BACK ROADS OF INDOCHINA

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Muang Sing - Laos’ Wild West

Homestay in Ban Sai Leck "Yao"

Homestay in Ban Saileck "Yao"     Experience the Yao culture and tradition, taste local meals, learn how to make paper from bamboo and participate in the day-to-day work of the family.

Yao Homestay is an experiential tour which will take you on a night & half day learning experience into the tradition, culture & daily life of the Yao people in Muang Sing. You will have personal interactions with the villagers & have the opportunity to experience firsthand from the Yao themselves the Yao culture & way of life.

In the area of Muang Sing in Laos, there offer the homestay services in the “Yao” village, which enables you to interact with the friendly villagers, learn Yao’s culture, beautiful costume, and ways of living, and create lots of enjoyable experiences. Staying overnight at the lodges, you become a member of the village and mingle with the local life rhythm.

After dinner, you will enjoy Yao’s cultural shows. Also, get a massage that is traditionally offered to the guests staying overnight there.

June – August: learn how to make the fields ready for the wet rice and to plant seedlings.

Homestay in Laos with the Akha and Yao villagers brings the different and real adventure that you come to know the hill-tribe culture, tradition, and lifestyle in Laos.

 

Ban Nam Deat Mai Homestay “Akha Village”

Akha Homestay is an experiential tour which will take you on a night learning experience into the tradition, culture and daily life of the Akha in Muang Sing. You will have personal interactions with the villagers and have the opportunity to experience firsthand from the Akha themselves the Akha culture and way of life.

 

2 Nights Homestay: In Different Ethnic Minorities “Yao & Akha”

Yao & Akha Homestays are an experiential tour which will take you learning experience into the tradition, culture and daily life of the Yao & Akha in Muang Sing. You will have personal interactions with the villagers and have the opportunity to experience firsthand from the Yao & Akha themselves the Yao & Akha cultural and way of life.

 

ITINERARY

Day 1: Muang Sing-Ban Nam Deat Mai “Akha”

Start about 3:30 pm the day you paid for by Tuk Tuk or bicycle to the village of Ban Nam Deat Mai (distance about 4 Km). We stay overnight at the lodge provided by the village. While waiting for the dinner, you might walk around the village, meet the people and learn about the traditional Akha architecture. When you dinner you will receive Akha show such as: sing a song, dance and other show their tradition and culture. After dinner you will receive a massage which is traditionally given to the guests staying overnight in the village.

Day 2: Ban Nam Deat Mai “Akha”-Tourism Activities-Muang Sing

After breakfast, you might join activities of the family. January-May: work in the vegetable garden, sow corn etc. June-August: go to the paddy-fields to plant rice, etc. September-October: work in the vegetable garden. November-December: go to the paddy-field for harvesting rice etc.

The tour will finish next day after the lunch with the family in the field.

Orientate

 It's a compact and fairly pleasant little town, albeit one divided in two distinct parts: the "old" or original town near the airport (bombed out in the 1970's war), and the "new" or replacement town to the north where the trekking companies and most guesthouses can be found. The two are about 6 km apart. The "old" town sits aside Highway 3 - the modernised route from China to Thailand. The "new" town is located along highway 17A which serves to connect Muang Sing.

Tips

• The town is centred on the main street Highway 3A and the night market.

• November–February is high season. June - Aug is wet season.

• Guesthouses/hotels have fast internet.

• Laos is very hilly and the roads are not well kept, so if you’re cycling you’ll want to hire a mountain bike with gears.

• The Tourism Information office is located behind the night market, open Monday to Friday 08:00-11:30,13:30-16:00.

• Throughout Laos, the price of your excursion or activity is dependent on the number of people that sign up for it.

• Should get maps from rental places or Tourist Office

• There are two banks and one post office offering change for cash and travellers' cheques, all in the main street.

•  Banque pour le commerce exterieur Laos [BCEL] now has an ATM: but, all-too-often patrons complain of non-delivery of the cash. All BCEL ATM's have a high (20,000Kip) ATM service charge and low transaction limit (1.000,000Kip).

• There are three sisters of the Akha people travelling from Muang Sing every day to sell their crafts and agricultural products (Opium and ganja) to falang. They are difficult to get rid of, and may follow you around town. Enjoy a bi-lingual conversation with them, it's great fun. If you refuse their wares they might offer you a special treat.

Stay

For such a small town, the guesthouses are relatively cheap and plentiful. Most are within walking distance of each other.

 

Zuela Guesthouse** in town looks nice $36 dbl with Brekky or

Also some on the river 6km south of town The Boat Landing Guesthouse is the best known of these.

Maybe stay in each area with a trip to Muang Sing in between.

 

Brekky

For breakfast there are a couple of cheap and cheerful pho/noodle joints around town.

 

Zuela

In addition to healthy breakfast bowls of muesli-with-the-works and real espresso, backpackers love Zuela for their cheap Asian dishes: fried rice or noodles for 15,000 kip and meat-veg curry with rice for 28,000 kip.

Hours  6.30am-10.30pm      mains 10,000-35,000K

 

Morning Market

There are myriad noodle stands at the morning market, where you'll also be rewarded with a photogenic vista of fresh vegetables and fruit, buffalo skin, jungle meat, pig faces, live fish and even fried silkworms.

Hours 7am-5pm      noodles 10,000K

Smoko

Coffee House

Open eatery with a comprehensive Thai Menu, lattes and cappuccinos, great fruit shakes, plus friendly atmosphere.

See

Luang Namtha District: Where the Adventure Begins

Stroll down Luang Namtha’s main street and step into a postcard of a laidback tourist hub. You’ll enter a cluster of clean and comfortable guesthouses, small restaurants, and tour operators in tidy shops with tour-menu slates out front. The activities list keeps growing, with trekking, homestays, cycling, kayaking, and combination tours dominating the charts.

 

The Luang Namtha Town Loop

Hop on a bicycle or motorbike, or hire a tuk-tuk for a full-day exploring Luang Namtha Town’s environs on a 30-km circuit. Start at the Luang Namtha Museum’s display of Buddha images, hand-crafted weapons, bronze drums, and farm tools.

Then head northeast to Ban Nam Dee, the final stop on the Tea Caravan Trail, with a short hike to waterfalls and a village visit. Journey south of town to Vieng Neua Village, home of ethnic Tai Yuan, for a baci ceremony, cultural performance, meal, and cooking class.

 

That Phoum Pouk Stupa.

From the airport, a 15-minute drive reaches the hilltop That Phoum Pouk Stupa. Built in 1628 to demarcate the Lane Xang and Lanna Kingdoms, the stupa was tumbled by American bombers in 1966, but rebuilt in 2003. Nearby Ban Nam Ngaen presents Tai Dam villagers producing potent lao khao rice alcohol. Walk to their Tai Daeng neighbours and observe women weaving intricately patterned cloth on a two-level loom.

 

A Walk in the Woods

Select a trek in the Nam Ha National Protected Area, and embark on an adventure in pristine wilderness. You can pick a path that climbs to peaks overlooking green mountains, or a trail requiring bamboo rafts to cross rivers. At night, stay in an ethnic village home or lodge, camp under a jungle canopy, or sleep in a forest retreat.

The Luang Namtha Eco-guide Unit and local tour operators offer one- and multi-day treks for everyone.   Nature buffs find trails passing 300-year-old trees. Guides can teach you how they fish, and you’ll cook the catch with forest products. Visit and spend the night with remote mountaintop Akha villagers, riverside Lanten, hillside Hmong, remote Khmu and Tai Lue, and lowland Yao.

 

Paddling Down the Nam Tha

Ease into a kayak and paddle down the Nam Tha River. You’ll stop at ethnic villages and tackle rapids, as the river winds through steep, tree-lined shores, while skirting the Nam Ha NPA. Kayaking tours begin with basic lessons, before entering the river south of Luang Namtha Town. Several tours first stop at Ban Sop Tod, to experience Lanten lifestyle and purchase their crafts.

The kayaking continues over Tiger Leaping Rapids to Ban Sop Sim, a Khmu village where the Nam Ha River empties into the Nam Tha. Some one-day tours end here, while 2-day programs continue downriver to a forest camp or homestay at Hat Yawng or Houei Luat. The second day ends at Ban Sin Oudom and a ride back to town.

 

Pedalling in Luang Namtha

Hop on a cycling tour in town and ride off on a multi-day adventure. Pedal south on Route 3 to Vieng Phoukha Town, and stop at ethnic villages on the way. Explore the endless Kao Rao Cave and Nam Ha NPA, before spending the night with a Khmu family in Vieng Phoukha. Continue along the Nam Tha River to Nalae Town, visiting several Khmu villages before overnighting at Ban Ome with a Tai Lue family.   

For those heading to Muang Sing, you can cycle to roadside ethnic villages, visit a waterfall, head off road into the protected area, and overnight in an Akha lodge. The next morning, you can see the town’s sites including the morning market, museum, and Xieng Teung Stupa.

 

Navigate Nam Tha River Culture

Hop in a wooden long-tail riverboat and take a 5-hour cruise down the Nam Tha River, stopping at ethnic villages along the way. The river meanders through the valley, hugging the Nam Ha NPA with its 300 bird species.

Tour operators offer programs beginning 15 km north of town, where two rivers feed the Nam Tha. You’ll stop at Ban Mai, a Tai Dam village known for silk production. Next up is Ban Sop Tud with Lanten people living a traditional river lifestyle, and producing bamboo paper. You’ll hit rapids around the final stop, Ban Sop Sim, a Khmu village that produces woven rattan and bamboo baskets, tools, and lao hai (rice wine).

 

Cast Off on a Combo Tour

Embark on a 3-day odyssey that combines trekking, kayaking, and cycling, and overnights at ethnic village homestays, community lodges, river retreats, and jungle camps.

Trekking often stars in combination tours, with operators splicing in traditional mountain trails like the original Ban Nalan Trek. Others run along rivers surrounded by forest, and stop at ethnic villages. Cycling segments take in the Luang Namtha Valley, with some including a homestay. Kayaking components are often slotted in after cycling, and can overnight at a forest retreat or jungle camp.

 

Trekking is the primary reason that most travel to Luang Nam Tha.

Trekking in Luang Namtha is one of the 'must do in Laos'. Trek through jungle, dense forest, rice paddies, river banks and farmlands and visit Lanten and Khmu people in remote villages that can only be accessed by foot or by boat.

On the surface, the programmes are hard to differentiate so it’s important to do your research and also have realistic expectations. Some programmes are a “jungle experience” – hiking and sleeping in the jungle with no local interaction – while others emphasise village homestays and ethnic tribes. If you have visions of getting way off-the-beaten-jungle-track, a one-night trek will not suffice; it’ll take time and money and in general, you get what you pay for. Going too cheap will have results to match.

Questions to guide you:

*) Is the homestay in or near the NPA? Is it surrounded by jungle or close to a main road?

*) How much of the money goes to the local community?

*) Will I meet any minority tribes?

*) What is the trail difficulty? How many hours of hiking a day?

*) Is there a river and an opportunity for swimming?

*) Do I stay with a family or in a separate building for visitors?

*) Are bedding, mosquito nets provided? Do I have to bring and carry our own?

 

Nam Ha NPA

The 2224-sq-km Nam Ha NPA is one of Laos' most accessible natural preserves and home to clouded leopard and possibly a few unpoached tigers. Both around and within the mountainous park, woodlands have to compete with pressure from villages of various ethnicities, including Lao Huay, Akha and Khamu. Since 1999, an ecotouristic vision has tried to ensure tour operators and villagers work together to provide a genuine experience for trekkers while ensuring minimum impact on local communities and the environment.

Tours are limited to small groups, each agent has its own routes and, in principle, each village receives visitors no more than three times a week. Authorities don't dictate what villagers can and can't do, but by providing information on sustainable forestry and fishing practices it's hoped that forest protection will become a self-chosen priority for the communities.

 

Enjoy a herbal sauna

Luang Namtha, like much of Laos, is known for its soothing herbal saunas. These are usually heated by a central stove and divided into two sections for men and women. Once inside you can enjoy the steam created by the stove and medicinal herbs are also burnt to cleanse the body. You can also usually choose to have a full body massage at the end of the steam bath.

There are several herbal saunas in Luang Namtha, the most popular being the one next to the The Classic bar, down the lane from the Lao Airlines office. It's a very simple rickety shack, but easy to spot (look for the stove) and equipped with separate male/female saunas, a changing room and lockers. The tourist price is 15,000 kip, with optional massages for 30,000. Lao traditional sauna is on the way to Tai Dam guesthouse. There is a new sauna on the same road as Lai's place, called Ladyhands Massage.

 

Ban Nam Di - Village in Luang Namtha

Although barely 3km out of Luang Namtha, this hamlet is populated by Lao Huay (Lenten) people whose womenfolk still wear traditional indigo tunics with purple sash-belts and silver-hoop necklaces. They specialise in turning bamboo pulp into rustic paper, using cotton screens that you'll spot along the scenic river banks.

At the eastern edge of the village, a three-minute stroll leads from a small carpark to a 6m-high waterfall (2000K). You'll find it's more of a picnic site than a scenic wonder but a visit helps put a little money into village coffers. Unless the water level is really high there's no need to struggle up and over the hillside steps so ignore that sign and walk along the pretty stream.

 

Self Guided Bicycle Tours - Pick up a map & go

 

Time: 1 – 4 hours

Difficulty: Easy

Attractions by following the route clockwise:

1. Hat Yao Village is an ethnic Hmong village where you can see traditional Hmong embroidery and baskets being made by women around the village.

2. Nam Dee Village is an ethnic Lanten village where you can see cotton cloth dyed with indigo and production of natural bamboo paper, in addition to visiting the community forest and Nam Dee Waterfall.

3. Thong Jai Tai is an ethnic Tai Dam village where you can see weaving that is done using special, large looms and traditional alcohol production done by families.

4. Nam Thoung Village is an ethnic Tai Lue village known for vegetable production. You can check out what’s on sale at their local market and take a look at the village spirit post located nearby.

5. Sacred Forests and the Tai Dam Cemetery can be seen along the dirt road between Ban Poung to Ban Pasak. The colourful decorations of the women’s and men’s graves can be seen from the road.

6. Luang Khone Temple is located at Luang Village, an ethnic Kalom (Tai Yuan) village, and is the oldest Buddhist temple in the district.

7. Phieng Ngam Village is an ethnic Tai Daeng & Tai Khao village, which has a weaving center where you can learn about the weaving process, take a weaving or dying class or relax at the café.

8. Nam Ngaen Village is the largest ethnic Tai Dam village in the area and here you can visit the last professional traditional alcohol distillers and look around for silk and cotton weaving.

9. Nammat Mai Village is an ethnic Akha village, where you can see the spirits gate at the entrance (please do not touch!) and the traditional swing (used only during festivals) on the hill in the center of the village.

10. Poum Pouk Stupa was originally constructed in 1628 to demarcate neutral territory between the Kingdoms of Lane Xang in Luang Prabang and Lan Na in Chiang Mai.

11. Vieng Neua Village is an ethnic Tai Yuan (Kalom) village, which is considered the oldest ethnic group in the Valley and practices a mix of Buddhism and animism. Here you can see the village spirit post, the district spirit post and the new Vieng Neua Buddhist Temple.

12. Vieng Neua Kao Temple is the old temple of Vieng Neua Village, before the village moved across the main road to make room for the extension of the airport. The old temple is still used by the village and is a peaceful place to visit.

13. Luang Namtha Stupa is perched on the mountain overlooking Luang Namtha Town, just a short walk from the main street. Sunset and sunrise is a good time to visit.

Description: The Namtha Valley is one of the most ethnically diverse and culturally rich areas in Laos and the region. Follow the signs of the Namtha Valley Route to eight main ethnic villages and five cultural and religious sites, where you will discover aspects of daily life and culture and take in the scenic beauty of the Valley.

You can also take a tuk-tuk or bicycle or motorbike and just go independently to some of the villages which are next to the roads and not in the jungle. A mountain-bike rental from a good shop will provide you with a not-to-scale map over villages and a nice waterfall. The surroundings are really pretty to cycle about in and there are some very interesting scenic attractions.

 

With a motorbike, you can travel around to see the beautiful countryside and visit the villages in and around Luang Namtha (eg. closer to Muang Nalae, Vieng Phouka or Muang Sing). The road to Muang Sing takes about 2 hours and makes for a stunning journey through the national park, with many interesting ethnic villages to visit once you get to Muang Sing. A journey to Vieng Phouka (50km) is worth is for the limestone karst scenery and a visit to the impressive Kao Rao caves of the main road.

 

Then there a number of waterfalls to be seen. Close to Namtha town is the Nam Dee waterfall, lovely in the wet season. In the dry season there's almost no water coming over the falls, but there are nicely maintained trails and it's a fun bike ride out there, through a Lanten village where you might see women sewing, dying indigo fabric, or making paper in the river. Take a mountain bike; as soon as you leave the paved road, the dirt road's like the surface of the moon. Near Muang Sing is the Gneung Phou Ku Lom waterfall.

 

Last but not least, if you liked what you saw, leave a compliment at the People's Complaint Box in front of city hall!

Eat

For such a small town, Luang nam Tha has a surprising number of good places to eat specialising in local and Western food.

 

Luang Nam Tha night market

At the very centre is the food court-style Luang Nam Tha night market, open every evening. Check out the very local stuff at the back (here you can buy your requisite sticky rice) and the tasty stands at the front: roast duck, barbecue pork belly and chicken for sale by weight, fresh spring rolls, insanely spicy papaya salad and cold Beerlao. In rainy season the night market is still open but much quieter, with fewer stalls and food options.

Hours 7-11.30pm

 

Lai's Place - Lao

No other restaurant in northern Laos offers such a tourist-friendly introduction to the diverse cuisines of the region's ethnic minorities than this simple eatery with sturdy wooden tables and walls lined in groceries. There's a long list of jąaou dipping sauces for sticky rice alongside traditional Akha and Tai Dam dishes like aw lahm, a stew of banana flower, rattan shoot, eggplant and pumpkin.

 

Minority Restaurant  - Lao

Across from Bamboo Lounge and down a narrow alley, Minority Restaurant specialises in, you guessed it, minority food. Here you can sample dishes from the ethnic tribes in Luang Nam Tha and you’ll find the food to be fresh and full of local vegetables. If you must, they also have Western items. We tried one of their versions of bamboo soup -- it was so authentic we found worms in the bamboo. Service was friendly and helpful and we wouldn’t hold the worms against them.

This inviting, wood-beamed restaurant hidden down a little side alley offers the chance to sample typically ethnic dishes from the Khamu, Tai Dam and Akha tribes, as well as láhp, stir-fries, chicken curry and fried fish.

 

Boat Landing Restaurant - Lao

The relaxing riverside setting complements some of the most authentic northern Lao cuisine on offer. From five-dish menus for two or three people to one-plate meals, the flavour combinations are divine. If you're baffled by the choice try snacking on a selection of jąaou used as dipping sauces for balls of sticky rice. Located 6km south of the new town.

 

Sun

The Classic Newly opened open-air bar and restaurant with a good view of the mountains and a decent cocktail menu. A nice place to watch the sun set behind the mountains. Decent music (that you can request) and good friendly service. Located just off the main street. Turn right onto the last street as you leave "New" Luang Namtha, going south, before the turn for Amandra Villa. On the same street as the morning market. Look for a lit-up tree outside about 100m off the main street. Closes at midnight. Signature cocktail is Passionview Mojito, delicious.

 

Luang Namtha Stupa - Time: 30 mins. – 1 hour

Luang Namtha Stupa is perched on the mountain overlooking Luang Namtha Town, just a short walk from the main street. Sunset and sunrise is a good time to visit.

 

Drink

Luang Namtha buzzes by night with its steaming Night Market, while The Classic and Bamboo Lounge, in particular, are reliable for a lively atmosphere.

 

Bamboo Lounge

With its moss-green facade this place is the favourite in town for travellers, offering employment to young people from remote villages and donating more than 2800 books to local schools. It's alluring by night with its winking fairy lights, thumping tunes and outdoor terrace piping delicious aromas from its wood-fired oven – there are myriad thin-crust pizza choices. And unusually for Laos, it's completely nonsmoking.

Next to Dokchampa Hotel is the brilliant Bamboo Lounge, formerly known as Forest Retreat Cafe. This is the number one place in town for a relaxed vibe, cheap beer, fresh juice, free WiFi and Western food done well. The New Zealand owners source all of their produce locally when possible, but things like real cheese and bacon are imported from Thailand and cheesy-bacon-pizza cooked in their wood fire oven hits the spot when you’re sick of noodle soup. They’ve invested a lot of time into food, service and English-language training, and it’s paid off. Try the perfectly cooked pasta (40,000 kip), salads (20,000 kip) and pizzas after they’ve fired up the oven at 17:00 (starting at 55,000 kip). The menu also has a number of vegan and gluten-free options. Enjoy the food and get the best obligation-free tourist advice in town.

7am-11.30pm, happy hour 5-7pm     mains/pizzas 40,000/75,000K

 

Manychan is dOt near Zuela

 

Manychan Guesthouse & Restaurant - Laotian

An inviting all-wood interior spilling out onto a fairy-lit street terrace keeps this place among the most popular falang venues in town. Wi-fi is free and the menu covers the gamut of possibilities. Beers arrive in coolers and the coffee has a kick.

 

Fan Mai and Nat Phop are two similar-style bars on the river bank where locals like to hangout. Fan Mai has a disco that goes until midnight.

 

'Houangjing Nightclub in the grounds of the Royal Hotel is a local nightclub with an enthusiastic DJ and a wide selection of Beer Laos. Attracts local young people and is good fun if you are looking for something lively. Patrons are friendly and will definitely share their beer with you and chat.

Day ? - Muang Sing - Gem of Laos

 

Muang Sing is the biggest city in Luang Namtha Province and used to be the epicenter of all things opium. It is near the border to both Myanmar and China and now a popular pass through for those traveling around the region.

The small town and district of Muang Sing sits nestled in a wide-open valley ringed by a fortress of green hills and mountains, just 58 kilometres northwest of Luang Nam Tha. It has all the makings of a star destination: gorgeous scenery, relaxed atmosphere and an astonishing number of ethnic minority villages living side by side.

For such a peaceful place, it is hard to imagine that Muang Sing has a rather tumultuous and lively history. From the 18th to 19th centuries it was part of the principality of Xieng Khaeng and its geographic position meant it was victim to constant raids and demands for tributes by neighbouring kingdoms. Caravans passed through here, part of the “Ancient Tea Horse Road” trade route that saw goods flow between China, Burma and Siam. In 1895 Muang Sing was invaded by British troops coming in from Burma, then it fell under French control and prospered as part of the Golden Triangle opium trade. The French used it as an opium weigh station and market. The final insult was in 1946, when the Chinese Kuomintang attacked the town and destroyed the market and city walls.

The threat today is the growing demand and influence from its big neighbour China. Considering Muang Sing’s proximity to the Chinese border, it’s pretty amazing how well the ethnic tribes have maintained their customs and traditional way of life. But in the last five years, more Chinese businesses have appeared in town. The lands once used for rice paddies have been leased by Chinese companies and the district is engulfed with cash crops that require intensive agriculture: bananas, cassava, rubber and watermelons. Only time will tell what impact it has on the land and the culture.

The Tea Horse Road

The ancient tea horse road was composed of a system of caravan paths that made their way through the mountains located in present-day China and Tibet. The regions that the route passed through included Sichuan and Yunnan, which are thought by historians to be the first regions in the world to grow tea. The route was an essential link that connected the tea growing regions with areas that consumed tea but lacked the necessary climate for it to thrive properly. Apart from tea, salt was one of the most vital items traded along the route. The trade relied heavily on horses, mules. and human porters to transport the trade commodities. Traders typically exchanged horses from Tibet for Chinese tea which earned the route its distinctive name. The horses were essential to the Chinese mainly as they were battling nomadic communities at the time.

About

Tucked in the northwestern corner of Laos at the border of Myanmar and China, Muang Sing is one of the most diverse, strange, and fascinating places in Laos. This region has a Wild West feeling where the 95 villages and 12 ethnicities live side by side but seem to operate in their own world with different languages, dress and traditions.

Within 10 kilometres of the town centre live nine distinct groups: Akha, Tai Lue, Tai Neua, Lolo, Hmong, Tai Dam, Khmu, Phou Noi and Yao. Men and women in traditional dress are a common and brilliant sight and this high concentration of minority groups is almost unparalleled in not only Laos, but all of Southeast Asia.

Six years ago a German development NGO primed Muang Sing for tourism success. The tourist office was well set up, tourist maps and brochures printed, good community-based trekking itineraries and village homestays created. But the NGO left and the boom never came. Over the years the tourist numbers have steadily declined and now it has all but dried up. People are just not coming and we’re baffled as to why. It’s only a two-hour stunning scenic drive from Luang Nam Tha, a route that follows along the Nam Tha River valley through the Nam Ha National Protected Area. If you’re looking for challenging trekking and real cultural experiences in Laos, this is the place.

Transport

From Luang Namtha small buses depart several times a day at a small bus station near the Lao Airline Office.

The bus station is located beside the Morning Market at the north end of town, a 10-minute walk from Phou Iu Guesthouse. Buses or songthaews from Muang Sing travel to Muang Long, Luang Nam Tha and China. To get to Xieng Kok, change buses in Muang Long. You can also buy bus tickets at the Tourism Office (they add a 10,000 kip commission) but there is really no reason to. Buy your ticket at the bus station at least 30 minutes before the departure time, wait and hope for the best.

Buses from here are usually modern minibuses, but it won’t depart until full – or overfull. Our personal Muang Sing bus record was 16 people, three babies and luggage in an eight-passenger van.

The nearby border to China is open to Lao and Chinese only. The nearest border crossing to China for foreigners is Boten (via Luang Nam Tha).

Luang Nam Tha (60 km) departs 08:00, 09:30, 11:00, 12:00, 14:00, 15:30, takes 2 hours, 25,000 kip

 

Get Around

To get around Muang Sing tuk-tuks are readily available at the morning market. Bicycles can be rented in town. There is no local public transport in town.

The town itself is relatively attractive, a tidy grid of dirt roads that you can easily wander by foot. Some Tai Lue-style wooden buildings remain and the whole place feels reminiscent of a bygone era. The surrounding area is unwaveringly flat, making it an ideal place to explore by bicycle. It’s as easy as hiring one in town, buying a map at the Tourism Information Office and striking out to see the villages and peaceful pastoral scenery. Of the small number of people who do make the journey to Muang Sing, most come between November to February. But rainy season reveals Muang Sing’s true beauty: Rice paddies cover the entire valley and it’s one of the most beautiful landscapes we have ever seen.

Muang Sing’s bus station is located beside the market in the north end of town, a 10-minute walk from where most places to stay are located. The town is laid out in a neat grid pattern making it very easy to navigate. There are ATMs and banks but no moneychangers.

 

Some 18 kilometres due east is the Chinese border, only open to Lao and Chinese for crossings. The road southwest leads to Muang Long and the Mekong River/Burmese border at Xieng Kok, 70 kilometres away.

Motorbikes (80,000 kip per day) and basic bicycles (20,000 to 25,000 kip per day) can be rented at Tigerman Treks on the main road across from the Tourism Information Office. They can also arrange for tuk tuks or minvan and driver. Contact Mr. TongMua at T: (020) 5546 7833 or tigermantrek@gmail.com

Phou Iu Guesthouse has a fleet of good mountain bikes they use for their own tours but you can rent them for 50,000 kip/day. They are open seven days a week and can also arrange for private minivan or pickup truck with driver, ideal for journeys further afield such as a daytrip to Muang Long. Cost depends on the vehicle, distance and petrol but it will be up to 700,000 kip per day. Contact Mr Sisomphone at T: (020) 5598 5557 or phouiu_ms@hotmail.com

 

Tips

• The rainy season lasts from May to October.

•  Muang Sing has a total population of 23,500 inhabitants, spreading over 95 villages.

Stay

The number of visitors to Muang Sing has declined, and so too has the number of good places to stay. There are only a few places worth recommending but if for some bizarre reason they are all full, there are several not so great places – Muang Sing is small, you’ll find them. Most accommodation in Muang Sing is located on or just off the main road, which runs from China all the way to Burma.

 

Brekky & Lunch

You can try khao soi noodle soup at the morning market. There’s also a good noodle soup shop that serves Lao-style pho and fresh chewy khao piak rice noodles for a lunchtime fix. Follow the main street in the direction of the Chinese border, cross the small bridge over the Nam Sing river and it will be a few hundred metres on your left across from a tiny pharmacy. Look for the building shaded by hanging adverts and tables inside loaded with the usual noodle soup condiments and sauces.

See

The Morning Market

People of all local ethnicities flock to the morning market to snap up the freshest produce, the plumpest bird, the juiciest lizard, and many are resplendent in their colourful traditional dress. The produce covers the familiar and the unexpected, varying with the seasons: stuffed grilled frogs on a stick, dried buffalo skin, intestines, snails, insects, brightly coloured sweet coconut jellies and fried donuts. Wildlife is often available and sadly, some of them are endangered species: wild cats, mammals and rare birds.

There is also a dry-goods market full of cheap Chinese products as well as a cornucopia of practical everyday things. The morning market runs all day, but hits its height at dawn when people converge from all the neighbouring towns to do their shopping and selling.

 

That Xieng Tueng (Xieng Tung Stupa)

The most important stupa in Muang Sing. It is said to contain the Adam's apple of Buddha. The date of when it was built is unknown. To the left of the stupa are some stairs which lead to a sacred fountain and a sacred stone. If you follow a path to the right of the stupa downhill you might be able to find the old moat and wall of the stupa. The biggest festival of the year, That Xieng Tung Festival, is held here every year during the full moon of the 12th lunar month (usually in late October or early November) and attracts a wide gathering from villages and people around the district and Luang Namtha province. The stupa is located 5.5 km from the center of town, on the road towards Luang Namtha, situated on top of a hill. There is a big dirt road leading up to it on your right as you're coming from Muang Sing.

 

Out & About

There’s plenty to do as well as see around here. You can take yourself on a local walk or self-guided bike trip, though an organised guided trip or trek will certainly be more rewarding. There are also 25 temples in the valley. “Muang Sing, A Cultural Guide Book”, a booklet for sale at the Tourism Office, points out that this density of wats cannot be found anywhere else in Laos outside of Luang Prabang.

Villages close to Muang Sing Town

These villages are easily accessible by bike or tuk tuk. However, you will have a better experience to go with a local guide, many of them speak the local languages and know the villagers, enhancing your experience. They also can cater to your interests, whether it be food,  handicraft, or photography. Guides can be booked at the Muang Sing Tourist Office or through local Muang Sing tour companies.

Ban Nammai & Ban Phoudontan – Yao Handicraft

Ban Koum – Lao Whiskey Distilling

Ban Siliheung – Khao Soy (Rice Noodles)

Ban Nongbuea & Ban Xieng Yun – Tai Dam Handicraft

Ban Nammdaet Mai – Akha Handicraft

 

It’s worth stopping at the Muang Sing Tourism Office on the main street. The staff speak English, information about the ethnic groups is displayed along with a large map of the region, and itineraries for different treks and tours which you can book through them are provided. You can buy a good colour map for only 3,000 kip – it’s dated but still helpful for do-it-yourself exploration. On one side is the town, and the other side maps all the outlying villages and their ethnic groups. The office is open Monday to Friday, 08:00-12:00, 13:30-16:30.

A guided trek or a homestay is the best way to gain insight into the culture and traditions. As tourist numbers have fallen, so too have the number of agencies and operators offering treks in Muang Sing. It’s a pity because if you are looking for a trek in Laos with rich nature, remote hill tribes and the option for challenging hiking, Muang Sing is the real deal.

An organised trek can reward you with insight and access to harder to reach villages, tribes and waterfalls. For example, Xieng Khaeng and the Upper Mekong bordering Burma and China remains largely unexplored by foreign travellers and is truly a frontier land. And remember, some of the money you spend goes to the local community and helps keep the tourism infrastructure afloat.

The best time to go trekking in Muang Sing is in the cool-dry season from November until February. Daytime temperatures are pleasant, the air is clear and the nights are cold.

It’s a good idea to research which tribes you are interested in to help you choose your trek. The staff speak English but some are more enthusiastic about helping than others. Prices work on a sliding scale depending on the number of days and people. Sample cost: a three-day trek, 800,000 kip per person based on two people.

One of the few remaining agencies offering treks is Phou Iu II. They offer homestays, treks and biking tours. All the information is professionally displayed on laminated cards and Mr Sisomphone speaks English, giving you a feeling of confidence that you will get the trip that you explain you want. A three-day, two-night “Akha Experience” trek, which includes the Nam Keo waterfall, is $250/person based on two people. Yes, it’s expensive, but everything in Laos is, relative to many other places in Southeast Asia – and in general you should expect to pay at least $100 per day per person for trekking anywhere in the country. And be warned that because tourist numbers are so low to Muang Sing, you won’t usually find others to add to your group and reduce the price.

 

Tigerman Treks, located across from the Tourism Office, offers one-day tuk tuk tours, jungle treks, homestays or biking/trekking combinations. The owner Mr Tong Mua speaks English.

 

Phou Iu II: T: (020) 5598 5557. http://www.muangsingtravel.com

Tigerman Treks: T: (020) 5546 7833; (030) 526 4881. tigermantrek@gmail.com

Tourism Office: T: (086) 213 021;(020) 578 6824. http://www.luangnamtha-tourism-laos.org

 

Before you go, remember that appropriate behaviour and dress are of the upmost importance when visiting any village in Laos. Men shouldn’t be shirtless. Women: no singlets or shorts – skirts and trousers should be at least knee length. Be delicate when taking photos and don’t take photos if someone is obviously uncomfortable with the camera. Do not give candy or gifts to children. On the rare occasion the path to a village may be blocked by bamboo, ropes or special symbols. This indicates a ceremony is taking place and no outsider should enter the village.

Given the number of different ethnic groups, there’s a good chance your visit will coincide with an interesting local festival, ceremony or temple celebration. The Tourism Office will post notices about any local festivals so call it a lucky coincidence if you happen to stumble across Tai Neua New Year or a pig sacrifice at an Akha wedding.

The landscape is mountainous with an elevation ranging from 540 to 2094 metres. From December to February be warned that the night time temperatures can be freezing. Though daytime temperatures are pleasant throughout the year, the sun is intense and we’ve learned the hard way that a combination of sunscreen and covering up is the best protection.

 

Ethnic Groups Villages Take a guided tour by one of the local operators or hop on a bicycle for a full-day exploring Muang Sings’ town environs. On a tour you will visit 8-10 villages and learn about the rural life of different ethnic groups.

 

 

The China border is only 17 km from town and makes for a refreshing journey on a bicycle. You can't cross the border, however the scenery along the way is beautiful and worth the ride. If you’re out exploring the villages near the Chinese border, try stopping by Adima Guesthouse. Their restaurant pavilion is a tranquil spot overlooking paddy and the stir-fry dishes are cheap, ranging from 10,000 to 30,000 kip.

 

The Muang Sing Market The heart of the town and attracts people from the entire region to buy fresh foods and products for daily use imported from China. Best time to visit the market is between 7 and 8 o'clock in the morning: retailers from all the ethnic groups arrive to sell vegetables, fruits and meat, and Tai Lue women present their famous noodles. It's also a great place to look for local handicrafts purchased by Tai Dam, Tai Lue and other ethnic groups. Try the local food such as soybean paste, waffles and local sweets (‘Kainom’) often made from sticky rice and coconut.

Eat

Dining is a challenge in Muang Sing as many of the restaurants have closed.

 

Phou Iu II

Phou Iu II is the best and practically the only eating option – luckily it’s good. It’s a large menu of stir-fried meat and veg dishes with rice or noodles. The portions are big, ingredients fresh, prices reasonable and the food tasty. They serve breakfast, lunch and dinner. Even if you aren’t staying at this guesthouse, we recommend coming here for a meal or two.

 

Veranda Restaurant - Asian

About the best Lao, Thai and Chinese food you can expect in town, this is a simple, cosy spot to eat hearty Lao fare – think soups and noodle dishes – in a friendly atmosphere. It's based in the garden of the Phou Iu II Guesthouse.

 

Thai Lü Restaurant

Looking like a backdrop from an old Bruce Lee flick, this creaky wooden building has a certain charm and serves Laotian, Thai and Western dishes. The owner is friendly and produce is locally sourced and seasonal.

The owners are still welcoming and serve traditional Tai Lue cuisine, which is quite different from Lao food. The menu has English translations and explanations about Tai Lue dishes like crispy buffalo skin and young bamboo shoots stir fried with egg, lemongrass and soy sauce. They also do a cheap Western breakfast. A must try is the stir-fried “Muang Sing khao soi noodles,” a flat and wide fresh rice noodle that’s stir-fried with a fermented soybean paste and roasted chilli. With vegetables it’s only 15,000 kip. The owners here speak some English and it’s worthwhile to stop in during the day and order dinner in advance so the cook can go to the market and see what’s fresh.

Drink

Singsavanh Nightclub

Most of Muang Sing is dead asleep by 9pm except at the Singsavanh, where the locals get down to live Lao and Chinese pop. It might look permanently closed down by day, but somehow it picks itself up at night.

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