Tourist bus goes from Huancheng Road Tour boats are available from Nanjing Train Station.

 

Cruise

How to get to the Panchi Wharf

1. Take Metro Line 3 to Fuzimiao (Confucius Temple) Station and leave from Exit 2, and then walk southwest for 10 minutes to get there.

Cruise ships are available at the Panchi Wharf in front of Dacheng Hall of the Confucius Temple. Luxury cruise ship is for tour group; ordinary cruise ship is for individual travelers which costs CNY60 per person at daytime, CNY80 per person at night. The while journey is about 50 minutes. The route is Panchi Wharf - Bai Lu Zhou Cultural Theme Park - Dong Shui Guan - Qi Cai Shui Jie - Zhong Hua Men - Li Xiangjun's Former Residence. The cruise operates from 9:00 to 22:00. The former residence is removed in the night route, but go back to Panchi at last.

The services on the boat are always impeccable. Tea and local snacks are prepared and visitors can enjoy Chinese traditional music performed by boat girls and boys with Gu Qin - Chinese seven-stringed zither - and Lu Sheng (a reed-pipe wind instrument) during their trip.

It is recommended to have the boat cruise in the evening. An evening cruise on the Qinhuai River is a wonderful experience. Nanjing skyscraper’s neon city lights are on and all the red lanterns along the river light up at night, exotic and attractive. Many kinds of boats are available for rent. Paddle boats are a cheaper option. However, "Qibanzi", a type of boat with a roomy cabin and cane chairs on the deck, is a little bit expensive, but less tiring and more comfortable.

 

Tangshan Regalia - Hot Spring & Spa (汤山御庭温泉), Tangshan Quan Yun Road, Tangshan is a historical natural hot springs area in Nanjing and known as one of the popular places to enjoy great vistas of the mountain and it is surrounded by tranquil forests and lake. Regalia Resort & Spa offers private hot springs room coupled with spa treatments to follow. With easy access from Huning Highway that provides accessible public or private transportation, Tangshan is the perfect place to enjoy the relaxing pleasures offered by the natural hot springs.

Afternoon Smoko

Skyways Bakery. Lots of relatively expensive baked goods. The apple pies, tarts and cheesecake are all excellent. They also have cinnamon rolls, croissants, muffins, and a selection of ice cream. The place also offers customizable, fresh made sandwiches. Cosy bakery located in the student area around Nánjīng University. As well as delectable baked goods like cakes and breads, they make their own nut butters. Their morning deal of a pastry with a cup of coffee or tea is good value at ¥18.

On-street seating is also available.

 

Kuiguangge Teahouse

This is a century-old Muslim teahouse located in the front part of the famous Fuzimiao dinning street. It was said to be the place for imperial examinees to celebrate their success and now is a landmark building in the street. It provides the 'Eight Excellence' snacks and smiling waitresses will come to introduce both the delicious delicacies and interesting stories and legends behind the food.

As a teahouse, Kuiguangge is also the best place to taste tea. Tea plays an important role in Chinese social and emotional life. Tea is always offered to a guest immediately upon entering a Chinese home. Therefore, teahouses became popular socializing places for people at various times. The highlight is to choose among a collection of green, red, scented tea varieties and learn more about the marvelous traditional Chinese tea sets. This teahouse is renowned as the best in the city.

Sun

 Nanjing Yangtze River Bridge

We went to the this bridge at sunset, and it was truly impressive! We first crossed the bridge by taking a bus, then got off and wandered on the western side of the river. The view on Nanjing was really cool, and we could see the bridge very well. I definitely recommend it, especially at sunset.

How the Nanjing Yangtze River Bridge changed China forever

China may be home to both the longest and highest bridges in the world, but neither is as pioneering as the Nanjing Yangtze River Bridge. Built during China's tumultuous Cultural Revolution, the double-decked bridge was considered groundbreaking when it was unveiled in 1968.

But more importantly to some, it was also the first modern bridge to be designed and built by China without help from foreign architects.

"The bridge was so important, and it's undoubtedly a symbol of the city," he said. "It is being repaired for transportation and safety purposes, but I would relish the chance to transform the bridge's tower and the affiliated park into places of memory."

Made in China

China had initially hoped to build Nanjing's bridge with its communist allies, the USSR. Having already helped construct a crossing at Wuhan (about 280 miles up the river), the Soviets once again offered technical assistance. But soon after construction began in 1960, relations between the two nations soured.

Soviet experts withdrew from the project ahead of the Sino-Soviet split -- the breakdown of relations between the world's largest communist powers from 1960. The bridge was nonetheless completed eight years later. China considered the accomplishment to be a major feat of engineering -- and a propaganda victory.

At over 5,000 feet long, the bridge carries both cars and trains. Its upper deck is a four-lane highway with sidewalks, while the railway tracks are now part of the Beijing-Shanghai train route.

"Everybody loves the bridge," said Wang Shiqing, a longtime Nanjing resident who has collected over 1,000 pieces of Nanjing Yangtze River Bridge memorabilia. "It's a source of pride, especially for local Nanjing people," he says.

New beginnings

As with other notable bridges -- like San Francisco's Golden Gate -- the Nanjing Yangtze River Bridge has become a popular suicide spot. However, for Nanjing's residents, it is best known for transforming life in the city.

Before the bridge was built, people and goods could only cross the river by ferry. Trains passing through the city would have to be disassembled and loaded onto boats in order to continue their journey.

Upon its completion, the bridge changed the lives of the city's residents."In terms of the function, it made people's lives so much easier," said Wang, who was born the same year the bridge was opened. "It reduced the river crossing time and served as the main artery for north-south transportation."

A 'pop icon of modernity'

As well as sculptures of peasants, workers and soldiers, the Nanjing Yangtze River Bridge also features Mao Zedong quotes and a 230-foot statue of the former leader.

"The red flags and magnolia decorations are very Chinese," Wang said, referring to the three flag-shaped sculptures found at the top of the bridge's towers. This particular design reflects the "Three Red Banners" -- a major propaganda campaign during the Cultural Revolution. The "banners" represented ideologies that called for the construction of a socialist state in China.

The bridge often appeared in propaganda posters, which were keen to imply that the structure represented a "great victory of Mao Zedong Thought" (the political theory known outside China as "Maoism"). One such poster featured a quote from Mao: "Chinese people have drive and strength -- we have to reach and overtake levels of advancement across the world."

Erected during a turbulent time in China's history, the bridge had far-reaching cultural impact, according to Lu.

"This bridge is one of the most recognized achievements of the Cultural Revolution era," he said. "It is both a political monument and a symbol of technological and historical success. Its image appeared on cups, pencils, shoes, mirrors, cigarettes and bicycles nationwide -- the bridge became a pop icon of modernity."

The legacy of the bridge also lives on through the people who were named after it. According to Wang, many people in Nanjing named their firstborns Chang Jiang (Chinese for "Yangtze") and their second Da Qiao (which means "big bridge").

Restoring former glories

But the structure will be getting a facelift too. A $160.7 million (RMB 1.09 billion) investment will be used to restore some of the iconic statues, including those found on nearby river banks. Sculptures on the bridge will be reinforced, with handrails and piers also undergoing renovations.

The bridge decorations scream Maoism; passers-by can see statues of a worker, a farmer and a soldier, all holding the little red book promoting Chairman Mao’s philosophy. Red flags fly atop the two bridgeheads. Visitors can pay to climb up to see a sweeping view of China’s longest river, the Yangtze.

 

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